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Old 12-05-2008, 10:14 PM
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Question Hmmmm... questions...

So I bought 1991 Jeep Wrangler, first one...really excited...
I thought 91's only came w/ the 4.0, but do they have a 1991 w/ 4.2 and fuel injection? How do I know if I have the 4.2 or the 4.0?
My battery is new w/ new cables. There must be a drain on the battery cause it's brand new and after it sits for awhile it drains the battery dead, anyone have any idea on what this could be? It had aftermarket stereo that I thought was the problem, but I unhooked everything and doesn't seem to matter...
How hard is a v8 swap? 318 or 360? I have the 5 speed.
There is some rust....what about a fiberglass body kit? price? where to get?
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!
Jon

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Old 12-06-2008, 04:02 PM   #2
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welcome to the forum. your 91 is a 4.0, congrats on the new jeep. put up some pics.

draw on the battery can be a million things. most common one i've seen is glove box light stays on, or you may have a short, or a bad battery. i can walk you through how to test for the draw if you'd like, let me know. make sure your battery is good and the connections are clean and tight first.

fiberglass bodies are probably more than you paid for the jeep, they are around 2 grand off the top of my head, i know they're more than a grand.

v8 swaps are done all the time, and i like the dodge idea, at least keeping it in the same ball park, unlike the gm conversions. you need a lot of parts, engine, wiring harness, computer, accessories(alternator, p/s pump and so on) and you say you have the trans. even when you get all the parts they don't just fall right in, its a lot of work

4.0 is a great motor, and its also not to hard, and a lot cheaper to build a stroker out of it, and it will put out better hp and torque than stock v8's.

hope that helps.

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Old 12-06-2008, 05:18 PM   #3
that's what she said

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welcome to the forum. i pretty sure (but not 100%) that the 4.2's were all carburated, and the 4.0's fuel injected. i would stay away from the fiberglass tubs. they are, like dave said, expensive. plus they break instead of dent, so body damage is usually worse on a fiberglass. you can get a used yj body tub in good condition for cheap. i am replacing the body tub on my cj7 with a yj tub and i got the whole setup (shown in pic below) for $500.
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgano23 View Post
welcome to the forum. i pretty sure (but not 100%) that the 4.2's were all carburated, and the 4.0's fuel injected. i would stay away from the fiberglass tubs. they are, like dave said, expensive. plus they break instead of dent, so body damage is usually worse on a fiberglass. you can get a used yj body tub in good condition for cheap. i am replacing the body tub on my cj7 with a yj tub and i got the whole setup (shown in pic below) for $500.
awesome deal you dont want those rock sliders do ya?
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:16 PM   #5
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wow,$500,that is a great deal.
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:31 PM
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So it's definetly the 4.0, runs great.
I have a problem w/ my battery draining, I put new a battery and cables on it, drains dead w/in a day...and it's already left me stranded once... my alternator tests out okay. Like I said I bought it w/ this problem thinking it was the rusted amp and aftermarket stereo that was causing the drain....wrong.
I also dont have brake lights nore rear blinker lights, and this is new, probably not related, but worrisome. The actual brake switch works w/ a wire tester... but following that wire is about impossible. The lights come on in the rear okay, just not turn or brake lights.
All my fuses seem to be good, not sure how to check relays...
JPDOCDAVE, you mentioned you might help me look for a draw on the battery? ANY help would be much appreciated! Thanks for the responses! I hate wiring!
THANKS!
Jon
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:24 PM   #7
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make sure everything is off, remove positive cable and put your test light in line, one side on the battery and one side on the cable. if the light lights up you have a draw. touch the cable to the battery just to make sure its not the computer and any time you break the connection touch the cable for a second. now its best to have a buddy start pulling fuses one by one, pulling it, and if the light stays on put it back. when you pull a fuse, and the light goes out, you now at least no what circuit your draw is on.
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:19 PM   #8
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Would the in dash clock thingy do it?
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Old 12-08-2008, 09:41 AM   #9
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keep alive memory on the computer, and clocks will not draw enough to light the test light. i have seen clocks on newer vehicles do it. newer stuff has a sleep mode, everything draws for a couple minutes, then it all just goes into sleep mode, or keep alive.

