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Old 06-27-2019, 07:44 AM
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Pulled the trigger on a new YJ

So having been the owner of two TJs in the past I just recently bought an 89 YJ this weekend. I *love* this thing

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Old 06-27-2019, 07:49 AM
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Two pressing matters atm. Gauges don’t work (tach and speedo do) so given the age im thinking of a new circuit board for that along with a change in gearing at a later date.

I *think* it’s currently at 3.23 gearing. I’m not sure if I should go with 3.73 or 4.10 gearing. 33” tires 4.2 engine, 5 speed manual with what appear to be stock differentials
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:19 AM   #3
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Congrats! You should well be able to see where you're going at night!!!
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:10 AM   #4
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With 33's I would do 4.56
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'94 YJ 5sp 4.10, Super 35, HP30 w/Aussie, sitting on 33's, RE chromo drag link, 9500 Lb winch, 4" lift, 4x4 Posi Lock, it's a resto-mod in progress.
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:16 AM   #5
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Looks nice and shiny!
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:43 PM
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I’m gearing for highway use so I think 4.56 may be a little high for my liking
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:45 PM   #7
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pretty clean 30 year old. how many miles?
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Old 06-27-2019, 04:01 PM
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pretty clean 30 year old. how many miles?
120k. However With the large tires it’s probably around 130-140
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Old 06-27-2019, 04:45 PM   #9
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4.10's and 33's worked well when i ran them and i got pretty good gas mileage. I am running 35's and 4.88's now and my gas mileage was cut in half and i hardly ever drive it anymore because of it. I miss my stock axles
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Old 06-27-2019, 04:54 PM   #10
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pretty clean 30 year old. how many miles?
120k. However With the large tires it’s probably around 130-140
Wow! Good buy sir. You have me beat on the low mile survivor. Mine shows 115k on 33s but it's a 92. Very hard to keep them miles down because you always want drive it.
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:25 PM   #11
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That is very clean looking. Very nice find.
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:26 PM   #12
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That is a clean looking yj! Good buy for sure
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:05 PM   #13
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120k. However With the large tires it’s probably around 130-140
Speedo gears are a piece of cake to swap out. If the PO replaced it to correct the speedometer you may really only have 120k. You can download a gps app for your phone to check against your speedo.

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Old 06-28-2019, 09:51 AM   #14
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Gauge problems are pretty common. Sometimes you can pull the gauge cluster out and just clean up the printed circuit board with some scotchbrite. There might be a sticky on that. If not a search should show some write ups.

You would have 3.07 gears. Yj's with 4 cylinders came with 4.10 gears. If you could find a set of those to swap in it could save a bunch of money compared to a regear. Ideally you would want a front YJ axle with 4.10's and a Ford 8.8 rear out of an explorer with the same 4.10's. All factory options and reasonably inexpensive.

Congrats on the new Jeep. It looks to be in real nice shape.
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Old 06-28-2019, 12:13 PM
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Gauge problems are pretty common. Sometimes you can pull the gauge cluster out and just clean up the printed circuit board with some scotchbrite. There might be a sticky on that. If not a search should show some write ups.

You would have 3.07 gears. Yj's with 4 cylinders came with 4.10 gears. If you could find a set of those to swap in it could save a bunch of money compared to a regear. Ideally you would want a front YJ axle with 4.10's and a Ford 8.8 rear out of an explorer with the same 4.10's. All factory options and reasonably inexpensive.

Congrats on the new Jeep. It looks to be in real nice shape.
Thank you. I checked he differential and sure enough, 3.07.

Question is now- how difficult is it to swap the axle? Is that a speciality job or?
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Old 06-28-2019, 01:35 PM   #16
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Question is now- how difficult is it to swap the axle? Is that a speciality job or?
To swap the complete axle assembly it is pretty straight forward. Unhook the brake lines, drive shaft, shocks, 4wd assembly plug, and U bolts. Remove axle and put in the new one. hook everything back up and bleed the brakes. There are plenty of wright ups on an 8.8 swap. That will require a little welding.
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:58 PM   #17
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Make sure you change both axles at the same time. The front and rear axle ratios MUST match or you'll grenade your transfer case the first time you release the clutch with the Jeep in gear and the engine running.
If you absolutely must drive with only the rear replaced, remove the front driveshaft until you have proper gearing in both axles.

