Bondo / Rust Hole Fixing - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-12-2010, 03:55 PM
Thread Starter
  #1
NASCAR JEEP!!!!

WF Supporting Member
 
kj 92yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The 'Nati. Go REDS
Posts: 470
Bondo / Rust Hole Fixing

good afternoon all!

ok, so i have some rust on the yj. i have already grinded it out and filled it with bondo and painted, but it looks TERRIBLE and so i'm going redo it all, but like they say, practice makes perfect right?
Ok, so here are the questions:
1. Can anyone supply any bondo tips? related to sanding it down after it has hardened? this is the part i really SUCK at.
2. once ready to paint is it better to buy flat paint then apply clear coat afterwards, OR just by the glossy paint? should i use primer first? when i had my CJ i just painted everything over in flat black and didn't really care. but i don't want to do that again.
3. I assume i will never be able to match the paint that is currently on it as the clear coat is coming off and it's 18 years old to boot, so is there any one brand or idea better than the other.

ok, i think that sums it all up. any advise would be greatly appreciated.

__________________

Yo Ho Yo Ho a Pirates Life For Me......
1992 Islander - I6 - 3" Body Lift; 2.5" RC Suspension Lift; Mystery Shackle Lift; 35x12.50x15 on 15x8's.
kj 92yj is offline   Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 04:23 PM   #2
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
schnutzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ring side seats to the the country's largest circus
Posts: 28,214
Send a message via AIM to schnutzy
how exactly does it look terrible? did you not sand the bondo down enough? can you visibly see where it goes from metal to bondo? whats up with it that makes it look terrible? that will help us help you.
also, how are you painting your cj? with rattle cans, or a spray gun?

just some simple stuff: use as little bondo as possible. bondo is not your friend, it is not some cure all dent fixer. its just there to cover the dent up. your best bet is to get the metal work as close as possible to how it was original, and then use the bondo sparingly.

i was always taught that for every golf ball sized blob of bondo, you should use about a pea sized blob of hardener. that has worked well for me. mix it well, so it is a uniform color, not streaky with hardener.

when applying the bondo, it is better to apply to much, rather then not enough. cover a few inches more then the area you are working on if that helps you get it all covered. you can sand it down to the appropriate level once it has dried(and trust me, that is a lot better then having to re-apply is over and over again)

when sanding bondo, i like to start out with a 40 grit, this is just to knock it down to a more manageable level, however, some people cant do this. you may need to start with a 80 grit paper. it will take longer then if you start with a 40, but if you dont stop soon enough with the 40, you will have to re apply bondo. and that takes much longer then doing it with the 80(once again, trust me on this, i learned it the hard way. knowing when to stop only comes with practice, and damn i got a lot of practice my first year learning)

after the 80 i go with a 220 grit. you can have another level between the 80 and 220, but i rarely had anything i like on hand, so i just went straight to the 220. this is where you get to the detail stuff. you need to make that patch as smooth as possible, knock down any high spots, feather the edges, and take care of any chips.

once you are done with the sanding, it is time to prime.
after a good coat of primer, its time to wet sand.
i normally used 800 grit while wet sanding.
i like to use a "guide" for wet sanding, by lightly spraying the area with black spray paint. just like a misting, this lets you know when to stop, how even it is, and if you have any high or low spots.

you may have to prime multiple times to get it all nice and purdy

__________________
clinging on to sanity, one motorcycle at a time.
schnutzy is offline   Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 08:30 AM
Thread Starter
  #3
NASCAR JEEP!!!!

WF Supporting Member
 
kj 92yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The 'Nati. Go REDS
Posts: 470
wow, thats a great response. thank you very much! yes, it is apparant that i am doing it ALL wrong........
not being a welder or having any welding equipment, the best i can do is to seal whatever rust hole with the bondo stuff. for a larger hole, i did jb weld in a peice if sheet metal to the inside and will bondo the outside.
anyway, to answer your question about how horrible it is......well, all i did was take a power sander to it to knock it down as you said, and then changed the paper to a finer grit to finish it off. however, i could tell that i wasn't anywhere near "in line" with the rest of the metal, BUT the bondo started to pit out and so, i stopped........terrible....
when i had my cj it was so ratted out that i really didn't care, and once hit with the flat black, it really wasn't all that bad. but with the yj, i really want to take the time and do it right.

yes paint from the rattle can. don't have a gun. is it easier to paint with a gun?

i have never wet sanded anything before, but like your idea of how to do it. i assume any old black spray paint will work?

also, i didn't read the words power sander once......so i will assume the best way to do all of this is by hand sanding????
__________________

