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Old 04-18-2015, 01:14 PM
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transfer case explaination?

I drove a 95 YJ for 3 years. Only a couple of times did I go into 4wd and it was pretty simple by shifting transfer case shift to 4H or 4L. Ok I just got a lifted 93, and it being very different than my 95. For one thing it has one of those LOK cables under the dash....was just driving down road after spending a couple weeks getting the engine problem figured out, when I noticed she was not tracking properly - like it's being pulled slightly left or right. Was slowing down approaching an intersection and suddenly she bucked almost violently for a few seconds. NOW WHAT?!!! So pulled slowly around the corner and no problem.

Since this is a lifted Jeep it feels completely different than my 95 did. I'm not used to it, and now I'm thinking it must have been in 4wd and it just bucked until the transfer case shifted to N. Or something broke. Drove it another mile and pulled in my driveway and noticed the transfer case seemed to be in the N position. So What the heck happened anyone?

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Old 04-19-2015, 10:09 AM   #2
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I don't know what happened but if the t/case jumped to neutral you should not have been able to drive it.

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Old 04-20-2015, 03:44 PM
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I don't know what happened but if the t/case jumped to neutral you should not have been able to drive it.
I'm on a crash course learning this Jeep. My mistake.....It's not the transfer case. I just wrote down things I thought happened - it shook me up a bit.

Today I drove it again, and coming to a stop going slow to make a turn it started jumping again, just like the first time it happened. This time I was not in shock like what the heck?

It's happened twice, both at slow speed while braking....like something is grabbing but the tires are not locking up.....it's a nasty event when it happens.....I'm trying to remember if I had the clutch in or not. Usually I take out of gear and leave in N when braking...man this is a head scratcher.
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:07 PM   #4
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Sounds like you're in 4WD and the front axle disconnect is engaged.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:52 PM   #5
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Check that posi lock contraption. Some pull to lok, some pull to unlock. You may also have a locker of some sort up front. That and a bunk posi lok could cause your issue.

Pics of the cable going into the CAD housing?
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:43 AM
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Sounds like you're in 4WD and the front axle disconnect is engaged.
thanks.....I've pushed the Transfer Case shifter in 2H as far as it will go - I've got that settled in my mind. However, the Posi-LOK is suspect to me.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:51 AM   #7
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Does it have a body lift? The cable does sound like the culprit, but oftentimes a body lift will interfere with the shifter throw. Yours wouldn't be the first vehicle I've seen stuck in 4WD due to a body lift.
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:01 PM   #8
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The transfer case linkage is prone to problems in our Jeeps too.
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Old 04-21-2015, 03:02 PM
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Does it have a body lift? The cable does sound like the culprit, but oftentimes a body lift will interfere with the shifter throw. Yours wouldn't be the first vehicle I've seen stuck in 4WD due to a body lift.
Yea a 3" body lift. Jeep is lifted 7" total - yes it's a lot. I bought this because the frame and body are not rusted - very unusual for NY.

I noticed the boot around the shifters is on backwards. May be interfering with pushing all the way into 2H. That coupled with POSI-LOK - I'm thinking in this direction too.

Want to disconnect the POSI-LOK cable - should talk with someone about how to do it. I"m not going to be rock climbing! Also noticed the wires going to the front axle is still connected. Isn't that an automatic posi-lock mechanism?
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Old 04-21-2015, 03:24 PM
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Check that posi lock contraption. Some pull to lok, some pull to unlock. You may also have a locker of some sort up front. That and a bunk posi lok could cause your issue.