The best setup is the Ford 8.8 in 4:10 for the rear and a 4 cyl front axle. Close second for highway and easy off roading is both axles from a 4 cyl YJ
Don't rely on the axle tags. Pull the covers and look at the stampings on the ring gear.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:36 PM
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I wasted the whole day driving around looking for ammo cans for my wheel wells. Guy on the phone was too lazy to check and assumed he had stuff he didn’t...

I think Sunday the goal is to pry apart the dash and troubleshoot that electrical system. None of the gauges work (speedo and tach do however) and after swapping a fuse the voltage and fuel gauge seem to work somewhat- how accurately I don’t know.

There’s got to be a few poor connections going on in here. It’s a 30 yr old Jeep. I’d like to get that licked. Hoping for the best
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Old 06-30-2019, 07:34 PM   #19
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^ Time and patience, hardly anything worked on mine when I got it, but a few hours cleaning connections, checking grounds and a few new fuses and everything works now, without having to source replacement parts. Don't forget to check your connections at the other end of the wires under the hood. Sensor connections get loose, grimy and corroded. read a couple dozen assorted electrical posts and you'll find more often than not it's a loose or corroded connection. In my world I'd rather fix the wiring before replacing a part and still having to come back to the wiring.
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Old 07-01-2019, 06:24 AM
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^ Time and patience, hardly anything worked on mine when I got it, but a few hours cleaning connections, checking grounds and a few new fuses and everything works now, without having to source replacement parts. Don't forget to check your connections at the other end of the wires under the hood. Sensor connections get loose, grimy and corroded. read a couple dozen assorted electrical posts and you'll find more often than not it's a loose or corroded connection. In my world I'd rather fix the wiring before replacing a part and still having to come back to the wiring.
Very true. Problem is I can’t read the electrical diagram or figure where any of these wires go. I’ve git a Haynes manual and it seems a little lacking.

Nonetheless I fried pieces of the circuit board. I suppose I could bridge the gap with another piece of wire before buying a new board/gauges but how do I ascertain if the gauges themselves are bad and need replacement? For example I had continuity on things like fuel gauge and battery but not clock and temp to the wiring harness- are the wires attached to the harness supposed to detach? They don’t feel like they do.

I can’t find much when I search for gauges on the forum other than recommendations on new ones. Are there any proper electrical schematics you can suggest? As I said the Haynes is kinda shit- I don’t think there’s even anything in there for the gauges and their connections for the yj.
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:23 AM   #21
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First, At the bottom of my post there is a Dropbox link for Factory Service Manuals in pdf, click on the 89 FSM and you'll find all your wiring diagrams towards the end.

If you've really "Fried" the circuit board, it's really a Circuit Ribbon that you can get a replacement for. Many folks can just clean them up with cleaner, check connections, with good results.

As far as the gauges go, you have options, Replace a single stock gauge, replace all the gauges in stock bezel, or go full Auto Meter, MTS or Gauge works assembly, in their bezels. Really up to you depending on how much you want to spend. They make plug and play setups for around $200 plus or minus.

It will only cost you time to check your wiring and work on it, plus you will learn a lot about what goes on behind the dash, before you break out your wallet.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:00 AM
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First, At the bottom of my post there is a Dropbox link for Factory Service Manuals in pdf, click on the 89 FSM and you'll find all your wiring diagrams towards the end.

If you've really "Fried" the circuit board, it's really a Circuit Ribbon that you can get a replacement for. Many folks can just clean them up with cleaner, check connections, with good results.

