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Old 02-24-2009, 08:42 AM
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"350 Build for Dummies"

Ok guys... Please take it easy on me. When I say Im new at this, by all means.... Ive been studying Felsengleiskette's "My 95 yj chevy conversion redux" and a few others for some time now but instead of hijacking his thread, I needed to start my own. I came into this build only with almost no mechanical knowledge. Ive been slowly but surely building my jeep with the help of jeepers on various forums and hope that I can soon get it completed.

To make a LONG story SHORT, I was screwed over by a mechanic who I thought was building my jeep and in the mix of that... parts went missing, my jeep never got done, and I got stuck with money out of the pocket with more parts to buy to complete this project. (NO VIOLIN NEEDED)

Hopefully, Ill be able to tie up some loose ends here and get some extra help where its needed.

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Old 02-24-2009, 09:01 AM
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Just to give everyone an idea on this build, my jeep was previously a 92 2.5L Rustbucket YJ:

Suspension mods before the swap thanks mostly to the PO are:
3" body lift
1-1/4" lift shackles
1.5" "add-a-leaf" lift springs
33x12.5x15 all terrains on black cragers

New Drivetrain:
88 Chevy 350 (V-Belt Setup, Edelbrock carburator and manifold, Accel Distributor, rear outlet shortie headers)
92 700R4
92 NP233C (now mechanical/previously electrical)

















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Old 02-24-2009, 09:47 AM
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This is where Im stuck... Back to where I was a year ago. Now Im in the stage of planning my next few steps. Knowing "what to do" and "how to do" is where my problems lie..

Stage 1
- Get belt system aligned
- get powersteering hose made (will a stock gm hose work?)
- mount universal radiator to grill (need to have brackets made ??)
- I have a taurus fan for cooling (what are your guys thoughts)
- Is it necessary to run a tranny cooler or can I run through radiator?

Stage 2
- Drop tank and remove stock pump
- For a fuel pump, I was told to go with a holley blue (does anyone have clear instructions on what I need to do) I was told to drop the tank, replace existing pump with hose, and then run new hose to the fuel pump, then to the filter, then to carb. (what kind of hose to I replace pump with, what do I use as a filter, is a fuel pressure regulator needed?)
- how many lines will I need? A feed line and return line only?

Stage 3
- Electrical ( I dont even want to think about this )
- Planning on going with a universal 8-12 circut wiring harness kit. This way, everything is labeled for future reference.

Can you guys fill in the gaps?
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:31 AM   #4
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Stage 1
- Get belt system aligned There should be no alignment needed
- get powersteering hose made (will a stock gm hose work?) Proper lenght GM or Jeep hose should work
- mount universal radiator to grill (need to have brackets made ??)
- I have a taurus fan for cooling (what are your guys thoughts) A+ choice
- Is it necessary to run a tranny cooler or can I run through radiator? If radiator has hookups for tranny it should be ok, an added cooler wouldn't hurt.
Stage 2
- Drop tank and remove stock pump Why? If it works use it and just install a pressure regulator in line to the carb set up for around 4 PSI- For a fuel pump, I was told to go with a holley blue (does anyone have clear instructions on what I need to do) I was told to drop the tank, replace existing pump with hose, and then run new hose to the fuel pump, then to the filter, then to carb. (what kind of hose to I replace pump with, what do I use as a filter, is a fuel pressure regulator needed?)
- how many lines will I need? A feed line and return line only? Correct

Stage 3
- Electrical ( I dont even want to think about this )
- Planning on going with a universal 8-12 circut wiring harness kit. This way, everything is labeled for future reference.

With a carb'd chevy engine all you need is switched +12V for the dizzy, I'd just stick with the stock harness unless it's bad or already gone.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:06 PM
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Im running a edlebrock carb and thinking about running an electric pump on the fuel rail.

Im reading and i see that some guys block off return lines and run just one to the pump and out to the carb. Would you recommend that?

Someone down the street is offering me a Holley Holley L-6145-2 for $25

Opinions....
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:04 PM   #6
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I personally wouldn't bother with an electric pump, since your block will take a mechanical I would go that route. They are troublefree and last forever. Probably around $15 at autozone, get something from a 60's vehical they won't have the bypass line on the pump only and in and out.

Since you are running low pressure for a carb you could just run to the carb and forget the return line with no problems.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:37 PM
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Because I went with the Transdapt crossmember, I have to use an electric pump.

