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Old 11-26-2017, 09:22 PM
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Which yj would you buy?

New member here although I used to have a 93 yj. I'm back in the market and there's two near me (southern CA) where yj prices are stupid high.

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...358130063.html

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...328161406.html
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/...338199499.html

I know the last one is way different than the first two but it seems the most stock. My budget is right around 8k so would the last one be worth 5k and drop another 3 to build it the way I want or should I get one of the first two and which one? Thanks!

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Old 11-27-2017, 11:46 AM   #2
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I'm kind of into the last one. It is much cheaper than the other ones and like you said you have a decently blank canvas to do what you want to do to it.

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Old 11-27-2017, 02:04 PM   #3
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You might want to check other areas in So. Cal as well, and be patient. I drove to Ventura from Las Vegas for this '93 last June. $5800, 6 cyl, auto trans, new Bestop, clean, orig. paint, no rust or dents.



-

In Vegas, they are REALLY stupidly priced. $6k gets beater rust buckets or 4 bangers.
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Old 11-27-2017, 02:23 PM   #4
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Well, I look at this two ways - you can either save money on the initial buy in with a less-modified Wrangler, or you can save time by purchasing a rig that's already built (close to) the way you want.

Personally, I shy away from really modified rides. I've spent countless hours undoing previous owner "fixes" and "mods" over the years, and I've gotten to the point where I really don't want to deal with that anymore.

However, I'll tell you that the '95 Sahara would be snapped up around here in no time. You couldn't buy a clean stock-ish YJ and build it up for that price. If it checks all your boxes, I'd say you might want to look at it. It does have high miles, though (and the Punisher hood graphic and angry eyes headlights) so that may be a reason to pass.

The '94 is way too expensive, new engine or not.

You can buy into the '90 for less money. It will have the 258, NOT the 4.0L listed in the ad (unless the engine was replaced) and the AX-15 trans. It would be cool if the owner actually has the service records, but it's clear from the pics that the Jeep has been well-used. How many miles?

This may be one of those situations where patience and perseverance pay off. Shop around. Check out other areas nearby, keep your funds handy and be ready to drive a lot (and be disappointed). I looked for a Wrangler for a good 6 months and drove all over western Washington until I found mine.
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:52 PM   #5
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Check all three of them out real well.
Any rust would be a deal breaker for me at those prices (frame or tub).

Neither the '94 nor the '95 claim to pass California emissions. Not passing emissions in CA is another deal breaker at those prices.

All three have large tires with no mention of axle upgrades. Another thing to consider.

The '95 may have functioning A/C.

I agree with all that Jak Rak says. If there were no deal breakers (rust or emission or obvious mechanical faults) I favor the '95. Plus, the '95 should have an external slave and galvanized tub. And a back seat. You can peel off the punisher with heat.

The '94 with a 3K mile engine has an oil leak on the valve cover. No A/C

You need to do due diligence on any purchase. Let us know what you decide. Post some pics of the jeep you end up with.
You can even wait for a possible better deal on a different Jeep.

Good luck, L.M.
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:31 PM
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I ended up getting the 95 sahara. Paid 8300. Heres where I screwed up though. I was so in lust with it and motor sounded and felt strong with no leaks so I thought I would have no issues with smog.

It has a k&n cai so the smog guy won't smog it until k&n sends me a carb sticker and I have to fill out a bunch of forms online and send pics etc to get it.

Also, everyone and anyone buying a used jeep/yj read this. So when you turn on the ignition, the check engline light wouldnt turn on so the smog guy wouldn't touch it for that reason either. Came home, took the dash apart and a light bulb literally fell out, not sure if that was specifically the check engine ligbt bulb but when i put it in the bottom left of the clusters, my check engine light bulb came on and of course stayed on lol. Throws a code 12 and 41.

Not sure if the previous guy took it out on purpose to screw me but life lesson learned and hopefully others can learn from my mistake. I even watched the youtube what to look for when you buy a used yi video and those two things were never mentioned.

