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Old 11-26-2017, 05:40 PM
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Removing a tall lift for shorter.

Hi folks. I bought a 95 YJ that is in spectacular shape. No rust whatsoever and it runs like a top. She's currently sitting on a Rough Country 4 inch lift with 33's.

Really...my YJ in its current form is overkill. It's too tall for my needs so I want to replace the Rough Country springs with Old Man Emu 2.5 inch springs. 5100 Bilsteins will replace my current shocks.

However... I'm wondering if there is a benefit to replacing the shackles with boomerang shackles. Any thoughts?

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Old 11-26-2017, 09:28 PM   #2
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Booms were originally designed to prevent spring inversion on the front and aren't really necessary on the rear. If you don't go "full stuff" mode with the front tires then you probably (PROBABLY) don't need them, but if you want them then by all means get them.

With the OME's, if you do much flexing the 33's will chew on the fender flares...but 33's look good on Jeeps regardless.
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:42 PM   #3
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For a guy doing his first post, I think you're on the right track. OME lifts are considered to be the best riding production lifts available and the same about the Bilstein shocks.

Depending on your planned use of the Jeep, the booms may or may not be a worthwhile investment.
On the rear, the boom shackles allow a bit more articulation and if you do anything more than daily driver/forest service roads they should help some.

On the front they may help prevent spring inversion. A case of spring inversion is pretty unlikely with the 2 1/2" lift and moderate wheeling. If you're an aggressive off-road driver then they may save your expensive front springs.

Boom shackles are a bigger help on spring over conversions.

Need them or not, they have a nice cool factor. A '95 YJ with no rust and runs like a top isn't cheap. Neither is the OME lift and Bilstein shocks. If your budget will allow the booms, I say go for it. Other than the couple hundred bucks for the shackles, I don't think there's a down side.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:04 PM   #4
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Run stock shackles unless ome specifies something else

Assuming here that you are dropping to 31's
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
Run stock shackles unless ome specifies something else

Assuming here that you are dropping to 31's
That's the plan. My YJ sure looks sharp on 33's but I just don't use it to its full potential.

The previous owner dropped a lot of cash on it. 4 inch lift with 33 inch BFG all terrains. Regeared to 4.56's in the diffs and upgraded the front and rear bumpers. Really....if I told you guys what I bought her for....you'd report me for grand theft auto.

My plan was to find a nice stock TJ but the ones I did find in my budget were basket cases. I bought this YJ simply because of how good of shape its in. Having galvanized body panels certainly kept the rust at bay in this case.

The 4 inch rough country lift is just that....ROUGH. I air down to 18 PSI just for logging roads. Having the track bars in there doesn't help matters but they'll be coming out when I redo the lift.

I'm trying to turn the ol girl into a backwoods explorer and a long distance tour'er. I'm not into hard core wheeling or heavy duty mudding, just exploring.
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Old 11-27-2017, 08:11 AM   #6
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Get those track bars and brackets out and you will feel a big improvement immediately. At least I did. And it's free.
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Old 11-27-2017, 08:38 AM   #7
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I recently put the front track bar back on my YJ after having gone without for years...

I didn't notice any significant loss of ride quality however street handling and steering is VERY much improved...
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:00 PM   #8
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1) Welcome to the Forum.

2) This thread needs pics.

3) No fair teasing us about the purchase price, it hurts our feelings.

4) This thread needs pics.

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Old 11-30-2017, 11:35 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
I recently put the front track bar back on my YJ after having gone without for years...

I didn't notice any significant loss of ride quality however street handling and steering is VERY much improved...
Track bar or did you mean sway bar? If you indeed are referring to the track bar, you're literally the first person in thousands of posts and face-to-face discussions to notice an improved ride with track bars installed. Up to this point, and after a year of being in the "YJ world", I have not met or seen a single thumbs up to track bar use.

Personally, I didn't notice a thing (on-road) with the track bar (front) installed. I even went as part as installing $10 urethane bushings in mine to see if it did anything. I couldn't notice a single change, even at highway speeds or during "spirited" turns.

On the other hand, I tried mine without the sway bar. I didn't notice much improvement on-road, even at highway speeds. However, I did notice the lack of sway bar in certain conditions, namely accelerating or decelerating around turns. At constant speeds, didn't seem to have an affect around long turns or transitions (such as on-ramps), but when changing speed, it was very noticeable and uneasy feeling. As a result, I put the sway back on for good...
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:43 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by chris yoos View Post
Booms were originally designed to prevent spring inversion on the front and aren't really necessary on the rear.
Really? Seems like every old-time Jeeper I talk to about booms said they were designed to prevent the rear spring eye from hitting the frame...

Technically, you don't need booms to prevent spring inversion on the front, you just need aftermarket shackles with the cross-bar running across the center...

