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Old 06-12-2019, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by daddyjeep View Post
I have the typical RCI 2162 fuel cell behind my rear seat. It holds fuel as it should, but that is all it is good for in that location. I was hoping to lower it through the floor so it was flush with the bottom of the frame, but my muffler had to live in that space. With the long arm links there was just no other place for a decent sized muffler. I have virtually zero storage. Do what you can to keep your fuel in the factory location.
For me, and from what it sounds like @ROGER B too, I want to retain the rear storage area. Even if I don't use the rear for seating, I want to be able to store gear, tools and supplies in there for longer road trips.

Unlike @ROGER B though, I will likely make a swing down rear carrier to keep the tire out of the interior. No sense trying to stretch the inside out and then save all that precious inside storage area to then turn around and kill it with a spare tire!

Genright has a great option - but just like the fuel tank, it's apparently filled with gold:







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Old 06-20-2019, 06:27 PM   #122
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I really like the tire carriers that get the spare up high and angled along the sloped back of the cage...

But I also like the Brennen Metcalf thought process of just bringing a spare tire in the bed and stuffing it with gear like tool bags/rolls, etc.

Honestly I've been leaving the spare tire/wheel on the trailer for most wheeling excursions.
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Old 06-21-2019, 12:07 PM
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I really like the tire carriers that get the spare up high and angled along the sloped back of the cage...

But I also like the Brennen Metcalf thought process of just bringing a spare tire in the bed and stuffing it with gear like tool bags/rolls, etc.

Honestly I've been leaving the spare tire/wheel on the trailer for most wheeling excursions.
A lot depends on what is available to you. If it's just a local trail, even just carrying a plug kit and leaving the spare at home is a viable option (assuming you have a buddy on the trail with you). We sometimes do this on small group rides (a few people bring spares, assuming similar lug patterns and size, one person brings the Hi-Lift, etc).

However, being out west and close to the Rockies, with a big desire to hit up all the popular trails in the west with hundreds of miles between myself and the trail, means I need to be able to be self-reliant. I could trailer the Jeep up, but for me that's kinda like trailering a Harley to Sturgis and feel that the trip to the destination is part of the fun. I'd be more inclined to build an Off-road trailer that I can load up with supplies and gear and leave that near camp (which seems like I may end up doing that too).

That's a good idea just to bring just a tire, assuming you have a reliable way to change one (or have beadlocks)...
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Old 06-23-2019, 03:41 PM   #124
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I agree, you should definitely keep that fuel tank as close to the factory location as possible. I had also considered using a fuel cell behind where the rear seat would go, but I just can't see myself losing that much of my YJs already limited storage space. I'm also considering Genright's swing down tire carrier, but I'm still not over the sticker shock after seeing that price tag. I'm also not sure how functional it would be for me, most of my wheeling involves a road trip of some kind and the swing down carrier makes accessing the storage area more difficult. Hopefully you can find one super cheap in the classifieds if that's the route you decide to go.

Your Jeep is looking great, and this thread has given me some ideas for my own build!
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Old 06-24-2019, 02:26 AM
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I agree, you should definitely keep that fuel tank as close to the factory location as possible. I had also considered using a fuel cell behind where the rear seat would go, but I just can't see myself losing that much of my YJs already limited storage space. I'm also considering Genright's swing down tire carrier, but I'm still not over the sticker shock after seeing that price tag. I'm also not sure how functional it would be for me, most of my wheeling involves a road trip of some kind and the swing down carrier makes accessing the storage area more difficult. Hopefully you can find one super cheap in the classifieds if that's the route you decide to go.

Your Jeep is looking great, and this thread has given me some ideas for my own build!
A local YJ friend of mine has a homemade version of the Genright/PS fold down carrier. If you're in the back area a lot, it can be a challenge to drop and then lift the carrier - certainly a two-handed, deliberate operation. You also need a bit more space than you would otherwise to clear the arm. That being said, it isn't as bad as I was expecting - but again that is relative to how often you expect to be back there.

