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Old 01-13-2019, 07:24 PM
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Making the B Pillar removable, JKU.

Like the title states I want to make my B pillars removable, the B pillar is what your front door latches to and the rear doors hinge off. I will make it so it can be bolted back in.

Things to consider. A full roll cage will be required as this mod will remove a main support for the factory cage. My Jeep has side air bags, the sensors and wiring will be removed so something will have to be done to delete that option. Corbeau XRS seats will be installed with harnesses so the seat belts are no longer required. The associated wiring with the seats and seatbelts will have to be deleted and any dash lights dealt with. I have power doors, I don't want any exposed wires, so they will be converted to non power. The interior trim will not be reinstalled.


1st. Remove everything in the way then tape up B pillar to protect the paint. Scribe lines even with bottom of door sill. Also scribe a vertical line as a reference so after you cut it you know how it should line back up.








On the inside build a jig so it can be bolted back in the same spot. Make the bolt holes the same size as the bolts so there is no slop.









On the inside scribe a line even with the top of the door sill. Also scribe some random vertical lines as reference lines. Note the 4", this dimension needs to be maintained. Its 4" from the top of the seat belt bolt hole to the bottom of the T shape where the top of the seat belt was connected. It's hard to see in picture, but at the 4" mark is a T shaped cut out where seatbelt retractor installed.










Here you can see the T slot easier.







Before cutting or unbolting anything be sure you have reference lines and measurements for everything. At the top inside of the B-pillar is a bolt, near that bolt drill a hole the same size of a Phillips screw driver. You will use this hole as an aliment hole, so when test fitting it back in you can make sure you bolt back in the same spot.




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Old 01-13-2019, 07:41 PM
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Now time for cutting. Make sure you have your dimensions and reference lines scribed in the paint. I recommend you actually scribe the lines so they don't get wiped off.


Also level the Jeep. I did this with a 4' level on top of the hood hinges and a 8' level across the top of rear tub, my hard top was removed. I leveled the jeep just releasing or adding air to the tires.


At top of B pillar is bolt on the outside, now on the inside there is a bracket welded. You need to cut between these two spots.







Now cut the bottom, I used a 6" cut off wheel on a grinder. NOTE: there is foam in the B pillar, it will BURN. It smokes a lot so you will know if it catches fire. Have a water hose handy and start blasting water through the cut if it catches fire. You will have some smoke, but any smoke that continues is a fire. There is a pipe that runs the full height of the pillar, but its not connected to anything below the cut line. The outside skin is a single sheet metal, the inside is double so you need to cut through both, but don't cut through the pipe. On the inside front corner of your cut will also be a spot weld that welds the outside skin to the two inside skins, cut/drill it out as required. Once you think you have the bottom cut out remove the top inside bolt from the B pillar. Now pull the top of pillar out and lift up, if it doesn't come out see where you still have metal connected at the bottom.
















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Old 01-15-2019, 07:32 PM
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Clean foam out of body, reach up inside both directions about 6+" and clean it out.






Also clean out in between this gap.






Cut spot weld here towards the front.






Use a body saw to reach down inside and cut out piece of sheet metal. Its just in there not connected to anything, it was not connected to B pillar post either. Clean out foam again.









Clean foam out of B pillar and cut pipe off flush with the inside cut line. It needs to be cut off and then welded to the plate that will be welded to the bottom of the B pillar. There are other ways of doing this, but the path I am taking I think is eaiser when it comes to fitting everything together and welding the pipe to the base plate that will be added.






Take cut off pipe and cut down it like this to remove the threaded portion. The seat belt retractor was bolted here. The thread is 7/16-20.

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Old 01-15-2019, 07:40 PM
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The inside sheet metal is doubled, I used a spot welder to weld them together in 8-10 places.





One little spark and foam is on fire. Would have been a good idea to wet the area down first.



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Old 01-16-2019, 08:05 PM
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Welded in a backing plate for the lower B pillar along with the original seat belt threaded sleave.








