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Old 04-05-2019, 03:31 PM
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Clutch Fluid Rising? Overflow at reservoir

Here's a weird one: The clutch fluid keeps rising! I've lowered the level, wiped it off, it just keeps doing this. In the picture below, it hasn't even been driven, and yet it keeps creeping up...

Clutch is working fine. What would cause this? Cant' think of what the clutch master cylinder would have in common with any other fluid, to allow crossover?

Any thoughts?

Michael

IMG_1653 by michael delage, on Flickr

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Old 04-05-2019, 03:38 PM   #2
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It’s self contained, possible air in the system might be causing it.

What’s the history behind this clutch master cylinder?
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Old 04-05-2019, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
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It’s self contained, possible air in the system might be causing it.

What’s the history behind this clutch master cylinder?
That was my thought too, maybe air is getting in at the slave, not enough to affect the operation, but enough to raise the level?

I can't think of anything else that would cause this...

As I recall the PO changed the slave cylinder. I don't remember him saying anything about the MC.
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Old 04-05-2019, 04:55 PM   #4
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Soak half an inch out of it w paper towels...

My bet is air in the system

I'm thinking there is supposed to be a rubber diaphragm under the cap that would prevent the leaking tho....
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Old 04-05-2019, 05:10 PM   #5
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X2 on the diaphragm
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Old 04-05-2019, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
I'm thinking there is supposed to be a rubber diaphragm under the cap
Ugh! You're right! Forgot about that...

Still, probably leaking at the slave too. Dammit!
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Old 04-06-2019, 08:28 AM   #7
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The diaphragm is put into place to allow expansion and contraction of the fluid. If you have topped off the fluid to the top, it is expanding through the hole, as you now know.
If you have a leak in the slave cylinder, a puddle or at least a drip will be obvious under the bell housing. If you have a leak at the master, it will leak at the top of the clutch pedal on the firewall. You may also have air entering at the bleeder valve if it is not completely closed, but again you will see a drip or puddle.

Since you say the clutch “still works”, I would guess you have no leak, just fluid expansion. Is the weather getting warmer where you live?

When putting the diaphragm in place, I wrapped the master cylinder in shop rags and filled the reservoir about 1/4-5/16 from the top. Then I very slowly lowered the diaphragm into place, squishing out some fluid but leaving no air under it. Then I place the lid, screw it down tight, remove the rags and wipe any excess.
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:12 AM
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Thank you for the suggestions. I have dropped the level, will add a rubber diaphragm, and keep an eye on it. It's too much to just be expansion, I think. Does have the external slave cylinder mod on the AX-5...

I have motorcycles that do this all the time (Brembo Goldline MC's). Gulp in air on the low pressure side. No real leaks to speak of, but air gets in. And super frustrating that Brembo won't sell rebuild kits, so a $300 MC is considered "disposable".

I don't see the point in starting a new thread, so i'll ask here. Is this lifted, how much and what type?

This is the youngest son's (age 16) vehicle, but I seem to remember the PO saying it had a 2" lift.

Any guesses welcome! If better photos would help, let me know.

IMG_1626 by michael delage, on Flickr

Tires are 30x9.50R15:
IMG_1656 by michael delage, on Flickr

Currently 28.5" tall:
IMG_1654 by michael delage, on Flickr

Maybe 8.75" clearance:
IMG_1655 by michael delage, on Flickr
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:24 AM   #9
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You have one of the few years that YJ’s came with an external slave, it is replaced as one entire unit (all plastic)

As far as your height question, it might be easier to answer if we had a variety of photos of your shackles and springs.
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:35 AM   #10
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I'd say 2" sounds about right.
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Old 04-06-2019, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRQ View Post
You have the one of the few years that’s YJ’s came with an external slave, it is replaced as one entire unit (all plastic)

As far as your height question, it might be easier to answer if we had a variety of photos of your shackles and springs.
Thank you guys for the help! I thought the PO told us he had changed to the external slave, but I might have misunderstood. In any case it's good to know, thank you.

Here's some better photos of the shackles/springs.

A picture of the rear shackle:
IMG_1657 by michael delage, on Flickr

Front shackle:
IMG_1658 by michael delage, on Flickr

Rear spring pack:
IMG_1659 by michael delage, on Flickr
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Old 04-06-2019, 12:45 PM   #12
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Looks like stock shackles and body mounts, so 1.5-2” spring lift

Your frame is crying for a wire wheel and a couple coats of POR 15
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Old 04-06-2019, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
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Looks like stock shackles and body mounts, so 1.5-2” spring lift

Your frame is crying for a wire wheel and a couple coats of POR 15
Thank you for the insight! Much appreciated.

Yes, the frame and body is in great shape but has the beginnings of NY rot. Was a North Carolina vehicle until 2015, then lived in Poughkeepsie until a few weeks ago.

I'm a big fan of POR-15, just gotta convince the boy to do the work! Unfortunately, even with the POR-15, that frame will rot from the inside soon enough...

Does anyone have a recommendation on the rubber diaphragm for the Clutch Reservoir? None of the auto parts stores here carry it. I see the Crown Automotive replacement caps which include the diaphragm, not sure if they're any good. Or should I go OEM?
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:21 PM   #14
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If its just the rubber you need the cap won't matter so much, The trick is to get the right size the first time, Internal and external slaves are different sizes.
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Old 04-06-2019, 07:28 PM   #15
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I bought a MC from Autozone and the cap was not interchangeable with the OEM.
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Old 04-07-2019, 11:33 AM
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I bought a MC from Autozone and the cap was not interchangeable with the OEM.
Ugh. All the caps I find online say "Diaphragm not included".

Anyone have any great ideas before I start wandering around in the junkyard for something compatible? Junkyard has several Cherokees from the early 2000's, but no YJ's...
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Old 04-07-2019, 11:54 AM   #17
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My Jeep did not have the diaphragm when I bought it. AutoZone had a Doorman product that looked about the right size and it has worked properly. I don't remember the Dorman number but it was a stocked item.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:52 AM
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To wrap up, OEM diaphragm is part of the cap, which is reportedly discontinued by my dealer. None of the auto parts stores around here had anything that would fit, with a bellows to allow for draw-down. (they did have flat rubber inserts that could have been trimmed to fit)

Junkyard had a cap from a mid-2000's Saturn and a mid-2000's Chevrolet Cavalier brake MC's that the diaphragm was a snug fit. (Cap itself was useless, they are 1/4 turn style unlike our screw on cap). It was so snug that I did need to use a dental pick to get the rim seated properly inside the cap.

IMG_1664 by michael delage, on Flickr

Lost half the clutch pedal before we got it sorted out, so I got to learn how to bleed these clutches! While that's the goofiest system I've ever seen, from a mechanic standpoint I totally get it. Installed as a pre-assembled unit, no need for a 2nd mechanic to pump the pedal to bleed. Someone quick could probably change the entire MC/Slave in 5 min's.

Thank you everyone for the help.

Walked out this am to find a puddle under drivers rear brake drum. The struggle continues...
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Old 04-09-2019, 01:24 PM   #19
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JEEP = Just Exchange Every Part.
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Old 04-11-2019, 09:11 PM   #20
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JEEP = Just Exchange Every Part.
And Just Empty Every Pocket, while you're at it.
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