I like my Bestop carrier for the simplicity and ease of use. It also has the smallest tire-to-body clearance of any carrier I found. I may be able to modify the Bestop to fit a 37"+ tire, but I think I'd have to space it out quite a bit, which adds leverage and increases the likelihood of dragging it on obstacles behind me. I won't know what direction I'll go, but it will be a result of "need" - for the time being, I'm very happy with the Bestop carrier. My other option when I wad decided on a carrier would have been the RockHard 4x4 bumper and mount (which has the advantage of adding a small rack and storage for longer trips).
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Old 06-24-2019, 03:22 AM
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I ended up picking up a 1999 Dodge 1500 with a good running 5.9L and 46RE. Just like my W150 Project, I think it's best to install a "placeholder" engine to work out any bugs in the electrical or fuel system BEFORE trying to break in a new motor. For the price ($500, to which I think I'll be able to recoup $400 back!), this seems like an excellent candidate to fill that role...



The garage has been pretty packed these last few weeks - a few weeks ago I picked up a D60HD rear to replace the too-large and too-limited-in-selection D70 in the Dodge. I then rebuilt and regeared the D60HD (plus added a TrueTrac and all new brakes and bearings) before swapping in place. Just this past weekend I finished rebuilding and regearing the front D60 in the Dodge as well, plus converted to crossover steering while I was down there. Everything came out great and I'm ready to move onto body work and interior.

This means the garage will be relatively "open' for the foreseeable future. With that, I'm thinking I can get some time next weekend to get the garage all cleaned out and reorganized (it's been a mess just parts collecting). I can go through the parts left over from the older Dodge axle and motor swap projects, plus clean out my Jeep project/parts bins as well and I can then wheel the SuperDuty axles into the backyard. This should give me plenty of space to start pulling apart the motor/trans from the new Dodge parts truck. A quick refresh (oil pump, quick touch up with black engine enamel, new plugs, etc) and she should be ready to drop into place in no time.

The timing here is extraordinary because...

On Father's Day, my wonderful Mrs. suggested I go ahead and order the MetalCloak Overline Fenders I've been eyeing up. The Free Shipping and 10% off pushed me over the edge and I picked up the fenders and a set of 6" powder coated flares to go along with them.



I just got a note from MetalCloak saying they were estimated to be 2 weeks out. The timing will be perfect, since I'll be coming back from a trip to Texas where I'm meeting a friend and picking up a set of 6" MetalCloak rear flares and mounting kit.

So, with an open garage I can pull the engine/trans and get the MC fenders primed and painted. Seeing how the front end will need to get torn apart anyways, it just makes sense to do it all at once! I'm thinking of starting the swap at the end of July and hopefully having it all buttoned up by the end of August. In theory, it should go much faster than the swap in my W150 as there will be no need for a custom fuel system (the YJ system will support the Magnum engine) and wiring upgrades will be minimal (with no cruise control or A/C, it's a whopping 11 wires!). Realistically, unless I run into a true hard stop issue, I can have the swap done in a solid weekend, but will plan for it being down for a month just so I don't feel like I need to rush anything. It will also give me time to schedule a few hours at the exhaust shop and send the axles off for trimming if needed.
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Old 06-25-2019, 08:53 AM   #127
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On Father's Day, MetalCloak
Congrats - and happy belated Fathers Day.

I've been eyeing the same fenders - with a narrower flare but i like that the fenders themselves come with inners. torn between these and a hi-line kit.
Please post shots of the fenders on the jeep without the 6" flares, curious what they look like alone.
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Old 06-25-2019, 12:31 PM
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Congrats - and happy belated Fathers Day.

I've been eyeing the same fenders - with a narrower flare but i like that the fenders themselves come with inners. torn between these and a hi-line kit.
Please post shots of the fenders on the jeep without the 6" flares, curious what they look like alone.
Will do! I just got an email last night from MetalCloak saying they shipped and should be here this week... so much for "ETA 2 weeks" in the email they sent me on Monday! I'll pick up some paint next week and prep them throughout the week... maybe I can get them sprayed by the weekend!

