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Old 05-31-2019, 02:20 PM
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Trouble shooting a leak

I have a leak between my engine and trans. My engine was pretty grimy so I climbed under it and scrubbed fairly well. As soon as I fired up the jeep a drip started up on the driver's side of the plate between the engine and trans. At first I thought it was the rear main, I'm starting to lean towards the oil pan gasket because wouldn't the rear main be more in the center of the plate? I may take that plate off for a better look. Ill edit in an image in a few.

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Old 05-31-2019, 02:24 PM
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Here is a pic (hopefully it works ). I would think if it was the seal, the leak would be more in the middle of that pan not the side. I could be wrong though. I would much rather just change the pan gasket though :\



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Old 05-31-2019, 03:35 PM   #3
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I'm not clicking on an unknown link but the oil pan is prone to leak w engine running or not but rms would be running only..... that said, it's 90% the same job.... just change em both at the same time
Takes less than 15 extra minutes to do the rms w oil pan off
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:01 PM
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It's a 2.5 and only leaks when running. I think the trans has to be pulled to do it.

Would the pan leak if sitting flat and not running?
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:01 PM
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It's a clean link. Just to the image, but your call. I wasn't able to post it in the body due to posting from my phone.
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:05 PM   #6
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It's a 2.5 and only leaks when running. I think the trans has to be pulled to do it.

Would the pan leak if sitting flat and not running?
It depends on the volume of the pan if oil level is below the sim it wont leak.
Check also if there is no pressure buildup in the carter maybe pcv valve is faulty and extra pressure is pushing oil out.
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:27 PM   #7
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His imgur link is safe, it's an image hosting service that is unfortunately not compatible with this forum.

Many of us use Dropbox, and Google to host our images, but Wrangler forum can also host them.

In desktop mode click advanced, manage attachments, upload photos.
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:04 PM
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It depends on the volume of the pan if oil level is below the sim it wont leak.
Check also if there is no pressure buildup in the carter maybe pcv valve is faulty and extra pressure is pushing oil out.

Normally I'm good with spell correct and mispellings (if that's the case here), but what do you mean by carter?
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRQ View Post
His imgur link is safe, it's an image hosting service that is unfortunately not compatible with this forum.

Many of us use Dropbox, and Google to host our images, but Wrangler forum can also host them.

In desktop mode click advanced, manage attachments, upload photos.



I know this is off topic but I had my phone on 'full version' and i couldn't even quote people. I had to log into my PC. I'll see if I can fix my above link to the image since I'm on now anyway
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:13 PM   #10
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Edit: you figured it out
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Old 05-31-2019, 11:09 PM   #11
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Normally I'm good with spell correct and mispellings (if that's the case here), but what do you mean by carter?
Crankcase -sorry many languages in my head.
So basically if pcv valve is stuck close than pressure will build inside the motor pushing oil out.
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Old 06-01-2019, 12:28 AM   #12
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There is no pcv valve... just a ccv.... that said the orifice could be clogged but it would blow out into the air intake way before pushing past a (good) rms or oil pan gasket...

Oops... yeah 2.5 would require more effort to change rms...
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Old 06-01-2019, 05:43 AM
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Previous owner just plopped a hose in the ccv and ran it under the jeep. Something I plan to rectify before. I start driving it more often. I have the part I just need the hose. I don't think it's the pressure though. I'm pretty sure it's either the gasket or rms. I'm just hoping it's NOT the rms. I don't feel like pulling the trans lol.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:52 AM   #14
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Seeing where the drip is, I'd guess that the leak is most probably in the RMS, rather than the pan gasket.
If I had a leak in that area and went as far as pulling the pan, I would spend the extra effort to pull the trans so that I could replace the RMS at the same time. I like working on my Jeep, but I much prefer to be driving it.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 06-01-2019, 12:58 PM   #15
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Yep... I hadn't noticed you had the pic uploaded now...
I'm gonna agree w LM on the location.... especially given the fact that you said it promptly leaks upon starting....
To go ahead and jump into full snowball mode.... might as well look into the clutch while it's apart...
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:29 PM
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That's what kind of kills me. The clutch was done by the previous owner. You would have thought the rms would have been done then as PM...
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Old 06-02-2019, 09:36 AM   #17
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Maybe it was and got messed up during installation.
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Old 06-02-2019, 10:17 AM
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True. I have no idea if it was.a home job or a shop so you never know. It's slow. I ran it this morning a bit and it just sort of seeps into a drip.

