Water pouring in - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 11-17-2014, 08:30 PM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 64
Water pouring in

When it rains hard enough, water was come pouring out onto my feet. Coming from above my pedals. Anyone had this happen to them before? How to fix?

zacprows is offline   Quote
Old 11-17-2014, 10:00 PM   #2
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
jokerchief462's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Las Vegas
Posts: 10,092
Two things to check. There is a cowl vent drain on the passenger side firewall may be clogged. The preformed Flat at the bottom hose need to be opened and cleaned.

If not that then you may need a windshield cowl seal goes on the tub before you raise the windshield into place.

Both are relatively inexpensive but the cowl seal will take about 4 hours. The cowl vent hose will take 10 minutes.

__________________
89 2.5 TBI, 4" RC lift, 1" Booms, SYE, Adams Driveshafts front and rear, Ford 8.8 with 4:88s, BFG 33X12.50X15, and a ton of other stuff.

AF Jeep Club Tail Number 184
jokerchief462 is offline   Quote
Old 11-17-2014, 11:07 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
Alexlgperry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 200
Same thing was happening to me. I checked the drain hose and it was clogged. I cut the bottom 1-2 inches off and I haven't had a problem since then
Alexlgperry is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-18-2014, 11:03 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 222
What makes the cowl seal take 4h? I've never done it but was under the impression you just have to fold the windshield down and stick a new one on? What am I missing?
saberworks is offline   Quote
Old 11-18-2014, 11:13 AM   #5
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
jokerchief462's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Las Vegas
Posts: 10,092
Hardtop
__________________
89 2.5 TBI, 4" RC lift, 1" Booms, SYE, Adams Driveshafts front and rear, Ford 8.8 with 4:88s, BFG 33X12.50X15, and a ton of other stuff.

AF Jeep Club Tail Number 184
jokerchief462 is offline   Quote
Old 11-18-2014, 06:34 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
Raoul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The moral high ground
Posts: 882
Quote:
Originally Posted by saberworks View Post
What makes the cowl seal take 4h? I've never done it but was under the impression you just have to fold the windshield down and stick a new one on? What am I missing?
The old one has flattened out pretty good over the years.
A new one is at least a 1/4 inch thick.
I didn't want to bust my glass so I rigged a board with two rings across the windshield and ratchet straps around the roll bar.
Used a tamperproof T-50 on the roll bar extenders.

It was nervous white knuckle ratchet clicking to get that 1/4 inch back.
If you don't get the windshield back to the original position it can impact top fitment, door alignment, etc...

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_6269.jpg
Views:	625
Size:	227.3 KB
ID:	1658961

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_6270.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	225.3 KB
ID:	1658969

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_6272.jpg
Views:	902
Size:	226.6 KB
ID:	1658977
Raoul is offline   Quote
Old 11-18-2014, 08:01 PM   #7
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
jokerchief462's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Las Vegas
Posts: 10,092
4 hrs to remove the hardtop, drop the windshield, raise the windshield and then muscle it back in place.

I actually let it set a day or two before I also used ratchet straps and boards to get it back to the original angle so the hardtop and hard full doors were all lined up.

That's where I get 4 hours.

If it was the same seal less than an hour.

Trust me it takes time.
__________________
89 2.5 TBI, 4" RC lift, 1" Booms, SYE, Adams Driveshafts front and rear, Ford 8.8 with 4:88s, BFG 33X12.50X15, and a ton of other stuff.

AF Jeep Club Tail Number 184
jokerchief462 is offline   Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 07:10 AM   #8
Newb
 
pkturpin300's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
The old one has flattened out pretty good over the years.
A new one is at least a 1/4 inch thick.
I didn't want to bust my glass so I rigged a board with two rings across the windshield and ratchet straps around the roll bar.
Used a tamperproof T-50 on the roll bar extenders.

It was nervous white knuckle ratchet clicking to get that 1/4 inch back.
If you don't get the windshield back to the original position it can impact top fitment, door alignment, etc...

Attachment 1658961

Attachment 1658969

Attachment 1658977
Question...Did you gradually tighten the ratchet straps a little at a time or tighten all at once (both sides at the same time of course)?
pkturpin300 is offline   Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 09:16 AM   #9
Jeeper
 
Raoul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The moral high ground
Posts: 882
Well this is embarrassing.
Yeah, that works but five years ago I was young and dumb.
There is a much easier way.

1. Unzip and remove the roll bar padding (if you have any).
2. From the rear you will see a T-50 thru the roll bar into the end of the spreader bar. (it's 3.5 inches long)

With those two removed the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached.
I learned that you really don't want to mess with the Tamper-proof Torx bolt on top of the spreader. It is in a slotted hole and must go back in the original position or it will negatively affect door closure.

