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Old 05-14-2019, 09:39 AM
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Humbling myself to constructive criticism...

Hello, all.

Finally made it to the JKU realm. I've been dreaming of building a 4 door jeep since 2000 (yes before they came out). It's time and I'm trying to do it right. That said, I set my initial plan in front for all to see with the hope you'll help me fill in the gaps (and there will be some) because this Jeep is a complete reset of knowledge I thought I had from previous rigs.

Starting with a 25k mileage 2016 JK U R H R Granite (loaded right down to the painted fenders).

I have (not installed yet):
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor w/ Fox 2.0 performance series shocks n the fixins
The stabilizer is going back(reports of pull)
Spicer 4.88 complete kit
AEV front and rear diff covers
Plenty of hockey pucks
Committed to the Nitto Ridge Grapplers 37 x 12.5 x 17
2 PIAA Horns (low freq)
Mopar big brake kit in front(w/ booster)

Once this thread fades, will order:
Complete Chromoly axle set (Spicer?) all the way around
Fuel Zephyr Red Beadlocks or XD 137's, 17" x 9
JKS Flex Connects (w/ or w/out disconnects) I've decided to keep the electronics
Rock Krawler 2" Billet Aluminum Stackable Front Bump Stops
Scorpion exhaust spacers
Steer Smarts YETI XD Linkage Kit - Tie Rod & "No Drill" Top Mount Draglink
FOX 2.0 Performance Series ATS Steering Stabilizer
Rock Krawler 2" Fabricated Rear Bump Stops
TeraFlex Heavy-Duty Axle Sleeves & Gusset Kit
Teraflex brake kit in (Rear)
Adams front drive shaft
Ball joints (upper and lower w/out knurl)

I'm planning on this being a more then capable rig from day one, but wont see major trails for a couple of years. The master tech I'm working with is helping me out with his lift and time at home (returning a favor) for very little money so I'd be foolish not to get the work completed now.

Please let me know what you think as it applies to a rig that will see trail ratings of 6-7.

Thank you,

Jeff B.

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Previous: 2000 TJ *Bish* / 1997 TJ /1994 YJ /1987 XJ / 1963 CJ - 1st Jeep.
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:43 AM   #2
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You took a loan out to buy a giant pile of parts that you don't actually need for anything?

Damn!

Why? A completely stock JKUR can handle a whole lot. If you're not planning on doing anything major with it for a few years, why are you doing all this at all? Especially with money you don't have!

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Old 05-14-2019, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Weasel View Post
You took a loan out to buy a giant pile of parts that you don't actually need for anything?

Damn!

Why? A completely stock JKUR can handle a whole lot. If you're not planning on doing anything major with it for a few years, why are you doing all this at all? Especially with money you don't have!
Theres always one or two in the bunch, but did you have to be the first one? Please don't get back in line.

Ignored!
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Previous: 2000 TJ *Bish* / 1997 TJ /1994 YJ /1987 XJ / 1963 CJ - 1st Jeep.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:18 AM   #4
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I'm not sure what you mean by that. You asked for constructive criticism. I gave some.

Will your buddy not help you out if you do this in 2 years when you're ready to use it? The interest you'll save will mean you can do more.

If not, and the money you're saving on labour is more than you'll spend on interest then I guess it's as good a plan as any. Lots of that stuff can be done yourself without a lift though.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:54 AM   #5
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Looks like a good time. I dont have advice just a suggestion. Post some pics while your doing all the upgrades.


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Old 05-14-2019, 11:52 AM   #6
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My thoughts:
  • I'd install the gussets sooner than later, that's a lot of wheel/tire for 44 axles. Especially if you're wheeling. Might as well do ball joints while you're doing the gussets, the factory will fail pretty quickly.
  • You need to have rear axle shafts on your radar, the flanges are a weak spot. Our '14 made it maybe 20k (I don't remember exactly) before they bent.
  • I personally think the brakes should go on the same time as the tires.
  • Without an exhaust spacer the boot on your front drive shaft will fail the first time you wheel. It makes contact with the exhaust pipe when it droops and the boot gets melted, then comes off. Personally I'd skip the spacer and add a front drive shaft.

See how easy it is for us to spend your money

Good luck!!
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:58 AM   #7
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Sounds like it’s going to be an awesome build..congrats...

..I think the only thing you’re missing is this:

Carlashes for Jeep Wrangler JK (2006-2018) - Car Headlight Eyelashes - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1DN9GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7uU2CbYGGGKZG

Get that and you’ll be ready for some serious crawling..
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:06 PM
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[quote=Legobusier;34331917]Sounds like it’s going to be an awesome build..congrats...

..I think the only thing you’re missing is this:

[URL="Carlashes for Jeep Wrangler JK

Get that and you’ll be ready for some serious crawling.. [/quote]


LOL! Thanks for the laugh..
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:45 PM   #9
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Hi Jeff, congrats on the HR. You're definitely going to have a very capable Jeep with your build list.

I agree with @Blue Baby Sound ! He is speaking from experience.