Pics of the cable going into the CAD housing?
I'll take a couple pics of ft axle. Previous owner said pull to engage lock. Yes there are wires going to the other side of the cable mount on ft axle. Click image for larger version

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ID:	2116337 I assume those wires are the auto engage wires? Do these go into POSI every time you engage 4wd?
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:17 PM
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Does it have a body lift? The cable does sound like the culprit, but oftentimes a body lift will interfere with the shifter throw. Yours wouldn't be the first vehicle I've seen stuck in 4WD due to a body lift.
Body is lifted 3". I pulled the boot around the shifter. Since I'm new to this deep a trouble shoot, I'm not sure what I'm seeing. The metal plate that guides the shifter is shaped like an edge that is offset to the left half way between 2H & 4L. I can't push the shifter into the 2H position. It's not the body lift - at least it's not hitting anything. It's the adjustment of the linkage because if I pull down, right and down the shifter does go into the 4L position, but won't engage the gear. So either I'm stuck in 4H or my linkage needs to be adjusted.

Isn't it fun?.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:08 PM   #12
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The wires are for the 4wd light in the dash. The original locking mechanism in the axle was vacuum operated.

The shift linkage has plastic bushings at all the pivot points and they crumble and cause the problems you are having. Look at all the pivot points and you will likely find your issue.
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:41 AM   #13
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the posi lok shouldn't cause your problems. many people permalock the disconnect or run a one piece TJ shaft with no problems. disconnect the transfer case linkage and try to shift it. if it shifts ok adjust the linkage. also check the u joints in the front axle, they pop and bind when bad, mostly when turning.
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Old 04-26-2015, 12:19 PM
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the posi lok shouldn't cause your problems. many people permalock the disconnect or run a one piece TJ shaft with no problems. disconnect the transfer case linkage and try to shift it. if it shifts ok adjust the linkage. also check the u joints in the front axle, they pop and bind when bad, mostly when turning.
Hey Roady thanks - Will look up on YouTube how to ck for bad uJoints. I've changed them in past on other driveshafts, but not sure how to check if they are binding on front axle.

My concern is the bouncing/shaking when braking. This jumping/bouncing problem has happened 2 times in the 30 miles I've driven it, while slowing down with wheels still straight, but braking to make a turn. Slowing down, suddenly she feels like something went out of round and just bounces up and down quite violently. It does sound like a Ujoint could be causing it. Yesterday before rounding a corner, I stopped, pulled the Posi-Lok cable and no difference turning slowly so I don't think its the axle.

Tcase shifting.....The position of the shift lever won't go into the 2H position, like the 2h gears are engaged already and no more room to move. The trunanion lock bolt was tightened to the end of the rod and in that position it wouldn't shift into 2L. So something is not aligned properly. I'll look more into that later. Right now I'm in 2H.
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Old 04-26-2015, 12:29 PM
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The wires are for the 4wd light in the dash. The original locking mechanism in the axle was vacuum operated.

The shift linkage has plastic bushings at all the pivot points and they crumble and cause the problems you are having. Look at all the pivot points and you will likely find your issue.
Hey nice build post! Are you done? Do you have pics? My jeep looks like your id pic. Unfortunately I didn't do the work, but it's fun driving. Warm weather is coming - top/doors will be off.

Just got a service manual from Amazon and yea I see them in exploded diagram. Will ck them out I can see they would reduce throw if gone. thanks.
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:20 PM   #16
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Thanks for the comments on my build. It's far from done, but check my build for first flex pics. I just drove it around the driveway for a bit.

I hope you get yours figured out soon. Have you considered tranny problems?
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:17 AM   #17
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The connections for your CAD are backwards. The wired sensor should be on the inboard side. When the fork in the CAD moves left to the lock position (inboard), the switch is closed and your 4WD light should come one. The way it's set up, when CAD is unlocked, the 4wd light is going to be on.
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:16 AM   #18
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I'd like to see how he has the linkage attached with a 3" body lift....actually if it were me I'd pull that 3" body lift to no more than 1", actually if it were mine I'd take it to no body lift, 4" suspension lift is fine.
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Old 04-27-2015, 12:16 PM
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The connections for your CAD are backwards. The wired sensor should be on the inboard side. When the fork in the CAD moves left to the lock position (inboard), the switch is closed and your 4WD light should come one. The way it's set up, when CAD is unlocked, the 4wd light is going to be on.
Thanks for heads up. I'm NOT surprised, but I don't think the cable for the POSI-LOK will stretch around to the other side. I may be wrong but you are right, The 4wd light is not coming on - I'll look into it.

