Failed front end alignment. Need ball joints - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Like Tree36Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 11-14-2019, 06:51 PM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Failed front end alignment. Need ball joints

I have a 1990 Wrangler. God only knows how many previous owners. Bought as project. I don’t have a plan and have been doing work as needed. New radiator. New seats. Removed front bumper with huge stinger and winch. Checking out more simple replacements. New front shackles and all bushings, except very back as I can’t access with gas tank in place. New wheels. New shocks. Took in for front end alignment. Failed. New ball joints recommended. I have read info and watched vids. I am in no rush. I can borrow the correct tools. I am an inexperienced novice with a logical mind and fairly strong back. I don’t think this is rocket science. My hubby wants me to take this job to shop rather than try myself. Our biggest fears (always) is the 30 year old bolts and the fiasco if they snap. I am asking for Opinions on novice doing this job or leaving it for the pros ? Thank you.

ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-14-2019, 07:03 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
agalloch07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,767
Ball joints are kind of a pain in the ass you need to put a lot of muscle into the ball joint press to bust them loose. I did them on a friends severely rusted YJ a few years ago and they came out but i wouldent say it is an easy job. If you do the job yourself use Dana/Spicer ball joints you can get them on rockauto.com or ebay cheap i think i got mine off ebay (free shipping).
ORHef likes this.

__________________
94, 4.0/NV4500/NP231HD w/JB Conversions super short SYE, 4.5" Rubicon Express lift, JKS 1.25" body lift, Dana 489's w/OX lockers 4.88 gears, Tom Woods drveshafts, 35" BFG KM3's, WFO boomerang shackles, Warn XD9000 winch, Doug Thorley header, JBA mid pipe, Borla cat back.
agalloch07 is offline   Quote
Old 11-14-2019, 09:24 PM   #3
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Luckymac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthEast of Denver
Posts: 9,289
Welcome to the Forum ORHef,

You might be able to borrow or rent a ball joint press at one of your local auto parts stores.
I don't know that penetrating oil will work on the ball joints, but I'm sure it won't hurt. Soak them all daily for a few days prior to beginning the replacement.

It's good to hear that girls want to do their own work. If you need more muscle, Harbor Freight sells a 25" half inch drive breaker bar for $14.00 and if you Google Harbor Freight you can fine 20% off coupons.

Good Luck, L.M.
ORHef likes this.
Luckymac is online now   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-14-2019, 10:30 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Tophog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Between Death Valley and Sin City!
Posts: 436
For the rear shackle removal, cut the bolt heads off and install new bolts from the outside. No tank removal is required.
__________________
'90 YJ, 4.2, auto
'93 YJ, 4.0, auto

Moderator - nevadashooters

Custom painters don't screw up . . . they just add more graphics!
Tophog is offline   Quote
Old 11-15-2019, 05:51 PM   #5
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Luckymac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthEast of Denver
Posts: 9,289
If you don't have a die grinder or a power hack saw, you can get the drivers side shackle out if you remove the outer nuts & plate, then pull the lower bushings off the shackle and pry the outer upper bushing out of the frame.
By doing that, you'll have enough wiggle room to push the shackle out of the frame. You can use a long screwdriver to push the bushing out along with the shackle. When you put it back together, you can put the shackle into the frame & spring from the outside and the plate and nuts on from the inside.
Dish soap makes the bushings slide in place a lot easier.

If the bushing isn't worn, I'd just leave it alone and concentrate on the ball joints for now.

Let us know how it goes. Just as many of us guys have our ladies help us with our Jeeps, you can enlist hubby as a helper.

Good Luck, L.M.
ORHef and mimillerus like this.
Luckymac is online now   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 12:02 PM
Thread Starter
  #6
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by agalloch07 View Post
Ball joints are kind of a pain in the ass you need to put a lot of muscle into the ball joint press to bust them loose. I did them on a friends severely rusted YJ a few years ago and they came out but i wouldent say it is an easy job. If you do the job yourself use Dana/Spicer ball joints you can get them on rockauto.com or ebay cheap i think i got mine off ebay (free shipping).
Thanks for the info. I will check it out !
mimillerus likes this.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 12:22 PM
Thread Starter
  #7
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
Welcome to the Forum ORHef,

You might be able to borrow or rent a ball joint press at one of your local auto parts stores.
I don't know that penetrating oil will work on the ball joints, but I'm sure it won't hurt. Soak them all daily for a few days prior to beginning the replacement.

It's good to hear that girls want to do their own work. If you need more muscle, Harbor Freight sells a 25" half inch drive breaker bar for $14.00 and if you Google Harbor Freight you can fine 20% off coupons.

Good Luck, L.M.
Yes, the local parts store has been very accommodating. And, yes, the power of penetrating oil is truly amazing. smile There was still plenty of smashing and cursing to amuse the neighbors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
If you don't have a die grinder or a power hack saw, you can get the drivers side shackle out if you remove the outer nuts & plate, then pull the lower bushings off the shackle and pry the outer upper bushing out of the frame.
By doing that, you'll have enough wiggle room to push the shackle out of the frame. You can use a long screwdriver to push the bushing out along with the shackle. When you put it back together, you can put the shackle into the frame & spring from the outside and the plate and nuts on from the inside.
Dish soap makes the bushings slide in place a lot easier.

If the bushing isn't worn, I'd just leave it alone and concentrate on the ball joints for now.

Let us know how it goes. Just as many of us guys have our ladies help us with our Jeeps, you can enlist hubby as a helper.

Good Luck, L.M.
I have read this post several times.... So once I cut the bolt head off (in my mind I see lots of sparks right beside the gas tank ?) and I manage by some super power to pull it apart and remove and replace bushing, then I reverse the bolt pattern to put together ?? Am I getting it ? And this would apply to passenger side as well (it's just that you specify "driver" side instructions). Thank you for your responses.

PS I assume that the back is as worn and tired out as the rest of them.
PPS Still trying to gather my confidence on the ball joints as I can see so many ways I could mess this up.
mimillerus likes this.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 12:23 PM
Thread Starter
  #8
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tophog View Post
For the rear shackle removal, cut the bolt heads off and install new bolts from the outside. No tank removal is required.
Thanks for the info !
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 12:28 PM
Thread Starter
  #9
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
ball joints question 2

What brand ? Honestly, why does there have to be so many ? Guys think gals are silly about shoes. Sheesh. They seem to range from $60 to $600. How does anyone decide ?
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 12:33 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
agalloch07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,767
Quote:
Originally Posted by ORHef View Post
What brand ? Honestly, why does there have to be so many ? Guys think gals are silly about shoes. Sheesh. They seem to range from $60 to $600. How does anyone decide ?

Dana/Spicer from ebay or rockauto.com I bought mine from this seller

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALL-JOINT-...sAAOSwdW9Z~Kqe
ORHef and mimillerus like this.
__________________
94, 4.0/NV4500/NP231HD w/JB Conversions super short SYE, 4.5" Rubicon Express lift, JKS 1.25" body lift, Dana 489's w/OX lockers 4.88 gears, Tom Woods drveshafts, 35" BFG KM3's, WFO boomerang shackles, Warn XD9000 winch, Doug Thorley header, JBA mid pipe, Borla cat back.
agalloch07 is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 12:36 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
Tophog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Between Death Valley and Sin City!
Posts: 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by ORHef View Post
Yes, the local parts store has been very accommodating. And, yes, the power of penetrating oil is truly amazing. smile There was still plenty of smashing and cursing to amuse the neighbors.



I have read this post several times.... So once I cut the bolt head off (in my mind I see lots of sparks right beside the gas tank ?) and I manage by some super power to pull it apart and remove and replace bushing, then I reverse the bolt pattern to put together ?? Am I getting it ? And this would apply to passenger side as well (it's just that you specify "driver" side instructions). Thank you for your responses.

PS I assume that the back is as worn and tired out as the rest of them.
PPS Still trying to gather my confidence on the ball joints as I can see so many ways I could mess this up.
Yep, you're getting it. There is the spark issue. Water soak rags or a blanket and wrap your gas tank in that area. It's not difficult.

However, if you have a leak with lots of fumes, then you're gonna be dropping the tank instead anyway.
ORHef likes this.
__________________
'90 YJ, 4.2, auto
'93 YJ, 4.0, auto

Moderator - nevadashooters

Custom painters don't screw up . . . they just add more graphics!
Tophog is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 01:18 PM   #12
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Luckymac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthEast of Denver
Posts: 9,289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
If you don't have a die grinder or a power hack saw, you can get the drivers side shackle out if you remove the outer nuts & plate, then pull the lower bushings off the shackle and pry the outer upper bushing out of the frame.
By doing that, you'll have enough wiggle room to push the shackle out of the frame. You can use a long screwdriver to push the bushing out along with the shackle. When you put it back together, you can put the shackle into the frame & spring from the outside and the plate and nuts on from the inside.
Dish soap makes the bushings slide in place a lot easier.
Good Luck, L.M.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ORHef View Post
I have read this post several times.... So once I cut the bolt head off (in my mind I see lots of sparks right beside the gas tank ?) and I manage by some super power to pull it apart and remove and replace bushing, then I reverse the bolt pattern to put together ?? Am I getting it ? And this would apply to passenger side as well (it's just that you specify "driver" side instructions). Thank you for your responses.
I think you're combining tow suggestions. I tried to describe the difference between what Tophog suggests and what I suggest, but I think it gets confusing.
I deleted the confusing directions before posting them and later today I'll post a diagram of what the differences are.

Also, I'll look at the back of my Jeep to make sure, but as I remember, there's access on the passenger side because that's where the tailpipe runs and the gas tank isn't in the way.

Good Luck, L.M.
__________________
"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
Luckymac is online now   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 01:23 PM   #13
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Luckymac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthEast of Denver
Posts: 9,289
Quote:
Originally Posted by ORHef View Post
Yes, the local parts store has been very accommodating. And, yes, the power of penetrating oil is truly amazing. smile There was still plenty of smashing and cursing to amuse the neighbors.
As far as the "correct" curse words go, we can't say them here, but if your neighbors grab their kids and take them inside, you're on the right track.

Good Luck, L.M.
Luckymac is online now   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 01:43 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
agalloch07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,767
I would cut the rear shackle bolts off with a sawzall there is no sparks and you wont end up cutting into the rear cross member. I dont think you could get a angle grinder up in there to cut through the bolt anyways.
__________________
94, 4.0/NV4500/NP231HD w/JB Conversions super short SYE, 4.5" Rubicon Express lift, JKS 1.25" body lift, Dana 489's w/OX lockers 4.88 gears, Tom Woods drveshafts, 35" BFG KM3's, WFO boomerang shackles, Warn XD9000 winch, Doug Thorley header, JBA mid pipe, Borla cat back.
agalloch07 is offline   Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 05:07 PM   #15
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Luckymac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthEast of Denver
Posts: 9,289
Quote:
Originally Posted by agalloch07 View Post
I would cut the rear shackle bolts off with a sawzall there is no sparks and you wont end up cutting into the rear cross member. I dont think you could get a angle grinder up in there to cut through the bolt anyways.
I agree. I don't think a person could get a angle grinder up in there without putting the plastic gas tank in peril of getting cut with the grinder blade.

A Sawzall might do the trick, but it still will be a tight fit.
The pics show where to cut. You only have to cut the top one. The bottom one (through the spring) will come out with a little effort and you can use it as an example at the hardware store to replace the upper bolt.

When you do this, jack the Jeep up as high as possible and put your jackstands under the frame. When you lower the jack the frame will sit on the jackstands and you can control the height of the spring eye by lifting or lowering the floor jack.
Harbor Freight has 6T jackstand on sale from time to time. The 6T jackstands are handy for supporting a lifted Wrangler. Not that you need the 6T rating, but the 6T jackstands are a lot taller and makes working under the Jeep easier.

Before you cut the head off the upper bolt, try this:
1- Remove both nuts, the lower bolt and the outer shackle plate.
2- Pry the outer upper bushing out of the frame.
3- Use a long screwdriver or punch to push the upper inner bushing and bolt out of the frame. Once the bushing is clear of the frame, manipulate (wiggle) the bolt, bushing and inner shackle plate so that you can get it past the gas tank.
If you can't get it past the tank, it'll be easier to cut with the bolt partly out of the frame.

I looked at my passenger side and it looks like it shouldn't be a problem like the drivers side. It may require some fiddling but it looks like there's more clearance.

The third pic is one of my old bushings. The outer edge is deteriorated but the inner working part is still serviceable. That's why I said to think about doing the ball joints first.

Good Luck, L.M.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1329.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	221.3 KB
ID:	4185975   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1330.jpg
Views:	21
Size:	222.8 KB
ID:	4185977  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1331.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	233.7 KB
ID:	4185979  
ORHef and mimillerus like this.
Luckymac is online now   Quote
Old 11-17-2019, 09:46 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
Gottagofast's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 8,169
X 1000 on spicer ball joints...

There's no need to cut the bolt....
I have removed several of them without cutting the bolt...

