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Old 03-16-2018, 07:49 PM
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Mounting spare tire to floor with 3 point strap

I been wanting to do this for years and i finally am getting around to it. I bought a PRP 3 point tire strap with twisted hooks with straps that are 2" wide PRP part# H46.

I wasn't sure how this was all going to line up and where i would have to drill holes for D-rings to hook the hooks too. But after mocking them up i only have to drill 1 hole in the rear. The other 2 hooks fall perfectly where the inner roll bar bolts are located so i am going to use them for mounting the 2 front D-rings.

For the D-rings i am using some sold by a company called dccargomall on ebay. They are triangular so they should work nice with the hooks on the tire strap. And a pack of 4 is only $9.99 shipped and they use 3/8" bolts and the roll bar bolts are 3/8" so they should work perfect. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-Delta-...53.m2749.l2649

I have to pull the gas tank to drill the rear hole and reinforce it with a big fender washer to prevent it from pulling through the sheet metal. The hole also cant be drilled at the very back of the floor because there is a hollow section you can not access to put a nut on the back. So i am going to drill the hole from the bottom as far back as possible and hope it ends up in a good place.

I don't have the D-rings yet and the gas tank is full so i will have to run all the gas out before i drop the tank to get the rear D-ring in but i will update this when i get it done. I am pretty thrilled that this setup seems to be working out well and i have never seen anyone else mount a tire like this in a jeep so i thought id post my results with it.

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Old 03-18-2018, 03:42 PM   #2
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What made you want to locate the tire there? Apparently you don't need the room, but "what if"?
Were I to relocate my spare I would look into welding a set of bars across the back of the roll cage and mount it up and off the floor.
Just curious.

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Old 03-18-2018, 06:52 PM
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I have owned this jeep for 21 years and never used the rear for anything more than hauling dogs, guns or fishing poles. I used to have a back seat in it but it's to small to actually use so i took it out to shed some weight. So i just have a big empty floor doing nothing might as well mount a spare tire to it.

I am only going to throw the spare in the jeep when i go on a 4x4 trip that requires a long drive. The rest of the time im just going to pull the spare out and leave it in my garage so i can haul dogs, guns, fishing poles. This keeps the jeep lighter weight so i don't have to weld an extra 100+ pounds to the bumper for a swing out spare tire carrier and tire.
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Old 03-18-2018, 08:14 PM   #4
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Could you use the seat belt hole? It's already there, so no drilling. Considering it's for the seat belts, it should be secure. Keep us updated.
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:30 PM
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Could you use the seat belt hole? It's already there, so no drilling. Considering it's for the seat belts, it should be secure. Keep us updated.

No not with a 33" tire, the hole is under the tire unfortunately. I am going to drill the hole as far back as i can because i plan on going 35's in the future so i want as much room as possible. But if you go back to far you end up drilling a hole into a cavity then there is no way of putting a nut on the back side. I sat a bolt about where i think the hole will be after i drill it out from the bottom to give you an idea of where the d-ring will end up.
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:39 PM   #6
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:20 PM   #7
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Why not put the single hook to the front, say near the lip where the front floor goes up to meet the rear floor.
Then put eye bolts into each wheel well to attach the two straps. That should save dropping the tank.

I looked at a barn find this past week and the owner made sort of a trunk.
I might do it a bit differently, but I'm thinking store a spare tire under the shelf.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:38 PM
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Why not put the single hook to the front, say near the lip where the front floor goes up to meet the rear floor.
Then put eye bolts into each wheel well to attach the two straps. That should save dropping the tank.

I looked at a barn find this past week and the owner made sort of a trunk.
I might do it a bit differently, but I'm thinking store a spare tire under the shelf.

Good Luck, L.M.

The ratchet makes more sense mounted to the rear and thats the way they are intended to be mounted and easier to manipulate standing at the tail gate. And if i did it backwards i would have to drill 3 holes instead of one. I don't mind dropping the tank i have dropped gas tanks on YJ's so many times i could do it blind folded. And i have no rust to deal with and last time i had the tank off i replaced all of the bolts with stainless so i don't even have to fight corroded threads.

