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Old 08-03-2012, 05:16 PM
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Ok so im gonna replace u joint and I figured out how to do that. I think my pinion yoke that goes into rear diff is bad tho. I cant upload pics becaus my laptop is down but it looks like on one side there is like a little tab that comes up maybe to hold in the cap of u joint. One side the tab is there but on other side of yoke just opposite that tab is not there. Looks like that might be why it failed...? Anyone know the part number yoke I need, I've looked on quadratic and jc Whitney and it seems like there are a couple rear diff yokes that say they fit a 93 yj....

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Old 08-03-2012, 05:43 PM
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Link to pic not sure if it will work, but if so the bottom you can see the tab thing I'm talking about and on top theres not

Facebook

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Old 08-03-2012, 08:14 PM   #33
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Im pretty sure I know what you are talking aboutm that tab is suposed to hold the cap in the yolk.

As far as options, yes, you would need a yolk, however its not something you can just loosen a bolt, replace and bolt back up. That bolt also determines the preload on the pinion bearing, and if its not set correctly, your rear end will grenade.

I remember a long time ago NAPA sold a temp fix kit that was caps with that tab on them, this was about 15 years ago, so they might not be available any more.

Oh, and I sent you a Facebook friend request so I can see the pic.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:03 PM   #34
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Yea, nothing you can do for that, there is a good bit of metal missing form that yolk, better replace it.

It might be time for a trip to a shop again, unless you feel confident you can get that bearing preload just right......
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:50 PM
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Okay, so what all is required for setting
Preload. Ive heard many say they just set it
To 160 lbs and haven't had issues, I know that's not the correct way to do it but idk...
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:58 AM   #36
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Here is how I cheat and do it:

Get a feel for how it feels turning the yolk, and get a feel for how much play there is.

Count the threads showing between the edge of the nut and the top of the pinion.
With a flat chisel, make one mark on the pinion, and one corresponding mark on the nut.
Remove the nut, replace the yolk, and tighten the nut so the same number threads are showing above the nut, then go a hair past your marks you made with the chisel, If it feels like it did before replacing the yolk, your done.

While you have the yolk off, you might want to change the seal.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:11 PM
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Ok that sounds good, now you say how it feels to turn the yoke... Right now the jeep is sitting on all 4 tires and can only turn the yoke with my hand an inch or two. Should i replace just the oil seal or the crush sleeve too? It's not leaking a's I can see, should I just replace the seal anyway? I need to order the yoke but everywhere I look there are multiple pinion yokes that say they fit the 93 wrangler, here they are

Original Replacement Parts 83503318 - 3.5" Wide Rear Axle Pinion Yoke for 87-01 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & TJ, 84-95 Cherokee XJ & 93-96 Grand Cherokee ZJ with 1310 Series U Joint - Quadratec

Original Replacement Parts 4746835 - 3.9" Wide Pinion Yoke for 93-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & 96-01 Cherokee XJ with Dana 35 Rear Axle - Quadratec

Original Replacement Parts D35YOKEUBK - Heavy Duty U Bolt Yoke Conversion Kit - Quadratec
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:10 PM   #38
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Rear wheels need to be off the ground, and you will probably want to use a 1/2" impact gun.
Measure your pinion yolk, there appears to be 2 according to your links (that I did not click on).

Im really thinking you should go to a shop and have them do it, that makes the possibility of failure their responsibility.
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:29 PM
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No I don't really trust shops. And i like doing it myself, I'll measure the yolk and order a new one.
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250, 79 Yamaha dt125, 78 dt175
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:21 AM   #40
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So much RUST!

I feel for you guys up north. I personally would not spend a nickel on a rust bucket. Find a better rig to spend money on. If that part of your jeep is so rusty that its falling apart...surely all the rest is in the same condition. Does safety on the highway concern you with all that rust? Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:30 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmc201
I feel for you guys up north. I personally would not spend a nickel on a rust bucket. Find a better rig to spend money on. If that part of your jeep is so rusty that its falling apart...surely all the rest is in the same condition. Does safety on the highway concern you with all that rust? Good luck!
Unfortunately up north it is tough to find a used car without rust unless it is less than 5 years or the previous owner took nice care of it. Unfortunately for the jeep world especially wranglers the vehicles are never cleaned after winter or even after mud but here in pa we go through annual safety inspections and if there is anything but that top layer of surface rust they will fail you and require you to fix it so here in pa I have no concerns for safety on the highway. Plus if you know how to weld and have access to welding equipment then it is super cheap to fix rust but without this it can get expensive with those $80 an hour body shops
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:49 AM   #42
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Pinion yoke is easy to do. Count the turns when you take the bolt off and use a silver sharpie to mark the bolt and nut. I would not mess with anything past the seal though. If those parts are off by even a hair your bearings will fail within 3000 miles. If anything else needs work pay someone who knows what they are doing or it will cost you more in the long run.

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