Installation of Warn Zeon 10-S on a Recon - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Build Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Like Tree11Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 05-07-2018, 12:23 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Installation of Warn Zeon 10-S on a Recon

This thread will record the installation of a Warn Zeon 10-S on our 2017 Jeep Rubicon Recon Unlimited. The Recon has a Hard Rock style steel front bumper that is winch compatible. But some additional parts are needed.

The build list includes:

Zeon 10-S (I will use the aluminum fairlead that comes with the winch)
Maximus-3 winch plate for the Zeon and Hard Rock bumper
Maximus-3 hook anchor fairlead centering plate
- or -
Maximus-3 fairlead centering plate (powder coat matches bumper)
Maximus-3 Zeon trim filler plates (powder coat matches bumper)
Factor 55 winch lock (nut and bolt)


The Zeon 10-S might be overkill for the Recon. You will see companies like Rubitrux install the Zeon 8 or 8-S on high-dollar rebuilds, so it must be enough of a winch. I wanted a few more pounds of pull capacity, but didnít see a need to go up to the 12-S. It seemed the only difference was a thicker but shorter line, capable of the added 2,000 lbs of strain.

I chose the Maximus line of additions because weíve already put a M3 stinger on. I was impressed with the quality and how the powder coat perfectly matches the coating on the Hard Rock-style bumper. The winch plate gets good reviews, but does require the relocation of the vacuum pump to a bracket that is included with this plate.

My biggest concern about this installation was that it appeared I would also have to cut a rather large hole and cut out a hunk of the steel bumper to use the Zeon as a center-mount unit. Weíll see if that kind of surgery is really required as we get the bumper off and go to work on the fairlead centering plate. Iím not a mechanic, nor really mechanically minded, but I do know enough to measure twice - cut once, and to really think something/talk through before actually doing it. Iíve got the necessary (decent) tools, and will use right tools for this job.

Also, this build may take a few weeks to complete as Iíve injured my right arm and canít really lift heavy items. So Iíll be asking my brother-in-law, a burly firefighter to help, and timing depends on his schedule more than mine. I want it done by the end of June at the latest, but it should only take a day or two to actually install.

But, weíll start and you can follow along as you want, or subscribe to get notified when a new post is up. This installation wonít really help those who want to replace their bumper with an aftermarket.

Smidgeybilt and JLasher22443 like this.
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-07-2018, 01:13 AM
Thread Starter
  #2
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Pre-Work

Unpacking the cartons, I discovered that Maximus-3 has redesigned the centering plate and anchor hook plate, compared to the photos I saw on the vendor’s site. This turned out to be good news because it means I might not have to cut the bumper or drill holes.

After inventorying the parts for the winch plate and making sure I had the tools listed in the instructions, I went ahead and installed the vacuum pump relocation bracket. The factory location impedes the space needed by the Zeon and so the bracket will be cut out as flush to the frame as possible. Maximus provides a bracket with the Hard Rock style winch plate.

I’m not sure if I will like the hook anchor, or if I will upgrade to a closed system like the Factor 55 ProLink provides. If I do, I decided to buy a standard centering plate I can use to take the place of the hook anchor. Steel prices are heading up, so this was also an economic decision - pay now, or likely pay much more later if I change out.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ABC6CAC5-9715-4B81-B9E9-D287E7D44735.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	221.2 KB
ID:	4022890   Click image for larger version

Name:	E9DFA226-51AD-4F01-961A-3D321DB26D37.jpg
Views:	170
Size:	209.4 KB
ID:	4022898  

Click image for larger version

Name:	4010C131-9537-4C6A-A926-9494EA03B28C.jpg
Views:	177
Size:	225.2 KB
ID:	4022906   Click image for larger version

Name:	3547E764-E854-4CFA-B18D-C3847519CFFE.jpg
Views:	176
Size:	225.4 KB
ID:	4022914  


Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-07-2018, 12:06 PM   #3
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
87_WhyJay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mobile, Homeless, looking,
Posts: 865
Subscribed as you have the Jeep I have and are installing the Winch I want to put on it. Thanks. Will be watching and reading intently.
__________________
2018 JKUR Recon-Bright White/black
2018 JKR Recon-Granite Crystal Gray
2014 JKUR Bright White/Black (bought new Oct '13 TRADED IN July 2018)
1987 YJ Brown/Tan (bought 1999-sold 2018 for $8500)
1954 Willys Wagon (bought 1982, gave to father-in-law 1984)

Jeeps are BUILT, not bought!!
87_WhyJay is online now   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-07-2018, 12:50 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Looks like you're all set to go. Good luck! Even with a few hiccups along the way, it didn't take too long at all when I installed it.
Smidgeybilt is offline   Quote
Old 05-07-2018, 02:44 PM
Thread Starter
  #5
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
The new centering plate or hook anchor more closely follows the line of the Recon bumper itself, which tells the user which way it should be installed.

Note how one corner is very circular (blue), while the other follows the contour of the bumper (red line). Top photo shows the correct orientation; middle shows an incorrect orientation (upside down) and the bottom us unmarked - no drawn red or blue lines - in the correct orientation. The Maximus-3 hook anchor is exactly the same shape as this black centering reinforcement plate.

And compare the shape of the centering plate or hook anchor to most photos you see in a catalog or online.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Correct - Plate Alignment.jpg
Views:	183
Size:	217.0 KB
ID:	4023618   Click image for larger version

Name:	Incorrect Upside Down Plate Alignment.jpg
Views:	163
Size:	177.1 KB
ID:	4023626  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4444.jpg
Views:	168
Size:	222.5 KB
ID:	4023642  
Ducman likes this.
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-11-2018, 09:08 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
jku007fl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: South Florida
Posts: 559
Subscribed. I will be installing soon a Warn VR10-S on my Recon. I understand that it should be a bit easier since I don't have to relocate the vacuum pump.
jku007fl is offline   Quote
Old 05-11-2018, 08:19 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by jku007fl View Post
Subscribed. I will be installing soon a Warn VR10-S on my Recon. I understand that it should be a bit easier since I don't have to relocate the vacuum pump.


After it's all said and done, it really isn't that bad. Just a tight fit. I'm wondering if the different mounting plates allow for different tolerances/spacing. My second hand 10A bumper came with the omix-ada winch plate and I couldn't for the life of me figure out how people tightened the inner bumper bolts if they mounted the zeon first.

My issue was that the inner nuts gave enough clearance, IF and ONCE they were already threaded all the way in. Otherwise, trying to start them with the winch installed didn't leave enough clearance. The nuts were already touching the winch. I'm sure it could've been done that way, heck plenty of people have and I'm sure the OP will be able to as well. I need to take another look at the differences between the plates as now even trying to take the grill off will be a task.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Smidgeybilt is offline   Quote
Old 05-13-2018, 11:21 AM
Thread Starter
  #8
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Smidgybilt,

On your winch plate, were the mounting holes circular or elongated? In other words, could you slide the winch side to side with the mounting bolts installed loosely?
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-13-2018, 11:54 AM   #9
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
jadmt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: missoula
Posts: 21,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by jku007fl View Post
Subscribed. I will be installing soon a Warn VR10-S on my Recon. I understand that it should be a bit easier since I don't have to relocate the vacuum pump.
It is a piece of cake installing the vr10 on a recon with the maximus3 plate.
__________________
2018 Gobi Recon unlimited W/Mopar 2" lift coils combined with RK rear coils wedges, TF lower control arms, rear TF monster track bar and rear track bar bracket and Falcon 3.1 shocks, Cooper ST Maxx 315/75-17 on AEV Salta rims, Grabars, RE gas skid tank, mopar head liner, Warn VR10 and Maximus3 winch plate.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/y...i-2192385.html
jadmt is offline   Quote
Old 05-13-2018, 06:57 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine_Kid View Post
Smidgybilt,

On your winch plate, were the mounting holes circular or elongated? In other words, could you slide the winch side to side with the mounting bolts installed loosely?



