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Old 06-17-2019, 10:12 AM
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Clementine - Daughter's '93 4cyl/5spd

Since this is overtaking my own Desert Rat build, here we go . . .

Long story short - a dumb rookie move (and not doing research on compatibility) netted me a '93 4cyl 5 speed with a rotted frame. Originally intended to be a parts bin, it got a reprieve and will now be my daughter's rig.

Aside from the frame, it is in impressive shape for the $2k purchase price. Compression test was solid, and it's a heck of a way to teach the kid the dark arts of wrenching. Procured a (mostly) solid frame with 3.73 axles for $250, (these will be fitted onto my Rat at some point).

IMG_1236 by pencilrunner, on Flickr

This was stripped down, and then she got to powerwashing, needlegunning, and finally, cutting out cancer and welding a 2" square patch on the frame side (after a few practice welds, she did a pretty good job!).

IMG_2017 by pencilrunner, on Flickr

IMG_2013 by pencilrunner, on Flickr

At a later point in the week, we are going to apply the POR15 treatment to the outside, and Eastwood's frame spray to the inside.

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Old 06-17-2019, 11:05 AM   #2
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Awesome. Projects with your kids are always cool.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:36 AM   #3
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Projects with your kids are priceless.

Glad to see she is diving in and I am sure she will learn a lot over the course of the build.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:22 AM
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Any job worth doing . . . Frame is done with the POR15 treatment, with the Eastwood frame paint on the inside to boot. Finally ready to start slapping parts on.

Which remind me to ask. The rig has appx 2-3" lift leafs from Superlift, and the donor frame had appx 2-3" lift leafs of an unknown make. Is there a way to determine which of the two would be the better option to re-use? Gonna get new shocks, but the leafs I'll keep.

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Old 06-22-2019, 12:06 PM   #5
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Are there any numbers on the donor springs?

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 06-23-2019, 06:54 PM
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Are there any numbers on the donor springs?

No sir, nothing. No stamps or stencils. One pair of leafs had more leafs than the other, though. No military wraps on any eyes.



The Superlift ones are the same front and rear, and have military wraps on both eyes on every spring. They could use a cleaning, but seem to be in solid shape - so long as they aren't a really junk brand (I know nothing about them) I'm leaning to keeping them and toss the donor's. Are they of a decent build quality, or kinda junky?
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:24 PM   #7
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I don't know about Superlift springs.
What you can do is post in the YJ Tech forum asking for input on Superlift springs.
I wouldn't toss the other set of springs. I'd offer them for sale on CL for a nominal price.

Have you measured the length of each set. Cheaper springs tend to be a whisker shorter. I'd also compare the up side down height to see which set has the greater arch.
Military wrap springs are usually desired on hard core rigs, so they may prove to be the better choice, even if you don't plan on hard core off roading.

I'm not the best person to ask about springs. I have aftermarket stock height heavy duty springs that work well for how I use my Jeep.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 06-24-2019, 08:35 AM   #8
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The frame looks brand new. Did you top coat the POR 15? It gets chalky pretty quick without a top coat since it is not UV stable.

As for the springs.. It is going to be hard to say which would be better. More thinner leaves will ride better that less thicker springs. As Lucky pointed out, the military wrap is desired for off road stuff, but I don't see this being hard core any time soon. I would keep both sets. With all of the bolts being fresh and clean you could swap springs in an afternoon and see which set works best for your needs.
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Old 06-24-2019, 07:38 PM
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Alas, sir, I did not top coat the POR15 - simply ran out of time.



Heading on vacay to do some Lake Erie fishing with the kiddos. When I come back, I may just go ahead and get that Tie-Coat they sell, prime it with that, and give her a top coat.


Y'all are spot on, don't see her doing any serious off-roading soon, but one never can tell . . .
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:39 AM   #10
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Heading on vacay to do some Lake Erie fishing with the kiddos..
The charter that I follow on facebook is just hammering the walleye. I think they put 42 in the boat yesterday. Have fun.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:32 AM
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The charter that I follow on facebook is just hammering the walleye. I think they put 42 in the boat yesterday. Have fun.

If it's Al's "Just One More Fish" charter out of Vermilion, OH, then it's one heck of a coincidence! Yeah, they've been limiting early all season so far. I hope it keeps up for one more week!
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:18 AM   #12
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If it's Al's "Just One More Fish" charter out of Vermilion, OH, then it's one heck of a coincidence! Yeah, they've been limiting early all season so far. I hope it keeps up for one more week!
Nope. Blacktop Charter out of Lakewood, PA.
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Old 07-13-2019, 03:08 PM
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Back at it! Removed the front axle and leaf springs today. Soon to be transferred to the new frame.



In an odd bit of welcome surprise, the eye bolts for the leaf springs came out with absolutely no need for heat, cursing, or hammering. A first time for everything, I guess . . .



IMG_2887 by pencilrunner, on Flickr


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Old 07-14-2019, 04:13 PM
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Frame primed! POR15 Tie-Coat applied by my daughter while I dropped the rear axle and springs. Not a bad day's work. Next up, sand and paint, then the parts go on (slowly).


