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Old 06-06-2011, 11:36 AM
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Clutch issues after sitting several years

Hi Fellow Jeepsters, We stopped using my wifes 92, 4.0 litre Jeep Wrangler for several years cause of the gas prices. (we both commute in 50 mpg VW diesels). She really wanted to start using it again and after going through it (new brakes all around, pulling gas tank and cleaning, new fluids and filters all around, removed and cleaned throttle body and tune up) all ran good, with exception of clutch. Symptoms: weak clutch pedal which is never at top and after some road time height diminishes, eventually unable to shift without grinding. After sitting pedal regains height but never fully. No visable leaking fluid at master. Vehicle has 150,000 + miles and no clutch ever replaced. Any suggestions? Thanks

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Old 06-06-2011, 01:30 PM   #2
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If you can't find any leaks,a good place to start would be fresh fluid. Get as much of the old fluid and crud as you can out of the reservoir (a cheap turkey baster works well). Fill it with fresh dot 3 and bleed it till you get the old stuff out of the system. Make sure you keep the fluid topped off while bleeding or you'll get air in the line.
Over time the fluid absorbs moisture and can gum up the fluid make up valve in the master cylinder and the fluid will leak back into the reservoir instead of going to the slave. If that doesn't work, you may need a new master cylinder, unless the slave is leaking and it hasn't started dripping from the bell housing yet. A friend of mine starting having the same problem on his s10, I had him change out the fluid in his reservoir and just doing that fixed his.

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Old 06-07-2011, 05:54 AM
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I appreciate the imput but the fluid is clean and good. I am leaning towards replacing the master or slave or both after I correctly daignose. I haven't had time over the last couple of days but will dig into it deeper. Any suggestions? I think if I go as far as to replace the internal slave I might as well do the entire clutch job as the 02 has 150,000 + miles.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:23 AM   #4
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I'd start an the master cylinder and work my way down. If the clutch works fine now I wouldn't replace it till it started giving me issues. When I do my slave cylinder I do it alone so I leave the skid plate on, unbolt the trans from the block and the skidplate and the drive shafts. Then I use a jack on the transfercase and lift the trans by hand and slide it back but let it sit in the skidplate. This way its still level with the engine. Swap slave cylinders and put back together. Don't forget to block or jack the engine and wheels first.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:46 PM   #5
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x2 Master cylinder first, fairly cheap and easy. The master won't leak outside the cab, it will usually leak inside. It will show up behind the dust boot that is around the rod from the clutch pedal to the plunger first, until it eats away the dust boot or fills up the boot and starts leaking out on or behind the carpet.

If it is eating away the dust boot it will look like black oil leaking on the firewall, carpet and any wires that are under it. Otherwise, it look clear and feel greasy.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:51 PM   #6
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Mine did that too and all I did was bleed it well and it was just fine
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:52 AM
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Thanks Guys, I will Hodini under the dash and take a look at the master boot to see if any fluid is visable or behind boot. If not I will try to bleed the master to see if it gets us anywhere. Any help with the bleeding procedure will help. If this dosen't work I guess its on to the bell housing and check out the slave. Once inside what do I look for to tell if the slave is good or bad?
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:43 AM   #8
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If you put in more fluid and then bleed the master, cannot get pressure and see no leaks then your master should be replaced. Do this before you go after the slave. Out takes a lot to bleed the system so don't give up on the master too quickly. Bleed just like brakes, it just takes longer.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:50 AM
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Thanks for the info guys, Again , when I first drive,the clutch pedal is slightlly free at the top of stroke(a coulple inches) but I can shift without problems. After I use it driving for a good while then it is obvious that there is almost no pedal(sticks to floor) and have problems finding gears without grinding. Can I get any directions on how to bleed the master?
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:27 PM   #10
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Put fluid in.

Have someone push and hold clutch peddle.

While they are holding peddle crack the blender. Then tighten.

Repeat till new fluid comes out.

Don't let reservoir go empty. You'll have to start over.
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:28 PM   #11
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Don't let up clutch peddle till you tighten blender. Air will suck in.
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:27 PM
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Thanks Hemi YJ. Where's the blender located and what is it's function? Is it typical of other bleeder screws or something else? I plan to go home today and look around to see my next move. Don't know how much I'll get done cause it's 100 F here today. Maybe this weekend. Need to get it going for some fishing on the Outer Banks!!!!
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:40 PM   #13
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Sorry I ment bleeder. Predictive text. It's on the driverside of the transmission. Can't miss it. It's just like a break bleeder.

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