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris yoos View Post
With the OME's, if you do much flexing the 33's will chew on the fender flares...but 33's look good on Jeeps regardless.
^^ truth! You'll want to run extended bumpstops and/or do some light trimming to prevent fender damage with 33" tires, especially 12.5" wide tires. Note that backspacing will dictate how much and/or where rubbing occurs.

FWIW, I think 4"+ lifts for 33" tires are too much and the pros don't outweigh the cons IMO. I recently went from a 4.5" RE Extreme lift down to a 2.5" RE (standard) lift. The ride is smoother, handling is improved, and it "looks" much better IMO as well (although I usually take function over form, having both is a plus!).
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Old 11-30-2017, 09:24 PM   #11
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No I said and meant track bar, however I didn't say it rides better I said it HANDLES better.... I have very soft flexy springs and running without the track bar gives a very vague sloppy steering feel....

With the track bar the steering is precise and crisp.... the ride does not suffer although I can detect a slight additional latteral movement of the body (and thus my seat) on HARD bumps.


If you just putz along on straight roads you might not notice it but I have a lot of bumpy twisty hilly roads and I don't cruise leisurely but rather I drive to get where I'm going.

I also see absolutely no problem with articulation.... my 33's regularly reshape my fenders....

Now the swaybar on the other hand does hurt the ride quality.... uneven bumps in the road toss (lean) the body side to side quite a bit more with it hooked up.... I tend to leave it disco'd most of the time.... mostly out of being lazy.... body roll doesn't bother me near as much as sloppy steering.....

Btw, if you still have those re 4.5 extreme springs I suggest that you hang on to em.... the standard duty re springs aren't nearly as good.... I was going through the 4" springs every few months before I swapped to the 4.5 extremes....

You may well be easier on your rig than me and may have better luck but give a year or so to be sure.
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:10 PM   #12
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Got ya! I must have read it too fast or perhaps it was pre-coffee

I can't say I noticed any crispness loss when I ditched my track bar or when I reinstalled with urethane bushings. I definitely felt the hard sideways jolt when going over speed bumps or potholes. Other than that, it was very neutral overall.

Here in AZ we have a mix of roads to get to the popular trails or breakfast spots. A 75-80 mph jaunt, followed by <15 mph twisty curves on a lake/canyon road, followed by "maintained" dirt roads really test a suspension on many levels. My YJ, at least when it was set up with the 4.5" springs, felt unsettled when unloading the suspension (like when coming out of a curve) or when loading (turning into a curve). With the sway bar, there is a very noticeable difference. I can't say I felt bumps more with the sway bar disconnected, but like anything I'm sure there are lots of variables at play that will affect actual or perceived performance (spring rate, shocks, etc).

I heard the same as your are saying about the 4.5 Extreme vs 4.0" standard springs, but from all I can gather, the 2.5" spring last much longer. Time will tell I suppose but I'm not afraid of swapping them out every few years. My Jeepin' buddy has had good luck with OME springs too, so if I get annoyed or they don't perform as expected, I'll give those a whirl!
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:37 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Gottagofast View Post
No I said and meant track bar, however I didn't say it rides better I said it HANDLES better.... I have very soft flexy springs and running without the track bar gives a very vague sloppy steering feel....

With the track bar the steering is precise and crisp.... the ride does not suffer although I can detect a slight additional latteral movement of the body (and thus my seat) on HARD bumps.


If you just putz along on straight roads you might not notice it but I have a lot of bumpy twisty hilly roads and I don't cruise leisurely but rather I drive to get where I'm going.

I also see absolutely no problem with articulation.... my 33's regularly reshape my fenders....

Now the swaybar on the other hand does hurt the ride quality.... uneven bumps in the road toss (lean) the body side to side quite a bit more with it hooked up.... I tend to leave it disco'd most of the time.... mostly out of being lazy.... body roll doesn't bother me near as much as sloppy steering.....

Btw, if you still have those re 4.5 extreme springs I suggest that you hang on to em.... the standard duty re springs aren't nearly as good.... I was going through the 4" springs every few months before I swapped to the 4.5 extremes....

You may well be easier on your rig than me and may have better luck but give a year or so to be sure.
You must do zero off road driving. Your experience is quite the opposite of mine and others. In the rough stuff the track bars bind up the suspension, increase unsprung weight, and ride AWFUL. A significant difference IS noticed upon their removal.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:21 AM   #14
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.......My YJ, at least when it was set up with the 4.5" springs, felt unsettled when unloading the suspension (like when coming out of a curve) or when loading (turning into a curve). With the sway bar, there is a very noticeable difference. I can't say I felt bumps more with the sway bar disconnected, but like anything I'm sure there are lots of variables at play that will affect actual or perceived performance (spring rate, shocks, etc).


I heard the same as your are saying about the 4.5 Extreme vs 4.0" standard springs, but from all I can gather, the 2.5" spring last much longer. Time will tell I suppose but I'm not afraid of swapping them out every few years. My Jeepin' buddy has had good luck with OME springs too, so if I get annoyed or they don't perform as expected, I'll give those a whirl!