Yo Ho Yo Ho a Pirates Life For Me......
1992 Islander - I6 - 3" Body Lift; 2.5" RC Suspension Lift; Mystery Shackle Lift; 35x12.50x15 on 15x8's.
kj 92yj is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-13-2010, 09:22 AM   #4
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
schnutzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ring side seats to the the country's largest circus
Posts: 28,214
Send a message via AIM to schnutzy
best way to patch a hole is by welding it closed. so if you have a friend, or there is a shop around you that can do, i would try and get that done. just having the bondo cover the whole isnt the best idea, it will be pretty easy to punch a whole through the bondo.

if the bondo starts to pit, you can always just mix up a little and spread it over the affected area. however if it is pitting a lot, then something isnt quite right. it might be due to using the bondo to cover a hole, with nothing behind it, the bondo can kinda flex, and that would cause it to crack and flake. at least i think that would happen. ive never applied bondo over a hole like that, so m not entirely sure how it would react.

i prefer to pain with a gun, but thats just me. it is easier in the sense that you dont have to shake it up or anything. but rattle cans are nice cause its all ready to go, just shake and spray. you dont have to mix and fill up the gun.
if you dont have one already, look for a trigger for spray guns. its just a little pistol grip that will hook onto the can, all the hardware stores i have been in carry them, and they make it much easier on the hands.

yes, any black spray paint will do. just go with the cheapest stuff you see. hell, just go with the cheapest of any color you see. as long as its not the same color as your primer. i used back cause we had a lot of it.

you can power sand, you just have to pay attention that you dont sand to much. now since i would go in and do all the metal work i could to reduce the amount of bondo i used, i never really had an area that i needed to use a power sander on. only time ive used one was on the door of a truck. and that one time took me a lot longer then it should have cause i kept taking just a little to much off.
i just prefer hand sanding when it comes to bondo work and wet sanding(and that is something you will have to do by hand).
now for roughing up the surface of the whole jeep and getting it ready for paint, go ahead and use a power sander. it will make that job much easier.
__________________
clinging on to sanity, one motorcycle at a time.
schnutzy is offline   Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 09:25 AM   #5
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
schnutzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ring side seats to the the country's largest circus
Posts: 28,214
Send a message via AIM to schnutzy
you might also find this helpful:
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f105/ho...int-40110.html
__________________
clinging on to sanity, one motorcycle at a time.
schnutzy is offline   Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 10:12 AM
Thread Starter
  #6
NASCAR JEEP!!!!

WF Supporting Member
 
kj 92yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The 'Nati. Go REDS
Posts: 470
thanks for all the help schnutzy. i really appreciate it. last question i'll ask......is the little metal mesh type screen you can by worth it? i would assume i would apply this to the outside of the hole and then bondo over it? or should i try to apply to the inside somehow? this is all in assumption that i cant locate a welder to help.
__________________

Yo Ho Yo Ho a Pirates Life For Me......
1992 Islander - I6 - 3" Body Lift; 2.5" RC Suspension Lift; Mystery Shackle Lift; 35x12.50x15 on 15x8's.
kj 92yj is offline   Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 10:43 AM   #7
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
schnutzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ring side seats to the the country's largest circus
Posts: 28,214
Send a message via AIM to schnutzy
i have never used a metal mesh. only time i used anything like a mesh was for fiberglass work on composite bumpers.

for patching holes, i used sheets of metal, cut and formed to fit the whole and shape of the body.

and feel free to ask away, im always glad to help when i can. as are lost of other people on this forum.
__________________
clinging on to sanity, one motorcycle at a time.
schnutzy is offline   Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 11:46 AM
Thread Starter
  #8
NASCAR JEEP!!!!

WF Supporting Member
 
kj 92yj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The 'Nati. Go REDS
Posts: 470
cool. thanks again. i will try to take some decent before and after photos of all this and post them up. we can all laugh heartily at attepmt #1 and then hopefully feel differently about attempt #2.
__________________

Yo Ho Yo Ho a Pirates Life For Me......
1992 Islander - I6 - 3" Body Lift; 2.5" RC Suspension Lift; Mystery Shackle Lift; 35x12.50x15 on 15x8's.
kj 92yj is offline   Quote
Old 08-13-2010, 11:47 AM   #9
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
schnutzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ring side seats to the the country's largest circus
Posts: 28,214
Send a message via AIM to schnutzy
just take your time. this is not something to rush through, specially if you havent done it very often.

__________________
clinging on to sanity, one motorcycle at a time.
schnutzy is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Frame rust Moojamboo YJ Tech Forum 19 11-08-2018 06:49 PM
To Bondo, Or Not To Bondo Darth Vader TJ General Discussion Forum 5 08-03-2010 10:59 AM
Must for Rust - Rust Remover copleydad YJ Tech Forum 0 10-29-2009 03:48 PM
PLEASE HELP - Undercarriage Rust/ New buyer question titus319 TJ Tech Forum 3 04-21-2008 04:45 PM
Opinions needed for rust under door. Rhino Line? Re-paint? jonbugh TJ General Discussion Forum 6 03-25-2008 09:12 PM





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.