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Old 09-25-2015, 09:06 PM   #61
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Wouldn't you base your calculations on 5 wheels and tires since you have a spare?

Killer looking LJ by the way.

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Old 09-25-2015, 09:35 PM   #62
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Great build! Very nice rig!

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Old 09-28-2015, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCLs2FLY View Post
Wouldn't you base your calculations on 5 wheels and tires since you have a spare?

Killer looking LJ by the way.
I split the tires up as:

Sprung (Spare) 1 @ 2.4lbs
Unsprung (Tires on the ground) 4 @ 2.4 lbs = 9.6lbs
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:48 AM   #64
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Just curious about the effects of loosing all this weight. Did you gain any lift, quicker acceleration, better overall speed and/or better mpg? Just wondering why you are going to such great lengths to reduce as much weight as possible.
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Old 09-28-2015, 10:17 AM
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Just curious about the effects of loosing all this weight. Did you gain any lift, quicker acceleration, better overall speed and/or better mpg? Just wondering why you are going to such great lengths to reduce as much weight as possible.
Gained back:

- approximately 1/2" of lift front and rear
- noticeable gain in acceleration
- more responsive handling
- improved braking
- gets over obstacles off-road easier

Of course its not quantifiable, with the exception of the lift increase, but I've been driving this thing long enough to know when it feels different. A 500 lb reduction in weight makes it perform better, of that I'm sure!
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Old 09-28-2015, 10:58 AM   #66
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Gained back: - approximately 1/2" of lift front and rear - noticeable gain in acceleration - more responsive handling - improved braking - gets over obstacles off-road easier Of course its not quantifiable, with the exception of the lift increase, but I've been driving this thing long enough to know when it feels different. A 500 lb reduction in weight makes it perform better, of that I'm sure!
I'm sure! We all know our jeeps well enough to know when even the slightest noise is off. I can't even think of shedding off 500+ pounds on a vehicle that is already so light. This would be a good project for me too, as I have a 4 cyl with 33s and it's not too bad but it could be better in my opinion. Thanks for the quick reply!
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:10 AM
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Made several trips to Rausch, and other places, over the Summer and had a blast with the Jeep. Two big things surfaced as a result:

First, the Solid front diff cover sucks, because it causes interference with the track bar and drag link.




To address this I reinstalled the factory cover, along with a freebie Warn lower half guard


Problem solved!
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:27 AM
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Second, the NP231 low ratio was good for the Green and Blue trails, but caused control issues with the Black trails. Basically, I couldn't tailor the crawl speed to the terrain.

Solution, a buddy donated a Rubicon case, which I'm augmenting with a RubiCrawler. Once installed, I'll have 1:1, 2.72:1, 4.0:1, and 10.88:1






I plan on doing the install, with twin sticks, around Thanksgiving to Christmas time-frame
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Old 10-22-2015, 12:12 PM   #69
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Second, the NP231 low ratio was good for the Green and Blue trails, but caused control issues with the Black trails. Basically, I couldn't tailor the crawl speed to the terrain. Solution, a buddy donated a Rubicon case, which I'm augmenting with a RubiCrawler. Once installed, I'll have 1:1, 2.72:1, 4.0:1, and 10.88:1 I plan on doing the install, with twin sticks, around Thanksgiving to Christmas time-frame
Next rubicon case you have donated let me know and I'll take it off your hands haha
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:22 PM   #70
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Great looking LJ !
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:10 AM
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I've been spending most of my Jeep time working on other projects, but have managed to sneak in a little work on this one.

Removed the seats, console, and carpet in preparation for installing a BedRug kit. While doing so, I discovered that I had left the floor plugs out most of the summer and accumulated some mud on the floorboards from several trips to Rausch over the Summer.

