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Old 08-07-2011, 07:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Newly acquired 1990 YJ! Central NJ Advice?

Hi All,

First time Jeep owner and it's also been about 20 years since I've owned a car this old. I'll try and post a few pics when I can take them.

It's a 5 speed 6 cylinder. It's got a remanufactured Jasper in it with about 10k on the motor. There's 133k on the rest of the car.

The day I drove it some I got 2 issues. One, a thump noise when I roll. Two, a leaky wheel cylinder on the rear DS. Of course neither of these items were evident on my test drive (about 45 mins at all gears and reverse). This all showed up after signing the title and forking over cash. *sigh*

I got the wheel cylinder done and had it looked over. The mechanic diagnosed that I need a new u-joint on the front DS. That's my noise.

On the positive side, the softtop is basically a new Bestop. The PO took it off in the summer, used her garage in the rain. Never drove it in the winter. The sheet metal is great! There's minimal rust on the undersides. There's half steel doors with canvas uppers. It's a lot of fun to drive!

Slight occasional grind when trying reverse. Not worried.

I need to know if anyone has a Jeep Guy in central NJ. I am in Somerset County. The last fellow that looked it over for me was not a Jeep guy and didn't want to tackle the U-joint as he'd never done one and didn't want to break an important bolt or anything like that. Plus he was all the way up in Clifton in Passaic County.

So I need a guy in my area that knows Jeeps. I can only do so much wrenching myself and the U-joint is beyond me.

Thanks, all!
Scott Strungis
Somerset County NJ

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Old 08-13-2011, 09:44 PM   #2
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You can replace those u-joints yourself. Put in vise or hang over end of table. Take clips out. Take an extension with a socket the size of the u-joint. Pound out with a hammer. If you get a bad one that won.t come out I used a c-clamp or an arbor press. Clean inner surface with sand paper. When installing new u-joints make sure not to lose needle bearings. Put new clips in. u-joints must move freely after installation, if not the needle bearings may have gotton out of alignment.

I would also check clutch fluid and bleed system to get rid of grinding when shifting.

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Old 08-15-2011, 10:02 PM   #3
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you will appreciate nothing more than doing your own work. dont; be a wimp and fix it your self.listen to pvdurham and just do it! i can tell by listening to him he knows whats going on.
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:38 PM   #4
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I would be wary of a mechanic that was afraid to do a U joint. I did my friends YJ a few weeks ago and both sides took about 5 hours, including all the other "stuff" that comes up when ripping things apart. I don't have a press, so I bet a pro with more tools than I could do one in 2 hours or less.

'69 GTO drop top, have had for 7 years and done a full restoration on it.

1995 YJ, moss green with the 2.5/ax5 combo. 124K miles
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:25 AM   #5
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One way to stop the grinding when going into reverse is to shift in 2nd then into 4th then to reverse has worked every time for me.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:07 AM   #6

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As stated a u-joint replacement itself is easy. Getting to the u-joint is the hard part. I would also recommend you change the other u-joint. Here are two good sites with write ups on how to do work on your jeep. While it may not be the same year and model the basic's of how it all works is the same:
Jeep TJ Wrangler Web Site of Stu Olson - Jeep TJ Wrangler, JK, CJ and XJ Cherokee Write-Ups

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WranglerForum: Youtube Channel

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Old 10-05-2011, 04:10 PM
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Hi All,

Just an update to my YJ. Got many things fixed at a local shop. Two u-joints; one on the front DS and one at the t-case. One DS front wheel bearing. Rebuilt Weber carb. New oilpan gasket and plugs.

Now she runs well but the fuel gauge is wobbly. Hard to tell when to fill up. Right now there's about 150 on the odometer. I'm thinking I should top up tomorrow. Plus, it seems to stop the gas pump early. Last time I filled up it clicked at 9 gallons. That couldn't have been right so I topped up again and got another click at 12 gallons. I figured that was enough, so I stopped. Gauge read full at start. Now I'm at 150 miles and the needle wavers about 1/8 of a tank at idle. Raises a little upon accelleration and driving. Not sure what to make of my real mileage or what's left in the tank.

Any advice? I am happy to have a stable YJ but don't want to run out of gas.

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Old 10-05-2011, 09:20 PM   #8
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check mpg, then you'll know how far you can go on a full tank before refilling.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:31 PM   #9

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Congrats on your YJ, I hope you have a lot of fun with it!

I understand how you feel about doing the work yourself. Even though I've rebuilt engines and restored cars in the past, I ve gotten to the point where I like to tinker but I prefer to have professionals handle the real work.

Enjoy it !
"gryph...I have in the past mistaken you for a perverted I realize that I am not chitbag enough. You truly are a king among men.I am not worthy with such imagination." Series 3 Guy - LRO Site
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:00 PM
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Last tank I filled up with I got 12.5 mpg. 11 gallons went in and there was 150 miles on the odometer.

Lovely weather this week so I took off the top for a week. Most of the time it was a hard start in the morning. Only one day where the choke actually opened and the engine initially ran at high idle. Most days were 83 and sunny. Nights ran anywhere from 41 to 55 degrees.

Seems to still run rough at idle and upon cruising. This ticks me off as I spent about $250 on a carb rebuild.

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Old 10-14-2011, 10:30 AM   #11
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Congrats on the YJ. YJ's are pretty easy to work on. Try to get a factory service manual. It has helped me a lot in the past. If you are looking for a decent 4x4 shop try OK4wd in Stewartsville. I have heard good things about them. When I fill up once in awhile mine clicks off too, or the license plate retracts and the pump falls out and I get showered with gas. I can usually go about 225 miles on a tank, so when I get over 200 I start looking to fill up. I have a 95 with the 2.5l.

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