Can't believe I took a picture of it but I found it! So there are two different sets of elongated holes and one set of circular holes (which I'm led to believe the previous owner made since those were the ones with no powder coating and were rusting. Lined up and loosely mounted I remember not being able to move the winch side to side which led me to install the zeon the way I did. If I remember correctly, the bolts threaded through a combination of those holes to be centered.

How's the install going on your end?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Smidgeybilt is offline   Quote
Old 05-13-2018, 09:16 PM
Thread Starter
  #11
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
I ripped up my right elbow pretty good two weekends ago, hyper-extending it tearing both muscle and ligaments. But not installing anything on the Jeep; just lifting something out of my truck bed using poor leverage. Thankfully no tendons were torn or blown, so surgery isn't necessary. But I've lost a good deal of strength in that arm for the next couple of weeks at least.

I've got a set of hands coming on the 19th, and we'll try to get this one knocked out in a day. What I can't lift, he can. Besides, he's better with tools than I am anyway and can't wait to work on a Jeep.

On the Maxiumus-3 plate for Zeon winches and the Hard Rock/10th Anniversary/Recon bumper, the instructions say to keep the winch mounting bolts loose at first. When reinstalling the front bumper, I'm supposed to be able to slide the winch side to side enough to get at the flanged nuts with a socket and universal drive (or two). Out of the way on one side to tighten up the bumper, then slide to the other side to get at the other bumper bolts/nuts. Once the bumper is torqued, then I center the winch and tight up the mounting bolts. That's the theory anyway.
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-19-2018, 07:12 PM
Thread Starter
  #12
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Well, I got the thing on, and everything was back together by dinner time. I will be sharing some photos in subsequent posts, but right now Iíll just do a quick installation evaluation.

Getting everything apart went fine. We took the vacuum pump ďwingĒ off with a grinder with no difficulty at all, then sanded and put on a good thick layer of paint/primer mix for rust protection. The winch plate itself (Maximus-3 for the Zeon) went in fine. Used some spare bolts on the front to hold it up while we got the back bolts torqued to the specified 66.5 ft./lbs. The Winch was put on, power cables routed, and then we ran into the roughest part - getting the front bumper back on.

The Zeon 10-S is a beast. And while the winch plate has oval holes that you think would let you slide it to get to the bumper bolts, the reality is they allow very little wiggle room. Donít drop the bumper flange nuts either, because theyíll disappear under the winch. It took a socket wrench, extensions, swivel joints and the socket - contorted in interesting ways, to tighten the inner nuts.

And do not remove the grill if you choose to install this winch. You wonít be able to get it back on if you do, and getting it off is an impossibility unless you remove the winch mounting bolts and get a couple of extra millimeters by sliding it forward.

Using a winch lock (like a Factor 55 security bolt) is a waste of money. Once the bumper is on, tightening the four mounting bolts is an excercise in patience. The bumper hides the front two bolts, making the use of a socket impossible. The cross member makes using a socket on the back two bolts impossible. Youíll be using a standard 15 mm wrench (we used a ratcheting wrench) and give your fingers and forearms a really good workout. Anyone who wants to steal your winch will be under there for a good 30 minutes trying to loosen the bolts, and the bumper makes it impossible to remove the winch anyway.

Probably the biggest disappointment was that the Maximus-3 winch trim plates do not work on a Recon. The nutserts (threaded rivets) supplied with the plates are too small for the holes in the frame. We nearly lost one when we put it in the hole just to test its fit. I needed a tiny screwdriver and needle nose pliers to extract it.

Pictures are next so those with a Recon can see how the bumper accomodates the fairlead and mounting plate (no drilling required).
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-20-2018, 11:32 AM   #13
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 640
The Recon front bumper is heavy, 96 lb. with the skid plate. Since the front springs are designed for that weight hanging off the front of the frame, I took advantage of the situation to use a Rough Country stubby modular front bumper/winch mount instead of the Recon bumper. This winch mount with the winch only added about 20 lb to the front end.
15anvil is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 09:31 AM
Thread Starter
  #14
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Okay, here are some photos so that those with a Recon can see what youíll discover as you take things apart. Iím not writing an instruction booklet, so if thereís something you want to know about just ask. If I have a photo that will help, Iíll post it.

