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Old 04-13-2015, 07:39 AM
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Ford 9" and dana 44

Went to the URE jamboree this weekend and had some luck at the swap meet!! I got two new seatbelts which is nice and a hi lift jack with hood mounts. But the steal of the century was the ford 9" and Dana 44 out of the same truck. Here are my questions. Currently I have a 2.5L... I am going to upgrade but I want to build these axles. So should I leave the 3.55 gear ratio or change them to 4.10 or 4.88? What do you recommend? Then I have the disk brake conversion it came with it but what do I need to buy to make the drive axles mount up? Also should I have them sand blasted or just grind off the rust my self and paint them? After I relocate the lead spring brackets they should mount up right?

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Old 04-13-2015, 10:27 AM   #2
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I need more info. What motor do you intend to run? Will it keep the same tire size and lift? Is this mostly an off-road toy, or a daily driver? Spring perches, emergency brake cables, and any other parts can be bought from ECGS or other after market shop. I'd just wire wheel the axles and repaint them with rustoleom hammer finish, makes it easy to touch up when you drag them across rocks.

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Old 04-13-2015, 10:33 AM   #3
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Ford axles are better than chrysler, especially in Diesel Trucks.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:48 AM   #4
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With the 4 cyl, you already 4.10 Gears. If you are planning going up in tire size you will want to go with 4.88's or 5.13's with them 4 squirrels.
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:10 PM   #5
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Another few incidentals, you'll need new u- bolts and spring plates, the D44 can have different size tubes so measure. My Currie front D44 has 3" tubes with one side needing 3.5 inch around the housing. You'll probably have to shorten your DS since the 9" has a pretty long pinion end, you may consider a stretch though that means more work. Possibly relocate or new shock tabs. If you like a steering dampener you'll need to buy or make an attachment. Depending on your tire size and off road driving you'll want to look at your steering setup, I'd suggest it's a good time to go 1 ton tie rod and ends.
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:34 PM
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So I have the 2.5 currently, I am looking to swap to a 4.0L or a V8...Which ever I come along to first at the better deal. I am not in a hurry to build this as my Jeep is not a daily nor is it always off road. I go probably 3 times a year to URE and camping another 2 or 3 times. I also hunt and take the jeep then. Finally I drive it during the summer when the weather is nice. So I want a versatile vehicle, nothing too crazy.

I was thinking about going back to stock springs if I do keep the spring over perches. Or keep my lift springs and do spring under again.... What is your opinion on that?

The axles are out of a 74' F100 do you guys know if the "wedges" are cast in place or welded on? Do I have to remove them or can the simply stay on and the perches be made to fit?

I have never done an axle swap on a vehicle and the deal was too good to pass down plus I know my D35 is numbered... Everything else on this wrangler as been so why wouldn't it haha. Thank you guys for your comments and I look forward to your answers.
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:36 PM
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Sorry to post another question but do the axles have to be cut to a new width? I was reading a lot of people cut the tubes and re welded them... Is this because they don't want to wide stance? Or does it have to be done to make them work?
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:28 PM   #8
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I left mine full width. Not sure what the laws about tire coverage where you are, but some custom flares can cover the tires. You will probably have to relocate the spring perches to match the width of the frame so wedges are irrelevant.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:59 PM   #9
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What you're talking about is not going to be a run of the mill jeep. I'd leave the axle width for a wider stance, if you have to cover the tires, it's going to take some flares. Going the 4.0 or V8 the 4.10 would be fine with your tires, if you plan to go larger tires like 35's I'd go 4.56.
I'd cut all the perches and shock mounts off, sand it down and weld your new hardware on, then repaint.

Just to be sure, I know Fords came with passenger side D44 pumpkins and driver side. I hope yours is driver side.
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:45 PM
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We have no tire coverage law in NC can someone post a pick of the full width axles under their jeep? I want to see how far out the tires are... What about spring over or under? I have 2.5in lift springs currently if I do spring over should I go back to stock springs?
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:58 PM   #11
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How much lift do you want? Going spring-over with stock axles is good for around 5.5". The thicker tubes on the Ford 9" and D44 will give more.

Thickness of the springs and height of the spring pads will affect the overall amount of "lift" from where you currently are.
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Old 04-14-2015, 04:15 PM   #12
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I have a 44 and nine inch out of s 77f100 it had welded wedges you have to grind a little on the axle pumpkin on the drivers side former the perch and u bolt to fit you'll need new ubolts and plates and shock mounts I went spring over with stock springs and shackles and 35s on 10 inch wheels I'm still working on the front steering and rear brakes I got the driveshafts from the same veh as I'm using a 302 and ford tcase

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Old 04-14-2015, 10:22 PM   #13
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This isn't the best shot, but it gives you an idea.



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Old 04-15-2015, 09:34 PM   #14
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can someone post a pick of the full width axles under their jeep?
Front axle is a Ford kingpin HPD60 from an F350.

Rear axle is a 2nd gen full float 14bolt from a Chevy 3500.

