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Old 05-31-2017, 10:20 AM
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97 TJ Sahara 5.3 LM7 Swap

I recently purchased a 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ Sahara 4.0 for two reasons. (1) I really like Jeeps and their ruggedness and (2) I want to do an engine swap. Iíll also do some cosmetic and suspension improvements as well. This forum is a great source of information and I draw on the vast amount of experience here.

First, as for timing, Iím sure it will be slow going. Right now, I have another engine that Iím building and need to get through that one first before tackling the Jeep.

Second, I am not a mechanic and have little experience with this type of endeavor. However, I am ambitious and driven. If I set my mind to something, I will get it done.

Therefore, I am sure I will be asking a ton of questions from you, the experts.

Over Memorial Day weekend, I pulled a 5.3 out of a wrecked 2003 Chevy Tahoe along with its transmission. I believe the transmission is the 4L60E, but not 100%. Iíll find out soon enough. I had never pulled an engine and it was quite an experience.

Okay, the first question: Should I use the transfer that came attached to the 4L60E or use the one thatís currently in the Jeep and find an adapter?


Thanks,
Ted

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Old 06-01-2017, 08:57 PM   #2
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quite the undertaking

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Old 06-03-2017, 10:31 PM
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Anyone able to help me:

Should I use the transfer that came attached to the 4L60E or use the one thatís currently in the Jeep and find an adapter?
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Old 06-04-2017, 02:53 PM   #4
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The Tahoe tcase might be push button 4wd, no connection to the tcase with a lever. I would buy an adapter or use a S10 NP231 front half with the Jeep NP231 rear half or find a NP241 out of a late model Chevy truck. 92-94 or so.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:08 AM   #5
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Depends on the transfer case. What did it come with? I'm sure push button actuator insertion can be adapted, or just go with push button if it has 4LO ability. NP241OR would be nice. Atlas. Regardless, Advance Adapters is where you want to start.
AdvanceAdapters.com | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:47 PM   #6
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You can put a np241c on the end of that 4l60e or you can get an adapter from Novak or maybe AA if the sell one, and put the np231 on the end of it. If you want to run factory gauges, I'd recommend the adapter rout. It's expensive up front, bUT will keep you from having to install a device from Dakota digital. I haven't gotten to the latter idea yet.
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:50 PM   #7
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There was someone that put a speedometer and ring on the 4l60e tailshaft between the transfer case though. That way you don't have to worry about telling the transmission you're in 4wd and it will shift properly no matter 2wd or 4wd. So either do thst, or go with the Novak adapter for your np231 in the jeep.

Edit: it looks like laggy suggested advance addapters, so I guess they do make adapters for transmission
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Old 06-07-2017, 03:31 PM
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I snapped a pic of the label on the transfer case that came out of the Chevy (see attached image). BW4482? Is that what it is?

This is all new to me; I'm still learning. I'll have to research the different transfer cases and adapters suggested. I'm pretty sure the Chevy had a push-button 4WD as opposed to a lever. I prefer to leave the Jeep dash/gauges the same. I don't know what transfer case is in the Jeep now.

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Old 06-08-2017, 10:06 PM
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I can't see the image that I linked. Trying again.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1...mhyMDNodk00SWc
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:00 PM   #10
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It's a fulltime 44-82...http://jameshalderman.com/images/T_C...chart_BW_2.pdf

Jeep most likely has an NP231j

You're either gonna wanna stick with the 231j thats in there, go with a part-time np205, or Atlas if you want burly. Atlas is a fairly common unit that goes in jeeps. But this is based off of their tranny setups (ax15, nvXXX, etc.)
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:48 PM
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You're either gonna wanna stick with the 231j thats in there, go with a part-time np205, or Atlas if you want burly.
Which option did you go with on your build?
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Old 06-10-2017, 02:20 PM   #12
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Honestly, I don't see why an np231 isn't up to the task. It's a workhorse. It's an inexpensive route because you already have it. You can get a variety of SYE's to accommodate double cardan driveshafts for a sky high lift. Parts availability is high. You can keep your stock shifter, and get a nice Saavy cable shifter!

