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Old 07-26-2011, 04:04 AM
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Spruce up my YJ - ideas??

So now that I've got my YJ running like a champ again (silly ignition issue) I was wondering what I can do to it to make it a little 'cooler' and a very capable trail jeep. I have a 2012 JKU on the way but I am planning to keep that mostly stock for a while since it will be brand new. So this will be my trail toy for a bit. PLUS this will be a good practice vehicle for me to start learning how to do certain things on and build up as I go.

1992 Wrangler YJ 2.5L

It currently has BFG 31's on it (I didn't do this I bought it about 2 weeks ago off of my girlfriends brother-in-law).

As far as lifts go on these would I benefit more from a shackle lift / leaf spring or coil spacer? I really want to do the lift myself because I like to tinker around and learn things as well. I am familiar with suspension as I used to lower cars and stuff when I was younger.

What other simple things (keeping a reasonable budget in mind) do you guys think I could do to 'spice up' the ol jeep!

What about as far as reinforcing suspension for a better trail crawler? Quick disconnects a must? I know it's a 4 banger but I can't imagine them beind bad at all on a trail ride.



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Old 07-26-2011, 04:17 AM
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More pics...Yes I know the spare tire is ugly lol








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Old 07-26-2011, 06:52 AM   #3
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step 1, get a matching BFG all terrain spare tire dose not have to be new just the same size.

step 2, recovery points, get a set of front tow hooks and a rear reciver d-ring clevis mount.

step 3. Its a trail jeep, lose the track bars and rear sway bar not needed, up front rune a set of disconnects

step 4. for a lift I'd run new 1.5in lift leaf springs with M.O.R.E stock height boomerang shackles. that will give you new springs to replace the older ones under your rig. Also the Boomerang style shackles give you the flex benefits of an extended shackle with out added lift

step 5, armor and more armor, a good set of rock sliders or rocker guards on the tub t-case skid plate and gas tank skid plate are all great mods if you plan on running harder trails with it.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:27 AM   #4
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Iron grave gave you great advise! How tall are you looking to go? Tire size?
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:19 AM   #5
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I have a new set of OME boomerang greaseable shackles. If ur interested, PM me
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:36 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ed0985587 View Post
As far as lifts go on these would I benefit more from a shackle lift / leaf spring or coil spacer? I really want to do the lift myself because I like to tinker around and learn things as well. I am familiar with suspension as I used to lower cars and stuff when I was younger.
I'd love to see you put some coil spacers on it...

On the other hand, while shackles are cheap, often you need ot put in a wedge to get the caster angle back for the front. If you want to do it right, get a short set of springs (2.5" OME springs ROCK). Add some heavy duty shackles. Call the suspension done.

That's assuming you aren't looking to go large.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:35 PM   #7
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Bed-line the interior, TJ fender flares

Both are relatively cheap, and really add to the look
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:44 PM   #8
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like he said, bedliner. stuff is amazing
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:04 PM   #9
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Take the carpet out and and put some bedliner on the floor, carpet, trail mud and rain don't mix. The four banger is fine for off road. I only let me down a couple times on some huge hills and thick mud.
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:17 PM
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All good ideas guys. I found another wheel on ebay for the spare tire but I just have to make sure the lug pattern is the same. I think the one on ebay was 5x5 but the logs seem to measure around 4.5x4.5 Anyone know for sure?

Also as far as the lift I have never done a lift before really. If I do the shackle thing do they just bolt into the current space between the leaf spring and the frame? Is there any write ups or install instructions that could give me a general idea of what I am getting into beforehand?

I only want a small lift nothing extreme for what I need it for. Was thinking a 2.5" or so. I don't want to have to re-gear it which I shouldn't if I am running the 31's still.

I like the idea of the TJ fender flares. Was looking on Quadratec and there are a few different ones.
Search Results - Quadratec
Will these bolt right into the existing holes on my YJ even though they are meant for 97 and up models??
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:25 PM   #11
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You'll have to either drill new holes, or use self tappers.

Theres a lip on the TJ flares. Installing TJ flares on a YJ

I cut off the lip and just mounted them, I havent trimmed my fender wells yet.

Heres some:
1997-2002 JEEP WRANGLER TJ USED FENDER FLARES | eBay

Jeep TJ Fender Flares | eBay
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:28 PM   #12
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Yj lug pattern is 5x4.5 same as tjs!
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:56 PM
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You'll have to either drill new holes, or use self tappers.

Theres a lip on the TJ flares. Installing TJ flares on a YJ
That guy is trimming his bode with a cutting wheel etc. I am not going to have to do any of that am I? Just make sure the holes match up / drill new holes?
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:21 PM
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:41 PM
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Also what is the theory behind shackles? They just provide more space between the leaf spring and the frame? I guess the driveshaft on the rear doesn't move at all - theoretically the axle stays in the same place it just lifts the frame a bit? Does the shackle type lift work in conjunction with springs or do you usually use one or the other? I need to find a good write up on installation to see what the theory is.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:56 AM
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https://picasaweb.google.com/1149070...86204603204482