Other than that, it's super clean and hopefully those will be minor fixes

Are there supposed to be bulbs in all the spaces in the attached pic. The bottom left was empty as you can see (where check engine light bulb goes, at least that's where I put it and after i did that, it came on)
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:44 PM   #7
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I don't know about CA, but here in Colorado, if you sell a vehicle to a person that lives in a county that requires emission testing, you have to provide a current emission inspection certificate.
You may have some recourse from the seller if CA is like CO.

If you hold a flashlight behind the lens that you removed to expose those bulbs, you'll be able to see what the bulb is supposed to indicate when it's lit and if you need a bulb in that location.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 12-02-2017, 01:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
I don't know about CA, but here in Colorado, if you sell a vehicle to a person that lives in a county that requires emission testing, you have to provide a current emission inspection certificate.
You may have some recourse from the seller if CA is like CO.
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1...smogfaq#BM2537

Cali smog rules when selling the car, per the above link (about halfway down the page):

The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.

The inspection is not required on a transfer if a biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).


This sort of thing makes me very happy I live in a non-emissions area.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:15 PM   #9
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'94 must have sold. The ad is gone. What was the asking price/miles if I may ask, I have a '94, I-6, manual...

In WI where I live there is no smog testing, thankfully...

Nice Sahara.....
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:55 AM   #10
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'94 must have sold. The ad is gone. What was the asking price/miles if I may ask, I have a '94, I-6, manual...
I think the asking price was $9200. Insanely overpriced.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:05 AM   #11
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I think the asking price was $9200. Insanely overpriced.
Wow. You're right. It would need to be in excellent condition with low, low miles. No sign of mudding........ Unless, it had high buck mods.... Dang, I wish it was still out there...
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:25 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 94Wranglerette View Post
If u want post more pix of yours, front, interior, undercarriage. Just curious to see what goes for what in different parts of the country. I can do the same just to get different reactions. I've heard Colorado is the place to go to get lower priced nice Jeeps... They're over-run with them.. So I hear....
So you think???

Go to the Denver Craigslist. Maybe not SoCal prices, but I haven't found any bargains. I check every few days.
One good thing about local Wranglers is very little rust.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:47 PM   #13
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So you think???

Go to the Denver Craigslist. Maybe not SoCal prices, but I haven't found any bargains. I check every few days.
One good thing about local Wranglers is very little rust.

Good Luck, L.M.
Either on this forum or a YJ FB group I belonged too, someone from CO said there's guys that go out there and buy a bunch to resell further east, midwest etc... I'll have to check it out...
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:13 PM   #14
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So you think???

Go to the Denver Craigslist. Maybe not SoCal prices, but I haven't found any bargains. I check every few days.
One good thing about local Wranglers is very little rust.

Good Luck, L.M.
I-6 manual in good condition. Check out the engine compartment. Would go for more here...... Ur right about little rust.... Around here, a clean I-6, manual would be 6k +, lifted and wheels... Under 6k they seem to have a lot of rust. You can get a nice I-4 for under 6k..

I would give 6.5k all day...

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/...402736811.html
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:37 PM   #15
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Although nice, it's a 4 banger and too high for me...

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/...340033545.html
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:54 PM   #16
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@pavo
Oooops, posted this comment to the wrong person.... Hope I'm not hi-jacking your thread. I find cost vs location very interesting.....

If u want post more pix of yours, front, interior, undercarriage. Just curious to see what goes for what in different parts of the country. I can do the same just to get different reactions. I've heard Colorado is the place to go to get lower priced nice Jeeps... They're over-run with them.. So I hear....

As I research, I'm finding out it may not be the case in Denver....

I would changed the the drivetrain fluids so you can inspect gears etc. Are those 35s or 33s? And what gear?
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:06 PM   #17
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Here's pix of my '94 that I have on file. Just bought it late Aug. There is some surface rust on the frame where I'm going to POR15 the whole undercarriage. I bought it in N Mn. Never saw a winter. If it did, that frame would be total rusty......

'94 4.0 manual, 33s, 3.5 BDS suspension, 1.25 shackle and 2" body lift. What u see is how I bought it. Everything works, gauges lights etc....
Comments welcome, try not to flame too bad. Location, location, location.....

$6400
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