If the shackle bushings aren't obviously destroyed, LEAVE them alone.... they are either still working or they are torn and busted.... if they look ok then they ARE ok
ORHef and mimillerus like this.
__________________
I come in peace.... I mean you no harm
Currently in the stable: ... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj sbc 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster project

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
Gottagofast is offline   Quote
Old 11-17-2019, 12:57 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
steves92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: California
Posts: 1,937
If Iím not mistaken, you can also remove the front bolts(on the rear springs) and pivot the spring back enough to remove the bolt? Support the spring and axle under the ubolt plate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ORHef likes this.
__________________
Why did I wait so long to buy my first jeep??
'92 YJ 4.0 5spd....mostly 4
steves92 is offline   Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 12:42 PM
Thread Starter
  #18
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by agalloch07 View Post
Dana/Spicer from ebay or rockauto.com I bought mine from this seller

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALL-JOINT-...sAAOSwdW9Z~Kqe
OK! Ordered from your ebay guy. Thanks for info.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 01:20 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
Gottagofast's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 8,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by steves92 View Post
If Iím not mistaken, you can also remove the front bolts(on the rear springs) and pivot the spring back enough to remove the bolt? Support the spring and axle under the ubolt plate
Nothing you do with the spring will affect the upper shackle bolt position in any way
ORHef likes this.
__________________
I come in peace.... I mean you no harm
Currently in the stable: ... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj sbc 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster project

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
Gottagofast is offline   Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 01:36 PM   #20
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Luckymac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SouthEast of Denver
Posts: 9,289
Quote:
Originally Posted by steves92 View Post
If Iím not mistaken, you can also remove the front bolts(on the rear springs) and pivot the spring back enough to remove the bolt? Support the spring and axle under the ubolt plate.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1- When I replaced my springs, I had to cut 3 of the 4 main eye bolts. I would avoid that if at all possible. It's a real PITA.

2- The lower shackle bolt comes out. Once the bolt is out, the spring isn't an issue. If the spring gets in the way at all, it's easy enough to simply lower the floor jack as long as the Jeep is high enough on the taller jackstands. That's why I suggested the 6T jackstands.

NEVER get under any vehicle when it's supported by a jack alone. Jackstands on a level hard surface are the only safe way to support a vehicle other than a lift.
Cement blocks can easily crumble with any sort of impact. Jackstands can sink into asphalt on a warm day.

Be Safe and Good Luck, L.M.
gat, ORHef and mimillerus like this.
__________________
"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
Luckymac is online now   Quote
Old 11-19-2019, 12:12 PM
Thread Starter
  #21
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
I agree. I don't think a person could get a angle grinder up in there without putting the plastic gas tank in peril of getting cut with the grinder blade.

A Sawzall might do the trick, but it still will be a tight fit.
The pics show where to cut. You only have to cut the top one. The bottom one (through the spring) will come out with a little effort and you can use it as an example at the hardware store to replace the upper bolt.

When you do this, jack the Jeep up as high as possible and put your jackstands under the frame. When you lower the jack the frame will sit on the jackstands and you can control the height of the spring eye by lifting or lowering the floor jack.
Harbor Freight has 6T jackstand on sale from time to time. The 6T jackstands are handy for supporting a lifted Wrangler. Not that you need the 6T rating, but the 6T jackstands are a lot taller and makes working under the Jeep easier.

Before you cut the head off the upper bolt, try this:
1- Remove both nuts, the lower bolt and the outer shackle plate.
2- Pry the outer upper bushing out of the frame.
3- Use a long screwdriver or punch to push the upper inner bushing and bolt out of the frame. Once the bushing is clear of the frame, manipulate (wiggle) the bolt, bushing and inner shackle plate so that you can get it past the gas tank.
If you can't get it past the tank, it'll be easier to cut with the bolt partly out of the frame.

I looked at my passenger side and it looks like it shouldn't be a problem like the drivers side. It may require some fiddling but it looks like there's more clearance.

The third pic is one of my old bushings. The outer edge is deteriorated but the inner working part is still serviceable. That's why I said to think about doing the ball joints first.

Good Luck, L.M.
Thank you for the excellent info and photos. I appreciate it very much. I have ordered the ball joints. Also, front bumper on the way.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 09:21 AM   #22
Newb
 
DOUBLE_J's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Denver
Posts: 10
You can get them cheaper on Amazon, at least for my 04 LJ...
https://tinyurl.com/ujldcsr
Just buy 2.
ORHef likes this.
DOUBLE_J is offline   Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 09:54 AM   #23
Jeeper
 
agalloch07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,767
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUBLE_J View Post
You can get them cheaper on Amazon, at least for my 04 LJ...
https://tinyurl.com/ujldcsr
Just buy 2.

