I have 31s and a 2.5 inch suspension lift I would like to go soa with 35s or something like that Ford 8.8 in the back d44hp in the front locked on both but my issue is I have heard that is gonna run me 4-5000 $ witch doesnt seem like it’s very practical so I started looking for other things and maybe buy another lift but it bums me out that I already spent money on a 2.5 but that was 4 years ago and I didn’t want to go that big. And the type of wheeling that I do it’s mostly in the high desert and in the mountains in my area there are only 2-3 trails I can’t go down because I need a bigger this or that or lockers but I think it would look great on 35s and I could go in to a couple of remote spots that I can’t get to now any ideas on what I could do or should I forget the whole thing and just do a 1 inch shackle lift with 33s
I suggest changing ur approach... grab a 1.25" body lift and some 33's...
Next comes axles gears, and lockers....
You would be amazed at just adding a locker to the front... the d30 is plenty strong for 33's and if you leave the rear open and drive w some sense it will hold up well also...
Next option would be better shafts in the rear and next would be an 8.8...
Last choice is to figure out what you want to do about gearing....
Whatever you do I strongly suggest steering away from soa...
Okay any good brands on chrome molly shafts and my yj has the 4cyl so I’m thinking 4.88 for gears where I live there are 4-5 trails (now that I think about it ) that I need more upgrades like gears and 4:1 t case but it would be kind of nice to be able to get out of a big wash out in the desert.
what do you think about the Front axle locked and it being a split shaft for the 4wd
If I had a 2.5l Jeep, I would personally put in a SM465 using a chevy s10 2.8l manual bellhousing and maybe a doubler transfer case. The SM465 is very short so a doubler is possible and you really wouldn't need deep axle gears with a granny gear transmission.
I'm with Gottgofast, the 1.25" body lift will allow 33s, you could add 1" longer shackles for a little more lift, but you may need a SYE if you don't already have one. Yeah, with a 4cyl 4.88s would be the best. Several companies make better rear axle shafts in stock 27 spline or you could go with 30 spline, although that means a new carrier. I have a D35 rear also and I'm not going to spend any money on it, I'm saving for a D44 or 8.8. Barnes 4x4 has a very good skid plate that can be had in 0, 1" or 2" drop, that combined with 1" lift Brown Dog or MORE motor mounts will allow you to get over bigger obstacles; although if you do that you will definitely have to have a SYE. Most of us do not have $5K or more, to drop into our Jeep all at once so we do it incrementally, that is part of the fun, constant improvement.
I have a ax 5 manual tranny looking for a ax15 maybe but 4.88 s will work I don’t wheel super hard the only time I would really goose on the skinny is in the mud or snow maybe if I need to so the Dana 35 should work
But maybe I’ll do all that except the 35 and get a 8.8 them when it breaks I will throw the 8.8 in
There have been a few threads lately talking about Detroit Tru Tracs for the D35. I have no personal knowledge or experience with them but they sound like a viable option.
The way I understand it, they're better than a limited slip, not as good as a locker and have good street manners. Hopefully, some wiser will enlighten us.
If you're keeping the D35 then I would suggest building a Super 35. A Locker of your choice that accept 30 spline shafts and of course 1541H 30 spline shafts. Strong enough for 35's but 33's would be better. An Eaton Trutrac will only accept 27 spline shafts in the D35 and 35's should be avoided.
When I started my build up on my YJ, I started exactly like you with the 2.5 lift and 31's.
I then went to the 1 inch body lift and flat flares and got 33's. It's a good start and then go from there, as Gottagofast suggested.
Cold some one throw together a quick list of things I need for a 8.8 swap I know about the pearches and shock brackets and I bolts but what else drive line ? Sye? I know there are wright ups about it but I am more of a check list kinda person then reasearch how to do it
You are on the right track thinking of the 8.8 . Get rid of the 35. If you even lightly wheel it will break. Super 35 or not the ring and pinion are tiny and housing is weak to say the least. Some people may have different experiences but here is mine - long time ago- open diffs stock four banger stock gears and 33s light hill climb, ring and pinion let loose. If you drive off-road on a regular basis and put stress on it , it will break. My current build- 8.8 with stock shafts and lunchbox locker, small block, atlas and 36 iroks and a happy right foot at times, ditch the idea of a super 35 and get the 8.8. Just weld the tubes as they do spin.