I saw the blue devil rms sealer. I'm assuming that's snake oil though.
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Old 06-02-2019, 11:20 AM   #19
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Additives could slow the leak but will aren't good for the rest of your seals and gaskets...
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
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True. I have no idea if it was.a home job or a shop so you never know. It's slow. I ran it this morning a bit and it just sort of seeps into a drip.

I saw the blue devil rms sealer. I'm assuming that's snake oil though.
Radiator sealant, transmission fix in a can, RMS repair in a can....all snake oil.

The only way to do the repair and have any chance of a lasting repair without unwanted side effects is to replace whatever seal/gasket that's leaking.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:50 PM
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So I finally got plates and drove it around a bit. A knocking sound emerged and my oil pressure was dropping down to about 10 when at idle. Driving it was about 40 still. Parked the jeep and no oil leak at the rear main seal.

Let it sit to cool down, checked the oil with the dipstick and it was a milky white mixed in with the oil. So probably RMS, knock noise AND head gasket..I'm going to go with time for a new engine.

The good news is a place near me will put in a used engine for around 850 (includes engine and install). I would almost rather get a new or refurbished one, but I don't have the 2G to drop on it at the moment, so used one in and rebuild the old one.
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:31 PM
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Actually, the ccv at the top, or ocv whatever, may have been shut. It wasn't on right so I'm wondering if that caused moisture to get in the oil.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:13 AM   #23
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Why is anyone suggesting pulling the trans to fix a rear main seal? Am I missing something?

Why do people think that a head gasket failure means a new engine? Am I missing something else?

Pull the head off and fix the gasket, why are you assuming a $850 used engine is going to bolt in and not have issues? What if the knock is caused by a dropped lifter? Or a stuck valve?

You need to spent more time under the hood rather than the drivers seat.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:31 AM   #24
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On the 2.5 the trans has to be pulled for a rms...

The OP felt that the combination of rms, head gasket, AND engine knock warranted a replacement engine.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:58 AM   #25
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On the 2.5 the trans has to be pulled for a rms...

The OP felt that the combination of rms, head gasket, AND engine knock warranted a replacement engine.
Oh.....
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Old 06-09-2019, 08:14 AM
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With all of this things combined with a slight knock that seems to line up with the piston slap theory, it might be better to just replace the engine for now, and rebuild this one.

If it was just a head gasket, that would be fine. I can do that. But the combo just leads me towards replacement.

You're correct though that the new motor may also have issues. It does make me a bit nervous but the place does guarantee it and let me hear it fired up first before doing anything.

My other thought is drive it until it dies and save up for a new or refurbished motor with a warranty.

Btw, since fixing the ccv at the top and an oil change, Ive had no more milky sludge. So that's one thing less 😀
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Old 06-09-2019, 11:21 AM   #27
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With all of this things combined with a slight knock that seems to line up with the piston slap theory, it might be better to just replace the engine for now, and rebuild this one.

If it was just a head gasket, that would be fine. I can do that. But the combo just leads me towards replacement.

You're correct though that the new motor may also have issues. It does make me a bit nervous but the place does guarantee it and let me hear it fired up first before doing anything.

My other thought is drive it until it dies and save up for a new or refurbished motor with a warranty.

Btw, since fixing the ccv at the top and an oil change, Ive had no more milky sludge. So that's one thing less 😀
If it has water in the oil and you continue to drive it, the lack of lubrication will cause its demise quickly.
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Old 06-09-2019, 11:57 AM
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Agreed. I changed it before driving again and have been monitoring. So far the oil has been clean.
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Old 06-09-2019, 12:32 PM   #29
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Short trip syndrome....
If the p/o let it set alot and or just drove it on short trips, the engine would never get hot enough to boil off condensation and cause a buildup of water in the oil
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:32 PM
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Could be that too. Either way,my biggest concern now is the noise. I'll post a video of it soon.

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