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Old 03-18-2018, 09:58 AM
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Smile Opinions? Tow schackles

I am going to start flat towing my jeep behind RV looking for advice from fellow members who have done this or are doing this now
I am going to use daystar towing schackles ( front springs)
Blue ox 10,000 pound towbar ( got good buy ) anything else I need

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Old 03-18-2018, 02:33 PM   #2
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A braking system for the jeep

Tow lights

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Old 03-18-2018, 03:12 PM   #3
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:57 PM
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Red face

Why do I need a braking sys on jeep motorhome can tow and stop with no problem checked with highway patrol( they said didn’t need independent braking system) jeep not heavy enough Highway patrol that I talked to was a jeeper and flat tows his jeep
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:12 PM   #5
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California requires trailer brakes.....

Common sense requires the same.... Imagine watching your jeep baha across the median and plow into an oncoming family and knowing you could have prevented it....
Accidents happen.... do what you can to preserve lives.

https://rvibrake.com/pages/towing-law

.

.
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:44 PM   #6
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Check your state laws. Florida and Georgia don't require brakes unless the towed vehicle is over 3000 lbs, NC is 4000 lbs. Also, remember you have several components in the tow system and the weakest component is your limit. Your tow bar has a 10000 lb rating, but what about the shackles or the shackle bolts?
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:30 PM   #7
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I have the Daystar tow shackles but I haven't used them yet. I've towed the Jeep once, but that was before I bought the shackles.

I bought a set of Harbor freight tow lights and the magnets don't hold the lights to the bumper. Buy a better set of tow lights.
A safety chain from the TV to the toad is probably required in all states.

An electric braking system might not be required by law, but it would sure add to my sense of security. I have a 7700 series F-150 and the brakes on it worked well for the one time I towed the Jeep to and from the media blasters (with no electric brake on the toad.

Good luck, L.M.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:53 AM   #8
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This is what I used to connect the safety chains to the Jeep. There is a slot on the frame about a foot behind the bumper. Perfect fit.
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:10 PM   #9
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I've towed mine behind my truck (Ram 2500 4x4) with the Harbor Freight tow bar, and it worked fine. Of course, it would have been better to have brakes, but my truck stopped the load fine. I actually passed the safety chain THROUGH the frame, looped it and used threaded links to attach because I didn't have anything to connect the chain TO the frame. I also ran the chain directly to the truck, bypassing the tow bar completely.

For brake lights, I used the magnetic ones, and other than finding a place to stick them, they worked fine. I had a hard time because of my tire carrier, but I got it worked out eventually. I ran the wire up through the back window, out the pass-side door-skin, into the engine bay and out through the front grill into my truck. I was careful to avoid any moving parts.

Eventually, I will get tow shackles like Luckymac's, but I just haven't gotten there yet.

I don't do this very often, and not for long distances. If I were doing it on the back of my motorhome, or doing this all the time, I would have better safety chain connections, brakes, and I would tap into the lights inside the driver's side rocker panel.
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarhead Al View Post
This is what I used to connect the safety chains to the Jeep. There is a slot on the frame about a foot behind the bumper. Perfect fit.
Al PLEASE change your safety chain connection.... those t hooks are ok for chains under constant tension but for a loose safety chain they COULD come unhooked.
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:12 PM   #11
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In a different YJ tow thread, one poster told how he ran a 4 wire tow wire loom back from the TV, through the drivers door opening into connections that he added to the back wiring loom (just under the inside of the door opening. Then rather than using magnetic lights, he was able to use the taillights of the Jeep.

I thought this was really clever. If I have to tow my Jeep again, I'll make this type of wire connection.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
Al PLEASE change your safety chain connection.... those t hooks are ok for chains under constant tension but for a loose safety chain they COULD come unhooked.
I think this is unlikely, since that T-Hook must be keyed, and then rotated into that slot in the frame. The fit through that slot in the frame is VERY close as well.

Not saying it can't happen. Anything can happen. But it seems quite unlikely that it would just fall out under normal usage.
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Old 03-19-2018, 03:29 PM   #13
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I use the same hook as jarhead al.
There are two sets of chains, front and rear.
Front chains have mucho slack for turns.
Rear chains with the frame hook have no slack, as zero slack is needed in the application.
They were measured are drawn to the last link and only allow a quarter rotation for fitment.
My rear chains cannot be removed until I lower the hitch.
The rear chains don't have load but are within an inch or two of taking the load with failure.

I have much more confidence in my rear chains than the droopy fronts.
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Old 03-19-2018, 05:12 PM   #14
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Raoul, does your tow bar resemble this one that has two sets of chain attachment points?
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Old 03-19-2018, 05:30 PM   #15
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Very similar.
One difference is mine has linch pins instead of bolts where the bar connects to the bracket.
That's how I can get minimal slack on the rear chains.
Set the chain, then insert the pin = minimal slack.

Rear chains are very short.
You don't want the rear chains doing the towing but, there is no reason to have extra links.
In the front extra links = Good.
In the rear extra links = Bad.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:38 PM   #16
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If your tow bar fails causing the need of your safety chains then all of your short can't come out theory goes out the window....

If it is unlikely that they would come out then it is FAR from acceptable.... we aren't playing russian roulette... it needs to be IMPOSSIBLE for them to come out and it certainly is not....

Years ago I had a tow bar just like that fail and you wouldn't believe how much the jeep danced around behind me.... my chains held up and nobody was hurt and besides some trashed bumpers and my tow bar busted in 4 or 5 places and otherwise mangled there was no major damage....
I ran long chains.... they were bolted to the jeep frame and attached to both loops on the tow bar w no slack between and finally to the chain plates on the back of my rv with threaded split links tightened with a wrench.....
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
In a different YJ tow thread, one poster told how he ran a 4 wire tow wire loom back from the TV, through the drivers door opening into connections that he added to the back wiring loom (just under the inside of the door opening. Then rather than using magnetic lights, he was able to use the taillights of the Jeep.