his clock shouldn't kill the battery in a day, but if the clock shorts somehow it is possible.
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:32 AM
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jpdocdave, not sure i understand,
1) make sure everything is off, unhook positive battery cable
2) put your test light in line, on side on the battery and one on the cable (what line and which side?)
Sorry, i've never done this before, it's probably very elementary, just not sure I understand where I'm putting my test light....
Thanks a ton for any info,
By the way I found my brake problem. The previous owner hooked the brake lights to a toggle switch that I removed trying to find draws on the battery. Why he hooked the brake lights to a toggle is beyond me, but then again he was an idiot....
Thanks!
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:55 PM
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okay, I think I'm hooking up the light test right. I'm putting the ground clamp on my positive battery cable and the pointer to the positive terminal on the battery. I get a nice glowing light which goes out when I touch the positive cable to the battery.
I pulled all my fuses and the light stays on.
When I bought it the right tail light was out, which I thought was causing a fast blink, but when I replaced it the fast blink continued. All blinkers and light work.
I notice the test light has a slow blink to it, this makes me think it's possibly my flasher for the blinkers???? I'm gonna throw a new flasher on it for giggles and see what happens, if that's not it...another interesting bit is when I plug in my dome light switch, the flashing stops and my light gets brighter...go figure. Anyone have some ideas on what to do? I'm gonna run to the local part shop and grab a blinker flasher....
wish me luck
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:17 PM   #12
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sounds like you got the test light right. that dull blinking is usually from the computer, and what you see when the dome light is plugged in is a full out draw. try waiting 5 mins with the test light in place and see if the dull blinking goes away, and then test. without experience here it is easy to get eroneous results since you don't know what to look for.

and if the draw doesn't go away when pulling fuses, look for other fuses, and double check that nothing is left on. once again, check your glove box light. good luck
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Old 12-08-2008, 02:23 PM
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My glove box door is missing, and I see no wires for the light. I am going to have to start taking out the dash to find it...
I grabbed a blinker flasher and that fixed my blinkers, you're right i still have the low blinking glow. I left it for 15 minutes and it still has the blinking glow....is this my problem??
Thanks A TON,
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Old 12-08-2008, 02:35 PM   #14
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sounds like you need to start disconnecting, and reconnecting things untill that light goes out, or almost completely out. you should be able to find the circuit by pulling fuses, even if worst case you have to pull those bigger main fuses, at least you can narrow it down. good luck.
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Old 12-08-2008, 02:47 PM
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I think I found it... when I unplug the 20A on the fuse box the light stops blinking...just a low glow, it's labeled I.O.D.
I have no manual so I'm gonna see if I can figure out what it is? Do you know jpdocdave?
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Old 12-08-2008, 03:11 PM
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Now my question is, can the IOD draw enought to drain my new battery in a matter of hours??? It stands for ignition off draw, and from what I can tell I think its for towing mainly. I simply removed it. Guess I'll probably find out by driving it...I'll keep some jumper cables handy...
If this isn't it I think my jeep will be for sale... at the bottom of Wall Lake...
just kidding!
Jon
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Old 12-08-2008, 03:15 PM   #17
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see, that circuit is for all the keep alive memory stuff. clock, radio, and ecu memory. something on there could keep drawing too much, but its obviously supposed to draw. are you sure the battery and charging system is good, maybe you got a bad battery.

maybe removing it will be ok, but obviously radio and clock won't stay, not sure if it will effect driveability.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:08 PM
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I removed the fuse and drove it. Turned it off and the thing wouldn't start. I hooked up my charger and it told me my battery was about 75%. This lead me to beleive it was the silinoid. Bingo, new starter and silinoid, turns over like a champ. This still doesn't explain the drain on my battery though, If I let it sit for 6 hrs the battery is dead. I had the battery and alternator checked, twice, tests good. I think i'll stick the fuse back in it and try it again in the morning...we'll see...
Thanks for all the help jpdocdave...seriously VERY appreciated!
Jon
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:41 PM   #19
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Another possible way to tell if it is a draw or if it is the battery is just disconnect the positive terminal from the battery when you park it for the evening. In the morning reconnect and see if it works. I bought a new battery for my Jeep and it kept going dead after a day or two, got worse over time and had it rechecked about a month after I bought it. Battery was bad, replaced it and haven't had a problem since.
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:19 AM   #20
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try disconnecting the alternator main lead ill bet your regulator is sticking. it will test good but still have a drain. ive had this issue before.

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