I forget the exact WMS-WMS for the axles but it's ~69" & ~67". I've got my Jeep under the knife right now going through all sorts of modifications/upgrades.



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Old 04-16-2015, 11:19 AM   #15
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Old 04-16-2015, 01:05 PM   #16
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I am doing a stretch with mine- XJ leafs allow for a 3-4" stretch without much modifications. I'm going to try and (maybe) stretch the front. But the rear for sure. Going for that 100" WB mark at least. I figure since I'm going SOA and swapping axles I might as well do everything I want to now and do it right once
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Old 04-16-2015, 02:29 PM
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Daddy jeep: is yours stock leaf springs or lift springs? I'm trying to figure out if I should go back to stick sprigs when I do the axle swap
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:27 PM   #18
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Daddy jeep: is yours stock leaf springs or lift springs? I'm trying to figure out if I should go back to stick sprigs when I do the axle swap
No more leaf springs for me. I have radius arms up front and 4 link in the rear with nitrogen shocks. I am at around 6" of lift.
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:47 PM   #19
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I am doing a stretch with mine- XJ leafs allow for a 3-4" stretch without much modifications. I'm going to try and (maybe) stretch the front. But the rear for sure. Going for that 100" WB mark at least. I figure since I'm going SOA and swapping axles I might as well do everything I want to now and do it right once
I think you're in for a surprise. XJ springs are about a 6" stretch, requiring some gas tank work and something to control all of that spring wrap.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:36 PM   #20
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Man you guys are like mad scientists with your 4 links and xj stretches. I'd love to know what ya'll are talking about. lol.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:44 PM   #21
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This site and others have corrupted me for a lot of years. I used to be perfectly happy with leaf springs and a 6 cylinder before the corruption started.
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:12 AM   #22
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I think you're in for a surprise. XJ springs are about a 6" stretch, requiring some gas tank work and something to control all of that spring wrap.
I thought it was half than that but yes, I knew all of the rest. I limped it all together doesn't seem like more work when thinking about everything you have to do for an SOA plus axle swap
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:26 AM   #23
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I thought it was half than that but yes, I knew all of the rest. I limped it all together doesn't seem like more work when thinking about everything you have to do for an SOA plus axle swap
There is just a little bit of extra work. You'll just have to relocate your shock mounts and shackle hangers. Then find out something to do with the gas tank. Some people form a dent into the tank for clearance, but a fuel cell is a lot easier.
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:37 PM
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So wait.... You have to move the gas tank or re shape it to use the Ford axle? Is this because of the pinion angle required? Also, I will have to get new drive shafts correct? Or can I have mine modified? I would guess this is the opportunity to go SYE correct?
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Old 04-17-2015, 05:00 PM   #25
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So wait.... You have to move the gas tank or re shape it to use the Ford axle? Is this because of the pinion angle required? Also, I will have to get new drive shafts correct? Or can I have mine modified? I would guess this is the opportunity to go SYE correct?
You would need to reshape the tank with a wheel base stretch, not because of the axle. The problem with getting the stock shaft modified is that it is really short. SYE and CV wouldn't be as bad idea.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:50 PM
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As long as I don't stretch the wheel base I don't have to modify the gas tank then correct?
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:07 PM   #27
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As long as I don't stretch the wheel base I don't have to modify the gas tank then correct?
correct no mod needed unless axle is move back
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:50 AM   #28
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Looks like all the experience is here in one spot, so I'm getting in on it.
After, (or while), I drop my 350/NV4500/NP241c into my 89 Wrangler, I assumed on going with a Ford 8.8 and a Dana HP 44 from a 96-99 Cherokee. Both are in stock in my pick and pull.
Is this a proper match? Do I need to be more specific with the 8.8? I am thinking I should grab axels before I set my powertrain and weld my motor mounts, that way I am only having driveshafts made once.
I am pretty ignorant about axels and gearing, etc...
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:34 AM   #29
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Looks like all the experience is here in one spot, so I'm getting in on it. After, (or while), I drop my 350/NV4500/NP241c into my 89 Wrangler, I assumed on going with a Ford 8.8 and a Dana HP 44 from a 96-99 Cherokee. Both are in stock in my pick and pull. Is this a proper match? Do I need to be more specific with the 8.8? I am thinking I should grab axels before I set my powertrain and weld my motor mounts, that way I am only having driveshafts made once. I am pretty ignorant about axels and gearing, etc...
Good luck with that hp 44 front from an XJ. Cause xj's never had a hp 44 or any 44 up front for that matter. They only had hp30's upto 00 when it was changed to lp. As for rears the early 84-90 xj's could be bought with optional D44 rear. But most have a d35 or 8.25
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:50 AM   #30
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Yeah that's right, HP 30 from July-ish 96 - 99 Cherokee. I was going off memory instead of my notes in the garage. Thanks for the correction.

Back to my off-topic topic.: 8.8 with HP 30 how-to. (if-to?)

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