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Old 08-06-2018, 09:58 AM   #31
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How about welding some spacers to the existing plate.

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Old 08-06-2018, 04:46 PM
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How about welding some spacers to the existing plate.
Possible, but perhaps overkill. The plate is simply a spacer and doesn't get removed much. I'd imagine once you bolt it to the block it will stay there a while...

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Old 08-23-2018, 12:48 AM   #33
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Have you decided on the PS pump yet?
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Old 08-23-2018, 10:17 AM
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Have you decided on the PS pump yet?
Not yet... I'm sure the ZJ pump will work just fine though. It's been raining (our monsoon season) here and I haven't had a chance to make it back to the yard where I grab Jeep/Dodge parts from, but once it stops raining and cools down a bit more, I'll go grab a few parts for comparison sake. I'm thinking the ZJ stuff fits closer to the block and that should help with fitment. I'll definitely post up what works and what doesn't shortly...
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Old 08-23-2018, 11:02 AM
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Update 8/23/18

Not too much going on with the V8 swap as I'm still in parts gathering mode. The brutal July/August heat combined with the frequent evening rain showers has slowed me down some. However after some debate, I've decided I will stick with the AX15 5-speed. I love rowing the gears and although it will make rock crawling more technically challenging, it's a challenge I enjoy!

I was hoping to find one locally but after calling yard after yard and only finding automatic Dakotas, or yards that only wanted to sell the entire transmission, I set up an auto-search on eBay. Bellhousings were going for almost what they were asking for the complete Dakota transmission, so I was a short ways away from actually picking up the entire transmission. Then out of nowhere, one popped up at night from a parts recycler back east and I snatched it up for $149.

It was disgustingly filthy and required a lot of scrubbing. A full bottle of Super Clean, a Scotch Brite pad, paint scraper and acetone made it look brand-spanking new!

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For those who keep up with my main build thread, you may have noticed that I got another project vehicle:





With the exception of the V8 swap next summer (and maybe an Atlas IV after that), the Jeep is mostly "finished". There are some small things I need to do, like install a new top this fall and freshly undercoat the wheelwells, but it will be transitioning to "enjoy mode", which is great - that's the whole reason I've been rebuilding it!

I've been a Dodge guy since the beginning and have done a '78 and a 79' in the past (a pic of the '79 mid-project was in an earlier post). I was looking around and thinking about my next project and was leaning towards a FSJ/Grand Wagoneer. However when I saw this 1990 Power Ram W150, I smiled and knew it was the perfect next project.

This one will mostly be a Resto-Mod build - basically stock looking (with the exception of a small lift and 35" tires) but will mostly focus on comfort, reliability and a good bit of streetable horsepower. It has what I was looking for in a project - clean body, ZERO rot (surface rust on roof is normal for these years but the drip rails are clean), A/C that works, and all parts are intact (finding "small parts" for a Dodge is a nightmare!).

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The current motor in the W150 is strong, well, at least as strong as a 5.2L with +200,000 miles can be. I figured if one 5.9L was good, two 5.9L's are better! I found another 5.9L block on Facebook Marketplace. This one wasn't complete (which is fine) but included the harness and ECU. Total price paid - $100 and it was running up until recently. While I rebuild the engine for the Jeep, I'll be rebuilding the Ram in preparation of having the Jeep down for a few weeks. I plan on spending the next few months working on the Ram and getting it 100% reliable and getting this spare 5.9L rebuilt and swapped in (good practice!).

In preparation for getting one of the 5.9's into the Dodge, I did some work on splitting apart the spare OBD-II harness that came with the new block.

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The spare harness came from a 1997 Dodge 2500 and it has A LOT less harness connections than the Jeep 5.2L harness I have. This has inspired me to source some new terminals and simply rewire from sensor connector directly to the ECU. In areas where I will need to install or merge harnesses, I'm leaning towards using modern Deutsch connectors.