Sye and new rear driveshaft that mounts to 8.8 flange. Tom woods is great. Been awhile but I do believe brake lines should match up, parking brake is another story. Disk in the rear likely have to mess with proportioning valve but it's easy. Bleed brakes etc. Granted mines a tj but can't be much different.
BS... I've been beating the snot out of a d35 for 13 years now.... half that w 31's and half w 33's.. I have a 4.0 and op has a 2.5... Saying that it "will break" is unreasonable...
I broke 1 d35 by bending the housing somehow which made the ring a pinion fail, another d35 low speed crawling with a limited slip and 31's where the axle shaft popped and out came the axle, tire and the lot. My friend split the stock carrier in half on stock tires, my brother's broke by the pinion shearing, another friend had his spider gears break in a stock jeep, and I've seen countless broken shafts with the 2 4x4 clubs I've been in.
You seem to be the exception, and i hope it keeps going strong for you. I'm curious as to how yours has held up. Maybe not enough pressure on just one tire at a time which I think is what did mine in.
I would just like to put an 8.8 in so I can run 33s Or 35s and lockers in the future and it seems like a fun project and I don’t wheel that hard I don’t think it’s as weak as some say I have a coworker who has a lunch box locker in his an it’s got 31s been that way for 4 or 5 years like that but anyways I was looking up a parts list and it seems I would have to put it all together and get an sye and a custom drive shaft so all together I have so far as a list
8.8 axle
Brake lines?
Sye
Drive shaft
8.8 swap kit with pearches and all that
Will probably regear 4.88
Anything else ? For the 8.8
For the front I will put in better axle shafts
Lunchbox locker
And I heard that you can replace the passenger side axle shaft with a different style to by pass the 4wd actuator? Not sure if it’s just a simple shaft change and a blocker plate or if it would be a manual locking hub install
Also I see a lot of guys bending there own brake lines is that something required for the 8.8 or can I just buy pre bent hard lines
I have made a lot of changes to my YJ, First installed a Chevy Small block 350, built a little. Changed the split shaft on the passenger's side front axle with an XJ single axle shaft (There is a write up on here somewhere for that with parts list), still running D35 in back with no issues but I did do a Super 35 with a limited slip carrier. I beat the original D35 with the SBC and it did not break. I do not plan on banging rocks so it should not bend the axle housing. I did get a SYE kit from Rusty's Offroad including driveshaft, bolted right up and was not that expensive. They will help you get the correct drive shaft and they are wonderful people to work with. Oh and I run 35s with suspension and body lift.
I'm not an exception.... there are many out there that haven't broken....
I too have seen several that did break... almost always it's preventable....
Yes there are stronger diffs available but claiming it "will break" even w a 4 cyl wheeling lightly is crap....
Keep in mind I suggested leaving it open, limiting it to 33's, adding better (ie 1541h) shafts, and driving w sense....
The more of those you change the more likely it is to break...
I tend to agree with gottagofast on this subject, I've built 2 Super 35's running 33's one has more than 5 years of wheeling the other just a few months No issues what so ever. For a YJ you can find an early model D35 (before '90) without c-clips sometimes for free.
Drop in a locker of your choice and 30 spline 1541H axle shafts, you're good to go.
Op: If you wheel your rig you will love the 4:1 t case gears with a four banger and stick. Reverse will be very deep in failed hill climbs but manageable. Your thoughts of a true 44 front and 8.8 in back will be far stronger than a super 35 and 30 front. It costs a fair bit of money to build a front 44 to truly see it's benefits over a 30. If you need it or not is up to you. It all depends on how far you want to go in the end. Sounds like you want 35s. 44 front and 8.8 rear would be a great combo.
You can make a D35 last if you drive carefully and avoid shock loading. I did it for years on 33's and never broke a shaft but once i did break the carrier dumping the clutch on pavement. A friend of mine ran 33's on a 4 cyl TJ and constantly broke shafts but he never broke the carrier, He also broke D30 front shafts. The D35 axle housing has small diameter thin walled tubes and bends easy so if you keep it trussing it would help it. An 8.8 swap is your best bet for a cheap axle though i wouldent waste money on the 35 the ring and pinions are tiny as well as the tubes.
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