Today, I got a holley blue and some fuel line so I think this weekend, Im dropping the tank and prob gonna go this route as suggested by Holley

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Old 02-24-2009, 10:04 PM   #8
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You Should Totally Check This Page Out If You havent there pretty good on info about doing swaps and they have some stuff that they sell,like radiators and mounts. When i get some cash thinking about to do the mopar 360 engine swap -http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/chevy_small_block_v8.htm
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:58 PM   #9
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lookin' sweet man...i may not remember to hit all your points, but i'll try. v belts to line up should be bolt on (no adjustment needed) i DID have to shim my power steering pump to line up, and i used washers inbetween pump mount bracket and the pump. I should say that a serp. set up would be a better choice (imo) due to slipping of v belts. Power steering was a little adventure for me due to my pump having a standard flare, and my JEEP gear box utilizing a o-ring fitting. what i did was buy a new pressure hose for a stock jeep, and bent the chit out of it w/ a tool to bend out of the way of my universal radiator. then, i had the pump end cut off and a "bite-lok" fitting put on it w/ the standard flare---$40 bucks. If you have a 3" universal radiator (like a jegs) you will have to make a mount for it or use a jegs uni-rad mount set up.(but i should warn you, with where your motor is now placed (i have the same mount) your fan to pulley clearence is now real short if you mount the radiator to the surface of the grill; as in stock...) i had to build my own rad support system, and "inset" the radiator in my grill. did you buy the correct radiator to run your trans through it? as in an automatic radiator? inlet/outlet coolant hoses+trans cooler provisions on the side tank? otherwise you will need a seperate trans cooler that still fit in front of my radiator. as for the regulator... the stock jeep fuel pump runs at about 30 lbs. and what i found was running that regulator from the stock pump, i could only bring the pressure down to about 15 lbs. w/ the adjuster screw all the way. thats why i went w/ a holley low pressure pump. w/ no regulator. and if you use a bypass regulator you have to plumb back into the tank a !!!!1/2!!!!" return line to get the pressure down to 4-6 lbs.<---this is obviously gay. and lastly for the gutting of the stock pump... i removed the pump and in its place i used 3/8 brake line bent to mount to the pumps mount bracket and at the tanks bottom end of the brake line i first crush flared the end w/ a flare tool. then i flared the crush end open slightly so it would "snap" tight fit into a generic intank pump screen with a round tube style oraface. <---did all that make sence??? here is some pics of what we are talking about. (im sure you saw them...)
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:13 PM   #10
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(i hope you dont feel im jackin' your thread) i bought all the stuff to make the rad support from home depot. the square tube is one inch x one inch aluminum. flat stock is one inch aluminum. some bolts and "home brewed "C" clamps mounted to the square stock. and i tapped the c clamp w/ threads so i can screw down a bolt to snug up the radiator to the mount. where the screw touches the radiator tanks i have rubber door stopper bumpers to cushion and not puncture the tanks.
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:17 PM   #11
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now about those pulleys not lining up...if you tried and they for some reason dont...MAKE SURE YOUR DAMPNER is all the way on the crank!!!! and your crank/dampner bolt is installed correctly w/ your pulley setup. some the washer and bolt go on after the pulley is on, or if the pulley has a large hole it doesnt matter.
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:27 AM
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Lancem - thanks for the advise. Since Im using the holley blue, I think Ima go the route of one line to feed the carb and no return line. My fuel pump was replaced in the jeep about a year ago so Ill get a few bucks from someone for it along with the fuel rails.

YJMpower - Thanks for the link.. thats one of many that I have saved to my favorites that I quite often reference. I can send you the rest if you like.

Felsengleiskette - BY ALL MEANS, I NEED ALL THE INFO I CAN GET.... I want as much info as I can from as many people who have "been there and done that"... my way of learning is asking and stairing at whatever problem I have until I figure it out. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt, haha. Dont feel like your ninjaing my thread.. thats why Im asking for help.

By the way, thanks for the clear definition of this... So here are my questions I have for you.

v belts to line up should be bolt on (no adjustment needed) i DID have to shim my power steering pump to line up, and i used washers inbetween pump mount bracket and the pump. - I think I may of used the wrong "wording or terminology". My pulleys are off about a 1/4 of an inch but now I see how I can improvise to get them to line up. As far as a serp set up would be great... but thats out of my budget for now.

If you have a 3" universal radiator (like a jegs) you will have to make a mount for it or use a jegs uni-rad mount set up.... This is the radiator I have. Today my taurus fan gets in so Im curious as to how everything will measure up.

i had to build my own rad support system, and "inset" the radiator in my grill. -- Is your radiator right up against the back of your lights? Did you have to do alot of cutting to the top of the radiator or any other shaving?