I am all for a good deal but some people boycott Jeff Bezos and Amazon for good reason.
ORHef and mimillerus like this.
__________________
94, 4.0/NV4500/NP231HD w/JB Conversions super short SYE, 4.5" Rubicon Express lift, JKS 1.25" body lift, Dana 489's w/OX lockers 4.88 gears, Tom Woods drveshafts, 35" BFG KM3's, WFO boomerang shackles, Warn XD9000 winch, Doug Thorley header, JBA mid pipe, Borla cat back.
agalloch07 is offline   Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 07:10 PM
Thread Starter
  #24
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Ok here we go. I have one more post to follow as I have a question about a piece that came with the ball joints. Thanks all
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	93D2CEA7-F51A-47D8-8BE2-BB0EB53D87D1_1574294727168.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	135.8 KB
ID:	4186573   Click image for larger version

Name:	D9A27F90-5D3D-4022-AFB5-021356E5C331_1574294789310.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	193.8 KB
ID:	4186575  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DBB0B2BA-6CFE-4F1A-B2A2-C2AAB48B8A41_1574294816651.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	163.2 KB
ID:	4186577   Click image for larger version

Name:	0E7C5318-C207-41BC-95EF-3B270B7D9B46_1574294839921.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	193.3 KB
ID:	4186579  

Click image for larger version

Name:	EBEA4376-66D9-4AA9-8C37-7E08A3D83BC0_1574294865406.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	197.6 KB
ID:	4186581  
mimillerus likes this.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 07:15 PM
Thread Starter
  #25
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
There’s a piece at the bottom of the picture. Maybe brass. Help ? What is it ? I don’t see it referenced in any of the videos I have watched. Thanks again.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	9160E69C-6D6C-4411-AB94-7FF813F3C020_1574295160104.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	195.2 KB
ID:	4186583   Click image for larger version

Name:	D4819BA7-EEC2-4107-BC88-63B35F0A0FBF_1574295180690.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	136.5 KB
ID:	4186585  

Click image for larger version

Name:	9F437D91-3A9D-4E82-AB0E-2BB4960C012D_1574295197108.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	180.2 KB
ID:	4186587   Click image for larger version

Name:	4801354B-E573-4501-B0AD-11C17DF3D47E_1574295220236.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	144.2 KB
ID:	4186589  

Click image for larger version

Name:	4F8B7EDB-FD84-4060-A025-C29E2545A93E_1574295242673.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	155.3 KB
ID:	4186591  
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 08:06 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
dante2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 291
It's a sleeve that fit's in the circled area. You have to unscrew the old one and put in the new one. You'll see it when you get the ball joint separated. Had to do ball joints in the Comanche last year.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	D9A27F90-5D3D-4022-AFB5-021356E5C331_1574294789310.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	58.6 KB
ID:	4186595  
ORHef likes this.
__________________
Her's
04 KJ 228K
Mine
94 YJ 4.0 AW4 2" Zone lift, 31's
Our's
03 KJ 220K 89 MJ 4.0 4wd auto
dante2 is online now   Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 08:27 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
agalloch07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,767
Quote:
Originally Posted by ORHef View Post
There’s a piece at the bottom of the picture. Maybe brass. Help ? What is it ? I don’t see it referenced in any of the videos I have watched. Thanks again.

That brass piece is not used on the Dana 30 throw it away or do whatever you want with it. It is only used on old school Dana 44's that use the same ball joint. You can see how they work in this video if you want

ORHef and mimillerus like this.
__________________
94, 4.0/NV4500/NP231HD w/JB Conversions super short SYE, 4.5" Rubicon Express lift, JKS 1.25" body lift, Dana 489's w/OX lockers 4.88 gears, Tom Woods drveshafts, 35" BFG KM3's, WFO boomerang shackles, Warn XD9000 winch, Doug Thorley header, JBA mid pipe, Borla cat back.
agalloch07 is offline   Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 12:44 PM
Thread Starter
  #28
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by dante2 View Post
It's a sleeve that fit's in the circled area. You have to unscrew the old one and put in the new one. You'll see it when you get the ball joint separated. Had to do ball joints in the Comanche last year.
Thank you. I will look.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 12:45 PM
Thread Starter
  #29
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by agalloch07 View Post
That brass piece is not used on the Dana 30 throw it away or do whatever you want with it. It is only used on old school Dana 44's that use the same ball joint. You can see how they work in this video if you want

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKsyifhXZwY
Thank you. Watched the video.
mimillerus likes this.
ORHef is offline   Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 12:50 PM
Thread Starter
  #30
Jeeper
 
ORHef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 19
When the guy failed me for front end alignment he said ball joints on one side plus steering shaft. I am doing all the ball joints today. Any ideas on "steering shaft" ? ... What is the most likely culprit and how do I test ? Thank you.

ORHef is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeepģ, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.