If you're made of money, you could source a Rubicon 241OR Rock Trac 4:1. But with all the power of your swap 275/300+, i don't see the need for 4:1 crawl ability.

I totally forgot that Novak makes excellent adapters so you can clock for fitment issues.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/...e-to/kit-4l61/

Here's a good writeup on np231.
The Novak Guide to the New Process / New Venture Gear 231 Transfer Case
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Old 06-10-2017, 06:58 PM   #13
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chevy 242 out of a 97 tahoe is what I'm using. No adapter needed. Same thing as a 231 but with 6 gear planetary. Late 90's GM with floor shifted 4x4 is what your hunting. And you can buy a SYE kit for them too... cheapest easiest route imho.
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:40 AM   #14
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Then there's that...
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Old 06-11-2017, 10:45 AM   #15
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i used the front half of a 231c from a 4wd s-10 blazer and the back half of my 231j. The 231c is stronger with 6 gears and a bigger chain. Bolts right up and i added a super short shaft sye from Adams driveshaft.
only difference is that my swap is with a 5.7 tbi with 700r4
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Old 06-12-2017, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
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Honestly, I don't see why an np231 isn't up to the task. It's a workhorse. It's an inexpensive route because you already have it. You can get a variety of SYE's to accommodate double cardan driveshafts for a sky high lift. Parts availability is high. You can keep your stock shifter, and get a nice Saavy cable shifter!

If you're made of money, you could source a Rubicon 241OR Rock Trac 4:1. But with all the power of your swap 275/300+, i don't see the need for 4:1 crawl ability.


Since I'm quite green at this, I think I'll stick with the stock transfer case. I'll look for an adapter. I'm certainly not made of money, so I need a less expensive solution.

About slip yoke eliminators, is this a necessary piece? I've heard it absolutely is, but since I'm new to Jeep ownership, I don't have personal experience with it.
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Old 06-12-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Scotch737 View Post
chevy 242 out of a 97 tahoe is what I'm using. No adapter needed. Same thing as a 231 but with 6 gear planetary. Late 90's GM with floor shifted 4x4 is what your hunting. And you can buy a SYE kit for them too... cheapest easiest route imho.
Did you find a used 242 and mate it with your existing 231? That's an interesting option.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:44 PM   #18
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Did you find a used 242 and mate it with your existing 231? That's an interesting option.
No I just used the whole NP 241 case itself My bad on the 242, I've owned 5 jeeps lol Its stuck in the brain.Anyways the Chevy 241 is a direct bolt in to a 4wD transmission provided you grab the little 2 inch thick OEM adapter off the back. They were used in Tahoe's and other GM trucks with floor shifters from 97-2000 ish bolted to the back of a 4L60E And it's driver's side drop.

And you can go here for the SYE kit. These guys have amazing customer support and good parts.

JB Conversions, Inc.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:47 PM   #19
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chevy 242 out of a 97 tahoe is what I'm using. No adapter needed. Same thing as a 231 but with 6 gear planetary. Late 90's GM with floor shifted 4x4 is what your hunting. And you can buy a SYE kit for them too... cheapest easiest route imho.
I meant to type 241.. It's a NP 241
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Quote:
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Did you find a used 242 and mate it with your existing 231? That's an interesting option.
No I just used the whole NP 241 case itself My bad on the 242, I've owned 5 jeeps lol Its stuck in the brain.Anyways the Chevy 241 is a direct bolt in to a 4wD transmission provided you grab the little 2 inch thick OEM adapter off the back. They were used in Tahoe's and other GM trucks with floor shifters from 97-2000 ish bolted to the back of a 4L60E And it's driver's side drop.

And you can go here for the SYE kit. These guys have amazing customer support and good parts.