Interior removed to clean floors and install BedRug


Rear BedRug kit


Front BedRug installed, along with Bartact Seat Covers


Rear BedRug installed






Overall the install process was very easy. Basically you:
1. Clean the entire floor and wheel wells (for the Velcro adhesive strips to attach)
2. Install the heat shields, provided, on the driver and passenger front pieces, (these go on the portions that rest on the transmission tunnel)
3. Cut and install Velcro strips onto the front driver and passenger pieces
4. Fit front pieces in place, lift to remove adhesive strip protector, then press in place
5. Repeat process for piece that goes over the rear passenger foot-well
6. Install driver side wheel well piece (I removed the rear seat belt lower anchor bolt for easier and cleaner install)
7. Install passenger side wheel well piece
8. Fit and trim rear cargo floor piece (reference cut marks are provided as a guide and are very close)
9. Install Velcro on rear cargo piece and attach it to the floor
10. Install tailgate piece

As for the durability, I can attest to that. My pickup has a BedRug in the bed and it doesn't mildew or show any signs of appreciable wear. Definitely worth replacing the carpet with this product!
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:18 AM
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After watching the hood flutter get progressively worse, I decided to install a set of Rugged Ridge XHD Hood Latches





Very easy install and a good quality part.
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:33 AM   #73
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I love the seat covers. Do you fit them over the existing seats or do you remove the old covers first and fit them as per the original ?
Had a look on the website but it doesn't really say.
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Old 02-09-2016, 01:45 PM
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They fit over the existing covers and are the best covers I've ever bought/installed. Worth the money IMHO!
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Old 02-17-2016, 04:18 PM   #75
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I have been looking at those seat cover also! If you did it again would you order them any different? Any of the options?
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Old 02-18-2016, 07:38 AM   #76
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Nice build! Keep up the good work and posts!! Joe
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:51 AM
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I have been looking at those seat cover also! If you did it again would you order them any different? Any of the options?
Only thing I might do different is get the lumbar support option.
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Old 02-19-2016, 10:24 AM
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Nice build! Keep up the good work and posts!! Joe
Thanks!
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:05 AM   #79
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very nice indeed.
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Old 06-11-2016, 07:09 PM   #80
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Great build
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Old 06-18-2016, 06:47 PM   #81
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Fantastic build, your LJ looks unbelievable
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:04 AM
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Catching up a little here, but I have finally gotten around to installing the Metalcloak 6Pak shocks that have been in the boxes for several months. I've since put about 2500 miles and multiple off road trips on them and I'm very impressed so far with the ride quality.

I also saw a big gain in effective shock travel. With my previous setup, Bilstein 5100s, I was getting around 9.5" of shock travel. After installing the front 6Pak shocks and cycling the suspension, I was able to get almost 13" of travel.

The back shocks will take a little bit more work to hit that number though, because I already know that the rear tires come in contact with the lower part of the rear fender-well at full compression. MC recommends trimming these so they're even with their rear corner guards (I have their full steel corners), but I haven't had time to get to that yet.





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Old 08-10-2016, 08:07 AM
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- Artec HD lower control arm mounts welded in front and rear
- Metalcloak HD rear lower shock mounts welded in rear
-Metalcloak double adjustable aluminum control arms installed
- Metalcloak rear 6Pak shocks installed
- Camshaft Position Sensor disintegrated, so a new one was installed

In preparation to start another build, I swapped in the new Metalcloak (MC) aluminum control arm suspension I picked up last year. The old steel arm MC kit on my Jeep will go on the new build. As for the new kit, the double adjustable arms makes doing the install much easier, since you can crank them to the desired arm length after they are in place. When installing the arms, I set them to the following lengths:

Rear arms were roughed in at 14" for the uppers and 16" for the lowers
Front arms were roughed in at 15.25" for the uppers and 16.75 for the lowers

The only issues I had, besides stabbing myself with a pry bar, first, was that I had to notch the inside portion of the front lower shocks mounts. At full droop the front, "beefier", arms contacted the inside corners of the shock mounts. I took a grinder to the bottom of the mounts and cut up around 1/8" and went 3 - 4" towards the outside of the shock mount. After doing this I cycled the suspension again and all looked good. I then painted the areas I notched, to keep rust away.

The second issue occurred when one of the 10.9 upper arm bolts, MC supplied, stripped during torquing it to 55 ft lbs. This was a little frustrating, because I ended up having to remove and replace it with one of the other bolts. It also meant that I would be one bolt short and need to go in search of a replacement. All things considered, I'm pleased with the product.





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Old 08-10-2016, 08:21 AM
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6Pak Shock Update:

I've had a chance to put them to the test over the Summer and the bottom line is I'm very impressed with their overall performance.