Did you buy the correct radiator to run your trans through it? as in an automatic radiator? inlet/outlet coolant hoses+trans cooler provisions on the side tank? I have to run a tranny cooler.. does anyone have any suggestions. I see that advance auto sells them in the store around $60-$70. Does it HAVE to be mounted to front of the radiator and is that the best for it?

i removed the pump and in its place i used 3/8 brake line bent to mount to the pumps mount bracket and at the tanks bottom end of the brake line i first crush flared the end w/ a flare tool. then i flared the crush end open slightly so it would "snap" tight fit into a generic intank pump screen with a round tube style oraface. <---did all that make sence??? -- I had to read it a couple times, hahaha. So from what Im understanding, I need to take some 3/8 brake line and run it from the Holley to the bottom of the tank (flared) to where it fits tight to the screen in the tank? Im guessing this is for pick up??? Sorry to sound like a tard


You guys are a big help... thanks for all the input!!!
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:33 AM
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For anyone who might be doing the same thing as I am and are also electrically inclined, here is the universal harness I am going to use.

I dont want the headache of cutting up my fuse block that was in the jeep.

take a look
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Old 02-25-2009, 11:18 AM
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OK guys... !!NEED SOME ADVISE FAST!!!

There is a local guy here who will sell me a complete serp set up off of a pick up for $150.

It has the reverse water pump also. Should I go this route and eliminate the old Vbelt set up? I guess it would be better down the road if I ever want to put AC in the jeep.
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:43 PM   #15
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What Else Can You Send Me?
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:23 PM
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Good Write Ups for V8 Swaps

Here are a few of the other builds that have been my bible since i started this swap. Each has similar information but its the small things that have really gotten on my nerves like where I am now in this project.

1. Jeep Forum

2. Novak Of Course

3. Random Site

4. Off-Road.com Part1 Part2 Part3

ive got a bunch of other info saved that goes with my tranny and carb. I know this info relates more to a sbc swap but hey, it helps.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:03 PM   #17
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THx, Good Luck
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:51 PM   #18
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my serp set up is basically a v belt setup but uses serp style pulleys (4-5 groove pulleys)meaning...i have no tensioner, just an alt bracket/steer pump bracket/ pump and alt have grooved pulleys and the alt has a tension type arm to it. real basic. standard rotate pump w/ a groove pulley on it. you dont really want a factory style serp setup cuz thats alot of cast parts in an already cramped space. like i said mine is a bare bonz v belt setup but w/ serp style pulleys (i have two belts not one snaking one.) my trans cooler is for the biggest gross wieght vehicle ( to help keep cool under loads and wheelin') i think it was like the same prices you stated but from jegs. yes, optimum placement is in front of your radiator so the fan draws air through it. here is a pic of how close my bracket hit the headlight shield. MY pump is a holley in line (out of tank) so i had to do the deal i talked about. if you use your stock one this thing i made does not apply to you. but again a 30 lbs. pump w/ that reg. may only bring you down to 15lbs.<----to high for carb. thats why i had to use the low pressure fuel pump out of tank.
I did NO alteration to my radiator. i cut out a notch on the top of the grill so my radiator cap could sink into the grill. i also cut an 3/4" strip down either side of the inside cavity of the grill (engine side) to fit the width of the radiator
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 02-25-2009, 11:00 PM   #19
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the hood catch is right in front of my radiator surface about 1/4" away....where the light sheild is for the headlight "rests" on my radiator support bracket i made, but no cutting was nessasary. my bracket mounts to the grill using the same holes as the old unit. heres' a pic of the "serp pulley brackets im talkin' about. if you already have these your in bussiness just get serp groove pulleys instead of v belt.
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:10 AM
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Im in aw

Im playing sick at work today so I can go home and play. Im expecting all my parts to be in today from UPS.

Any chance you want to come to Florida on Vacation... Its 70 everyday and the beach is 10 miles away LOL

Im itching to get this thing done.
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:24 AM
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What tranny cooler are you running? And could I just get a cheap one from advanced auto?
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:29 PM   #22
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i want to say it was a jegs brand trans cooler. but it may be a flex-a-lite. and you can get your cooler from anywhere...i was ordering parts so frequent,i dont remember what brand it is....lol. a trans cooler is a trans cooler imo. just get one rated OVER your vehicle wieght to help cool when you rag on the trans wheelin. (like one rated for gwr of 8000lbs. or more) i wish i could come down there, i work for beer. i got family in orlando, naples, and ft. myers. but alas...im a daddy for two and i go to school to learn a new trade...(i going to be fixing wind turbines for power generation companies)
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:02 AM
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Ok guys.. .Im back. Went to a U-Pull It this weekend and I feel like I hit the jackpot. I ended up finding a older vbelt set up on a work truck and took all the brackets & pulleys along with powersteering hose and bolts all for $20.