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I've got each circuit labeled and will be now removing the transmission control wires. Next up, find a ECU from a 5-speed Ram!
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:19 PM   #36
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Have you mocked in the engine yet? I got the Advance Adopters kit, they have an alignment dowel, but I'm thinking to move the entire drivetrain as far forward as possible.
I'll be using the 46re and a 231. I do recall you said the AX and 46re were the same length, so I guess I could just go with the factory location also. Or leave about 5" behind the rad for an electric fan and weld it there. What do you think?

You're using the AX15, so will you be keeping the factory location?

Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:16 AM
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Have you mocked in the engine yet? I got the Advance Adopters kit, they have an alignment dowel, but I'm thinking to move the entire drivetrain as far forward as possible.
I'll be using the 46re and a 231. I do recall you said the AX and 46re were the same length, so I guess I could just go with the factory location also. Or leave about 5" behind the rad for an electric fan and weld it there. What do you think?

You're using the AX15, so will you be keeping the factory location?

Thanks.
I will be keeping the factory location (will also be using the AA kit)...

The AX15 and 46RE (NOT the RH!) is within 1/4" of each other (depending on where you ask) and will leave the Magnum engines in the current location. I believe this allows the use of Dodge Truck accessories and fan clutch. However, you could move the entire drivetrain forward a few inches (by cutting off the dowels or using the Novak kit) and running an electric fan.

For those running the AX/RE trans, it makes sense to leave it where it is. Those running larger and longer transmissions such as the RH or NV4500, you may want to shift everything forward some to save rear driveshaft length.
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Old 09-05-2018, 02:46 PM   #38
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( Just FYI) I measured the 46re from my Durango and it's a little over 2" longer then the AX 15..

Did you decide on the PS pump yet, the Durango and looks like the Ram one's are way out there. Seems the GC is the way to go. I'll be in search for a GC bracket also. Thanks for putting that out.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:38 AM
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( Just FYI) I measured the 46re from my Durango and it's a little over 2" longer then the AX 15..

Did you decide on the PS pump yet, the Durango and looks like the Ram one's are way out there. Seems the GC is the way to go. I'll be in search for a GC bracket also. Thanks for putting that out.
What is the length you're getting on your RE?

I have a TF727 here from a 1984 Dodge RamCharger and it measures 26-1/4".
The AX-15 should be about 24" with bellhousing.
I believe the 46RH is about 31-1/4" but haven't had a Dodge version to measure...

I'll be heading to that yard again this weekend, so if I find another bracket, I'll grab it for ya!
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:29 PM   #40
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46re is 27 1/4.
I have a local yard that has the bracket and pump. I'll get it this Friday.
Thank you for the offer!
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Old 09-17-2018, 01:38 PM   #41
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I got a 1995 Grand Cherokee 5.2 PS pump, pulley and mounting bracket. Everything lines up perfectly and it sits much close to the block than the original. Don't know what the differences are between your and my engine.

Maybe just try the '95 GC pump.

The pulley is plastic and cracking already, I'll get a new one.

I also got some over and under belt idlers, I'll see if I can use one instead of the AC bypass pulley. I've not had much luck with those in the past. They're flimsy and squeak in no time.

Thank you again for pointing this out.
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Old 09-27-2018, 09:59 AM
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I got a 1995 Grand Cherokee 5.2 PS pump, pulley and mounting bracket. Everything lines up perfectly and it sits much close to the block than the original. Don't know what the differences are between your and my engine.
From what I can tell so far, it's the differences between the truck vs Jeep engines... they all interchange but must come as a "set" to include the pulleys, brackets, and water pump length.
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:59 PM   #43
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I still have all of the accessories off my GC 5.2. A guy was supposed to buy them, but I haven't heard from him so let me know if you need anything. The motor is gone, but I have all of the brackets and pulleys.

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Old 10-28-2018, 12:57 AM   #44
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:53 AM
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I still have all of the accessories off my GC 5.2. A guy was supposed to buy them, but I haven't heard from him so let me know if you need anything. The motor is gone, but I have all of the brackets and pulleys.