History behind the choice:

I was at a point where my shocks had become a limiting factor when wheeling. Although the previous Bilstein 5100s had been bullet proof and severed me extremely well, the roughly 10" shock travel was limiting droop slightly and up travel more. With that in mind I started to seriously consider going coilover, but the amount of work, cost involved, and real world benefit I'd notice made me reconsider the options. Also, I really do like being a little different and pushing the boundaries for what a conventional SA suspension can do (not to mention the fact that I prefer the factory like suspension look).

With all that in mind, I made the decision to try the 6Pak shock route. This was not an easy choice by any means, especially given the $399 ea. price tag. However, since I knew I would be building another TJ at some point, it became easier to live with when I decided to purchase an entire MC SA aluminum arm kit, with the 6Pak shocks. This plus the free shipping discounts lowered my per shock cost and made the purchase more attractive.

As for whether it was a good choice, I'm happy I went this direction. On road the shocks are very smooth and provide noticeably less road feedback than the stiffer Bilsteins. Offroad, I spent 3 full days at Rausch twice so far this summer and covered almost every part of the park.

Whether in mud, water, or on the rocks the shocks performed flawlessly. Frankly, given the amount of muddy/gooey stuff I was in and then pounding the shocks on the rocks, I fully expected to see some seeping around the shock seals. However, I saw nothing like that. The shocks gave me exactly the amount of droop I needed when climbing over stuff. Additionally, my tires now could fully stuff (actually rubbed ever so slightly) into both the front and rear fender setup. This was something I couldn't do with the previous shocks.



Pros:
- Better on-road ride and handling
- 3" gain in shock travel
- Exceptional off-road performance
- Durable

Cons:
- Pricey
- Bulky Body (This makes fitting them, especially in the rear, a little tricky)
- Rear lower mounts require cutting off factory mounts and welding in the supplied mounts

Given all that, I have to give the MC 6Pak shocks a big.....
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:24 AM
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Finally got around to installing the Savvy gas tank skid. After looking at multiple options, this is hands down the best skid on the market. The design is perfect and the skid comes with all new hardware, including bolts, nuts, zip ties, plastic push pins, and stainless steel straps, to replace the rusty factory parts. The numbers for the install look like this:

- Skid weighs in at 31 lbs (4 lbs more than the stock skid)
- Gained 2+" ground clearance over the stock skid
- Gained 2" additional clearance between the skid and rear differential cover
- Gained additional clearance at the rear track bar (didn't measure this, but it's noticeable)

Also, if doing this, use it as an opportunity to install a new fuel pump. In my case I ordered a new Bosch pump. Just do yourself a favor, if you don't have one, and get a strap wrench. It will make removing the old fuel pump so much easier (Trust me on this one!).

The only trick to doing the skid install to to make sure you install the back two bolts of the skid first, then do the bolts along the front (really the rear of the Jeep). This is necessary because if you install the front bolts first, you will not be able to raise the tank into position to install the rear two bolts (I found this out the hard way!).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Original skid


Skid removed for cleaning, rust treating, and painting frame and tub areas


New Savvy skid assembled and tank fitted into it. I also replaced the fuel pump, while in there.


Savvy Skid install completed
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Old 03-08-2017, 12:30 PM   #86
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This is by far my favorite jeep on the forum! I just picked up an 04 TJ in Patriot blue with 67k miles on it and a lot of my build wish list shares similar parts as yours. I also plan on having color matched metal cloak armor! Yours really sealed that deal for me. Keep up the good work. I look forward to seeing how this keeps going
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:35 PM   #87
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Absolutely beautiful

Great work. I just picked up an 05 LJ and your build is inspiring!
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:29 AM   #88
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$400 per shock!!?!!!
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:24 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offroad1 View Post
Catching up a little here, but I have finally gotten around to installing the Metalcloak 6Pak shocks that have been in the boxes for several months. I've since put about 2500 miles and multiple off road trips on them and I'm very impressed so far with the ride quality.

I also saw a big gain in effective shock travel. With my previous setup, Bilstein 5100s, I was getting around 9.5" of shock travel. After installing the front 6Pak shocks and cycling the suspension, I was able to get almost 13" of travel.

The back shocks will take a little bit more work to hit that number though, because I already know that the rear tires come in contact with the lower part of the rear fender-well at full compression. MC recommends trimming these so they're even with their rear corner guards (I have their full steel corners), but I haven't had time to get to that yet.





Do you see a big advantage to the locking hubs? The kits to do this mod are nuts expensive.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:01 PM   #90
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She sure is pretty. Subscribed.

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