Best thing of all... everything lines up PERFECT!!

So now I have a question based on recommendation.

What motor oil should I use: My motor hasnt ran in about a year so what type of oil should I go with? Someone told me because of climate here in south florida, 10w40 might be a good choice.

What tranny fluid should I use after the drain? Advanced auto has Valvoline Dexron VI on sale for $11. Should I use any additives?

What engine coolant should I go with?
I guess just a basic 50/50 mixture of an extended life antifreeze and distilled water ( i hear tap water corrodes).

Sorry if I sound like a complete retard but I dont want to go with products that works for my application and climate.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:41 AM   #24
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Oil you want a thicker oil so 10w40 should be fine, Dexron is what my uncles use and they are master mechanics ASE cert and all, so yeah use that I wouldnt use any additives tho, the 50/50 mix you buy in a yellow jug should work its just as easy as mixin your own
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:20 AM
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Thanks 87YJWrangler.... All this is new to me. Other than this jeep, all my other vehicles Ive been able to take into a repair shop because they were still under warranty.

So as of now, Im just waiting for UPS to bring their snail crawling a$$'s to my house to deliver my headers & taurus fan. To be honest, Im thinking about skipping the taurus fan and just going with the mechanical blade to eliminate extra wiring troubles.

What do you guys think about this? Ill rarely be taking this jeep in the mud, its mostly gonna be a daily cruiser.
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:26 PM
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Ok guys.. Im in need of some help.

While Im waiting for UPS, I figured I mind as well drop the tank so I can take the stock electric pump out. Before I start something that Ive never done before, I need to get a grasp on a few basic understandings.

1. Is there a way I can do this without fully dropping the tank?

2. When I remove the pump, does the stock sending unit remain in the tank? And if so, does that wire to a mechanical type fuel gauge.

3. Would it be better to replace the intake pump with a hose or 3/8 brake line thats ran to pump on the frame.

Is there anything that I should look out for?
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:53 PM   #27
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Um dont break anything is a good one to watch out for, theres alot of bolts to drop the tank if I remember like 13 or somethin like that, and remember to remove filler neck too so you dont bend it or break it off. The man to ask all this is DocDave hes a genious when it comes to jeeps... So doc if your readin this your brain is needed to advise this newb on the workings of the jeep
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:25 PM   #28
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yes, tank has to come completely out....three bolts on front of tank....four on back side of tank. stock sending unit stays in, just remove pump. yes, remove filler neck and vent tube. you want to replace the pump w/ a hard steel or aluminum line...NOT rubber cuz then the tube may dislodge and float in the tank, not stay down to the bottom. get creative w/ mounting it. i used the sending unit bracket in the tank where the pump used to be...be sure to put a screen"sock" on the end so yer line wont clog.
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:28 PM   #29
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i had to drain tank first...just remove the fuel line and turn key on so the fluid dumps into a container using the in tank pump. when you remove the sending unit to remove the pump be careful not to break the tank gasket. they are old and brittle.
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mine: 95' YJ-4"lift (Skyjacker) 2" body lift. chevy 350/th400/np241 swap. herculined interior, boat drain plugs for floor. TJ hood. 33" MTR. Up next: bigger axles.
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:46 AM
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Thanks for the help guys... Dropping the tank was alot easier than I thought it was going to be. I didnt do too bad for a rookie.

For those of you who read this and might need help in this step, this is what I did to make things easy on me.

1. Placed 2 center blocks under the gas tank laying longways parallel to the frame.
2. I placed a 12x24 piece of wood on top of the jack and raised it up to the tank to use as support when lowering.
3. Remove filler neck too so you dont bend it or break it off
3. Unbolted the bolts as instructed leaving the 2 strap bolts for last.
4. After everything is unbolted, simply lower the jack and the tank will sit right on the blocks.
5. I slid the blocks right out from under the jeep and placed them on a dolly.

This took a whole 30 minutes. When I get home today, me the wire brush, the pressure washer, and the underbody paint are gonna have some fun.

While that is drying, I guess Ill go ahead and remove the pump and run some hard line right inside of the tank and instructed.

I have 3/8 hard fuel lines. Can I just use that to run from inside the tank to the holley blue?

What do I need to leave exposed in order to run a autometer fuel gauge? Do I need to purchase a mechanical or electrical gauge. Im reading their instructions on how to install and the wheels arent quite turning.

Again guys, Im a rookie and learning by reading as much as possible. Once I can get this done, the biggest pain Ill have to get done is the wiring.

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