First thing I did was pull the grill, which would come back to bite me later. It made pulling the plastic trim piece off easier.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	4BDF739F-4D38-4FE8-A81F-2E0CE120B5D8.jpg
Views:	200
Size:	226.7 KB
ID:	4037785   Click image for larger version

Name:	703D5C1F-CD28-4D43-9A41-46A997E223B4.jpg
Views:	157
Size:	227.9 KB
ID:	4037793  

Click image for larger version

Name:	14EFEB3D-78AA-428F-B0B7-58A2D16FB562.jpg
Views:	154
Size:	224.0 KB
ID:	4037801   Click image for larger version

Name:	428369FE-436A-405C-BC7F-23803A1EA604.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	225.0 KB
ID:	4037809  

Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 09:37 AM
Thread Starter
  #15
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Then I removed the stinger bar, and the cover plate the came stock with the bumper. This opened up access to the four flanged nuts on the inside of the frame, and I removed the removable bumper end caps to make it easier to get at the four outside flanged nuts. With the nuts off, the bumper was pulled and I could see the winch fairlead opening from the back for the first time. The license plate bracket (plastic) had already been removed, so it was just the plastic “Rubicon” cover that needed to be taken off. That was done by cutting the light metal star washers with a side cutter.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	B8F191F8-D368-4E10-A983-FB6385158401.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	227.3 KB
ID:	4037817   Click image for larger version

Name:	FF571B6B-2FA6-445A-9685-B071F6803C61.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	226.2 KB
ID:	4037825  

Click image for larger version

Name:	F48EB0BE-1FD4-44AD-A66F-147FFB60E64A.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	168.2 KB
ID:	4037833   Click image for larger version

Name:	CD8F188F-395E-4392-96CC-08840A4F2EDC.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	145.3 KB
ID:	4037841  

Click image for larger version

Name:	14AA5786-6737-4AAE-89E2-136E7B31AAA7.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	221.5 KB
ID:	4037849  
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 09:46 AM
Thread Starter
  #16
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Front end with the bumper removed. The mounting brackets for the stinger had been loosened, but left in plate. The vacuum pump is mounted and the forward mounting ďwingĒ was marked and removed with a cutting wheel. A couple of thick coats of spray paint were applied. While that dried we mounted the anchor plate and fairlead to the bumper.

I can tell you that taking a cutting wheel and removing a part of a vehicle that just turning 1 year old was a little nerve wracking. The person who drives it regularly didnít like it at all and had to go inside to avoid seeing the surgery performed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	319E09D7-D85B-4495-810F-A936FE0EA8A1.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	231.8 KB
ID:	4037857   Click image for larger version

Name:	1845074C-CB39-4C63-88FC-0D6638670C93.jpg
Views:	163
Size:	227.5 KB
ID:	4037865  

Click image for larger version

Name:	A08A157B-575A-4B14-93ED-57E845893A5A.jpg
Views:	151
Size:	136.0 KB
ID:	4037873   Click image for larger version

Name:	796449B2-0E50-47CB-8FAC-56E1C48ABCC4.jpg
Views:	159
Size:	215.9 KB
ID:	4037881  

Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 09:50 AM
Thread Starter
  #17
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
The anchor hook from Maximus-3 and the Warn aluminum fairlead bolted right on. One Warn bolt was almost a tad too short with the lock washer under the button head nut, but we got it on. No cutting required so long as you choose the low mounting position. If you want your fairlead more vertically centered, there are instructions for drilling a corresponding, correct hole above where the button nut is on the right side of the middle image.

