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Old 10-14-2018, 06:32 PM
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Remedy for bolt too tight/loose

Ok so i removed a few bolts to put on a light bar. One bolt was really loose after taking out and another i couldn’t even get back in the rest of the way. Any tricks?

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Old 10-14-2018, 06:48 PM   #2
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Did you try swapping them? Might be different sizes - maybe PO stripped one or something similar.
Next step might be to run a tap through to clean up the threads.
Might try buying two new bolts.
Beyond that you may be in for some drilling/tapping or heil-coils.

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Old 10-14-2018, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 283 YJ View Post
Did you try swapping them? Might be different sizes - maybe PO stripped one or something similar.
Next step might be to run a tap through to clean up the threads.
Might try buying two new bolts.
Beyond that you may be in for some drilling/tapping or heil-coils.
i did try different bolts. Not sure how to run a tap through, guess i have some googling in my future Thanks
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Old 10-15-2018, 12:57 PM   #4
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I'd buy a package of new bolts. Quadratec has a pack of 16 windshield bolts for $22.00. If you buy them individually they're $1.50 each. They're the same bolts as many places elsewhere on the Jeep.
If I remember correctly, the threads are 1/4-20. Start with spraying a shot of oil in the open bolt hole. Then start the tap by hand to insure you're following the original threads.
Put the turning tool on shank of the tap and turn the tap 1/2 a turn in. Then back it out 1/4 turn. Turn it in 1/2 a turn and then back it out a 1/4 turn. Give the hole a shot of oil and keep turning in 1/2 turn and out 1/4 turn until the tap is about half way into the hole. There's a void behind the blind nut that you're tapping so it's unlikely you will find the bottom of the hole. You need to keep spraying oil in the hole to keep the tap lubed and to wash out the metal chips.

What happens by backing the tap out 1/4 turn for every half turn in is that when you back the tap out, you break off the bits of metal that the tap is cutting and then the oil can flush them out.

What you'll be doing is "chasing" the original threads, rather than actually cutting new threads. It's easier to chase the original threads than cut new threads, but the process is the same.

UTUBE might have a video or two.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
I'd buy a package of new bolts. Quadratec has a pack of 16 windshield bolts for $22.00. If you buy them individually they're $1.50 each. They're the same bolts as many places elsewhere on the Jeep.
If I remember correctly, the threads are 1/4-20. Start with spraying a shot of oil in the open bolt hole. Then start the tap by hand to insure you're following the original threads.
Put the turning tool on shank of the tap and turn the tap 1/2 a turn in. Then back it out 1/4 turn. Turn it in 1/2 a turn and then back it out a 1/4 turn. Give the hole a shot of oil and keep turning in 1/2 turn and out 1/4 turn until the tap is about half way into the hole. There's a void behind the blind nut that you're tapping so it's unlikely you will find the bottom of the hole. You need to keep spraying oil in the hole to keep the tap lubed and to wash out the metal chips.

What happens by backing the tap out 1/4 turn for every half turn in is that when you back the tap out, you break off the bits of metal that the tap is cutting and then the oil can flush them out.

What you'll be doing is "chasing" the original threads, rather than actually cutting new threads. It's easier to chase the original threads than cut new threads, but the process is the same.

UTUBE might have a video or two.

Good Luck, L.M.
Thank you!
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:09 AM   #6
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I don’t use the hand tap, I use a Makita cordless. You run the risk of breaking the tap, but if done correctly, is much faster and a lot straighter thread.

1)set your drill to highest torque setting (it spins the fastest).
2) set your clutch to a low setting. For thin wall steel like this, I would start at 7ish.

Put the tap in the drill. Dip the tip in cutting oil. Start the tap into the hole. When you drill, the tap will cut and the clutch will stop the drill from turning when it feels resistance. If it cut, reverse the bit to release and drop the shavings. Then continue your forward cut, then reverse again, release the shavings, then forward cut, etc.
If it does not cut at all, increase the clutch number up one until it cuts.

Your main focus is to keep the drill and tap aligned so your threads are correct.

If you need to rethread to a bigger thread, make sure that you are not purchasing a “bottom tap”.

Also, if needing to go bigger, buy an “under cut” counter sunk head. Under cut will spread the “footprint” of the holding strength to the larger area of the head instead of the base where it is smaller.
You may need to counter sink it to make it flush. I would get a single flute style for steel. It makes a super clean cut when using less pressure in a hand operated drill. The multi flutes will “wobble” the cut.

Practice all of this on a piece of scrap before trying on your Jeep. Super easy.
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JonStevens View Post
I don’t use the hand tap, I use a Makita cordless. You run the risk of breaking the tap, but if done correctly, is much faster and a lot straighter thread.

1)set your drill to highest torque setting (it spins the fastest).
2) set your clutch to a low setting. For thin wall steel like this, I would start at 7ish.

Put the tap in the drill. Dip the tip in cutting oil. Start the tap into the hole. When you drill, the tap will cut and the clutch will stop the drill from turning when it feels resistance. If it cut, reverse the bit to release and drop the shavings. Then continue your forward cut, then reverse again, release the shavings, then forward cut, etc.
If it does not cut at all, increase the clutch number up one until it cuts.

Your main focus is to keep the drill and tap aligned so your threads are correct.

If you need to rethread to a bigger thread, make sure that you are not purchasing a “bottom tap”.

Also, if needing to go bigger, buy an “under cut” counter sunk head. Under cut will spread the “footprint” of the holding strength to the larger area of the head instead of the base where it is smaller.
You may need to counter sink it to make it flush. I would get a single flute style for steel. It makes a super clean cut when using less pressure in a hand operated drill. The multi flutes will “wobble” the cut.

Practice all of this on a piece of scrap before trying on your Jeep. Super easy.
. Thanks. It’s sounds like i could mess it up so i think i will definitely Practice first! Thank you

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