For example, this is my current front shackle. Are the lift shackles just longer?
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:59 AM   #17
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yes, thats exactelly what they do
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:13 AM   #18
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That guy is trimming his bode with a cutting wheel etc. I am not going to have to do any of that am I? Just make sure the holes match up / drill new holes?
Not necessarily. It lines up with the body better if you keep the lip on the TJ flares and cut the body, but I trimmed off the lip and just mounted them. I'll trim the fender wells eventually
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:51 AM   #19
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Put some fender flares on that thing! YJ or TJ flares, whatever you like. IMO it looks too much like something's missing. I also scrapped my carpet because it was holding moisture and that's bad news.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ed0985587 View Post
Also what is the theory behind shackles? They just provide more space between the leaf spring and the frame? I guess the driveshaft on the rear doesn't move at all - theoretically the axle stays in the same place it just lifts the frame a bit? Does the shackle type lift work in conjunction with springs or do you usually use one or the other? I need to find a good write up on installation to see what the theory is.
What is there to not understand? Longer shackles will increase the distance between the axle and the frame. You just loosen the bolts, lift the frame up to take weight off the shackles, pop the bolts out, raise vehicle some more and bolt in the longer shackles. I did a 1" shackle lift and a 1.25" body lift on mine to clear my 32's properly. Usually guys do a shackle lift because it's quick, easy and cheaper than springs. If you do some nice aftermarket lift springs, there's no need for longer shackles unless you want a little extra lift yet.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:05 AM
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Cool. Seems really simple when put like that..
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Old 07-27-2011, 03:44 PM
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Looking at my jeep currently I don't see how springs would even fit over the shock on there. There is no base for a spring. The current suspension only has a shock and that's it (worn out shock I might add...I want to also replace the shocks).
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:04 PM
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Was looking around on quadratec lift kit advisor and it gives me a list of these kits which are all leaf spring kits that allow 31" tires. Well heck I am already running 31" tires...

Search Results - Quadratec

Also saw these kits for my vehicle:

Wrangler YJ Lift Kits (87-96) from XtremeTerrain.com Jeep Parts

I do not see any springs listed there. If I was to go higher to say 4" would I have to regear? Also can someone explain to me the need for a T-case drop with higher lift kits?
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:39 PM
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^^----oh not actual "springs"...leaf springs is what you were saying I guess..
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:21 PM   #24
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You want to be "Kool"?
Pocket flares, 4" lift with 33's and a Flowmaster.
BIG CB antenna, a pair of 12" subs, add a monster tach with rev light thats so big you cant see through half the windshield, Spray your bumpers and grille Krylon Chrome!

You want to be functional?

Spring over lift with 33's slip yoke eliminator, flares that barley cover the tread (or get pulled over), and front sway bar disconnects. remove rear sway bar, its un-necessary.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:30 PM
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Ya definitely want the functional route...lol What exactly is spring over lift?

Rubicon Express Part RE5015 - Spring-Over Conversion System by Rubicon Express

Is that what you are talking about / or is needed? I am pretty new to the lifting stuff as I have never done it before but am trying to learn.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:47 PM   #26
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As it comes from the factory, the YJ is in a Spring Under Axle (SUA) configuration. The axle sits on top of the spring. Spring Over Axle (SOA) is the opposite of that. The spring sits on top of the axle.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:47 PM   #27
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Ya definitely want the functional route...lol What exactly is spring over lift?

Rubicon Express Part RE5015 - Spring-Over Conversion System by Rubicon Express

Is that what you are talking about / or is needed? I am pretty new to the lifting stuff as I have never done it before but am trying to learn.

Yea, thats it, a tad expensive considering it doesnt include shocks....
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:19 AM   #28
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You haven't said how much of a lift you'd want to do. Like I said I did a 1" shackle lift and a 1.25" body lift. The body lift was about $100 off ebay and the shackle lift was $60 at summit. It gives me good clearance with the 32x10.5 tires I run. A SOA conversion gives you a lot of lift and you would need to upgrade to some bigger tires because 5-6" of lift with 31's would look ridiculous. I didn't feel like spending the money on new leaf springs, and because I didn't need that much extra lift over stock, I cheaped out and went with the body and shackle lift. I'm very happy with it.
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:26 AM   #29
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I do not see any springs listed there. If I was to go higher to say 4" would I have to regear? Also can someone explain to me the need for a T-case drop with higher lift kits?
Typically you only have to regear when you increase tire size. And you don't have to regear, but going to bigger tires has the same affect on driveability and power as changing to a numerically lower differential gear ratio. So when you go to bigger tires you in theory should go to a numerically higher gear ratio to compensate. Now considering the cost and effort of regearing, most guys don't do it unless they go with some really large tires.

As for the transfer case drop, when you increase the distance between the axle and the body/frame, the the front and rear driveshafts have to make a steeper angle from the transfer case to the axles. This is because when you lift, the engine, trans and transfer case stays with the frame. When your driveshafts have to make an excessive angle to mate the axles with the transfer case you tend to get vibration problems during normal driving, especially at highway speeds. This is why you need to lower the transfer case a bit, to compensate. For a small lift like what I did, this is not an issue at all. For somelike larger like a SOA, you can bet problems like this can arise.
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:22 AM
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Typically you only have to regear when you increase tire size. And you don't have to regear, but going to bigger tires has the same affect on driveability and power as changing to a numerically lower differential gear ratio. So when you go to bigger tires you in theory should go to a numerically higher gear ratio to compensate. Now considering the cost and effort of regearing, most guys don't do it unless they go with some really large tires.

As for the transfer case drop, when you increase the distance between the axle and the body/frame, the the front and rear driveshafts have to make a steeper angle from the transfer case to the axles. This is because when you lift, the engine, trans and transfer case stays with the frame. When your driveshafts have to make an excessive angle to mate the axles with the transfer case you tend to get vibration problems during normal driving, especially at highway speeds. This is why you need to lower the transfer case a bit, to compensate. For a small lift like what I did, this is not an issue at all. For somelike larger like a SOA, you can bet problems like this can arise.
Excellent explanation man. Crystal clear now on that part

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