I didn’t want to do that because the “Warn” logo portion of the fairlead would have come up above the hook plate and nearly been in contact with the bumper. If you use a symmetrical aftermarket fairlead (like a Factor 55) I could see the wisdom of centering it vertially. But it would be nice if that hole was already drilled in the bumper. Too late to change it now since the JK isn’t made anymore.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DDEDFA4E-3A29-4BE2-BFAF-96722F50FCA6.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	228.0 KB
ID:	4037889   Click image for larger version

Name:	0D810738-84CB-47D1-AB41-4ABD8F50F700.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	211.5 KB
ID:	4037897  

Click image for larger version

Name:	4EF69EA0-424A-452C-BEBB-5086FCCC4F88.jpg
Views:	164
Size:	222.9 KB
ID:	4037905  
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 10:00 AM   #18
Jeeper
 
jku007fl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: South Florida
Posts: 559
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine_Kid View Post
Probably the biggest disappointment was that the Maximus-3 winch trim plates do not work on a Recon. The nutserts (threaded rivets) supplied with the plates are too small for the holes in the frame. We nearly lost one when we put it in the hole just to test its fit. I needed a tiny screwdriver and needle nose pliers to extract it.

.
Agree, the Maximus-3 trim plates need improvement, also they don't cover enough I think.
I was able to insert the rivets by forcing it with a screw and 2 nuts. There is a video on the big video site, let me if you want me to PM the link to you.
jku007fl is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 10:36 AM
Thread Starter
  #19
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
With the vacuum pump removed and the mod made to the factory bracket, the winch plate can be installed. It’s lifted in from the bottom, trainling edge first and pivoted into place.

Temporary bolts (or a couple of stout zip ties, I suppose) throught the mount and the inside top hole of the bumper plates on the frame hold the mount in place. Key nuts and a bolt/washer combination hold the back end up. Torque to 66.5 ft. lbs.

The winch can then be placed on the mounting plate, and power leads run to the battery. With the mounting nuts slipped into place, the bolts can be inserted from underneath but not tightened down. At this point the winch line can be installed and, with power connected, spooled onto the drum with a few feet left unspooled.

We fed the end that attaches to the drum through the bumper/fairlead first, with the bumper up on a couple of sawhorses. The line was unwound to its full length to make sure we didn’t have kinks and, with good gloves, power was applied to spool it up. I did my best to apply resistance and also make the wraps tight, condensed and even. It didn’t come out perfect, but all of the line went on.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	BFEB6DEC-FA17-49F4-9E5C-F2BC455B32F5.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	225.6 KB
ID:	4037921   Click image for larger version

Name:	C30C289B-F964-4EA3-8188-1FC46FEEB4B6.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	186.7 KB
ID:	4037929  

Click image for larger version

Name:	D2759D23-A7A9-4234-AE7B-4C85571F195E.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	214.2 KB
ID:	4037937   Click image for larger version

Name:	22F185F2-7591-4FE5-B323-917223A895CE.jpg
Views:	153
Size:	227.0 KB
ID:	4037945  

Click image for larger version

Name:	F93530EE-2DC6-44F6-AB60-30BC802E767C.jpg
Views:	180
Size:	226.9 KB
ID:	4037953  
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 10:43 AM
Thread Starter
  #20
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
At this stage, things started to go a little haywire. In maneuvering the winch onto the plate, I discovered we had broken the braket for this plug. I have no idea what itís for, but the plastic bracket cracked. Not having a replacement, and not wanting the plug breaking free and banging around loosely, I zip tied it into place.

If anyone knows what that plug is for, please let me know.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	CD157E1C-56B8-401E-A4AF-9BEE0A0C6706.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	226.6 KB
ID:	4037961  
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 11:05 AM
Thread Starter
  #21
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
We then were ready to re-install the bumper, and the cursing began. I also stopped taking photographs.

I slid the reinforcement plates over the bumperís four bolts per instructions. We lifted the bumper into place and slid it into place, on an angle so we could get the inside flanged nuts threaded. We discovered that getting a socket onto those nuts required a combination of extensions and universal joints, and various combinations of lifting or sliding the winch from side to side.

Thatís only possible if you leave the mounting bolts for the winch loose, so off came the bumper. I also realized the Factor 55 bolt was going to be useless once the bumper was on, since you can tighten it with the bumper off, but canít tighten it with the bumper on. So it was removed and a Warn bolt installed loosely.

Then we got the bumperís inside bolts threaded on and were tightening them up when I realized the grill was still off. I had taken it inside the house so it wouldnít inadvertenly get scratched up or damaged.

