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Old 06-14-2018, 08:52 PM
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Outta the blue

Jeeps been running good here lately An then I change the oil An fuel filter An it barely runs at all wont idle with out keepin my foot on the pedal has no power at all spark plugs a coal black any ideas.

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Old 06-14-2018, 09:10 PM   #2
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stuck float

Good Luck, L.M.

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Old 06-14-2018, 09:13 PM   #3
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I might be able to suggest more, but I can't find batteries for my crystal ball.

What engine do you have? I can only guess that from your handle that you're Jeep is a 1989 or a 1990. Automatic or standard shift?

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-15-2018, 03:55 AM   #4
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If the spark plugs are sooty black, then I'd agree with Luckymac's call of a stuck float, or something similar that is causing an overly rich condition.

But again, without more info on the vehicle in question, we can't do much but guess.
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Old 06-15-2018, 12:51 PM   #5
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how long running to soot the plugs?

could you have overfilled the oil? a rich condition just all of a sudden out of the blue seems suspect. over filling with oil will cause oil to burn off in the cylinder and soot up plugs quickly. a rich AF will take a bit of run time to really soot/foul plugs.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
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how long running to soot the plugs?

could you have overfilled the oil? a rich condition just all of a sudden out of the blue seems suspect. over filling with oil will cause oil to burn off in the cylinder and soot up plugs quickly. a rich AF will take a bit of run time to really soot/foul plugs.
Overfilling with oil generally leads to the crank aerating the oil, causing it to foam. The oil pump can't pump oil foam, so what you end up with is a loss of oil pressure and a host of other bad things, not oil being burned in the cylinder (unless the piston rings or valve seals are shot, which is another problem entirely).

The OP stated that the Jeep wouldn't "idle without keeping his foot in it", in other words, having the throttle wide open. To me, that sounds like a stuck float. Fuel is being dumped through the carb, and the only way to compensate for that is to hold the throttle open. Running an engine like that - under load and struggling against a way too rich mix, which is igniting but not burning completely - will soot plugs up in a few minutes.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:38 PM   #7
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Use a screwdriver handle or Allen wrench with a plastic handle & give the float bowl a few smacks. 9 out of 10 times it'll free up a stuck float (not always & it can be only temporary). So you'll know if that's your possible issue or not.
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:46 PM
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Sorry guys thought my sig was filled out it’s a 90 with the 4.2L auto with a Weber 32/36 carb

I replaced the plugs An with in 10 min they are black
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Old 06-18-2018, 02:18 PM   #9
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Quadratec sells a Weber manual and I guess it has all the information you'll need to overhaul your carb.
A parts store rebuild kit will probably have the same information.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-18-2018, 04:37 PM
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The carbs less than 6 months old

Did a compression test
Cyl1 -125 psi
Cyl2-120 psi
Cyl3-120 psi
Cyl4-130 psi
Cyl5-135psi
Cyl6-110 psi
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Old 06-18-2018, 05:36 PM   #11
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89jeep90, you have more than the recommended variation in compression between cylinders but I doubt that's what causing you plugs to soot up. As far as the oil change, coincidences are call that because that's what they are....co-incidents. I doubt that the oil change contributed to plug sooting unless you used something other than a quality motor oil. I've hear of using castor oil in race engines, but that's probably just scuttlebutt.

Could it be possible that some unknown substance or crud could have been introduced into your fuel system that might have caused the float to stick?
Have you tried tapping on the carb as ZombiePopper suggests?
Perhaps if you disconnect your fuel line from the carb and remove and examine/clean your needle & seat you might cure the problem.

How is your fuel filter set up? Your problem might be obscure, like a plugged return line to the tank. Not knowing exactly how your fuel feed and vent is set up that's just a guess.

If you search Google or UTUBE you might find related Weber recommendations.

I have a Carter carb, so that's about the best I can come up with.
Many Jeepers run the Weber, but not everyone checks this forum daily. If you can keep working away with the offered suggestions, perhaps a knowledgeable Weber user will chime in with a cure.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89jeep90 View Post
The carbs less than 6 months old

Did a compression test
Cyl1 -125 psi
Cyl2-120 psi
Cyl3-120 psi
Cyl4-130 psi
Cyl5-135psi
Cyl6-110 psi
Awfully low in my humble opinion. I may be saying what you already know, but pick a cylinder, do the test (should be a warm engine), then put a couple'a squirts of oil in the spark plug hole and do it again. If it goes up, you're rings are worn.
Then again I've never owned a 4.2 and maybe they're supposed to be that low.
Anybody know off the top of their head?
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:27 PM   #13
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Well did some digging around and "they" say your motor should run 150, but can run as low as 120 and still OK.
One recommendation I read, for when one or two cylinders are low, particularly the end two (1 and 6) is to retorque the head just in case.
I'm shooting in the dark here, so don't hold me to any of this.
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:38 PM
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I’m sanding down the points in my distributor cab they were pretty black to see if this helps with the problem An gonna clean out the carb tomorrow

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