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Old 01-23-2018, 03:45 PM
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94 YJ DD Build

Been using this forum often enough for assistance, might as well start a build thread.

In June I bought a 94 YJ:
PO #1: Swapped the 2.5 to Chevy 4.3, carbed
PO #2: Kept it on the road

As I bought it the Chevy was running alright, unknown mileage on the block or body, around 200K on the odometer. Body was pretty solid, had been bedlined and was holding up fine to the northeast winters. Electrical was a nightmare, soft top was good.

Needed reverse switch, some brake work, etc.

After a few weeks of driving it around I upgraded to the '95 booster and MC, replaced the springs, shoes, pads, and cylinders in the rear. Then I started having power problem with the engine cutting out, my mechanic thought it was electrical but also found that the frame was not inspection-worthy.

Found a '95 Sahara that was already torn apart for body restoration with a good block, tranny, and frame. Sold off the bits I didn't need and swapped the body onto the new frame. Not sure how long the 4.0 had been sitting but got her fired back up and running.

New fuel system went in, new head gasket, manifold gasket, water pump, stat, stat housing, belts, pulleys, alternator. Changed the fluids, and sheís almost ready for inspection again.

Last weekend found a leaking axle seal, need to get the speedo working, HVAC connected, and figure out why I have no dash lights.

Overall goal - daily driver. Not worried about how she looks, she just has to get me from A to B

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Old 01-23-2018, 06:04 PM   #2
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Sounds like a fun project! Post some pictures please!!

By the way good thinking on getting rid of that 4.3. They've never been great motors and why someone would've swapped a carb'd one into a 94 YJ Is beyond me...

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Old 01-24-2018, 06:00 AM
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What is the best way to upload photos? Usually I upload to Flickr and copy the links over but those don't seem to want to display well on this forum and the forum gallery is a bit clunky for uploading.

As for the 4.3, had it been Vortec I probably would have kept it, it was my first carbed engine and I was hoping to get some good experience with carbs
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Old 01-24-2018, 08:33 AM   #4
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I've been using the "go advanced" and "manage attachments" method and uploading directly from my project folder on my computer. when the photo uploader on a forum of this type works, i find it the easiest way to go. Went thru the lost photo fun of p-bucket on one forum and use imgur on another, but still prefer to skip the middle step of moving my pics to another site.
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Old 01-24-2018, 02:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdhb_94yj View Post
What is the best way to upload photos? Usually I upload to Flickr and copy the links over but those don't seem to want to display well on this forum and the forum gallery is a bit clunky for uploading.

As for the 4.3, had it been Vortec I probably would have kept it, it was my first carbed engine and I was hoping to get some good experience with carbs
I'll typically use imageshack or tinypic and just copy the url.

Really any imagehosting site will work too, just as long as you got the link!
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Old 01-25-2018, 10:55 AM
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The day I brought her home:
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:05 AM
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Body swap weekend:
New shocks
Rear track bar removed
Verified electrical from ignition to starter
Cut out old gas tank support and welded in new one
Swapped the body to the new frame

I think I made 7 hardware runs that weekend...

https://flic.kr/p/21gjFA5
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:05 PM
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Update: Trying to get rid of the huge clunk that happens when I engage a gear. Upgraded the tranny mount, installed the torque arm stud, put new u-joints in the rear driveshaft. Replaced the axle seals and bearings this weekend as well, didn't seem to have excessive play in the diff, but I'm no expert. Pinion spins clean, no hang-ups. The sound now sounds less like it's coming from the rear end and a bit more like right under the back of my seat - something with the transfer case? Is there a torque arm for the transfer case as well? Maybe time for new motor mounts?

Still chasing down the speedo problem, console install, lack of dash lights, and high idle (2k-3k rpm)
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Old 02-03-2018, 04:11 PM
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Seems like the PCM reset id the trick for the idle, at least so far.
Disconnected battery negative, removed positive, grounded positive cable to negative terminal for 30 seconds, reconnected positive, then negative, key to on headlights on for about 1 second, headlights off, key to off. Fired her up and she found a good idle at just under 1K.

In case anyone was wondering, the blower motor from a '95 is too large to fit through the firewall hole in a 94. That's now a tomorrow problem.
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Old 02-05-2018, 11:33 AM   #10
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Any luck finding your "clunk" yet? Does it make noise when driving or just when you first put it in gear?
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Old 02-06-2018, 10:53 AM
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Any luck finding your "clunk" yet? Does it make noise when driving or just when you first put it in gear?
Not exactly. I was sure it was coming from the rear end for a bit, but then once the new ujoints went in it definietely sounded like from tcase area. I have an upgraded tranny mount and am using the torque arm, so I don't think those are moving too much anymore, but I could be wrong. Is there a tcase mount that I could be missing?

It is also not stuck in 4wd - I thought that perhaps the extra noise was 4wd related but that it not the case.