It will not go on with the winch and bumper installed. So off came the bumper. Moving the winch to get the grill on, one of the four Warn mounting nuts came out of position and slid under the winch. More cursing.

Grill on, winch installed loosely, bumper on. Tired hands dropped one of the flanged nuts and it slid under the winch. Off came the bumper. We decided to us a bit of scotch tape to adhere the nuts to the socket. Worked like a charm. One nut required us to ask my 9-year old to reach down with the socket/nut combo to get it threaded on. Then all of the nuts got tightened down.

A socket canít be used to tighten the four winch mounting bolts. Standard wrenches are needed. I hate tightening nuts down on long bolts with standard wrenches, especially lying on your back reaching up into tight spaces. I have ratcheting wrenches, but not in metric sizes. Headed off to the hardware store to get one 15 mm ratcheting wrench. Thatís when the severe thunderstorm watch became a warning and it downpoured. Fortunately, my thinking wife went out and moved everything she could (tools, cordless drill, boxes) into the garage. But we came back to a wet tarp and a few items soaking wet.

Crawling back under the bumper, we methodically tightened down the four mounting bolts. One required me to remove one of the clip-nuts on the bumper used to secure the skid plate with its big bolts.

And the hard part was over.

Got a little more help from my brother-in-law to put the skid plate, license plate bracket and stinger back on. Installed the hook on the line, and reeled in the rest of the rope with the hook on the hook anchor.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	E6C6E979-B446-4020-BA60-762D2887481D.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	227.0 KB
ID:	4037977   Click image for larger version

Name:	1FDC8693-629F-48E4-8DE4-F0924657C5CD.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	226.9 KB
ID:	4037985  

Click image for larger version

Name:	9DABCDAB-0BEA-4665-A47C-344C9987EC4D.jpg
Views:	175
Size:	225.9 KB
ID:	4037993  
GunNut37086 likes this.
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 11:10 AM
Thread Starter
  #22
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
With the bumper end caps reinstalled, the job was nearly finished. The tox bolts that held the winch cover plate (removed) don’t have a nut to hold them in place. Today I’ll pick up four 10mm flanged nuts to make it all purty (pretty), with no open holes.

And I’ll be calling Maximus-3. The trim plates I purchased use threaded rivets (nutserts) and some supplied bolts to hold the plates in place. But the holes in the Recon frame where the nutserts go are precisely the diameter of the top flange of the nutserts, which spin freely in the hole. If too much force is applied, those nutserts will just drop down through the hole into the frame. I hope that can be remedied. Maybe someone at Rubitrux knows the solution.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	720F1EFE-9775-4E74-8F18-BEC6160AD4AD.jpg
Views:	163
Size:	231.3 KB
ID:	4038017  
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-21-2018, 11:35 AM
Thread Starter
  #23
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Quote:
Originally Posted by jku007fl View Post
Agree, the Maximus-3 trim plates need improvement, also they don't cover enough I think.
I was able to insert the rivets by forcing it with a screw and 2 nuts. There is a video on the big video site, let me if you want me to PM the link to you.
We tried that method. The problem I had was that the nutsert just spins and spins and spins. Itís ridges on the side are supposed to be just a little larger than the diameter of the hole, creating friction to keep it from spinning. But the hole was too large. I had one nutsert in there and the top was flush with the frame. Had to use a small screwdriver and needlenose to get it out.

A puzzle.
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 10:10 PM
Thread Starter
  #24
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
Solution to the riv-nut issue:

The kit provides M6 metric riv-nuts and an appropriately threaded pan head hex bolt (stainless steel). Ace Hardware had a STANDARD 20-thread riv-nut that was just slightly larger than the M6. A cheap threaded rivet gun/driver from Harbor Freight had the right size nosepiece, and made installation a quick, one-person job. The standard bolt was still small enough to fit through the mounting hole on the plate.

As a bonus, the small bottle of Rhino clearcoat paint I bought nearly matches the tone and color of the powder coating, which isnít a deep black. I painted the stainless hex bolt heads so they donít stand out in an obnoxious way.