1) Address the axles for the additional load you will throw at them, as well as upgrading the ball joints. I've had good success with the TeraFlex units.

2) Keep yourself safe, do brakes early on, and preferably before the 37's go on. The Mopar BBK is an excellent upgrade. If you go this route, the bigger Booster with not allow you to run an ARB twin under the hood. There are other options though.

3) Front drive shaft before you wheel it.

Enjoy the whole process, and share lots of pics


-Steven
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:51 PM
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Does anyone have any suggestions, advice or experience with Chromoly axles? Which kind should I get? Yukons, Spicer, G2.. do I change just the axles or is there a weak point that needs to be taken into consideration? Does it matter all that much when going chromoly, aren't they strong enough from just about any major manufacturer? I'm from the school that if there is a weak point have it in a place thats easy/inexpensive to fix. Thoughts???
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by FLEX B View Post
Does anyone have any suggestions, advice or experience with Chromoly axles? Which kind should I get? Yukons, Spicer, G2.. do I change just the axles or is there a weak point that needs to be taken into consideration? Does it matter all that much when going chromoly, aren't they strong enough from just about any major manufacturer? I'm from the school that if there is a weak point have it in a place thats easy/inexpensive to fix. Thoughts???
Here's the route I took. Ten Factory Chromoly. Northridge calls them axle shafts on steroids.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/a...essed-bearings

You have a few choices here. When I was upgrading, I called Northridge and explained/described my build and end use to them. This is what they recommended. Food for thought.


-Steven
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:11 AM
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Here's the route I took. Ten Factory Chromoly. Northridge calls them axle shafts on steroids.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/a...essed-bearings

You have a few choices here. When I was upgrading, I called Northridge and explained/described my build and end use to them. This is what they recommended. Food for thought.

-Steven

Looks like a good set up and I've heard great things about the customer service over there... I'm also being told to look closely at RCV and was thinking about going with the Spicer set up, but have yet to find out about over-all satisfaction. What can someone expect to pay with a moderately good discount on your set up?

Thanks for taking some time with a student,

Jeff B.
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Previous: 2000 TJ *Bish* / 1997 TJ /1994 YJ /1987 XJ / 1963 CJ - 1st Jeep.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLEX B View Post
Looks like a good set up and I've heard great things about the customer service over there... I'm also being told to look closely at RCV and was thinking about going with the Spicer set up, but have yet to find out about over-all satisfaction. What can someone expect to pay with a moderately good discount on your set up?

Thanks for taking some time with a student,

Jeff B.
Have the spicer front 4340 shafts on mine, did a install and review for the forum on them, found here: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f617/s...l-2339469.html
In general they are approximately 30-49% stronger than the stock shafts. Large delta is due to not knowing the stock shaft bill of material. U-joint is still the fuse. I like RCVs but I have been told the fuse moves to the gear set vs the joint. I think some rcvs come in 300m.. which offers slight increase in strength over 4340 but cost more to machine so hence the price jump. With what ever you do decide on can use your stock shafts as trail spares. Install on the shafts is easy to do at home.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:00 AM
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Have the spicer front 4340 shafts on mine, did a install and review for the forum on them, found here: https://www.wranglerforum.com/f617/s...l-2339469.html
In general they are approximately 30-49% stronger than the stock shafts. Large delta is due to not knowing the stock shaft bill of material. U-joint is still the fuse. I like RCVs but I have been told the fuse moves to the gear set vs the joint. I think some rcvs come in 300m.. which offers slight increase in strength over 4340 but cost more to machine so hence the price jump. With what ever you do decide on can use your stock shafts as trail spares. Install on the shafts is easy to do at home.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buildit View Post
Here's the route I took. Ten Factory Chromoly. Northridge calls them axle shafts on steroids.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/a...essed-bearings

You have a few choices here. When I was upgrading, I called Northridge and explained/described my build and end use to them. This is what they recommended. Food for thought.


-Steven
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Baby Sound View Post
My thoughts:
  • I'd install the gussets sooner than later, that's a lot of wheel/tire for 44 axles. Especially if you're wheeling. Might as well do ball joints while you're doing the gussets, the factory will fail pretty quickly.
  • You need to have rear axle shafts on your radar, the flanges are a weak spot. Our '14 made it maybe 20k (I don't remember exactly) before they bent.
  • I personally think the brakes should go on the same time as the tires.
  • Without an exhaust spacer the boot on your front drive shaft will fail the first time you wheel. It makes contact with the exhaust pipe when it droops and the boot gets melted, then comes off. Personally I'd skip the spacer and add a front drive shaft.

See how easy it is for us to spend your money

Good luck!!



Great info... Do you think it necessary / desirable to sleeve the chromoly axles?
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:09 AM   #15
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Great info... Do you think it necessary / desirable to sleeve the chromoly axles?
I think guesets yes, and mixed review on the benefits of axle sleeves.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:11 AM   #16
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Great info... Do you think it necessary / desirable to sleeve the chromoly axles?
2 different things; chromoly shafts increase the strength of the shaft. Gussets, sleeves (or truss) increase the strength of the axle housing.