The 2 D rings in the front are going to be mounted under the factory roll bar mount bolts. It just makes more sense to do it this way so i don't mind dropping the tank.
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:05 PM
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Another thing i considered with this setup is mounting a rack above the tire either to the wheel wells or maybe the roll bar. That way i could tie down coolers off to the sides over the wheel wells to keep them from sliding around. If i used a rack that was as wide as the wheel wells it would make it easier to transport longer guns too. Because right now if i take anything longer than a 16" barreled AR15 wont fit sideways and you have to stick the barrels between the front seats. It would be kinda nice to not have to do that.

This rack is not as wide as i'd want it to be but the same idea
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:12 PM
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This would be ideal

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Old 03-19-2018, 09:31 AM   #11
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I used the seat brackets on the wheel wells...just a bungee cord across the tire. Never had a problem. 31" tire. Looks like you don't have the brackets anymore.
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agalloch07 View Post
This would be ideal

Yeah, that would be ideal for my way of travelling too.
Rather than buying something though, I'd probably make something out of wood. I'd build it so that it sat flush with the top of my rear wheelwells and attach some type of folding tie-down so that I could bungee a cooler, my recovery/tool box, long guns, range box or whatever gear I was planning to use on that particular trip. Then I could keep my spare secured under the shelf full time, rather than only when I went off roading.

This forum is great, We get a chance to share ideas with Jeepers from all across the country and several Jeepers from around the world.
Whooda thunk back when these YJs were new that we'd have this kind of technology available at our fingertips.
The WWW became commercially available in 1988. My YJs build date is 04/86.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:33 PM
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I got the D rings and mounted them on the roll bar bolts they work well and plenty big enough for the big hooks. I did some better measuring and cavity is not as wide as i thought it was so im going to move the hole back farther than i was planning after i run the gas out of it so i can drop the tank.

I am going to weld a 3/8" nut to a piece of 4x3" 3/16" plate steel. Then i am going to use some POR 15 patch in a tube to glue it to the bottom of the tub. So when i take the bolt out of the D-ring and roll monstaliner i wont have to deal with the plate falling off or a nut spinning. And since it's POR 15 i don't have to worry about the plate rusting up.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:36 AM   #14
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I like the lay flat idea since it puts it at lowest c/g possible. If you have body lift you could put in a pocket with a cross bar to latch onto and have nothing protruding above floor. In lieu of that, I'd take a short piece of 1/8th to 1/4 angle, drill a hole in it, weld a nut to it and weld it to the rear cross member and flush to the floor just about where you've got that set in last picture.

At line, anywhere from 2 to 10 spare tires come off rigs during the race--every race. from ratchet strap in jobs to bolt ins welded to sheet metal that tear off, a tire is a lot of weight and once something works a little loose it starts to go south at an exponential rate. there have been some close calls with spectators, but thankfully no one has gotten hurt by one. half the time the driver/co driver don't even know they've lost it.
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:10 PM   #15
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I used the seat brackets on the wheel wells...just a bungee cord across the tire. Never had a problem. 31" tire. Looks like you don't have the brackets anymore.
just using a bungee cord sounds very dangerous..in a crash, you could be wearing that tire

I'm using the Tuffy anchors and a SpeedStrap hold down strap in mine


I like the Tuffy achors because If I need the space in the back for carrying something large I can remove everything but the anchor bases by simply pushing a button and sliding the anchors out to give me a smooth surface




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Old 03-29-2018, 02:11 PM
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I like the lay flat idea since it puts it at lowest c/g possible. If you have body lift you could put in a pocket with a cross bar to latch onto and have nothing protruding above floor. In lieu of that, I'd take a short piece of 1/8th to 1/4 angle, drill a hole in it, weld a nut to it and weld it to the rear cross member and flush to the floor just about where you've got that set in last picture.

At line, anywhere from 2 to 10 spare tires come off rigs during the race--every race. from ratchet strap in jobs to bolt ins welded to sheet metal that tear off, a tire is a lot of weight and once something works a little loose it starts to go south at an exponential rate. there have been some close calls with spectators, but thankfully no one has gotten hurt by one. half the time the driver/co driver don't even know they've lost it.
I am going to use a piece of 2" wide 3/16" steel about 5-6" long and weld a 3/8" nut on the back and glue it to the underside of the tub with POR 15 patch. I wont be driving 90mph across the desert jumping it so I'm not worried about it coming loose. I would use something wider than 2" to spread weight out more but i am trying to keep the D-Ring back as far as possible so i can run a 35" tire when i upgrade my axles. And in that pic that tire is slid forward there is less room than it looks like in that picture.
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Old 03-29-2018, 02:52 PM   #17
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How bout just drilling a hole in your flat bar and using a rivnut...
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Old 03-29-2018, 03:20 PM
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How bout just drilling a hole in your flat bar and using a rivnut...

