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Old 09-09-2016, 06:09 PM
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Heater controller

I'm trying to pull my dash off on my 94 YJ and I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect the heat control panel? I have everything else disconnected and it would come right off but the heater panel is connected to the cables and I can't figure out how to disconnect cables or ???

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Old 09-09-2016, 10:35 PM   #2
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The cables are held onto the heater control panel with plastic clips. Each cable has a different color clip.

The clip is released from the bottom by pinching the fingers that protrude through the control panel body. I use a needle nose pliers. Mark the control panel or the cables so that you can put them back where they came off.

Be very careful to not break the clips. Your clips are 22-23 years old and are probably brittle. Be gentle as you pinch them.

If they break no matter how gentle you are, I have a way to re-attach them without having to buy new cables.
Wading through the ebay ads for new cables is a bunch of brain damage because the sellers don't make good descriptions of what they have.

Good Luck, L.M.

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Old 09-10-2016, 10:03 PM   #3
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Lucky Mac, what happens if one of the clips breaks? My heater blows hot air constantly, like it's on full blast, and I'm wondering if one of the cables is disconnected.
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyndiB View Post
Lucky Mac, what happens if one of the clips breaks? My heater blows hot air constantly, like it's on full blast, and I'm wondering if one of the cables is disconnected.
Is it blowing it out from just the floor vents or defrost as well.

Can you change where it blows out of?

If TEMP is the only issue ...... the problem is with the BLEND GATE.

If FLOW DIRECTION ( Defrost / Floor ) is the issue DEFROST GATE.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/yj...ned-68618.html

I recently rebuilt my heater system ..... new heater core, new fan.

There are three cables that go from the controller to the heater box itself.

I believe that if you read the explanation of the heat system in the following thread you will become very knowledgeable about the system.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/yj...ned-68618.html

After going through and doing the entire system, I came to the conclusion that in a YJ ..... one may not even need the heater controller.

Read that description ..... learn what each cable controls and you can manually control the heater from the levers on the heater box itself.
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:50 AM   #5
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If they break no matter how gentle you are, I have a way to re-attach them without having to buy new cables.
I have one that broke ...... on the far end of the box away from the controller.

After rebuilding my heater box, and making sure everything operated smoothly before reinstalling I found my " blend gate " to be operating not as it should.

I now suspect it may be cable related.

After rebuilding the system, I am thinking of just manually controlling the gates at the box itself.

To me that is the beautiful thing about the CJ/YJ .... you can get at everything easy enough.

After the YJ they began shrouding everything in stupid plastics, replaced leaf springs with coil springs ...... I guess they wanted to 'soften' it up, and make it more aesthetically appealing to the weaker generations!
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:51 PM   #6
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CindiB, Sorry it took so long to get back to you.

On the plenum side of the heater cable I simply wrapped a length of mechanics wire (bailing wire) around the mount that the clip plugs into and twisted the wire ends to hold the clip in place. Pic 1

On the heater control I had to drill a small hole in order to be able to wrap the wire around the clip. Pic 2

So far it has worked for me. While I had my dash apart to paint I sprayed Deep Creep into the cable ends. It seemed to help. Hope it works for you.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:35 AM   #7
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Thanks guys. The heat is coming from the floor vents. I tried closing the blend gate manually, but the mechanism only goes about half way. Also, the motor comes on when I move the upper lever to vent, so I think maybe those cables are reversed.
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:11 PM   #8
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Also, the motor comes on when I move the upper lever to vent, so I think maybe those cables are reversed.
Yeah, something's not right there.

When I first got my YJ and put it to vent, the motor turned off and I thought it was broken.

That's when I found that thread explaining the system.
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:58 PM   #9
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I just had my heater core repaired. What a pain in the neck that was. At the same time I completely disassembled my dash and painted it. I have dual batteries, so that added to the fun. And, BTW, I removed the computer and all related wiring and installed a HEI distributor, also at the same time.
It's much easier to do with the doors off.

The aftermarket heater core I bought prior to beginning the job was much smaller than my OE core and it didn't fit too well. I could have made it fit by shortnening one of the mounting screws so that it didn't rub on the replacement core and worry a hole. My original core had seepage at one neck where it was soldered to the core body. I elected to have my old core repaired rather than use the aftermarket heater core. Cost me $45.00.

And, now to the point.

The clip on the cable that controls the vent door was broken at the vent door end and I couldn't get to it until after I had the heater box out of the Jeep. That's the cable end at the far end of the heater box from the controller. I used the same technique to secure the clip into its mount as I posted in the pics above.

While I had the heater control out and the cable ends accessible, I sprayed Deep Creep penetrating oil in the open end of the cables and let it run down the inside of the cable housings. The whole project took a couple weeks, working part time, so the Deep Creep had time to work. I sprayed it in probably every day the controller was out of the Jeep. While I had the heater box apart I lubed the areas where the door shafts go through the heater box housing.

I also pulled the defroster duct so that I could lube the cables that run behind it and to make sure the vacuum line to the vacuum "motor" was in good shape and the motor was working properly.

Harcosparky points out the sticky at the top of the YJ tech page. Anyone that has issues with their heater/defroster should study that sticky.

Pic 1 is the OE core and the aftermarket core side by side

Pic 2 is the stock screw rubbing on the aftermarket heater core and wanting to cause a problem. The aftermarket core was probably made offshore with questionable quality control.

Pic 3 is the freshly painted dash. I used Rustolium semi-gloss black that stated that it is suitable for plastic. I scrubbed the daylights out of everything with detergent and a scotchbrite pad prior to painting.

Hopefully I am done with dash, heater, heater controls and wires for the winter.

Good Luck to all, L.M.
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__________________
"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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