I'm still running factory front shafts on our '14. Been waiting for them to break for 5 years but they're hanging on Running 37s for 80k and now 40s. The rear is another story, my shafts failed quickly in the rear.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:22 AM
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2 different things; chromoly shafts increase the strength of the shaft. Gussets, sleeves (or truss) increase the strength of the axle housing.

I'm still running factory front shafts on our '14. Been waiting for them to break for 5 years but they're hanging on Running 37s for 80k and now 40s. The rear is another story, my shafts failed quickly in the rear.

what level of off-roading are you involved?

Jeff B.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:25 AM   #18
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@wha t level of off-roading are you involved?

Jeff B.
Started off just a couple of times a year, developed into 6 or 8 times a year. Our '18 is mostly an overlander, the '14 is double duty overlander and rock crawler.

'18 JK



'14 JKUR

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Old 05-15-2019, 10:02 AM
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[QUOTE=Blue Baby Sound;34333435]Started off just a couple of times a year, developed into 6 or 8 times a year. Our '18 is mostly an overlander, the '14 is double duty overlander and rock crawler.


Roger that!!! I'll make this part of my decision making and great video.

Thanks,

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Old 05-15-2019, 10:58 AM   #20
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Nice choice.

I would get rid of the Scorpion Exhaust spacer you listed since your already getting a driveshaft.

Your probably a little bit over 50% life of your rear brake pads right now. I changed my rears a little over 35k as they were starting to squeal so you might want to do that sooner. If you want uniformity with your Mopar BBK, the Crown Big Rotor Kit should be out later this year (according to Crown) ... Mopar uses the Crown Rotors for their BBK.

Other than that, looks like you should be good. Feedbacks from users are definitely helping with your decision making.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:06 PM
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Considering the addition of RCV chromoly to the rear. Any strong opinions out there?

Thanks,

Jeff B.
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Old 05-17-2019, 01:03 PM   #22
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Considering the addition of RCV chromoly to the rear. Any strong opinions out there?



Thanks,



Jeff B.


I looked into this and only saw 300M rear shafts, which is WAY overkill. The front is where RCV shafts have an advantage (little to no bind when locked), but any decent brand of chromoly rear shafts are fine. If you have to choose, do the rear first.

Revolution offers a US made axle shaft, or Ten Factory are popular and seem to hold up pretty well.


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Old 05-17-2019, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loud0g40oz View Post
I looked into this and only saw 300M rear shafts, which is WAY overkill. The front is where RCV shafts have an advantage (little to no bind when locked), but any decent brand of chromoly rear shafts are fine. If you have to choose, do the rear first.

Revolution offers a US made axle shaft, or Ten Factory are popular and seem to hold up pretty well.


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Do both of those give life time warranty? I know the RCV's are more money and more than I'll need usually, but I haven't heard one bad thing about them.. and it seems "No one" has ever needed their warranty. I'm going to do all the ball joints and c gussets up front with the drive shaft but hold off on the front axles until they break.
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2016 JKURHR Auto, 3.5 RK X Factor(FA), Fox 2.0 Performance shocks & ATS, JKS Flex Connects, SteerSmart Top mount drag link & track bar, RK Pro tie rod, Adams 1350 front & rear drive shafts, Spicer 4.88s, RCV 300M rear & chromoly front, TF HD ball joints, truss, gusset & sleeve reinforcements, Mopar BBK front, Dynatrac 14.25 rears, AEV diff covers, 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Fuel Zephyr bead locks and so on...
Previous: 2000 TJ *Bish* / 1997 TJ /1994 YJ /1987 XJ / 1963 CJ - 1st Jeep.
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:45 PM   #24
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Humbling myself to constructive criticism...

Revolution US made are lifetime warranty including flanges and U joints. . Their non US made are 10 year warranty and the warranty doesnt cover bent flanges. I think ten factory is also ten year and not us made.

I just picked up the Revolution US made rear shafts today.


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Old 06-12-2019, 07:46 PM
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Update and changes...

Thought I'd let you all know, that I listened and let common sense have a vote in the process.


Putting in the front RCV's tomorrow w/ the HD ball joints. Today the front sleeves, gussets and (drum roll) trusses were welded in place.. Looks like they came out very nice. Cost me an extra grand, but should pay for itself easily.


Also, decided to do the Adams drive shafts immediately so, delete, no spacers needed...
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2016 JKURHR Auto, 3.5 RK X Factor(FA), Fox 2.0 Performance shocks & ATS, JKS Flex Connects, SteerSmart Top mount drag link & track bar, RK Pro tie rod, Adams 1350 front & rear drive shafts, Spicer 4.88s, RCV 300M rear & chromoly front, TF HD ball joints, truss, gusset & sleeve reinforcements, Mopar BBK front, Dynatrac 14.25 rears, AEV diff covers, 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Fuel Zephyr bead locks and so on...
Previous: 2000 TJ *Bish* / 1997 TJ /1994 YJ /1987 XJ / 1963 CJ - 1st Jeep.
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:18 AM   #26
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No mention of skid plates?
That's kind of a first step in my mind

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