I went with the 6" flare because my bud is giving me his 6" rear flares. Originally I was eyeing up the 4" flares, but it looks as though the 6" flare should cover a 12.5" wide tire on common 3.75" backspaced wheels. I may still get a set of non-coated "rub rails" for rock-wheeling though.

The MetalCloak fenders have always appealed to me. Even the 6" flares have a good shape and the coverage is really only in the rear, just above the arch and behind. They still taper nicely toward the front and give good clearance while protecting the cab from mud/water. I'll say that after my first river crossing and VERY minor mud wheeling this spring, I'm going to be happy to have the protection! Mine was filthy on the inside and it was barely considered mud...

Other tube fenders that I've seen out there really do it backwards IMO and put too much coverage at the front of the wheelwell. Look at this one for example:

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and this one...

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The other flare I was considering was the Poison Spyder ones. They have a good look and offer lots of clearance, plus the shape is tapered nicely up front. The do lack a bit of rear coverage but for a rock rig, they seem to work well:

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Old 06-25-2019, 02:56 PM   #129
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Will do! I just got an email last night from MetalCloak saying they shipped and should be here this week... so much for "ETA 2 weeks" in the email they sent me on Monday! I'll pick up some paint next week and prep them throughout the week... maybe I can get them sprayed by the weekend!

I went with the 6" flare because my bud is giving me his 6" rear flares. Originally I was eyeing up the 4" flares, but it looks as though the 6" flare should cover a 12.5" wide tire on common 3.75" backspaced wheels. I may still get a set of non-coated "rub rails" for rock-wheeling though.

The MetalCloak fenders have always appealed to me. Even the 6" flares have a good shape and the coverage is really only in the rear, just above the arch and behind. They still taper nicely toward the front and give good clearance while protecting the cab from mud/water. I'll say that after my first river crossing and VERY minor mud wheeling this spring, I'm going to be happy to have the protection! Mine was filthy on the inside and it was barely considered mud...

Other tube fenders that I've seen out there really do it backwards IMO and put too much coverage at the front of the wheelwell. Look at this one for example:

Attachment 4159695

and this one...

Attachment 4159697

The other flare I was considering was the Poison Spyder ones. They have a good look and offer lots of clearance, plus the shape is tapered nicely up front. The do lack a bit of rear coverage but for a rock rig, they seem to work well:

Attachment 4159705

Yes - agreed on most tube fenders, and agreed on the PS fenders having a better shape. I really like the JCR fenders as well - they have a similar shape to the PS and are bent plate as opposed to tube and sheet steel. They are just wicked pricey for the fenders and inners, and I like the extra clearance of the hi-line or metalcloak design.
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:28 AM
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MetalCloak Rear 6" Flare Install

Phase III is underway

The MetalCloak front Overline fenders have arrived and I stopped down to my local paint shop to pick up a quart of "PCH" and etching primer. I also meet up with my buddy and fellow WF'er in Texas; we got to work on his YJ a bit and before I left, I packed up his unused MetalCloak rear 6" flares and mounting brackets (he traded me those for future axle and welding work). When I got them back to AZ, I began prepping for the install. The first step was to clean the wheel wells and get some 3M Professional undercoating under there:

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With the wheelwells freshly coated and dried, I began to prep for the flare brackets. Following the MC instructions, you measure back 1.625" from the rear seam, clamp in place, mark the holes and drill out to 3/8" (or 1/2" in two instances):

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The installation was easy, only took about 1.5 hours in total, including using the angle grinder to perform the "mod cut" at the front of the wheel well. It's important to note that since my tub was already cut for TJ flares, I'll have to eventually remove the flares and redrill a hole for the mounting plate somewhere where there is sheet metal to grab into (or just get a set of full corners!)...

