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Old 04-29-2018, 02:15 AM
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Clutch not working

Hello, I'm new at this. I have an 88 4.2l yj with 178,000 miles. Had the clutch master cylinder replaced and bled the line but after driving maybe 20 miles the clutch pedal would go soft. Check the master reservoir and not fluid has been lost. Bleed the line again and same thing. Drive 20 miles then it won't shift and no fluid lost. What's going on?

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Old 04-29-2018, 02:39 AM   #2
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Not bleeding it right... has air in it

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Old 04-29-2018, 03:37 AM
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But I'm bleeding with a vacuum bleeder
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:08 PM   #4
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Sounds like the master cylinder might be on its last legs.

Let us know what the ultimate cure ends up as.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 05-03-2018, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
Sounds like the master cylinder might be on its last legs.

Let us know what the ultimate cure ends up as.

Good Luck, L.M.
so I changed the master cylinder with a brand new full metal one and bled the line but it didn’t do anything
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:24 AM   #6
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There are four components that actuate the clutch.
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch master cylinder
Fluid line
Slave cylinder (replaces the throwout bearing)

The symptoms you described indicate either a failing master cylinder or air in the line.
Since you replaced the master cylinder twice, we'll look elsewhere.....That leaves air in the line or a failing slave cylinder.
There's an outside chance that if you have an original fluid line from when the Jeep was new, that it might be failing. The rubber part of the fluid line might be swelling under repeated pressure. There should be a braided stainless line available from vendors on this forum.

We want to explore all options before pulling the transmission.

Manual bleeding seems to be the trick that works.
1- The underguy opens the bleeder valve.
2- The upperguy stomps on the clutch pedal and holds it to the floor.
3- The underguy closes the bleeder.
4- The upperguy releases the clutch pedal.

Repeat, making sure that the tiny master cylinder doesn't run dry. You might have to top off the master a couple or few times before all the air is out.
The reason upperguy stomps on the pedal is to forcefully push what air is caught in the loop by the bell housing past the loop and down towards and out the bleeder nipple.

Where are you buying your master cylinders? Post a pic of the old one.

Good Luck, L.M.
__________________
"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 05-03-2018, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
There are four components that actuate the clutch.
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch master cylinder
Fluid line
Slave cylinder (replaces the throwout bearing)

The symptoms you described indicate either a failing master cylinder or air in the line.
Since you replaced the master cylinder twice, we'll look elsewhere.....That leaves air in the line or a failing slave cylinder.
There's an outside chance that if you have an original fluid line from when the Jeep was new, that it might be failing. The rubber part of the fluid line might be swelling under repeated pressure. There should be a braided stainless line available from vendors on this forum.

We want to explore all options before pulling the transmission.

Manual bleeding seems to be the trick that works.
1- The underguy opens the bleeder valve.
2- The upperguy stomps on the clutch pedal and holds it to the floor.
3- The underguy closes the bleeder.
4- The upperguy releases the clutch pedal.

Repeat, making sure that the tiny master cylinder doesn't run dry. You might have to top off the master a couple or few times before all the air is out.
The reason upperguy stomps on the pedal is to forcefully push what air is caught in the loop by the bell housing past the loop and down towards and out the bleeder nipple.

Where are you buying your master cylinders? Post a pic of the old one.

Good Luck, L.M.
so I get the master cylinder from Napa auto parts. Has a threaded metal line. When we went to bleed the line i took off the cap from the master had my friend pump clutch 10 times and hold then open bleeder. It would come out in a stream and once the stream stopped and started dropping I would close it check the fluid level and repeat about 6 times. About halfway through the bleeding when I opened the bleeder once it practically exploded on me from what I think was an air bubble in the line.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:55 PM   #8
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so I get the master cylinder from Napa auto parts. Has a threaded metal line. When we went to bleed the line i took off the cap from the master had my friend pump clutch 10 times and hold then open bleeder. It would come out in a stream and once the stream stopped and started dropping I would close it check the fluid level and repeat about 6 times. About halfway through the bleeding when I opened the bleeder once it practically exploded on me from what I think was an air bubble in the line.



so what was the end result? are you up and running or did you end up replacing the slave?

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