Now that it has cooled down some, I'll be tearing both of my 5.9L's down for rebuild... thanks for the offer, I will hit you up for either parts or measurements
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:13 PM   #46
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doing a similar swap. 94 yj w/ 95 5.2l ax15 np231 dana 60 sterling 10.5 4 link[URL="IMG_0006(2)"]IMG_0006(2)[/URL
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:39 PM   #47
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doing a similar swap. 94 yj w/ 95 5.2l ax15 np231 dana 60 sterling 10.5 4 link[URL="IMG_0006(2)"]IMG_0006(2)[/URL
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:46 PM   #48
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doing a similar swap. 94 yj w/ 95 5.2l ax15 np231 dana 60 sterling 10.5 4 link[URL="IMG_0006(2)"]IMG_0006(2)[/URL



Why would you go through all that work for a 5.2? You may as well swap a engine in with some power if your going to go though the hassle of an engine swap.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:51 PM
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Why would you go through all that work for a 5.2? You may as well swap a engine in with some power if your going to go though the hassle of an engine swap.
The 5.2L isn't a bad option and in stock form, it doesn't give up too much to the 5.9L. With a solid cam (Utah Performance or Hughes will help) a 5.2 can be quite the thumper in a ~3300# Jeep (you'll get about 15% more torque and HP across the board with a 5.9L though). The 5.2's from Jeeps seem to be cheap and easy to find as well - a guy near me sells them routinely for $350. When converted to an OBD-II ECM and flash tuned, they can actually put out more torque and HP than stock 5.9L's...

Speaking of 5.2L's - I actually picked one up from a Dakota. I want to keep my Dodge project rolling and was quite simply tired of parking the Dodge on the side yard because it leaked all sorts of fluids all over the place...

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A guy not far away was parting out a low mileage '98 Dakota and I ended up getting the engine, complete harness, ECM, accessories, etc. for $400. That was a bit more than I paid for the 5.9's, but I got to see and hear it run and the engine had a lot of new or newer parts installed (near new alternator, 5 month old starter, a new Mopar crank sensor) so I thought it was a good deal (I still needed a bunch of accessories for the Jeep swap).

I'm going to install it in the Dodge for the time being, as it will let me get rid of my leaky TBI engine, sort out the wiring upgrades, get the fuel system plumbed, get the A/C lines figured out, hook up the cruise, etc. Also, since it's running and moving, I can regear the axles, work on the interior, etc.

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Once the Dodge is mechanically done and goes in for paint, I should have the 408 stroker built and back waiting in the garage. When the Dodge comes back from paint, it gets the stroker and I'll probably swap the 5.2L from the Dakota into the Jeep temporarily, for the same reasons as I'm swapping it into the Dodge. Then, I will build up the other 5.9L I have and eventually swap that into the Jeep, though it too may come apart completely for a fresh session in the paint booth (I'm toying with the idea of bring the tub to a body shop and having it professionally straightened so I can run a hardtop and full doors... while it's there, they might as well respray it too!).

I will admit though, there is a guy on FB selling a NOS Mopar Performance 5.2L stroker crank (turns it into a 390 cid, so about a 6.3L!) and I've contemplated asking him if he still has it...

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Old 01-14-2019, 09:20 AM
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For those curious about hooking up a Magnum engine in place of a 2.5L/4.0L EFI Jeep engine, Dodge seriously could not have made it much easier...

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As I'm working through the Magnum swap process in my W150, here is the list of Magnum wires that need to be hooked to the Jeep chassis harness. As you can see, there are plenty of wires here that will need to be removed - "trans temp lamp driver" for example. Others would be dependent on what accessories (if any) you are going to use, such as cruise control or A/C.

To make a Magnum run, you need 5 wires hooked up plus a ground for the ECM (not included in this picture/list since it's independent of the harness integration):
- 12V+ fused source (such as at the PDC)
- 12V+ switched source in run/start to "wake up" the ECM
- Fuel pump relay control driver wires (inside the PDC)
- ASD relay control (also inside the PDC)
- ASD output from the Jeep needs to go to the new ASD circuit (circuit A142 on my 1996 Dodge OBD-II donor harness).