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I love how the 6" flares just barely cover the width of the 12.5" wide tire (running 3.75" BS) at the top and then taper off nicely towards the bottom of the tub. As I stated earlier, the MC fenders and flares were always my favorites, combing the best look and features around. I'm getting really excited to get the fronts installed next, as well as the sliders from Santa!

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Over the past week and a half, the temps have spiked (pushing 114şF daily) and the humidity has climbed rapidly. This is exciting since it finally means that monsoon season is right around the corner. (us desert dwellers LOVE our monsoon storms!). The problem is that it also means that my hopes of getting the front fenders painted soon is unlikely to happen. I may reach out to the body shop up the block to see if they can spray these for me (I don't really want uncoated steel sitting in a warm, humid garage for the next 2 months), but with a pending vacation, that won't happen for another 2 weeks or so.

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Old 07-16-2019, 08:28 AM   #131
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Are your pictures not public or something? I see the links, but can not see the pics.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:08 AM
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Are your pictures not public or something? I see the links, but can not see the pics.
Nope, they are definitely "shared" and should be public. I'm finding more and more forums are having a hard time using Google Photo links, which is disappointing as it is a very easy and convenient medium for photo storage and sharing... I'll update the post while I still can with some old fashioned uploads

Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:28 AM   #133
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Better.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:03 PM
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Gonna bang out a few birds with one stone(ish)...

It's too hot to paint, so I'm found a small shop that will use my paint and primer to paint the fenders. While this is going on, I'll be able to strip the YJ apart, pull the motor, and get the V8 swap done. I still have a few things to do to the motor, but that isn't an issue since the paint shop is booked for 2 weeks anyways.

While I'm here, I'm going to tackle the tummy tuck. This work should knock out a few items on my list and still get me back on the trail for the time it begins to cool down...
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Old 10-02-2019, 11:23 AM
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Well, they say Dodge's are like Lay's chips - "you can't have just one"

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The Mrs. made a comment a few weeks back about how she wishes the W150 could seat four people. We have a Subaru that we love, but it gets crammed much the same as the YJ does with 2 growing kiddos in the backseat. We need an SUV and with my wife's penchant for driving small, nimble cars on her daily commute, the burden was on me...

So I did some thinking and almost dropped some coin on a trailer to begin building an off-road trailer to pull behind the YJ. But, after a little soul searching, life pondering, and Facebook Marketplace searching - a sweet 1993 RamCharger turned up.

I love RC's - my first vehicle and 4x4 was a '78 RamCharger. This one was factory built with a 5.9 Magnum, cruise, A/C, plenty of room on the inside and in great shape (sans the paint fade). It even passed emissions on the first try without even changing the plugs!

I'm going to pull the D60's I built for the W150 and swap those, as well as the 2" Skyjacker springs, Bilsteins, and 34" Discoverer's onto the RC. The W150 will eventually be sold, though I have some parts to make it complete and enticing to someone getting into the 4x4 world (such as a D44/60 combo).

The good news here is that I won't need to spend any money on a 4x4 trailer. Really, the concern was never the $$ but storing and parking a trailer used a handful of times per year in the RV yard, next to the 5x8' utility trailer that I use quite a bit. The RC also means that the YJ can get a bit more "focused", since I no longer have to worry about the backseat or rear passengers.
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Old 10-02-2019, 12:33 PM   #136
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Pretty cool RC. It will certainly make a good family wheeler on tons.
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Old 10-02-2019, 02:13 PM
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Pretty cool RC. It will certainly make a good family wheeler on tons.
Thanks! The tons are likely overkill and I almost considered installing the D44/60 combo I picked up for the W150 instead, but the D60's are already built with the gearing (4.88) and traction aids (TrueTrac) I want, plus have brand new brakes, brake cables, braided stainless hoses, etc. so it makes sense to use those.

One of the big advantages of the RC vs the W150 is the towing capacity. In 93, they are rated for 7500 lbs due to the more powerful engine and lock-up transmission. The W150, due to trans, WB and weight distribution, was only rated for 3000 lbs. This means we can use it to haul a moderately sized camper (which has been something we talked about for a while now) as well as tow the Jeep on a car-hauler if I want.