Clunk still happens when I put start moving in gear. Not as bad at speed, but there is still more noise than I think there should be. Even if I let the clutch out real slow I still have that clunk once the driveline engages.

My 4wd gear selector seems seized in place in 2H, maybe that is related?
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:31 AM   #12
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It really sounds like something is moving around that shouldn't be. There is only the one mount. Mount a gopro under there and drive it around and see if anything is moving around.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:45 AM   #13
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possibly up in the front axle engagement area and the noise is transmitting back thru the front driveshaft? I know u said shifter is stuck in 2H, a few years back my switch went bad and I locked the front axle in 4wd up there. wonder if someone tried the same and got it wrong??
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
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It really sounds like something is moving around that shouldn't be. There is only the one mount. Mount a gopro under there and drive it around and see if anything is moving around.
I'll have to look around for an old junk camera, that's a good idea.

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possibly up in the front axle engagement area and the noise is transmitting back thru the front driveshaft? I know u said shifter is stuck in 2H, a few years back my switch went bad and I locked the front axle in 4wd up there. wonder if someone tried the same and got it wrong??
I have a posi for the front on the old frame, need to get that moved over at some point. But I know I'm in 2H - tried to pull out the other side of the garage last weekend and nearly got stuck in the snow. Definitely no drive to the front wheels at the moment
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:02 AM
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Finally ready for inspection, my list is down to the clunk, 4WD selection, speedo, and rear wiper.

Got the heater cables all set, dash lights working again, console mounted. I forgot to take pics of the console, I did a little fab work to the ammo can to hinge the lid.

FWIW, if you need to replace the defrost vent cable (connects to heater controls on the top right side, vent door is on center down low) you can take the cable that controls the driver vent door (connects to heater controls on the top left side, vent door is behind speedo) and turn it around backwards (put the cable adjuster on the vent door side). Fits perfectly for the space, doesn't have to go over the steering column, and the adjuster allows you to play with the cable length until it's correct. You may have to cut the plastic sheath off of the adjuster end. I removed the sheath up to the clip when trying to install the cable the opposite direction, then realized it would work better reversed, so I don't recall if that will get in the way or not.
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:07 PM
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Love that heat. No freezing cold hands anymore!
Console works great. Forgot to take pics of that again, and she's dropped off for inspection and a few tests.

I am beginning to suspect motor mounts may be causing the clunk, as I have a lot of torque steer when I get on and off the gas. Steering is pretty loose right now, so it's a bit hard to tell if that is exaggerating the issue, but I'll have my guy put in some poly mounts and see how much clunking continues. Still wouldn't be surprised if the throwout or pilot bearings are part of that issue.

Picked up and engine stand this afternoon, once I get back from Germany I'll pull the 4.3 off of the old frame and see if it is salvageable, at least get it cleaned up and hopefully running again. I will probably sell the AX15 from that frame, but until the 4WD gets resolved I'll hold onto the tcase. A sculptor will be picking up the frame, springs, and whatever else is getting scrapped, leaving me with the axles, shafts, and steering components
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:10 PM
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Love that heat! No more cold hands

Forgot to take photos of the console again, but dropped her off for inspection and testing. I think the clunk may be the result of old OEM motor mounts, as I have quite a bit of torque steer when I get on and off the gas with the tranny still engaged. We'll start with poly mounts and see how that does.

Picked up and engine stand so in a month or two I can pull the 4.3 off the old frame, clean that up and figure out what to do with it. Will probably sell the AX15, holding onto the tcase until the 4WD issue is resolved. I may need a storage unit...

Found a sculptor who is taking away the old frame and whatever metal bits I was going to scrap, so that will be re-purposed in a neat way
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:51 PM   #18
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you're probably on the money on the engine mounts being the noise source. I kind of figured you'd ruled that out already. Take the hood off, whack the gas and you'll see it.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:58 AM
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you're probably on the money on the engine mounts being the noise source. I kind of figured you'd ruled that out already. Take the hood off, whack the gas and you'll see it.
I thought I'd ruled that out too, since a sitting rev didn't seem to rock the jeep much, I guess once you connect all of that torque something has to give. I asked my guy to install poly mounts so by April she should be nice and secure.

It's going to be weird not working on the cars for a month or two
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Old 02-21-2018, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep View Post
Any luck finding your "clunk" yet? Does it make noise when driving or just when you first put it in gear?
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Bird View Post
possibly up in the front axle engagement area and the noise is transmitting back thru the front driveshaft?
Got a call from my mechanic yesterday, seems like he found the trouble. The rear spring alignment pins were so shot that the axle was effectively rotating every time I get on and off the gas. Plus the front right spring had broken near the frame mount.

I'm kicking myself for not looking over the suspension better but honestly I don't know if I would have caught the pins with my lack of experience.