When I got this Jeep there were wires and vacuum lines disconnected, etc. Long story short - jacked up and set on stands, pulled front wheel/brake - discovered the U-Bolts that go around the front axle thru the spring plate WERE LOOSE! I can move them with my fingers. SO, undoubtedly that is why this thing has been bouncing up and down when coming to a stop. I can visualize the rubber bushing under the springs resonating back and forth. and the 3" body lift and 35" tires just amplify it. Nice huh? Also the 3 hub screws are loose - they hold the hub in place securing the axle. So, I'll be on a tightening binge on all components under the front end.
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Old 04-27-2015, 12:24 PM   #20
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That could also be a replacement switch that works in the opposite direction. You can test the circuit by shorting the two leads together in the plug with the ignition on. If you have a multi-meter you can do a continuity check to test the switch. With the fork in the locked position (pulled out?) the switch should show continuity. Unlocked, you'll have open circuit.

All it does is turn the 4WD light on the dash on/off though, so it's not a big deal, but can give you that warm and fuzzy feeling inside.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:30 AM
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That could also be a replacement switch that works in the opposite direction. You can test the circuit by shorting the two leads together in the plug with the ignition on. If you have a multi-meter you can do a continuity check to test the switch. With the fork in the locked position (pulled out?) the switch should show continuity. Unlocked, you'll have open circuit.

All it does is turn the 4WD light on the dash on/off though, so it's not a big deal, but can give you that warm and fuzzy feeling inside.
Yea the switch might have come in the POSI-LOK kit. Most likely.

My next quest is to fix speedometer, and find out why early damp mornings the beast won't run smooth - skips a lot when applying throttle. May be Fuel Injection system/sensor combo or moisture effecting PCM. Guess I'll take for diagnostic.
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Old 04-28-2015, 10:14 AM   #22
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Speedometer not working at all, or intermittent, or reading off?

Rough running when cold could be a number of things; TPS, fuel pressure low, distributor, etc. See if you have any codes and go from there. If you do a site search, you'll find a number of threads on engine codes.
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:23 PM
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Speedometer not working at all, or intermittent, or reading off?

Rough running when cold could be a number of things; TPS, fuel pressure low, distributor, etc. See if you have any codes and go from there. If you do a site search, you'll find a number of threads on engine codes.
9T - sorry took so long.....I've been working a lot on this bad boy. Drove to a friends the other night and lost my headlights/tail lights - turned out to be a bad head light switch. Still have to work out an issue with tail lights - the dufus who had this put LED tail lights in and I have to check to be sure wires are correct. Right now I have brake lights when no headlights are on, but if headlights are on, I get no brake lights. Am going to trace wires in harness that carry back to tail lights. Do you know the color codes for tail lights on 93 YJ?

Speedometer does not work at all. My Haynes Repair Manual talks about a speedometer cable but I don't see one on either this 93 nor my 95. I'll look for a disconnected cable but I don't think there is one.

Tightened the ubolts (over the front driver side axle and thru the spring plate - no more violent shaking - that was the problem there. Loose axle/spring Ubolts = very dangerous.
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:27 AM   #24
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Sounds like your wiring is a mess. Haynes manual has some diagrams, with some patience and a multimeter you'll have to try to get through it. You probably have the lead for the brake illumination shorted to the light switch somewhere. When the headlights are on, and the tail lights are light up, does it look like it's using the taillight filament, or is it brighter, using the brake filament?

The speedometer on your Jeep should be electric. There is a gear that comes out of the side on the driver side of the transfer case just front of the output shaft. It's on the output housing.. The gear drives a signal generator that goes up to the cluster.

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