I thought this was really clever. If I have to tow my Jeep again, I'll make this type of wire connection.

Good Luck, L.M.
That would be me....
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TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:09 PM   #18
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If your tow bar fails causing the need of your safety chains then all of your short can't come out theory goes out the window....

If it is unlikely that they would come out then it is FAR from acceptable.... we aren't playing russian roulette... it needs to be IMPOSSIBLE for them to come out and it certainly is not....

Years ago I had a tow bar just like that fail and you wouldn't believe how much the jeep danced around behind me.... my chains held up and nobody was hurt and besides some trashed bumpers and my tow bar busted in 4 or 5 places and otherwise mangled there was no major damage....
I ran long chains.... they were bolted to the jeep frame and attached to both loops on the tow bar w no slack between and finally to the chain plates on the back of my rv with threaded split links tightened with a wrench.....
I see your point. But remember that most safety chains are attached with simple S-hooks. How many of them come undone on their own? I've towed dozens of trailers thousands of miles with safety chains on S-hooks (which are less secure than T-hooks), and I've never seen it happen, nor have I heard of it happening to someone else.

Would a threaded link work better? Perhaps. If you have the appropriate attachment point and can do that, that's great. The gear previously mentioned is being deployed as it is designed. Without lifting rearward and rotating the T-hook, it's not coming out of that slot. Especially if slack is removed from the connection point, and/or the weight of the chain itself is holding the hook into the opening.

Remember, anything can happen, but that doesn't mean it will. You can be struck by lightning walking down the street; that's a risk. You could be hit by a bus walking down the street; yet another risk. Getting out of bed in the morning and taking your first breath is a risk. I wouldn't call any of those things "Russian roulette".

Your own experience is a good reason why I don't attach my chains to the tow-bar attachment points. What if the bar (or some part of it) breaks? If my chain is hooked to the bar, then it becomes only so much extra weight on an out of control vehicle. Connecting the chain directly from my truck to the frame of the Jeep creates a redundancy in connection. If anything happens to that tow bar, the chains are completely independent and will keep the Jeep behind me, where it belongs.

FWIW, I still pass my chains through my Jeep frame and loop them using threaded links, and I intend to continue that practice. At first it was because I couldn't find T-hooks. But now it's because I feel better about the stability of that connection in the event of disaster.
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:01 PM   #19
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When I first joined an offroad club I carried one of those t hooks for the required recovery point... i used it several times without issue... then one day I got myself into a particularly precarious situation and had to be winched into and through a much worse situation... once on solid ground I pulled ahead and got out to unhook only to fund the t hook had fallen out..... really scary.... it didn't come out while winching but if it had I might not be here today.....

I still use them for my trailer tie downs but nowhere else....

As far as s hooks I have seen them come unhooked more than once although I agree that it is rare...
I personally don't use them.

To be clear here I'm not calling anyone a killer here, just trying to encourage folks to take VERY easy steps to become much safer.
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:10 PM   #20
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Your own experience is a good reason why I don't attach my chains to the tow-bar attachment points. What if the bar (or some part of it) breaks? If my chain is hooked to the bar, then it becomes only so much extra weight on an out of control vehicle. Connecting the chain directly from my truck to the frame of the Jeep creates a redundancy in connection. If anything happens to that tow bar, the chains are completely independent and will keep the Jeep behind me, where it belongs......
I will quick connect my four chains, effectively creating two full length redundant chains.
Not because of none of you.
It occurred to me that my daddy wore a belt and suspenders, so I'll do it for him.
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:32 PM   #21
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I tow my YJ a couple of thousand miles per summer using tow shackles and a Harbor Freight tow bar. Works great, traveling down out of the Rockies or Big Horns it's always tracked true. Biggest thing is to check tow laws regarding brakes (sounds like you have) and keep the bar as level as possible.

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Old 03-20-2018, 04:35 PM   #22
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I don't use S-hooks any more either. If I use a hook at all, it has a gate (in good repair). Given your experience, I'm even less likely to use a T-hook. No sense in wasting my money...

I always have worn a belt. In my old age, I find myself adding the suspenders more and more. Maybe that's how I got old. Or maybe I was just lucky... For all the stupid things I've done in my life, I think I've been pretty lucky. But one day that'll run out and I hope I've got those suspenders on! Nobody wants to see that!
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:11 PM   #23
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Figuratively I am and always have been a belt and suspenders kind of guy...

Literally I am still struggling with my belt and absolutely refuse to wear the suspenders... So I'm constantly pulling my pants up... I'm not getting old, just further into denial!
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:17 PM   #24
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Quick tip.... If you cut 2 or 3 links off a safety chain and bolt one to the frame w a heavy (1/8"+) washer you have 1 or 2 links hanging down to hooked your threaded link to.... that's how I had my h/f (or curt) style towbar set up...
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:54 AM   #25
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I followed Gottagofast's idea. Any thoughts, comments or concerns?
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:53 PM   #26
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Looks good al...
I used a different type of connector..... mine was a little faster to use but yours may be a little more secure...
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TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:26 PM   #27
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I looked at those quick links, but the one that would fit my chain was rather weak. The chain, clevis to connect the chain both have a 3900 lb rating. The shear rating on the bolt was nearly twice that.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:22 PM   #28
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Makes sense... either way, as with any safety chains, hopefully you'll never have to use em.... I hope I never do again!
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:46 PM   #29
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I agree. Safety chains are like life insurance... You have to have them but you never want to use them

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