Also cut the middle sheet metal piece down some more, it made it eaiser to get the patch piece in.








In front where the double sheet metal the corner needs to be beat down to make room to be able to get the patch piece in.






The factory sill has a little ledge, I spent hours trying to perfect it on my patch piece. but my SwagOffroad press brake was at its limits trying to break that close together using the flat top so the angles were sharper. The patch is 3/16".








I drilled here so I could reach in and coat the inside with frame coating once its welded up.








Since I couldnt get the ledge right Im just putting flat plate in, which will be much easier in the end. Top side of patch and the bottom, the squares welded on are 3/8", they will be where I drill through and then thread them so the pillar can be bolted back on.




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Old 01-16-2019, 08:18 PM
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Plate welded in.






I broke some plate to make an angle and cut to match the inside shape.












Bottom part pretty much finished. Just have to drill and tap when I get the top piece in.










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Old 01-17-2019, 07:57 PM
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Sooo, anyone else gonna do this?





Fitting the pillar takes quite a bit of test fitting. You will end up with something like this.











The plates that will get welded on are two pieces. The pillar has a pipe running down the middle that needs to be welded to the base for strenght. Trying to line that pipe up and get everything fitted without using a two step process is very difficult. Below are the plates, one is flate on is bent. The notches are where the pipe will be welded, they dont look like they line up but thats how it works out due to a bend in the pipe.










So now the flate plate is tacted to the pillar, the piece of plate was broke to match the contoure of the outside of the pipe. Then reach in and weld it.













Fit the pillar back on the jeep and then tack the angle piece of metal, then weld it to the other half of the pipe. The fill both holes and weld everything out.






All most finished here. Just have to intall sleaves to bolt though and then drill and tap the base on the jeep. Im going to bed line it again so minor weld impercetions will disapear.










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Old 01-17-2019, 08:14 PM   #8
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very cool keep the photos coming. You have talent. I would not have the balls to do it. looks good so far.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:19 PM   #9
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Interesting thread - can I ask why are you interested in doing this? Just to do something unique or is there a different plan?
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:53 PM
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Doing it just to do it. I think it will look cool being doorless and not have the pillar there.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:37 PM
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Old 02-02-2019, 06:56 AM
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Few more pipes to weld in and about 50% welded now, finish tomorrow.












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Old 02-02-2019, 09:24 AM   #13
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welds look like art. nice
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Old 02-02-2019, 03:07 PM   #14
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Obviously this has been remedied with the full cage but is there any flex to the body with the B pillar removed??? Kinda like cutting the roof off a non-convertible.


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Old 02-02-2019, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derkperk View Post
Obviously this has been remedied with the full cage but is there any flex to the body with the B pillar removed??? Kinda like cutting the roof off a non-convertible.


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The body can’t flex anymore than the frame will allow. The plate I welded in is stiffer than what was there.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:15 PM
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Welded out, a few custom finishing touches left that I'll tackle during the week.

















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Old 02-02-2019, 11:16 PM
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Making the B Pillar removable, JKU.

The rear grab handles pictured above are angled in vs straight with the B piller to offer some knuckle protection, if they are used when they shouldn't be.

The front grab handles are welded to A piller and the A pillar cross bar, vs welding on the A to B bar. Keep the hand well inside. Does not obstruct view.











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Old 02-02-2019, 11:18 PM
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These plates are supposed to weld to the top of the A-pillar. But if you ever fold the windshield down the plates are left there sticking out. So instead I am going to weld plate in the open hole and install a threaded sleave that the windshild plate will bolt too. So then the cage will be smooth and the plates can be removed from the folded down windshield.






The mirror is blocked some by the V bars.





A random weld. X bar behind the front seats.

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Old 02-03-2019, 10:52 AM   #19
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interesting idea, but I have to ask, why make the B pillar removable if your still going to have a "B piller" in your roll cage effectively being in the way still? perhaps I am confused about your intended idea?
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:00 PM
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Making it removable because I think it will look good.