JB Conversions, Inc.
I've got the same transfer case. What are you doing for the shifter?
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Old 06-21-2017, 09:35 PM
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Am I going to be able to get the stock gauges to work with this swap?
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Old 06-22-2017, 12:53 PM   #22
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From what I've read, yes, but you'll have to keep the Jeep ECU as well as the GM one. And you'll need a certain module from Novac (I think they're the only ones that offer it) to get the tachometer to work.
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Old 07-06-2017, 01:44 PM
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Chevy 241 is a direct bolt in to a 4wD transmission provided you grab the little 2 inch thick OEM adapter off the back. They were used in Tahoe's and other GM trucks with floor shifters from 97-2000 ish bolted to the back of a 4L60E. And it's driver's side drop.
I found a yard in my area where I can pick up an NP241c out of a Tahoe for $150. I'll make sure to get the OEM adapter that came with the Tahoe. The adapter from Novak for the Jeep 231 is $600.
What did you mean by it's driver's side drop?


Did you have to get new drive shafts with this setup?
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Old 07-06-2017, 01:46 PM
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With the 4l60e set up, what needs to be done about a shifter? Chevy uses column mount, Jeep uses floor mount.
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Old 07-07-2017, 10:25 PM   #25
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The stock TJ shifter can be modified to work, it's a cable set up. But I'm using the Winter's /ArtCarr Shifter in my build. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wpp-177-1/overview/

There are many options for aftermarket shifters. Budget friendly. Lot's of people are running the 12-14" Lokar shifters as well. Makes it look like a manual to the untrained eye. The winter's shifter is what I see mostly in these swaps, especially on race rigs I've seen. It's easy to shift, it's a gated factory design. And it's pretty stout.

Driver's side drop means the front output of the transfer case is on the driver's side of the vehicle.

The driveshaft question would be hard to answer. I will say 80% sure that yes you will need new driveshafts. The LS/4L60E is actually shorter in over all length than the stock 4.0 auto setup. I'm pretty sure the yokes on the 241c are 1310. But I went with 1350 CV front and rear.
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:01 PM
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The stock TJ shifter can be modified to work, it's a cable set up. But I'm using the Winter's /ArtCarr Shifter in my build. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wpp-177-1/overview/

There are many options for aftermarket shifters. Budget friendly. Lot's of people are running the 12-14" Lokar shifters as well. Makes it look like a manual to the untrained eye. The winter's shifter is what I see mostly in these swaps, especially on race rigs I've seen. It's easy to shift, it's a gated factory design. And it's pretty stout.

Driver's side drop means the front output of the transfer case is on the driver's side of the vehicle.

The driveshaft question would be hard to answer. I will say 80% sure that yes you will need new driveshafts. The LS/4L60E is actually shorter in over all length than the stock 4.0 auto setup. I'm pretty sure the yokes on the 241c are 1310. But I went with 1350 CV front and rear.

Thanks again for the feedback. I picked up the 241c TC on Friday. I'll look into the shifters you mentioned.
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:25 PM   #27
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I have a 5.3 in a 97. I'm having a ton of exhaust heat in the cabin. No carpet only rhinolined. Has anyone else came across a fix for this?
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:06 AM   #28
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I have a 5.3 in a 97. I'm having a ton of exhaust heat in the cabin. No carpet only rhinolined. Has anyone else came across a fix for this?
I get heat so much that it starts burning my feet out here in Phoenix. My transfer case thru-hole vents an enormous amount of heat.

Honestly, i'm about to try some kind of underside lining. Cool-mat is pretty nice. Mylar and foil with insulation. I've used reflective insulation on bikes. Undertail exhaust sport bikes face pretty serious potential damage to ECU's without it.

CSI 25070 Heat Shield Insulation: 4 ft x 6 ft
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:42 AM   #29
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Thanks Laggy I'll have to look into that.

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Old 07-12-2017, 10:43 AM
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I have a 5.3 in a 97. I'm having a ton of exhaust heat in the cabin. No carpet only rhinolined. Has anyone else came across a fix for this?
Something else I need to consider. I was originally going to just spray bedliner in the tub and install seats. The heat you've mentioned makes me re-think that.
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