Job is done.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	01854C19-204B-4788-9AB1-FDDC3DE75B25.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	221.8 KB
ID:	4040017  
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 07-01-2018, 02:08 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
GunNut37086's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: La Vergne, TN
Posts: 344
God bless you for taking the time to post this. It gave me a realistic expectation of what I was in for. I had been putting this off over possibly having to cut the bumper for the centering plate. So, when you reported that your bumper didn't need drilling/cutting, I made up my mind to tackle this upgrade. Thanks for that too.

I went with a Smittybilt X20, so I didn't have to relocate the vaccuum pump, making my install a little easier than yours. All-in-all this wasn't too bad until I got to tightening the 8 nuts that hold the bumper on. I could tight the 2 outside nuts on each side just fine, but the 2 inside nuts on each side where a nightmare!

There's no room to turn a wrench and there's no room for an extension. In fact, I couldn't even get a deep well socket into place due to clearance. Luckily I have some Kobalt sockets that allow the bolt to pass thru the hollow center or I'd have been screwed. I quite literally was only able to tight them 1 or 2 ratchet clicks at a time.
Alpine_Kid likes this.
GunNut37086 is offline   Quote
Old 07-07-2018, 12:23 AM
Thread Starter
  #26
Jeeper
 
Alpine_Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 345
They are a PITA to tighten, that's for sure. Thin walled sockets are apparently the way to go, connected to some universal socket joints and extensions.

Check your cable connections to the battery. My negative cable came loose and triggered the electronic sway bar disconnect light and battery idiot light on the dash, and would cause the cruise control to disconnect. And make sure they aren't near any belts or pulleys.

Happy winching!
GunNut37086 likes this.
Alpine_Kid is offline   Quote
Old 08-25-2018, 02:44 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 15
This thread was immensely helpful to me as I did this exact same installation. Thereís also a YouTube video which is mentioned above that is also helpful. I did a little something different though that I thought I would pass along as an alternative to the Maximus-3 trim plates. I took my existing plastic bumper cover and, using cardboard templates, I trimmed the plastic to fit around the winch. Some light sandpaper around the edges made it look like it was made for this use. Then using some new pushpins, I put it back together. Hereís a couple pictures. I hope this helps someone else as much as this thread helped me!Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1195.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	235.8 KB
ID:	4089261
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1198.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	222.1 KB
ID:	4089263Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1199.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	203.4 KB
ID:	4089265


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
87_WhyJay and Alpine_Kid like this.
quad_drive is offline   Quote
Old 08-28-2018, 11:12 AM   #28
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 74
Looks good! I love the creative solution reusing your factory trim plate to fabricate an alternative to buying the Maximus plates! That's more than a few dollars that can be used in a different mod or some gas for the trail.
__________________
2018 JKUS - Granite Crystal Metallic - Our Appalachian Build
2017 JKUS - Black - (sell back)
6SpeedBowtie is offline   Quote
Old 08-28-2018, 03:58 PM   #29
Supporting Member

5-Year WF Supporting Member
 
Hdhoo73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 83
Thanks for this thread! Good stuff to know for sure. Are the trim plates just aesthetic to fill the gap or do they serve some needed purpose?
__________________
2018 Firecracker Red Recon Unlimited (mostly stock)

2011 Mango Tango JK Sport - 6 Speed Manual, 2Ē Rancho Sport Lift, RS9000XL shocks, SRC Gen II Front and Rear Bumpers, Quadratec Q-9500is Stealth Winch, Custom Alpine Sound System, Quadratec LED Headlights and Fogs.
Hdhoo73 is offline   Quote
Old 08-29-2018, 10:20 AM   #30
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hdhoo73 View Post
Thanks for this thread! Good stuff to know for sure. Are the trim plates just aesthetic to fill the gap or do they serve some needed purpose?

99.9% aesthetics to fill the gap. But they do cover the mechanicals below the gap like the sway bar disconnect, the relocated vacuum pump, the area of the vacuum pump bracket that is trimmed off, etc. And they look a good deal more integrated than the Maximum trim plates.
6SpeedBowtie likes this.

quad_drive is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeepģ, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.