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Old 09-07-2016, 03:09 PM
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YJ dieing when stopping

I have a 89 Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 automatic transmission with 2bl carb with a manual choke and its dieing when coming to a stop. I've had it for 2 years and it's been like this since I've owned it it's very hard to start in the morning and is really rough idling and has squeaking noise when idling(when I can even get it to idle) if I'm on the gas it's ok but when approaching a stop sign once I get around 10mph it sputters and makes a squeaking noise then dies it's always been bad but just recently got worse when I lost my gas cap and I believe a little rain water got in the tank so I got a new cap and put some HEET in it a few days ago but still having the same problems any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 09-07-2016, 04:45 PM   #2
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Easy Fix for Jeep 258 Carter BBD Idle Problem

Thy this link, I think it may help.

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Old 09-07-2016, 08:01 PM
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Thanks for the help I'll give that a try here soon I need to do something I can't keep having it die around turns and intersections lol
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:33 PM   #4
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The link that Nubby55 gave you is a great link. Print it and use it. If you do it with the carb mounted on the manifold, just be real certain to not allow anything to drop down the venture into the motor. It's easy enough to remove the carb and do the job on the bench. The instructions don't mention that it is somewhat tricky to get the metering rods back positioned properly in the jets. Whatever you do, don't force anything, just use a bit of patience. The carb top should sit easily on the carb body if the metering rods are properly aligned.
A Chiltons or Haynes manual should have an exploded view of the carb. The Factory Service Manual has one for sure.

You mention a squeaking noise. Have you checked your belt(s)? The squeak may be unrelated.

Another source for a squeak or whistle noise is a leaking intake manifold. Once you get your carb squared away, spray some WD40 around the manifold gasket area and see if the RPM changes.

Good Luck, L.M.
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HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:54 AM   #5
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Have you done any kind of diagnosis under the hood? If not, I'd do some basic things like checking for vacuum leaks and checking carb settings before taking the carb apart. Since you state that it has been like this since you got it, the previous owner may have done some tinkering a screwed up somewhere.

Check all the vacuum hoses. Anything that is dry rotted, cracked, or loose should be replaced. Like Lucky said, spray the base of the carb with something combustible with the engine running to see if the gasket is leaking. Starting fluid is usually the best, but many other things will work.

If you can't find a vacuum leak, see if you are running rich/lean. With the jeep idling (I know it's not going to want to, you may have to bump up the idle speed screw or get a helper), pull a vacuum hose. If you get a slight RPM increase, your fuel mixture should be just about right. If it stalls or loses RPM it is lean. A big RPM increase is likely a rich condition. Pull a couple spark plugs too when engine is off and things are cool. This will verify rich/lean. A black carbon coated plug indicates a rich condition. You should be able to find pictures with google of exactly what is good or bad.

Finally, check your timing. I've bought cars in the past where the timing was way out, which will cause a myriad of issues. Too much advance will cause hard starting.

If none of that helps you, then pulling the carb may be the thing to do. There are probably some adjustments that need to be made.

The squeak is probably unrelated. Possibly a worn belt, loose belt, or a pulley that is slightly out alignment. Good luck.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:51 PM
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When I got it I took it right to my mechanic cause I needed an inspection sticker but when I started having the problems I told him about it and to go ahead and check for the problem and he told me timing was perfect carb was adjusted correctly belt was good and the only thing he thinks it could be was something internal with the carb, I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any and I've discovered that the previous owner(the one before the guy I bought it from) has screwed up many things with the jeep that I've had to fix but I'm down to the last problem and it's been eluding me for 2 years now. One question I have is, is it hard to do with the carb left mounted or do you have to remove it to do it correctly?
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Old 09-08-2016, 09:19 PM   #7
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FWIW...Anytime I have to work on a carb I take it off..set it down and immediately put some tape over the intake to keep stuff out. Like Lucy said takes some patience..you want to be comfortable, be able to get at from different angles, and have plenty of light. My .02
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:11 AM   #8
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Plus, it's easier to clean the carb while it's off.

To do the "easy carb fix" you have to disconnect the linkage anyhow. The only thing left is (4) 7/16 nuts that hold the carb to the manifold.
I use a 1/4" drive socket with a long wiggly end extension and a ratchet to take the carb off. The whole job takes a little more than an hour.
If a prior owner hasn't used Permatex or similar, you should be able to re-use the gasket. It's better to have a new gasket but then you have to buy a rebuild kit.

Good Luck, L.M.

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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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