Like most 1/2 tons and many 3/4 tons, the brakes on the RC leave much to be desired, even without towing anything. Towing up to the 7500# max would make it unnerving at best and potentially dangerous considering the canyons we deal with here in AZ. The huge brakes on the D60F front and large drums on the D60HD rear will certainly add a bit of safety and comfort when pulling something that large. Since the rear D60HD is from a 92 W250, it has the sensor for the ABS too, which will add an additional level of safety.
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Old 10-13-2019, 03:54 AM   #138
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Finally got all caught up. Great build so far and looking forward to seeing future updates. Just out of idle curiosity is there any reason you went with the Isuzu rear vs a Wagoneer rear end? Just wondering as i occasionally see pairs of matched wagoneer axles on kijiji (canadian CL) and was not sure if it was worth looking into getting a pair if i ever go 6 lug on my Yj.
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Old 10-14-2019, 03:42 AM
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Finally got all caught up. Great build so far and looking forward to seeing future updates. Just out of idle curiosity is there any reason you went with the Isuzu rear vs a Wagoneer rear end? Just wondering as i occasionally see pairs of matched wagoneer axles on kijiji (canadian CL) and was not sure if it was worth looking into getting a pair if i ever go 6 lug on my Yj.
Thanks for the kind words

There were two reasons I went with the Isuzu rear vs a FSJ/Waggy D44:

1.) Availability - most of the Waggy/Jeep axle sets around here are D44/AMC20 combos or have a high-offset D44. To this day, I don't think I've seen a single FSJ narrow-width rear D44 on any of the local pages or Facebook Marketplace in well over a year, maybe even two now. I have seen a handful of J20/Wide-width axles and people are asking top $$ for some reason.

2.) Free upgrades - the Rodeo rear, aside from being extremely cheap ($60 at my local Pick-A-Part) comes with huge, 12.4" ventilated disc brakes. No custom brackets or non-factory calipers/pads, no need to custom drill a set of rotors, and no annoying or one-of-a-kind part to get the e-brake to function properly. I spent $15 in parts to make an e-brake adapter that lets me run cheap, OEM YJ brake cables and everything else is an off-the-shelf item.

If I had access to available FSJ D44 narrow-width rears, I probably would have bought one. That said, if a Waggy rear and a Rodeo rear were side by side in availability, I'd take the Rodeo rear. It has a better width (60.5" vs 58") IMO for use in a YJ and with the added disc brakes and often included Trac-Lok rear, it's a no brainer. Additionally, if you get a 96-97 axle, you don't even need to weld on new spring perches!
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Old 10-14-2019, 08:01 AM   #140
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well, they say dodge's are like lay's chips - "you can't have just one"

Attachment 4178087

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the mrs. Made a comment a few weeks back about how she wishes the w150 could seat four people. We have a subaru that we love, but it gets crammed much the same as the yj does with 2 growing kiddos in the backseat. We need an suv and with my wife's penchant for driving small, nimble cars on her daily commute, the burden was on me...

So i did some thinking and almost dropped some coin on a trailer to begin building an off-road trailer to pull behind the yj. But, after a little soul searching, life pondering, and facebook marketplace searching - a sweet 1993 ramcharger turned up.

I love rc's - my first vehicle and 4x4 was a '78 ramcharger. This one was factory built with a 5.9 magnum, cruise, a/c, plenty of room on the inside and in great shape (sans the paint fade). It even passed emissions on the first try without even changing the plugs!

I'm going to pull the d60's i built for the w150 and swap those, as well as the 2" skyjacker springs, bilsteins, and 34" discoverer's onto the rc. The w150 will eventually be sold, though i have some parts to make it complete and enticing to someone getting into the 4x4 world (such as a d44/60 combo).