After that:
2 - SCI/data connector
1 - MIL indication
1 - tach wire
1 - coolant temp switch (for gauge)
1 - oil pressure switch (for gauge, though could be two if you want to wire the OEM lamp warning light)
1 - VSS to speedo

In a "simple" swap, that's only 12 wires - and most of them are the same exact color on the Jeep harness. This is not something to be afraid of for those that are going to attempt it...
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:16 AM   #51
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Thank you so much for posting that. I've been stalling the wiring as the very last thing I'll do. Mostly because it's new and intimidating.

I Just a set of 5.13 gears, axles need to be rebuilt and then it's wiring.
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Old 01-16-2019, 08:18 PM   #52
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Might have to start looking for a 360 magnum truck motor donor.
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Old 04-15-2019, 11:00 AM   #53
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Hey,
Any updates?
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:02 PM
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Hey,
Any updates?
No real updates on the Jeep V8 swap, with the exception of beginning to work on the harness work... I'm wrapping up the work on the W150 so I can take the Jeep down this summer, so that's where my focus has been.
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:00 AM   #55
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For my swap I picked up a complete 98 ram sport 4x4 w/ a 5.9 high output magnum. Planning to go edelbrock intake & then some type of aftermarket FI kit (Holley sniper, FItech, etc).
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:58 AM   #56
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For my swap I picked up a complete 98 ram sport 4x4 w/ a 5.9 high output magnum. Planning to go edelbrock intake & then some type of aftermarket FI kit (Holley sniper, FItech, etc).
Buddy of mine just put a Holley kit on his 383 stroker. He says he's having all kinds of driveability issues, he also says people at Holley are of no real help.

What will that setup cost you? Hotwireauto will sell you a plug and play harness.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:03 AM   #57
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No real updates on the Jeep V8 swap, with the exception of beginning to work on the harness work... I'm wrapping up the work on the W150 so I can take the Jeep down this summer, so that's where my focus has been.
I think I'm "done" with my harness. I still have the trany relay to wire in for the 46re, I did post a question on my thread about it. If you get a chance, please comment on that.

I'm going to hook it all up in a day or so and turn the key and see how it goes.
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Old 04-16-2019, 01:40 PM
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For my swap I picked up a complete 98 ram sport 4x4 w/ a 5.9 high output magnum. Planning to go edelbrock intake & then some type of aftermarket FI kit (Holley sniper, FItech, etc).
To each his own, but I'm not sure why you would do that...

The Edelbrock Air Gap is good, but there are better options. That being said, the factory kegger and MPFI makes plenty of power and with some simple mods can noticeably bump peak power and power band. A new trend is to add "VRP" plates (volume reducing performance plates) which helps maintain intake runner velocity better and adds to cylinder fill. The factory MPFI is literally a 7-13 wire hook up, the JTEC ECM can be tuned from the driver seat, and the best part - it's FREE as all Magnum motors came with efficient and reliable MPFI (and transmission control) straight from the factory...

