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Old 05-13-2015, 11:59 AM
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engine oil question

What is the difference between 0w-40 and 10w-40 Moto oil when it comes to a 4.2L I6 engine.

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Old 05-13-2015, 12:34 PM
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I am asking because I meant to get 10w-40 for my 87 4.2 I6 and did not realize I grabbed the 0w-40 by mistake and want to know if it will have any adverse effects

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Old 05-13-2015, 12:36 PM   #3
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0w40 is going to be synthetic, it's also going to flow easier in the winter when cold but will still be an SAE 40 when hot.

Both 0w40 and 10w40 will be the same when up to temperature, it's the 0w and 10w that make them different and that relates to the oil's properties when the oil itself is cold.
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:39 PM   #4
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Also, if your seals/gaskets are old and you have signs of any current or previous oil leaks whatsoever that 0w40 synthetic is going to clean everything out and expose any leaks that have been plugged up by sludge or other crap.
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:46 PM
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Ok so it is not going to harm the engine in any way but that very slight oil drip I have been getting will most likely turn into a bigger drip now. I know it is probably pointless to use but are any of those oil additives that are supposed to stop leaks worth trying while I save up to have the seals replaced?
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:47 PM
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Also thanks for the info I appreciate it
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Old 05-13-2015, 03:42 PM   #7
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Until you replace the seals and gaskets, you're probably gonna have leaks.
I have found that the 'stop leak' sealants aren't worth their weight and either gum up the works or just plain don't work.
To be safe (and I feel better), I use Lucas Oil additive (or you can use Slick50) which will coat the inner parts of your engine and not only avoid dry start-ups, but give you insurance if your oil level drops too low.
All that said, I have recently had my valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal replaced ... she don't mark her spot anymore!
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Old 05-13-2015, 04:04 PM
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Thanks Scott I figured most of those things weren't worth what they say. I found out that the leak is actually coming from the oil pan itself. A small portion of it is rusted to the point oil is seaping out. And with the 0W-40 I added its thinner and leaking a bit more. So I am gonna have to replace the pan and pan gasket.
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Old 05-14-2015, 02:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Scott-CJ8 View Post
Until you replace the seals and gaskets, you're probably gonna have leaks.
I have found that the 'stop leak' sealants aren't worth their weight and either gum up the works or just plain don't work.
To be safe (and I feel better), I use Lucas Oil additive (or you can use Slick50) which will coat the inner parts of your engine and not only avoid dry start-ups, but give you insurance if your oil level drops too low.
All that said, I have recently had my valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal replaced ... she don't mark her spot anymore!
How long did it take you to replace your rear main seal? Cause I need to do that to mine to
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:54 PM
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Shouldn't take to long. Not sure on exact time but I would say about 2 or 3 hours. This is a good wrote up for it [Repair] Rear Main Seal Replacement
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:18 PM   #11
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Shouldn't take to long. Not sure on exact time but I would say about 2 or 3 hours. This is a good wrote up for it [Repair] Rear Main Seal Replacement
See the thing is that j have to drop my tranny in order to get to it
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:59 PM
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Why do you have to drop the tranny? What do you have is it a 1 piece seal or 2 piece seal?
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:24 PM   #13
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Why do you have to drop the tranny? What do you have is it a 1 piece seal or 2 piece seal?
It has an auto tranny. It's in the way. And it's a one piece
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:55 PM
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Ah ok. I have a 5 speed standard with a 2 piece seal. Good luck I hope you get it done without to much time.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:16 AM   #15
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Also, if your seals/gaskets are old and you have signs of any current or previous oil leaks whatsoever that 0w40 synthetic is going to clean everything out and expose any leaks that have been plugged up by sludge or other crap.


X2 expect a cleansing action with synthetic. Not always a good thing for older engines.
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Old 05-17-2015, 02:01 AM
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Ya that is exactly what happened. As of right now I cleaned the area hit it with a wire wheel and then sanded it down and used some JB High heat weld as a temporary fix till I can get the parts. Then I will change the pan and gasket and probably the RMS while everything is open.

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