The good news here is that i won't need to spend any money on a 4x4 trailer. Really, the concern was never the $$ but storing and parking a trailer used a handful of times per year in the rv yard, next to the 5x8' utility trailer that i use quite a bit. The rc also means that the yj can get a bit more "focused", since i no longer have to worry about the backseat or rear passengers.
a w e s o m e ! ! !
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:28 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by pc1p View Post
Thanks for the kind words

There were two reasons I went with the Isuzu rear vs a FSJ/Waggy D44:

1.) Availability - most of the Waggy/Jeep axle sets around here are D44/AMC20 combos or have a high-offset D44. To this day, I don't think I've seen a single FSJ narrow-width rear D44 on any of the local pages or Facebook Marketplace in well over a year, maybe even two now. I have seen a handful of J20/Wide-width axles and people are asking top $$ for some reason.

2.) Free upgrades - the Rodeo rear, aside from being extremely cheap ($60 at my local Pick-A-Part) comes with huge, 12.4" ventilated disc brakes. No custom brackets or non-factory calipers/pads, no need to custom drill a set of rotors, and no annoying or one-of-a-kind part to get the e-brake to function properly. I spent $15 in parts to make an e-brake adapter that lets me run cheap, OEM YJ brake cables and everything else is an off-the-shelf item.

If I had access to available FSJ D44 narrow-width rears, I probably would have bought one. That said, if a Waggy rear and a Rodeo rear were side by side in availability, I'd take the Rodeo rear. It has a better width (60.5" vs 58") IMO for use in a YJ and with the added disc brakes and often included Trac-Lok rear, it's a no brainer. Additionally, if you get a 96-97 axle, you don't even need to weld on new spring perches!



Thanks for the info! I have since found out from the friend i bought my YJ from that the Rodeos do occasionally pop up in the Pick your part yards. So there is a good chance i could find one.



It may seem a bit over kill swapping Dana 44s into my Jeep at only 3.5" lift and 33" Tires. The biggest reason i am looking at going this direction is to eliminate the CAD system and have locking hubs. I view the axle upgrade as a cheaper alternative to the hub kits out there to eliminate the Cad. I know a much cheaper option is simply swapping in the right side shaft from a TJ to go to a one piece shaft which essentially converts the YJ to having a full time 4wd front axle. And truthfully i may do the TJ shaft or Posi lok kit as an early stage upgrade till i manage to get the Dana 44 combo together.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:50 AM
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@Darkrider - Aside from the strength increase and easy hubs, the biggest benefit that I've enjoyed with the D44 is the brakes. The D30, while fairly reliable up to 35" tires, gets very taxed with even 33" tires in the braking department. Even on my '95 with the factory dual-diaphragm booster it was always a forceful push to stop quickly. With the bigger brakes on the D44, it feels much more poised and car-like in response. I can lock up 35"s on the pavement easily if I want...
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Old 11-08-2019, 02:11 PM
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Well the weather finally cooled down, but my travel schedule has skyrocketed! With work, Scouts, family trips and everything else, I finally decided that it was mandatory to get the fenders painted by a shop...

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There was a local collision place nearby that got good reviews, so I decided to give them a whirl. They quoted me 6 hours of labor (using my paint and primer) and a few $$ in shop supplies (rags, cleaner, sandpaper, etc). Total quote was $325 with a cash discount. I expect to have them back in about 2 weeks...

I've been thinking more and more about the future of the YJ. With the RamCharger underway and expected to be done by May of 2020, I'll start the tear down of the YJ shortly thereafter. In the meantime, I'm in "parts gathering" mode. I've decided to ditch the D44's (though they will go to another future project, my daughter's TJ). In place of them and in preparation of some 38" tires, I picked up a D70 rear from a First Gen Dodge Ram. These are great axles for a SWB Jeep IMO - they offer better ground clearance than a 14B and are only 65" wide. With a more modern 17" beadlock, this should provide good width without being too wide.

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For the front, that D60 hybrid axle (a 1997 balljoint D60 + D50/60 Super Duty hubs and knuckles) will be what I go with. It's a tad wide - 70.5" currently - so I'm going to experiment with chopping it down some. I'm targeting ~66" WMS width to compliment the rear.