I suspect that we are describing the same thing with different terms.... you say loading and unloading.... I say "vague sloppy" either way, the axle is walking out from under the jeep toward the inside of the curve making the wheels steer toward the outside of the curve and causing the driver to need to turn the steering wheel further to compensate..... IE poor steering....

We both fixed it in different ways.. you went with less spring arch thus making the springs less prone to twisting and better able to control lateral movement of the axle and I chose to get my track bar working properly..... I have a drop pitman which by itself made matters worse but when I dropped the track bar to be level my issues went away.....

For years I had 2.5" springs and no track bar and loved it but with the 4.5 extremes handling went to crap without it.

Hopefully the 2.5's work for ya.... if they don't another to consider is bds.... I've had good luck w their 2.5's


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You must do zero off road driving. Your experience is quite the opposite of mine and others. In the rough stuff the track bars bind up the suspension, increase unsprung weight, and ride AWFUL. A significant difference IS noticed upon their removal.
LOL!!! That's funny.....
The statements I made are ABSOLUTELY true regarding MY jeep as it is set up..... just because your jeep or someone else's reacts different doesn't mean that my statements are false OR that I "do zero offroad driving"
Feel free to come take a ride in my jeep and learn something new....
OR for that matter if you want to have a constructive discussion you might learn something that way too.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:54 AM   #15
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Really? Seems like every old-time Jeeper I talk to about booms said they were designed to prevent the rear spring eye from hitting the frame...
^^^ I have been known to remember things a bit bass-ackwards at times! Thank you for the correction!



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Looks GOOOOOD!
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Old 12-01-2017, 01:15 PM   #16
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That is the plan for my jeep, it has a total 6" lift 4 in suspension + 2 in body mounts. If I keep it, it's getting 2" springs and 1" body. (I like the working room a body lift provides)

Pc1p's photos show my whole before and after plans.
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:00 PM   #17
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Pc1p, it looks like you might have had rock guards in the past judging by the white horizontal lines along your rocker panel.
Is that so? If so, why did you remove them?

I'm thinking about installing rock guards that have a step to protect from side tree damage (and underside rock damage).

There's a recent thread in the Jeep general discussion about a Jeeper that got stuck and then unstuck. He describes how his rock guards with a step saved him from side damage.

Thanks, and Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 12-01-2017, 05:37 PM   #18
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@Luckymac they weren't rock guards, but rather the factory installed plastic steps that ran across from flare to flare. You can see them better in this picture:


I took them off because with my size 15 EEEE shoes, they weren't a step but rather a broken knee cap waiting to happen. They also looked pretty terrible in my opinion. I'll be adding some blacked-out diamond plate cladding across the bottom to make it look better (and cover the holes) and will then be running a true frame-mounted set of rock sliders. I'm eyeing up the Tomken Machine set, but no one seems to have an opinion on them. I like how they mount up and can support a Hi-Lift jack with ease. They also don't require trimming of the body mounts like many of the other ones do.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:55 PM   #19
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@Luckymac they weren't rock guards, but rather the factory installed plastic steps that ran across from flare to flare..
I have those damn things, too. Can't wait to ditch them. Fenders and rock sliders are down on the list, after all these little interior repairs I have to make.

You mention trimming the body mounts to fit the non-frame mount style. Are they all like that?

I don't want the frame mount style, I have hung those up on logs and branches before, and want to keep it smooth on both sides under the rockers.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:01 AM   #20
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@NorthWestern - A lot of the sliders that "wedge" between the body and the body bushing require trimming, typically 3/16", off the body bushing itself. Alternatively, you can skip the trim and install a 3/16" thick washer in each of the other body mount locations to keep it all even.

I've never used sliders on Jeeps before, only Toyotas and they have always been frame mounts. I will say that a good frame-mounted rock slider should hang down no further than your frame itself. You'll never be completely "smooth" under the rockers, as you have the body mounts there that seem just as likely to get caught up on things and IIRC, a few companies make products to beef up the factory body mounts!

I can't say that I've ever got my sliders (4Runner and Tundra) hung up on a log/branch before, but have caught the edges on some rock edges. It has never been anything to got me completely hung up on and I have always found that if the frame connects were touching rocks, so was the slide rail itself. Perhaps it's possible under certain conditions to get hung up on just the frame connects, but that's a "Swiss cheese" scenario at best and for me a frame-mounted set of sliders is the only real option IMO for truck rock crawling. I don't care if you connect to all 3 side body mounts, 3/16" sheet steel is not going to offer a lot of protection if 3300 lbs comes off a ledge onto a rock edge! I've already seen the results of this twice and in both instances the underlying body buckled and crushed (along with the slider) and these were no junky Chinese-made rock sliders.

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