As far as the gauges go, you have options, Replace a single stock gauge, replace all the gauges in stock bezel, or go full Auto Meter, MTS or Gauge works assembly, in their bezels. Really up to you depending on how much you want to spend. They make plug and play setups for around $200 plus or minus.

It will only cost you time to check your wiring and work on it, plus you will learn a lot about what goes on behind the dash, before you break out your wallet.
Awesome- Im going to try that. Currently voltage and fuel gauge work but oil pressure clock and engine temp do not. In regards to frying it I did exactly that when I removed it. I hooked one of the gauges up to a power source and the wires on the circuit board melted. Wasnt working anyways...🤷*♂️

Theres a couple of other lights not working, like 4wd and emergency brake only comes up on the moment it starts up. There *is* and aftermarket stereo in there so Im thinking that may have something to do with it.

Im going to take a look at that fsm and see where things go from that harness. Thanks again, and hopefully Ill be able to give an update with working gauges
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:59 AM   #23
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Here is the ribbon you are looking for. It is probably available for a little less from another vendor, But if you scroll down you can find an MTS plug and play with all new gauges (except no clock). Works out a little cheaper than buying ribbon and gauges individually, I personally like the fact that I still have all stock gauges with a functional analog clock. It's my Timex, Takes a licking and keeps on ticking. LOL Also lets me know I have power to the cab. Double LOL

Make sure when shopping for electrical that you verify it's really for an 87-91. 91 and on had fuel injection with the 4wd light on the gauge panel rather than the speedo panel so the ribbon is different.
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Old 07-01-2019, 09:11 AM   #24
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Just looking back at your pics. I would be rethinking the wiring on all those LED Lights bars, if the PO tapped into the harness and other accessories rather than running a dedicated circuit you may have the source of current and future electrical issues.
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FSM Manuals https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0vfmk6jc5...v7lceZk7a?dl=0
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Old 07-02-2019, 06:15 PM   #25
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I have a gauge cluster from a '93, plus a whole bunch of other stuff. You can have it for $10 plus shipping. I'm in Delaware, so not too far away. Let me know.
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Old 07-02-2019, 08:04 PM
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I have a gauge cluster from a '93, plus a whole bunch of other stuff. You can have it for $10 plus shipping. I'm in Delaware, so not too far away. Let me know.
I don't think they're compatible with the 89, no? I thought 87-91 and 91-95 were different electrical components. That 93 should have the 4wd light on the dash yes? Mine is above the steering wheel- and also doesn't illuminate
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Old 07-03-2019, 03:00 AM   #27
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The gauges will interchange, except for the 4wd light, but the circuit board wont work for you. The difference is that they deleted the clock for the 4wd light.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:29 AM
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Took a trip to the shore today...

Anyone else getting 10 mpg?

....😲
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:25 AM   #29
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Consider yourself lucky if youre in the double digits. I was able to get 14 to 15 when I had a longer commute with less stops, but Im almost always hovering around 10 in the city, and thats with the upgraded ignition system and what I think is a properly tuned carb.


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Old 07-04-2019, 09:44 AM
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Consider yourself lucky if youre in the double digits. I was able to get 14 to 15 when I had a longer commute with less stops, but Im almost always hovering around 10 in the city, and thats with the upgraded ignition system and what I think is a properly tuned carb.


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My wife complains of a gas smell in the car. With that low mileage Im contemplating an A/F meter to check the status of the carb. It would seem Ive got a small list of things Im looking to address

-gauge cluster power
-speedo trip meter
-cigarette lighter or two.
-A/F meter to possibly rejet carb
-AC kit
-differential gear change (axle swap for cheap?)
-windshield
-rear brakes
-lock mechanism for hard doors


Im trying to get my read on with the electrical aspect of things. Its by far my weak point. Nonetheless Im eager to dive into this.

In the meantime, any other things that may be contributing to poor mileage? Tire size? Differential gearing? Would changing the gearing have any affect on mileage (assuming same driving habits) or would it be negligible?

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