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I just dropped off the RamCharger's transmission at the rebuild shop and am currently tearing down the 5.9L for machine work. Once that is done, I'll have a good running (albeit stock) 5.2L engine that will then be freshened up for use in the YJ. I've decided to get rid of the AX15 and convert to an auto trans. The question that remains now is do I go with a 727 and keep as much rear axle length as I can (giving up overdrive) or go with the 46RE... I haven't decided yet, but I'm sure I'll flip flop on that decision for the next 6 months or so anyways
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Old 11-08-2019, 02:35 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by pc1p View Post
The question that remains now is do I go with a 727 and keep as much rear axle length as I can (giving up overdrive) or go with the 46RE... I haven't decided yet, but I'm sure I'll flip flop on that decision for the next 6 months or so anyways
The 46RE isn't too bad. I had the 46RH in mine and that was much longer than the RE. I can't remember exactly, maybe 11" longer.
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:58 AM
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The 46RE isn't too bad. I had the 46RH in mine and that was much longer than the RE. I can't remember exactly, maybe 11" longer.
I had a chance to fully verify since I have 3 transmissions in my garage at the moment:

46RH (4x4) - 31-3/8" long
46RE (4x4) - 26-7/8" long
727 (4x4) - 26-1/8" long

So it looks like the 46RE is a viable swap candidate. I thought I'd be gaining a good bit of driveshaft length but apparently not the case... I guess I'll throw the 727 on Craigslist up for sale then
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Old 11-25-2019, 02:51 PM
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Well we had 3 days of rain - the good news is that the new cowl gasket and top is watertight, even when driving at highway speeds. I took a quick pit stop for a photo op...
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With the rain eventually passing, it was time to get to working on the MetalCloak Overline fender install. The process was simple but did take some time. The first and obvious step was to pull the factory fenders off, including anything attached to those fenders.
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Per the MetalCloak instructions, you start by bolting on the inner fenders first, then bolt up the outer fenders and align all the body lines before everything gets finally torqued down.
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I love the look of the fenders, though I may end up painting the inner fenders black (or using some undercoating). The brushed aluminum look is ab it blingy for my tastes...
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The fenders with the 6" flares offer a bunch of coverage, but boy do these make 35" tires seem awfully small!
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Unfortunately, the new fenders means I can no longer run my Viair OBA. I'm either going to make it "portable" using an ammo can or Pelican case, or maybe I'll save this compressor for my RamCharger and get one of those portable Viair compressors on a Black Friday deal.

Something I didn't realize is how out of place my "Classic" SB bumper would be with the new Overlines. Alongside a set of MetalCloak sliders, I will need to figure out what narrow bumper I'm gonna run with (or if I'm just going to cut mine and weld on some end caps).
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95' YJ Build thread | 4.0L 5-spd | RE Extreme 4.5" | Dana 44's | 4.88 gears | Eaton E-Lockers | 35" MTRs | 15 x 8 AR Baja's | 1" Daystar BL | TJ Flares | Adam's driveshafts | NP231HD | JB Super Short SYE | BDO 1" MML | Viair OBA | Warn XD9000i | Hella H4's |
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Old 11-29-2019, 05:56 PM   #147
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Originally Posted by pc1p View Post
Well we had 3 days of rain - the good news is that the new cowl gasket and top is watertight, even when driving at highway speeds. I took a quick pit stop for a photo op...
Attachment 4187377

With the rain eventually passing, it was time to get to working on the MetalCloak Overline fender install. The process was simple but did take some time. The first and obvious step was to pull the factory fenders off, including anything attached to those fenders.
Attachment 4187379

Per the MetalCloak instructions, you start by bolting on the inner fenders first, then bolt up the outer fenders and align all the body lines before everything gets finally torqued down.
Attachment 4187381

I love the look of the fenders, though I may end up painting the inner fenders black (or using some undercoating). The brushed aluminum look is ab it blingy for my tastes...
Attachment 4187383

The fenders with the 6" flares offer a bunch of coverage, but boy do these make 35" tires seem awfully small!
Attachment 4187385

Unfortunately, the new fenders means I can no longer run my Viair OBA. I'm either going to make it "portable" using an ammo can or Pelican case, or maybe I'll save this compressor for my RamCharger and get one of those portable Viair compressors on a Black Friday deal.