Once the cage was welded out I put the hard top and feedom panels back on, intalled the B pillars and the doors. It all goes back together like it should.
For the B pillars I took two of the threaded sleeves that came with the cage that were for the seat belts and installed them at the B pillar, one on each side. So there will be a 7/16" bolt on top and two on bottom holding the B pillar in place.
















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Old 03-16-2019, 02:03 PM
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I ordered Corbeau XRS seats with harnesses. Should have ordered two and test fit them first. They arent going to work in the back. The X brace takes up a lot of rear leg room, which I knew, but the XRS seat cousion is longer than the factory seats and really cuts down even more on the leg room. The biggest issue is the seat hight though. They are too tall, it puts the passengers heads very close to the rear upper cross bar, I think this cross bar is in a bad spot, should have been put a couple inches back or bowed up like the B pillar cross bar does. Im either going to install the factory rear seats or the Corbeau bench seat, but its only 42" wide, a little narrow. I'll use the extra XRS seats for my M715 project.
Mounting the wetsounds sound bar on the C pillar cross bar is also close to the passengers heads. But I rearly have back seat passengers so going a head and mounting it there. I do not recommend this if you use the back seats much.
For mounting the sound bar I took some heavy wall 1/8" pipe and drilled it out to tap 5/16-18" threads, then welded them into the roll bar.






I took some scrap metal left over from some skid plate and cut some brackets for mounting a jack. Like I said I forgot to take some pics, but I'll show it all once its all back together.




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Old 03-16-2019, 02:07 PM
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This is Genright cage with all the options, In my research no one could say what it weighs. It weighs 232lbs, plus 34lbs of brackets and hardware that install in the Jeep, so total cage weight is 266lbs. The factory cage, just the metal weighs 90lbs. I still have to weigh all the seatbelts, trim and other peices that I have removed, minus what I add back in like 5pt harnesses and wetsounds sound bar to see what the end result is, Im guessing that the total weight removed from the Jeep will be around 150lbs.


If you plan to assemble this cage, expect half day to most of the day to install all the brackets in the Jeep, 2hrs of cleaning and prepping all the tubes, 1-2hrs prewelding holes and sleeves plus 2-3hrs to tac everything up. TIG welding will take 7-9hrs of stright welding, a little over 2lbs of filler rod and about 150cf of argon. Most of the cage can be assembled with two people, the X-bars takes three people. Getting the cage in and out of the Jeep takes a tractor with forks, an over head crane with at least 12' of head room or 4-6 people. Taking the spare off and letting air out of the tires helps. Cutting the B pillars off really makes it easier.






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Old 03-16-2019, 02:19 PM
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This post is going to be about the electrical so skip if not interested.


I wanted a clean interior since all the trim except around the windshield is gone. Cut about 20 studs off that hold wires and trim on, masked off what I needed and had to bedline the areas that I didnt orginally bed line becuase they were coverd with trim.

I counted 73 wires on the inside of the Jeep, then I found a few more so call it just shy of 80 wires inside. Mine had the side air bags and upraded sound system so there were extra wires for those.

If it wasn't needed I cut it out. I got down to 21 wires that were needed. Under the battery tray is a factory electrical pass through, I used that to run my 21 wires out of the tub and under the Jeep and down the right frame to the back. 8 of them were for the sub, a power, remote and two audio for the sound bar the rest were for the tail lights and rear gate. I kept my front power windows and locks and the rear power lock.




My Jeep is a 2016 JKU, wire colors could change for different years. Don't use this as a how too for you, its just what worked for me. Research SRS systems and how they work.


I had to buy a Foxwell 630 Elite to be able to read and reset SRS codes. I couldn't exactly find anywhere what I needed to do to make the SRS happy, but I knew it was all about resistance. So lots of trial and error. This is not a 100% how too, I'll tell ya some of that I had to do to make the SRS happy made no sense, half I knew what I was doing, half was guess work. Lots of code reading and resetting.