New springs and ubolts are on their way, along with motor mounts (might as well). Hopefully that does the trick
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:31 PM
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Finally have the Jeep back. A couple of 200 mile highway trips plus knocking around town and she rides good. A bit of steering play to figure out, plus some security features to install. Have to mount the spare still too but waiting until I take the hard top off for that since I have to weld to the roll cage. Driver side axle seal blew out again, will be replacing it when I have the time and space, until then just filling the diff regularly.
Swapped steering columns last week and gained column tilt, a crisper brights switch, working signal resets, and intermittent wipers. Really pumped about the wipers.

Still needs:
Front bumper and stinger
Rear bumper with hitch
Tailgate storage box
Spare mount
Steering play cleaned up
Cupholders
Wire winch

Meanwhile, I have in my garage a 4.3 Chevy, AX15, NP231, driveshafts, gas tank, steering box and linkage, fuel pumps, axles etc. Basically with a frame, tub, and suspension I could build another...
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Old 05-03-2018, 06:42 PM
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Just when you think it is all going well...

There is the sound of something rolling around beneath the Jeep when I turn. Hopefully it's a nut on the skid plate. More likely it's inside the bellhousing - I'm guessing it is a clutch spring since my clutch feels a bit heavier now and I've heard the occasional loud pop from that area. Probably should just pull the tranny and do clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and put some grease on the pivot arm (already have all of the parts).

I have serious left brake pull. That combined with the steering play means I'm using the tranny to brake more, so the clutch will probably go sooner anyway. I will start with pads and rotors, see if the right caliper is seized, etc. Again, parts I already have, just too far away from my current location to safely drive the Jeep to install them...

And the rear driver axle seal is shot again. So much fun
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:43 PM   #23
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Love the build pics! Nice Rig!
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:13 PM
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A little more look see and the tie rod ends are no good, passenger boot is blown open. Hopefully that and yet another power steering bleed will solve the steering play and let me figure out the brake pull
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:17 PM
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Did the outer tie rods and the adjuster sleeve today and wow did that make a big difference. Another bleed of the power steering also proved fruitful as the steering play has decreased. There is still more than I'd like but I'll play with adjusting and see what happens, worse thing I swap in the steering box that I know is almost brand new and go from there. The brake pull is still there, it seems to be turning the wheel but the play is still making it hard to diagnose
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Old 05-12-2018, 05:11 PM
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Pulled the tranny this morning to find no sign of debris in bell housing or damage to clutch or pressure plate. The popping is still a mystery but have not yet heard it come back today. Put some grease on the pivot arm while it was accessible and the clutch squeak is gone. Got all of that put back together and dove into the axle seal, having already done it once it was a breeze. Brake pull is still there, so it's on to pads and rotors along with a front caliper inspection.

A few products that worked well:
Oil Spill mat - didn't spill much but it caught all the dribbles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oil drip pan - actually pours nicely and covers a huge area
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tranny jack adapter - never would have been able to drop the tranny without this, since I have no lift. I recommend strapping the transmission to the adapter instead of the safety chain for security
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:01 PM
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Got the steering reigned in today by adjusting the set screw on the steering box. Less wheel play, though the first few inches of turn are much lighter than the rest, so perhaps I need to bleed the PS again. In doing so I removed the support bar for the passenger brake line and now I can access the set screw without removing anything else, even the winch plate.

Speaking of I got my winch wired in. This weekend I will be working on the front and rear bumpers so I'll be able to sling the hook up to the stinger and keep tension. And mount my license plate, since the zip ties look super cheesy.

Rear axle seal is holding thus far.

I still hear something rolling around underneath me while turning and it feels like something is hitting the firewall or tranny tunnel when I hit rough road. Maybe it is the bracket for the tcase? I will have to do some more digging. It's probably about time to get the poly motor mounts switched in too, but I will need an engine crane to accomplish that.

If I can get some time on a sheet metal brake I will also work on the rear storage box, which will free up a bunch of room inside my rear slider.
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:16 PM
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Got the front bumper and stinger on this weekend. Went to change the rear output shaft seal on the tcase since it started puking ATF everywhere and the seal came out - along with a chunk of housing. Luckily I have a second tcase, so I was able to swap housings and go.

I also got in my recovery gear so I can now hit the trails. Tow strap, snatch strap, shackles, and a tree saver.
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:39 PM
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No carpet + Jersey roads = I think I lost a couple of sockets out the drain holes when my tool case rattled open.
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:17 PM
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The good:
Attached are photos of the 40mm Ammo can for those interested. Turns out the offcut from the front bumper is the perfect height to support the rear of the can when the front is on the trans tunnel.
Spare tire finally mounted properly - no more ratchet strap
Winch cover also properly affixed

The bad:
Misfire time. Jeep gets warm, then at idle gets a missfire (toll booths, stoplights, etc). Sometimes recovers, sometimes keeps running rough. CEL comes on for injectors (really wish it was OBD2 and would tell me which injector). Replaced plug wires, rotor, dist cap and so far all good around town but haven't hit the highway yet. If it's still a problem I'll check the injector solenoids and fuel pressure, need to compression test too for kicks.
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