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Old 04-14-2012, 08:55 PM
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? for experienced auto painters

I am attempting to resurrect a salvage tub to rebuild my rusted out Minnesota YJ. It is black and will remain black. It has some damage and may not be able to be salvaged. If it is, then I will need to paint it and the rest of the Jeep.

My question is how much of the original paint should I take off? Most of the paint is solid with the clear coat showing damage. In the areas where I won't need to do body work, or if the paint is solid where the body work is done, am I better off roughing it up and preparing it for new paint, or should I take it all down to bare metal?

The new finish will, hopefully, be a respectable paint job but nothing showroom. Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also, what kind of paint was on the Wrangler originallY?

TKS

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Old 04-14-2012, 09:14 PM   #2
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Maybe this can help you.
First and foremost, you need a SOLID FOUNDATION when it comes to Paint.
In any area that the Paint or Clear is Failing, remove it.
If your foundation is solid, a good sanding & cleaning should suffice. ANY BARE
surface needs to be Primed and should be sealed.
The main thing to remember is ~~~ YOUR FINISHED PAINT JOB, will only be as good
as the preparation you put into it.
Prep is 90+% of a paint job, Spraying is about 10%.

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Old 04-15-2012, 07:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoyoteOn2
Maybe this can help you.
First and foremost, you need a SOLID FOUNDATION when it comes to Paint.
In any area that the Paint or Clear is Failing, remove it.
If your foundation is solid, a good sanding & cleaning should suffice. ANY BARE
surface needs to be Primed and should be sealed.
The main thing to remember is ~~~ YOUR FINISHED PAINT JOB, will only be as good
as the preparation you put into it.
Prep is 90+% of a paint job, Spraying is about 10%.
Well put. You are 100% right.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:31 AM   #4
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Clean before you sand. If not you will embed all the wax and oil and other crap into the sanded surface. And trying to clean it out after sanding does not always work. AX me how I found out the hard way. I painted a car 30 years ago, It had peeling top coat so I took some sanding paper and sanded it down and had all body work perfect. Cleaned it all up with some paint thinner. Used clean rags and then did it again. Let dry and I painted it and I had the benefit of a paint booth with heaters. Cured the paint and was all happy the next day. 3 days later bubbles started showing, then more, then more and so on. Most of the paint came off... Seems the guy that had car before me tried to hide the flaking clear coat with armor all or silicone spray. It reacted with paint and made a huge mess. I had to take off all new paint and reclean with some super strong stuff, then washed it with soap, then cleaned again, and washed then cleaned again. Shot sealer this time then primer and then paint. 1st time all I did was primer then top coat. 4 weeks of work and 1000 bucks of paint and supplies, when If I would have gotten that oil and armorall off at the beginning none of that would have happened. :esson learned, CLEAN THAT B--tch before sanding.. Use Purple power to eat that oil and wax off..
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:35 AM   #5
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Wash good before sanding just like Jeepsr4me said. Then sand the tub good but you don't have to go to the metal, if fact its recomended you don't unless that area's paint is damaged down to the metal. after you have sanded the tub wash it again and make sure you use a washing detergent without oil. I do belive Joy is not oil based. If you wash with an oil based detergent your paint job will fish eye and you don't want that. Prime it with a good quality primer that fills itself, the paint shop will understand that just ask for it. Then wet sand the primer with 1000 grit sand paper or higher and wash again after you have wet sanded. let dry and base coat it or whatever type paint your using. Base coat/clear coat is probably the easiest way to paint if you are not great at painting but that's up to you. Most important thing to remember is just what everyone is saying......your paint job is 90% prep. Take your time, sand smooth and wash wash wash.....once its smooth and primed and clean....spray it working from the top to bottom in a nice smooth motion and do it a quickly as possiable without screwing up lol. Have someone follow you holding your air hose so it don't slow you down. Its really not hard just most people don't have the patients to do it right. Take your time taping off the area's you dont want painted but make sure you don't cover the areas that do need paint.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:38 AM   #6
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Check to see which detergent to use....its Dawn or Joy! One is oil based and the other isn't....I really can't remember, I haven't painted a car in years but used to do it daily. This is very important though! Use the correct type or you will hate yourself lol.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:03 AM
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Good advice

Thanks for the advice. I have one advantage that it is a tub replacement. So, the salvage tub will be stripped totally to just the tub. So, I will be able to do the undercoating and bedliner portions and then do the exterior. Minimal masking and maximum access.

I've power washed it a couple of times already, but with no soap. Once I get the body work done I will do the wash/rinse/wash/rinse bit before starting to prep for painting.

Does anyone have any suggestions on undercoating and bedlining? I want to get as much sound deadening as practical also. Being in NM there is minimal rust consideration. Again, since it is bare tub I will have maximum access and minimal interference.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #8
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Dawn detergent will remove Oils and waxes, Joy is good but not as good.
And for that WEEKLY washing Use IVORY for washing dirt from the
Veh, as in weekly washing, and WILL NOT REMOVE THE WAX YOU SPENT HOURS
PUTTING on the Veh to make it look good.

Here is a LINK that has answers to many questions that are asked about Painting
Vehicles. Some good information ~~ Frequently-Asked Questions about Automotive Painting

As far as your question regarding Undercoating types of coatings, I would recommend
taking a look at ~~ Eastwood - Auto Body Repair Tools | MIG Welder | TIG Welder | Plasma Cutter | Auto Body Supplies & Accessories

You will find some real GREAT products / Prices on anything related to Painting /
Restoration / Body Repair and such. They all so have one of the greatest Customer
Service Depts in the industry.

I use them as well as ~~ TCP Global - Quality & Service Since 1974

for a lot of Materials and supplies that I use when needed.

Hope this helps and provides you with some Direction. Good Luck.

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Die many deaths......................
Those that DO NOT, DIE ONLY ONCE
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