Removing the factory MPFI, to then turn around and spend $300-400 for an intake that tends to drop the bottom end, to then spend $900-1100 for an aftermarket, glorified electronic carburetor seems a bit bass ackwards to me.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:53 PM   #59
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Possibly but the mag intake & FI has always left a lot to be desired (at least from what I’ve read.)
Plus there’s the potential plate leak on the keg intake. But I’ve also read that the stock FI is the main limitation to making power with a magnum.
Glorified carbs commonly supply muscle cars generating 500-800hp (or more) whereas the stock keg & FI cannot do.
Another factor (unless something has changed is getting the FI pulses from a different trans other than what came behind a mag stock.
This is why many recommend ditching the stock dizzy in favor of an HEI.
On top of all this, I haven’t found a lot of aftermarket support for the magnum (sure there’s a couple companies but nothing like mopar LA, B, RB, etc engines for example.
Have you got some different info?
I’d love to check it out bc ^ I’ve always read this type of info about the stock magnum FI.
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ZombiePopper View Post
Possibly but the mag intake & FI has always left a lot to be desired (at least from what Iíve read.)
Plus thereís the potential plate leak on the keg intake. But Iíve also read that the stock FI is the main limitation to making power with a magnum.
Glorified carbs commonly supply muscle cars generating 500-800hp (or more) whereas the stock keg & FI cannot do.
Another factor (unless something has changed is getting the FI pulses from a different trans other than what came behind a mag stock.
This is why many recommend ditching the stock dizzy in favor of an HEI.
On top of all this, I havenít found a lot of aftermarket support for the magnum (sure thereís a couple companies but nothing like mopar LA, B, RB, etc engines for example.
Have you got some different info?
Iíd love to check it out bc ^ Iíve always read this type of info about the stock magnum FI.
If you're on FB, there are a few pages worth checking out, namely "Dodge & Jeep 5.2 & 5.9 Magnum V8 Performance & Tips" and "Flyin' Ryan Performance". Marty Fletcher from utahperformance is consistently breaking 500 ft lbs of torque on modest 5.9 rebuilds, with stroker engines easily surpassing 600 ft-lbs.

In what he commonly refers to as the "backyard builds", he easily gets 330+ HP and 400+ ft lbs on stock heads, factory kegger intakes, and JTEC computers. Here's a good example where he made serious streetable power with cracked cylinder heads (all for about $600)!! The Lil' Kegger Express - UTAWESOME PERFORMANCE I mean look at that torque curve skyrocket right off the bat and stay above 350 ft lbs for almost the entire curve! Want to make a street driven Jeep boogie - 350 ft lbs on a curve that looks like a table will do that!

Ryan, from Flyin' Ryan, is more into street builds that lean more towards track cars. His FB homepage has a Jeep Zj pulling tires off the ground with a relatively simple 5.2 build. He's a fan of forced induction and consistently puts the strength of the Magnum block to the test - all the while using the OEM JTEC computer (with a tune of course). With the correct injectors and tune, the JTEC has been proven to support up to 700 HP reliably.

Remember too that we're not talking about muscle cars here looking for peak power - we're talking about efficiency, driveability, longevity, and "useable power", particularly in low-speed situations common to Jeeps. A set of double pumpers can handle 900HP, but does so inefficiently and I certainly wouldn't want a pair of them feeding any engine on a 35ļ incline! The same can be said of the modern TBI systems out there, they work well in their niche but certainly leave much to be desired. I'm not talking bad about them and in certain instances they make a lot of sense, I'm simply saying that the modern Magnum already has a fantastic and efficient EFI setup and the money spent to add a setup with less efficiency and more dated technology is better spent elsewhere (for $1500, you can get a cam, heads, TB and tune and add over 40% more HP and Torque!).

I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to about the trans (transmission?) and FI pulses. If you can clarify, I can comment some. Generally speaking, making fuel injection work on a Magnum is extremely simple regardless of what transmission you decide to go with and particularly so with the transmissions common in a YJ (the AX15). None of the Magnum swap pages I'm on suggest swapping to an HEI setup. The only area in the Jeep world that tends to go with the HEI are the 4.2L AMC guys. That being said, I don't follow or read much in regards to those swapping to a carb setup.

There are a few select manufacturers of performance Magnum parts. Mopar, no matter what generation, has never had the pull of the SBC and SBF crowd. Even the famous Hemi's on yesteryear are nothing compared to what is available for every generation of SBC that has followed it. That being said, aside from utahperformance and Flyin' Ryan, Hughes is probably the other best known source of Magnum stuff, alongside some Mopar Performance goodies that are around if you keep an eye out. Edelbrock has a great set of heads too that can support all that the Magnum block can take and then some.

Indeed the kegger tends to die above 4500 RPM, but again, we're talking about a Jeep or street-driven truck. Unless you're changing the cam and heads to support the flow, you're not going to see appreciable gains by swapping out the kegger (actually, in many instances, Marty has shown that simple mods to the kegger actually surpases the aftermarket intakes in torque and HP). The plenum gasket is a simple and easy fix (about $25 in parts).

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