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Old 06-25-2009, 02:03 PM
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SOA Conversion

Hey! If there is a thread out there already like this, I'm sorry, and feel free to delete it, but...


How hard is it to do a SOA conversion? I have a 4" RE lift, and considering doing an SOA sometime in the future. I know I need a CV driveshaft and SYE, but will I need new u-bolts, shocks, brakeline extensions, trackbar relocater, etc. since it all came with my current lift kit?


any help/tips/thread links is much appreciated!


Tucker

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Old 06-25-2009, 02:07 PM   #2
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you also need new springs... lots of folks use stock yj springs.. steering will need corrected.. sye with out a doubt.. figure done right $1000 or more.

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Old 06-25-2009, 02:16 PM
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I'll need new springs even though I got new ones with the lift kit?
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker54 View Post
Hey! If there is a thread out there already like this, I'm sorry, and feel free to delete it, but...


How hard is it to do a SOA conversion? I have a 4" RE lift, and considering doing an SOA sometime in the future. I know I need a CV driveshaft and SYE, but will I need new u-bolts, shocks, brakeline extensions, trackbar relocater, etc. since it all came with my current lift kit?


any help/tips/thread links is much appreciated!


Tucker
you would need new u bolts spring and shock perches thats about it however with that much lift you will need front and rear cv driveshfts and some sort of high steer
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Old 06-25-2009, 04:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker54 View Post
Hey! If there is a thread out there already like this, I'm sorry, and feel free to delete it, but...


How hard is it to do a SOA conversion? I have a 4" RE lift, and considering doing an SOA sometime in the future. I know I need a CV driveshaft and SYE, but will I need new u-bolts, shocks, brakeline extensions, trackbar relocater, etc. since it all came with my current lift kit?


any help/tips/thread links is much appreciated!


Tucker
u bolts yes, more than likey new brake lines, sye and cv drive shaft yes,i recomend an adjustable track bar, i also highly recomend doing high steer, and converting to cross over steering. new springs are needed, you have high curve springs. re makes a spring just for soa, they work really nice. millitary wrap springs with revers eyes.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/my-s...que-31719.html
there is our soa thread
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next up twizted soa full widths. 14bolt and dana44
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:41 PM   #6
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ya a 4" lift spring is way to tall for soa.
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:34 PM   #7
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to tall for a street jeep atleast
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:46 PM
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ok so my 4" is too much for an SOA... what can I do to get more lift?
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:05 PM   #9
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its to tall for a street truck if you want to make a wheeling truck go for it i run 3.5 springs 11/4 shackels 3" body and soa with 42 but its not a street truck
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:01 AM
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wow nice. I might have to go for that
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
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its to tall for a street truck if you want to make a wheeling truck go for it i run 3.5 springs 11/4 shackels 3" body and soa with 42 but its not a street truck
pic's?
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
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pic's?
x2


To do a proper SOA there are several things that need to be addressed.

-First is what springs your going to run. You can use your 4" springs if you want but its going to be very tall. Yours would be about as tall as mine. I've got 3" springs on the SOA with 2.5" body and 1" shackle. I don't know about it not being a street truck. The only thing stopping my jeep from being a daily driver is the fact that it's down right now for a starter, alternator, and clutch. Well that and its a PITA to try and get in all the time. I have no issues at all running 80mph down the freeway or cruising around town. It's actually nicer to drive than my Mini.

-Next is steering. I'm using a drop pitman and a high steer bracket from JB4x4. You'll need both of those if you use your 4" springs. You might not need the drop pitman if you go with stock springs.

-The brake line extensions you've got won't be enough if you use your 4" springs. I recommend relocating your brake lines under the frame. It doesn't cost anything and you'll gain 4 inches.

-CV and SYE are a given. Your not going to need a CV for the front. If you have the stock skid plate you'll need to notch it a bit for the front drive shaft.

-Your going to need new spring perches and u-bolts.

-Ditch the tracbars altogether, especially if use your 4" springs. With that much lift, tracbars just aren't going to work.

- Shocks. I don't know if you'll find a set of shocks that will work with the SOA and 4" springs without spending a ton of money. Here is what I did. I cut off my old shock mounts and made new ones. Then I welded them onto the axles higher up. That has 2 benefits. It's one less thing sticking below the axle tubes so they are up out of the way. Second is you'll have an easier time getting shocks. If done right you might be able to get away with the shocks you've got now.

- Your also going to want some sort of traction bar for the rear end to stop spring wrap. There are several out there.

The parts list in your case will look about like this if you use the 4" springs.
- SYE
- Rear CV shaft
- 4 spring perches
- 8 u-bolts
- JB4x4 high steer bracket
- New shocks (maybe)
- New shock mounts
- Traction bar
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:28 PM   #13
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if you lose the sway bar u can mount the front shocks to the u bolt plates whare the sway bar mounted
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:31 PM   #14
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if you do a soa with stock springs use a drop pitt arm otherwise you will get loads of bump steer.
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next up twizted soa full widths. 14bolt and dana44
colorado, home of the insane
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3144433
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:47 PM   #15
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↑ Unless you use the high steer bracket.
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:13 PM   #16
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and the drop pitman arm helps the drag link not hit the right spring, which it still does sometimes without modification.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:45 PM   #17
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pic's?
ya in a few days i got to get it out of the garage
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Old 06-27-2009, 01:51 AM
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coyote, thanks!!! That was an awesome post.

That really helped
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
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and the drop pitman arm helps the drag link not hit the right spring, which it still does sometimes without modification.
Yes. I couldn't drive mine till I put on the high steer bracket to get the drag link above the right spring. I could only turn the wheel 2/3 of the way to lock before hitting the spring.

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coyote, thanks!!! That was an awesome post.

That really helped
Anytime.

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