I bought a tube of por15 patch to seal up a small hole in the wheel well of my 4 Runner to keep it from rusting anymore and filling up with dirt and road salt. I am going to have half a tube left and they say it works really well for bonding all types of materials and is supposed to be really strong. And it will keep moisture from getting between the sheet metal and 3/16" plate so it will never become a rust problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrCIocuU5VE
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:28 PM   #19
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I can picture what you're doing now, that will be fine since the strap tension will be pulling the flat stock up against the tub. Initially mentally had it that you were relying on the patch to hold the tension. That stuff is really good for filling in rust pits and holes. did an article on it when it first came out, used it to make a really crusty old roadrunner rear look showroom.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:14 PM   #20
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My thought is to use your por-15 and a rivnut...

By the way most silicones in glues keep almost indefinitely if you put them in the freezer after opening...
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:33 PM
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A little bit of an update. I have been busy with other things but i finally got the gas tank off and a look at the underside of the tub. I thought i would have plenty of room to glue 2" wide plate but there is not. The underside of the tub has a big support running across the back. So i had to grind about 1/4" of metal off the plate and and make it about 1-3/4" wide so it will fit.



And this is the plate after grinding it down to 1-3/4"
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:02 PM
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Getting the location of the hole right on the bottom of the tub was a pain. I used the small pilot hole in the plate i lined it up with the mark i made. While drilling though i felt the plate walk a bit but i just kept going anyways. When i was done i had a face full of metal shavings and my eyes closed with safety glasses on of course.




When i was done somehow i had somehow completely missed the center line i had marked earlier. But since i had used a smaller bit i can make it up and re drill it on the front side and center it up.



But now i know where the hole will be i can hopefully get it centered and drill it out to 3/8" on the top side. I should have used a smaller drill bit to drill the pilot hole but i just grabbed a bit that was handy and i knew was sharp not thinking i would miss the center line by this much.

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Old 04-30-2018, 07:33 PM
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I got the nut welded on the reinforcement plate and the hole in the tub corrected and the tire mounted. It works great holds the tire nice and tight this thing ain't going anywhere.

For anyone interested in what the plate dimensions it's 3/16" plate 7" long and 1-3/4" wide with a 3/8" square nut.









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Old 05-01-2018, 02:56 PM
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I brushed POR15 patch on the plate and the body. Then ran a bead and pressed it onto the tub to get a good coverage kinda like thermal paste on a CPU. Then i took the remainder of por15 that was on my brush and covered the front side of the plate so it will never rust.

This little project is done im happy with it seems like it will work well for my needs.
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Old 05-02-2018, 06:32 PM   #25
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agalloch,
From the way I read your last post, POR15 patch is an awesome automotive adhesive. If I mis-read, please let me know. If I'm wrong and you don't point it out, I'm sure someone else will. LOL.
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Old 05-02-2018, 06:49 PM
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agalloch,
From the way I read your last post, POR15 patch is an awesome automotive adhesive. If I mis-read, please let me know. If I'm wrong and you don't point it out, I'm sure someone else will. LOL.

It's supposed to be a good adhesive this is the first time i have ever used POR15 patch but it seems like it glued this plate to my tub well. But this plate is wedged in there and tucked up under the factory floor support lip so it don't really want to twist much anyways. But i wanted it glued to the floor so i can take the bolt out and put a bedliner down sometime without having to drop the tank again and this stuff seems to be doing it's job. It has the consistency of roofing tar in a caulking tube it's thick stuff and somewhat hard to spread out with a paint brush.
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:19 PM   #27
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Ok, thanks. I am thinking about mounting some storage (possibly ammo cans) on my wheel wells but want the ability to unbolt and remove them, if necessary. This is one possible solution.

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