I had 10 SRS error codes. Each front seat belt retractor, seat belt latch, airbag sensor, and airbags have a pair of wires. The driver seat has a hall effect sensor. The passenger has a seat occupant sensor and seat belt latch pretensioner. That's 22 wires associated with the front seats.

The Driver seat:
The hall effect sensor read 4.29Mohm, I used a 620ohm resistor to get rid of this code, Im sure you could go much higher and still make it happy, these wires were blue with white stripe and blue with purple stripe.








The belt retractor I used a 2.2ohm, these wires were green with dark green and green with yellow.


The air bag sensor read 0.953 Mohm, for this I just reinstalled the sensor to get rid of the code. I'll either get a big enough resistor or just leave the sensor pugged in and hide it under the center console, thats where the SRS module is. These wires are green with brown and green with peach.








The air bag itself I used a 2.2ohm, the wires are green with white and green with redish orange.


The seat belt latch is black and green with faint pink. To get rid of the seat belt dash light just ground the green wire to one of the ground studs on the trans tunnel.

Passenger seat:
Belt retractor is 2.2ohm Blue with yellow stripe and blue with green stripe.
air bag sensor I did the same as driver seat. Its brown with green and peach with green


air bag is 2.2ohm, blue with white and blue with red.
seat belt pretensioner is 2.2ohm, only the passenger seat has this pretensioner. blue with yellow and blue with green. These wires are the same color as the air bag sensor, so dont mix them up.


Occupant sensor. Installing a 620ohm resistor will make the code go away and you wont get a seatbelt light. But as far as I understand the front passenger air bag will not deploy because now the SRS thinks no one is sitting there but the sensor is plugged in. So I want to make it so the SRS always thinks someone is sitting there. I just tied the wires together.


Well now that the Occupant sensor says someone is sitting there the passenger seat belt light will come on because the belt is not buckled in. It took 620ohm across the passenger seat belt latch wires to make the light go out.


So with all this the SRS thinks all sensors are plugged in, and there are two front occupants with their belts buckled. All of this was so the SRS would be happy, have no dash lights or dings and the front air bags still work.


The short cut is to remove the SRS module, its fuse and remove the dash lights for seat belts and SRS. You may still end up with a seatbelt chime or warning on the dash read out.
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:23 PM
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B pillar mount with holes drilled and tapped.









B pillers, cut studs off, smoothed and filled holes and bed lined. I bed lined like I did for looks and protetion since these will get moved around.













Wet sounds 21" powered sound bar. When I first tested this using my phone it was very flat, only had highs. Once I plugged into Jeep audio it improved a lot, still needs the sub to pick up some lows, but it does well. This is the powered version, its much louder than the front speakers, I think the non powered version would have been just fine. I had to fade too the front speakers a lot to get the sound level right. I ran the wire down the outisde of the tubing using welded on washers to hold the wire, then went inside the rear fender and ran wire to back right tail light for hook up. My Jeep had the updraged sound system and the sound bar had 4 speakers. I took the two right channels and played with the wiring till it sounded the best. I did not worry about a left and right channel on the sound bar since its so short.



















And a jack mount








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Old 03-16-2019, 02:41 PM
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Finished my bumper and mostly done with everything associated with the cage install. Have figure out what to do with the back seats still, I have tried 3 different seats, dont like the way any of them fit.






















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Old 03-16-2019, 03:08 PM
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Making the B Pillar removable, JKU.

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Old 03-16-2019, 03:11 PM
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The winch is a 12K Zeon Platinum, I chose it for its wireless function, don have to reach in grill to operate a clutch. There is a switch to turn on and off the wireless function on winch. I just reach in and turn winch on before going wheeling. I leave it on all weekend so it’s always ready to go. Just have to turn on remote to use it.







I pushed radiator back 1.5”, cut 5.75” off frame and moved a bunch of stuff. Lots of test fitting.


The bumper started out as $40 scrap steel from recycle yard.














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