Newb Questions about RUST - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-22-2016, 08:29 PM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 118
Newb Questions about RUST

So I often hear that rust is like cancer. That no matter what you do, no matter how much you grind it off, where it starts it will return.

I thought that if you had a spot, sanded down to bare metal, applied paint or bed liner etc to encapsulate it, that if you could rob it of air and moisture it would not return.

Can some others here who have refurbished their YJ's chime in and share their wisdom about rust, how to stop it, what to do etc?

I took some doors to my local shop, there are some major rust spots, nothing eaten through, yet the shop owner said that because of the thinness of the sheet metal in the rusty spot, that there was no way to fix it, unless you could cut out the spot and weld in a new piece of sheet metal. Which he wouldn't recommend doing in my case. He said to return the doors back to eBay. Thoughts??

Is this a load, or is this correct?
I will post pics tomorrow
Thanks
Addison

Addisonbrady is offline   Quote
Old 07-22-2016, 10:13 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
MudMagnetYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,322
He is correct. I'll post a picture of a piece of metal I cut out of my frame. I cut it a few inches past where I thought the metal was good just to be sure.

However you need to be able to identify the different kinds of rust. If I buy brand new metal and leave it outside for a week, you're going to look at it and immediately think tetanus. That's just surface rust. The true cancerous rust actually EATS the metal and takes away from its thickness.

Part of my frame I actually cut with a chisel... It was that thin. You can only grind down so much rust until you find that it actually was rust that was holding the Jeep together.

This rust originally had no holes in it. In a matter of 6 months, it turned into this until I fixed it. Rust is like stupid, it can't be fixed. Just ground down, cut out, welded, and painted.


__________________
Build thread for OJ, my YJ. 1993 Wrangler S 2.5L/AX-5/NP231 with SYE, Spartan locked Dana 30/Aussie locked Ford 8.8 @ 4.88, SOA lift with 2.5" OME HD springs and front Bilstein/rear Rancho shocks, Barricade 9500 winch, custom front and rear bumpers, 136 amp alternator, 35" Super Swamper LTBs.
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty 7.3L Powerstroke, single turbo, 6 speed manual.
Jeep manuals!
MudMagnetYJ is offline   Quote
Old 07-22-2016, 10:24 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
ClarkGriswald's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 15
If you could chemically clean the metal like sandblasting or acid dipping and start there.. you can preserve steel. When sheet metal becomes so thin that its like swiss cheese, not so much although look to the folks that restore classic cars and need every molecule to remain intact.. and go to super extremes(and money). clean steel is clean steel. when you sand it you get the top layer off but still leave microscopic holes/dips full of iron oxide (rust). I am always amazed and frustrated at these car reality shows that supposedly restore cars and when I watch it I laugh and cry when I see what they leave behind.. In michigan that would rot out in one year.
If sheet metal on a car is so badly rusted that you cant cut back far enough to get to "good steel" you cant even get a good weld on it.. it just blows thru and your hacking at that point, that is why they need to cut back beyond where the rust is to get to good material. With that said its only steel, you can do anything but it depends on how far you want to go and rust repair/replace sucks. There are lots of alternatives to blasting. electrolysis, or soaking in water/mollassas ect. but you have to get to bare steel then either instantly stop the flash rust or deal with it later like conversion or zinc phosphate (metal ready from por15 ect). Zinc can be your friend (like galvanizing, or hot dip galvanizing whereas the zinc is like the sacrificial anode on an outboard boat motor to keep it from rotting away in the salt water).
So, its true to a point if you just grind rust off and try to recoate or treat it at that base level, it will for sure plague you again but it may be years or months. and it still does with the most advanced methods. its how far do you want to go for the longevity of the piece (VS. money/time) its just chemistry. look at those pickups that were galvanized and have no paint left but still look grey/silver and not rusty. look into the zinc based coatings for inside of frames. youll start to see what i mean. you get out of it what you put in..
__________________
Get a tetanus shot and jump in!!!
ClarkGriswald is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-24-2016, 09:40 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
MudMagnetYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,322
I hear zinc is used in many foreign countries as rust protection. The newer frame coatings that look like bedliner... Do those have zinc? They flake away so easily but it seems to always provide some protection.

Here is the picture of the steel I cut out. On the shiny metal, you can see it's a full 1/8" thick.



The classic car restorers Clark is talking about need to learn to repair a frame... With lots of effort, you can get an exact cut out of the frame and make a piece for it to weld in flush, grind down, and paint over. My frame piece I made was made of three pieces of steel cut, welded, and ground down to make it look like once solid piece.

If I put more effort into it and had a plasma cutter or a torch, I could make it look like the welds were never there.





This cardboard template is how I cut the steel and welded it together.

__________________
Build thread for OJ, my YJ. 1993 Wrangler S 2.5L/AX-5/NP231 with SYE, Spartan locked Dana 30/Aussie locked Ford 8.8 @ 4.88, SOA lift with 2.5" OME HD springs and front Bilstein/rear Rancho shocks, Barricade 9500 winch, custom front and rear bumpers, 136 amp alternator, 35" Super Swamper LTBs.
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty 7.3L Powerstroke, single turbo, 6 speed manual.
Jeep manuals!
MudMagnetYJ is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.