On re-install you may want to loosen the bolts where the spreader connects to the windshield to get the T-50 in the back lined up straight and started.
I always do a little on each side until tightened down.

My apologies to anyone who bought lumber, hooks and straps but, after all this is the internet damnit.
__________________
'90 YJ 4.2L Manual w/ fancy hubcaps
Raoul is offline   Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 10:00 AM   #10
Newb
 
pkturpin300's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
Well this is embarrassing.
Yeah, that works but five years ago I was young and dumb.
There is a much easier way.

1. Unzip and remove the roll bar padding (if you have any).
2. From the rear you will see a T-50 thru the roll bar into the end of the spreader bar. (it's 3.5 inches long)

With those two removed the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached.
I learned that you really don't want to mess with the Tamper-proof Torx bolt on top of the spreader. It is in a slotted hole and must go back in the original position or it will negatively affect door closure.

On re-install you may want to loosen the bolts where the spreader connects to the windshield to get the T-50 in the back lined up straight and started.
I always do a little on each side until tightened down.

My apologies to anyone who bought lumber, hooks and straps but, after all this is the internet damnit.
LOL.....well crap, I just returned from the lumber store! JK Thanks for the info. Ive got to change that seal soon!
pkturpin300 is offline   Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 04:30 PM   #11
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
Got it at last's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 1,462
I just used a couple pistol grip clamps instead of the 2x4 thing if you have them.

This link post number 3

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f290/9...e-2336075.html
__________________
'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Magnaflow Exhaust. BA-10, NP231, Adams front Diveshaft, SYE kit, 31x 10.5 x15 BFG KO's, 2 1/2" Rancho Spring kit, 1" Body Lift. RS5000x shocks, No emissions.

FSM Manuals https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0vfmk6jc5...v7lceZk7a?dl=0
Got it at last is offline   Quote
Old 05-30-2019, 06:05 PM   #12
bp1
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
bp1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raoul View Post
Well this is embarrassing.
Yeah, that works but five years ago I was young and dumb.
There is a much easier way.

1. Unzip and remove the roll bar padding (if you have any).
2. From the rear you will see a T-50 thru the roll bar into the end of the spreader bar. (it's 3.5 inches long)

With those two removed the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached.
I learned that you really don't want to mess with the Tamper-proof Torx bolt on top of the spreader. It is in a slotted hole and must go back in the original position or it will negatively affect door closure.

On re-install you may want to loosen the bolts where the spreader connects to the windshield to get the T-50 in the back lined up straight and started.
I always do a little on each side until tightened down.

My apologies to anyone who bought lumber, hooks and straps but, after all this is the internet damnit.
LOL!! The fact that you remember posting this 5 years ago is the amazing part!

Good stuff.
__________________
1992 Wrangler Sahara YJ
bp1 is offline   Quote
Old 07-21-2019, 07:55 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 28
I have the same problem: water pours in like a faucet from behind the dashboard when it rains. I have a new cowl seal, the cowl vent is clean and debris-free as is the cowl vent drain tube. I’m at a loss how/where the water comes in.
Critical Bill is offline   Quote
Old 07-21-2019, 09:20 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
Gottagofast's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7,066
The body seam across the cowl may need resealed
__________________
Currently in the stable...
97 tj 2.5 5 speed stock... 97 tj 4.0 5 speed stock....04 tj 4.0 auto 4" and 33's... 98 tj roller for future build... 94 yj sahara 4.5" RE and 33's... 92 yj chev V8 3/4 ton axles and 38's... Cj5,7,yj,xj,ex mud dragster turned woods buggy

TJ dash speakers that actually rock! Kicker sub and amp in center console
Gottagofast is offline   Quote
Old 07-21-2019, 10:45 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
rushwal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 346
__________________
1988 Jeep Wrangler 4.2 6 cyl, Weber Carb, Borla header and exhaust. Aisin AX15. Advance Adapters External Slave conversion. Pro Comp 51 D window Flat Black. BFGoodrich KO2 31". Currently fighting: The little things...

2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2017 Honda Civic Si Coupe
rushwal is offline   Quote
Old 07-22-2019, 06:15 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
Rubisean1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 100
There is a specific measurement from the top of the windshield frame to the rear of the tub.
I cannot remember the measurement but I found it on line.

Get this measurement right and your hardtop and doors will fit the opening as it should.

For some reason 68 and an 1/8 inch come to mind

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Rubisean1 is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC