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Old 08-22-2019, 11:57 AM   #31
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I did the back half of my truck frame with various wire wheels on my angle grinder. It did a great job, but those wires come out of there like darts and will go through jeans and stick in your leg. It did a great job though.

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Old 08-22-2019, 09:35 PM
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Oh, for sure! I’m well familiar with the laser-guided precision (and penetration power) of those errant wires. I still work in shorts but make the kids work in longs


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Old 08-26-2019, 08:11 PM
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So, the engine is mostly buttoned up - new rear main seal, to boot. Took the rear bearing cap off to make it easy (though Loctite 515 is not cheap! I hope it keeps well!).


Gotta remount the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. Before I do, what are y'all's thoughts on reusing flywheel bolts? FSM says no, but would like to know from actual wrenchers, and y'all are some solid knowledge bases, for sure.


Thanks, again, everyone! I'm itching to drop the engine in the chassis
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:21 PM   #34
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FWIW, the instructions state to not reuse the spring U-bolts. I reused mine and that was 4-5 years ago with no problems.

If I were facing replacing a flywheel and was wondering about new or used flywheel bolts, I'd run the bolts into the crankshaft by hand until they bottomed out. If they went in and out easily by hand, (indicating no thread distortion) I'd reuse them.
I'd make sure the bolts and threads were clean and dry and use non-permanent threadlocker.
Not that I would necessarily advise against what the FSM says to do, that's just what I would do. I've been known to take chances though.

If you're concerned, you can search sites like Rock Auto, Summit Racing or Fastenal for bolts. Perhaps Advanced Adapters will have the bolts.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:16 AM   #35
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I have never had an issue re using flywheel bolts.
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:33 AM
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Moving on to making her look more like a Jeep. Manifolds on, body soaking in the oil to get the mount bolts off (hopefully without cutting/drilling). We shall see. I see the PO's 'wiring improvements' under the dash, and my electrician self is horrified. Good times.


IMG_3503 by pencilrunner, on Flickr



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Old 09-08-2019, 08:45 AM   #37
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It is amazing how easy you can access a lot of the drive train etc. without the body in the way.

Good luck on the body bolts, they can be a real pain.
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:03 AM
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Body bolts. I was able to extract one. One. The rest will be either drilled out (assuming the weld-nut is still intact) or simply cut out with a whiz-wheel, with replacement nuts welded in their place.

I didn’t see much on folks documenting this process, so this one I’ll make an effort to get a better process documentation done, warts and all.


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Old 09-19-2019, 08:57 AM   #39
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Oh boy... I have seen images of the various body mount repairs. None of it looks particularly fun.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:54 PM   #40
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Drill a small hole in the body mount from the side or drill a small hole in the floor from above.
Spray the blind nut (sometimes called a caged nut or a caged nutplate) with your favorite penetrating oil. Do this twice a day for a week or so. Harbor Freight has an 25" 1/2" drive breaker bar for $20.00. If that isn't enough, stop by Home Depot on your way home from Harbor Freight and get a 6' pipe to fit over the breaker bar. Once the nuts are loose, your impact wrench should do the job.
Loosen the bolt until it's hard to turn and spray the nut through the hole you drilled. Then tighten it tight. Loosen the bolt until it's hard to turn and spray it again. Tighten and repeat until it's out.

UTUBE has a video comparing penetrating oils. I seem to remember that acetone and ATF work better than the commercial products.
Use a tap & die set to clean the threads on the bolt and the caged nut.
Use Anti-Seize when assembling.

Good Luck, L.M.
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"Wrangler....It's not just a vehicle, It's a lifestyle".
.................................................. ........................
1987 YJ-4.2L-Standard Shift- Re-manufactured Carter Carb-2" body Lift-31X10.5X15 BFG KOs-190K Miles No back seat.
HEI distributor with computer and all related relays and wiring removed.
12K Badlands winch with dual batteries.
Warn front bumper. Matching imitation Warn bumper on the rear.
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Old 01-13-2020, 05:28 PM
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Been a while, but unseasonably warm weather helped move her along.


Applied elbow grease to the problematic areas on the tub's underside, prepped and primed up with POR15 there, as needed, too.


Moose by pencilrunner, on Flickr


On ass by pencilrunner, on Flickr


8 of 10 body bolts were toasted, so we had to cut out the old nutplates, and fashion new ones.



Strip Steel by pencilrunner, on Flickr



The plates and cavities were prepped and proofed with POR15 as well, and are ready to be welded closed.


Cutouts by pencilrunner, on Flickr



Body is back on the frame, torqued down to spec, and ready for the next step - learning how to cut out remaining cancerous rust patches (easy) and get the repairs welded on (learning curve).


Almost by pencilrunner, on Flickr



On the plus side, a junkyard run netted us an OEM Mopar trailer hitch, which will hold a bike rack, nicely. Blasted and primed and painted prior to install.


Mopar by pencilrunner, on Flickr



Thanks to y'all for the guidance to this point! Such a blessing to have this forum, for sure!
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:25 AM   #42
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It is about time you did something. It has been a while. It sure was crazy how warm it was last weekend. You guys got a lot accomplished.
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Old Yesterday, 06:06 PM   #43
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good little driveway build
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Old Today, 11:54 AM   #44
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Great job your way faster then me. I'm 2and a half years in and still not done. my 23 year old daughter can change here own oil and tires and minor stuff, she will never regret learning. Our boys had to learn to cook and clean. and it was also mandatory for all, to drive a manual trans.

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