Something I didn't realize is how out of place my "Classic" SB bumper would be with the new Overlines. Alongside a set of MetalCloak sliders, I will need to figure out what narrow bumper I'm gonna run with (or if I'm just going to cut mine and weld on some end caps).

Love the look but gotta agree the MC fenders make the 35's look small. Maybe drop the lift size down to a 2.5" for a LCG look or 37's huh. Great build!
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Old 11-29-2019, 10:43 PM
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Love the look but gotta agree the MC fenders make the 35's look small. Maybe drop the lift size down to a 2.5" for a LCG look or 37's huh. Great build!
Thanks man, I really love the look too! I did some testing today and these fenders really open up the wheel wells... although it doesn't look like it, I'm riding the bump stop here and still have space for a 40" tire!

I'm actually building a Dodge D70 rear (65" WMS) and am cutting down a D60HP to 65.5" WMS to match, so I'll eventually need the space to run a set of ~38" tires. I will be going with a LCOG setup on 12-14" coilovers too, though I'll probably use a set of leafs in the short term to iron out other details like the engine swap and trans/tummy tuck.



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We did use the holiday weekend to good use (aside from eating too much!) - I took advantage of Dave's Custom Unlimited 20% sale and got a stubby bumper and a steering gear relocation bracket. I'm a sucker for the DCU stuff - all his YJ photos have a Pacific Coast Blue Pearl YJ

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The Mrs. car (she was driving my 2005 Outback) was rear-ended last week and due to the age was totaled by the insurance company. We ended up using the opportunity to get her into the Jeep world

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It's a lightly used 2017 Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 that was fully decked out with all the options we wanted. We drove two new GC's (a 2019 and 2020 model) as they had some fairly good deals going on, but we couldn't justify spending the extra $25,000 to get something with 20,000 less miles (plus the color scheme my wife wanted would have been a 3-6 week wait).
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Old 11-29-2019, 11:38 PM   #149
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“I love the look of the fenders, though I may end up painting the inner fenders black (or using some undercoating). The brushed aluminum look is ab it blingy for my tastes...”

Exactly my thoughts, that is why I sent mine to the powder coater out of the gate. Your YJ is looking really good!
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:48 AM   #150
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Thanks man, I really love the look too! I did some testing today and these fenders really open up the wheel wells... although it doesn't look like it, I'm riding the bump stop here and still have space for a 40" tire!

I'm actually building a Dodge D70 rear (65" WMS) and am cutting down a D60HP to 65.5" WMS to match, so I'll eventually need the space to run a set of ~38" tires. I will be going with a LCOG setup on 12-14" coilovers too, though I'll probably use a set of leafs in the short term to iron out other details like the engine swap and trans/tummy tuck.



Attachment 4188085

Attachment 4188087

Attachment 4188089

We did use the holiday weekend to good use (aside from eating too much!) - I took advantage of Dave's Custom Unlimited 20% sale and got a stubby bumper and a steering gear relocation bracket. I'm a sucker for the DCU stuff - all his YJ photos have a Pacific Coast Blue Pearl YJ

Attachment 4188091

The Mrs. car (she was driving my 2005 Outback) was rear-ended last week and due to the age was totaled by the insurance company. We ended up using the opportunity to get her into the Jeep world

Attachment 4188093

It's a lightly used 2017 Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 that was fully decked out with all the options we wanted. We drove two new GC's (a 2019 and 2020 model) as they had some fairly good deals going on, but we couldn't justify spending the extra $25,000 to get something with 20,000 less miles (plus the color scheme my wife wanted would have been a 3-6 week wait).
Very nice! Looking forward to watching the build progress.
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