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Old 07-14-2019, 08:37 PM   #15
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I canít wait until my kids are old enough to help with Jeep projects. Frame looks good, keep it up!
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:41 PM
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Something about leaf springs make it look so much better. Feels like progress

Cosmetic paint on the old springs, new bushings. Gonna torque to spec and hang axles soon.



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Old 07-24-2019, 07:47 AM   #17
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When you start putting things together, rather than taking things apart you have turned the corner and get a great sense of accomplishment.

Looking good.
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Old 07-31-2019, 07:35 PM
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Progress - gas tank and fuel lines (mostly), sway bar, steering box, and skid plate. Now I've gotta learn to drop a tranny and transfer case . . .


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Old 08-01-2019, 07:47 AM   #19
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But that gas tank is so dirty... and you put it in those pretty clean frame rails.
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:47 PM   #20
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hand that young lady a pressure washer )
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
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But that gas tank is so dirty... and you put it in those pretty clean frame rails.
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hand that young lady a pressure washer )
Have her do the transmission X-member too.
Then she can paint it and the paint won't peel.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 08-05-2019, 09:22 PM
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But that gas tank is so dirty... and you put it in those pretty clean frame rails.

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Have her do the transmission X-member too.
Then she can paint it and the paint won't peel.

I convinced her to do a 'wipedown' but she wants some of the old muck to carry over to the new one. She's a romantic, I guess.


10-4 on the skid plate, though. It just looks half-assed otherwise Thanks, fellas!
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:11 AM
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Daughter and I went to town yesterday. Axles back on, steering linkage and such installed. Tranny and motor pulled from the old.

Starting to look like a win, here. Budget build, for sure, but it is fun as all hell.


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Old 08-16-2019, 08:07 AM   #24
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Looking good!
Nothing wrong with a budget build, just need to ensure that the end product meets its intended purpose.
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:58 PM
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Looking good!
Nothing wrong with a budget build, just need to ensure that the end product meets its intended purpose.

For sure, my friend. New bushings and u-joints, refreshed brake calipers, etc., all for safe and dependable (and hopefully, fun!) transport when she goes off to college.


Surprise find - the engine has a block heater. (That's cool, it's cold in New London!)
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:48 AM
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Started breaking down the engine on the stand for a refresh - had to clear the hoist as my son is swapping out a 4.0 on his XJ.

Lots of slack in the chain, and the engine was positively coated in oil, so it needs it. Curious why the headís mating surface to the valve cover isnít the same smooth, machined surface Iím used to seeing. Hopefully a vigorous cleaning, the good FelPro gasket set, a new PCV, and judicious use of PermaTex will solve any problems before they start.


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Old 08-21-2019, 11:14 AM   #27
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and judicious use of PermaTex will solve any problems before they start.
You know that you can get big tubes for the caulk gun right? That'll take care of it.
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Old 08-21-2019, 01:59 PM   #28
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I use a small wire wheel on my die grinder to clean up surfaces like the valve cover/head interface. Gloves and a face shield (not just goggles) are necessary when using a wire brush chucked into a die grinder. Cover the valve springs with masking tape and newspaper so that the little wires from the wire wheel that fly off don't get inside the motor. Plug the oil return holes for the same reason.
A drill is a safer substitute for a die grinder but takes more time.

I only use a Permatex type product to hold the gasket to the valve cover. Actually the product I use is called Coppercoat. I liberally spray it on the gasket and allow it to tack up. Then I set the gasket on the up side down valve cover and hold it in place with the VC bolts. There's probably other products that work the same way as the Coppercoat.
When I go to install the valve cover once the Coppercoat has set, I grease the gasket side that contacts the head. This allows the gasket to come off with the valve cover and to be reused a couple times until it begins to seep. The blue rubber Fel-Pro valve cover gasket has spacers to prevent overcompressing the gasket and thus causing a leak.

Since you have the motor hanging, remove the motor mount brackets (one on each side of the motor) and re-tap the holes. Then reattach the brackets, making sure that the attaching bolts don't bottom out in the holes before they tighten down on the bracket.
For some reason, many YJ's were built with the bolts just were a whisker too long and they bottomed in the holes before they tightened on the bracket. This caused a fair number of blocks to have a chunk of block break off due to the block flexing the bolts, leaving only one bolt to twist and take a chunk of block with it. That's why Brown Dog and others make motor mount brackets with more holes than the 3 from the factory. The additional holes in the aftermarket brackets allow the installer to use other threaded holes in the block to make a secure mounting.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:30 AM
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I use a small wire wheel to clean up surfaces like the valve cover/head interface . . . remove the motor mount brackets (one on each side of the motor) and re-tap the holes. Then reattach the brackets, making sure that the attaching bolts don't bottom out in the holes before they tighten down on the bracket.

I'm going to do all of this. I'd love to go the Brown Dog route, but that's a touch too much for me at the moment. A tap set and a DG, though, I've got those!


Thanks, so much!
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:44 AM   #30
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If you don't have a piece broken out of your block the aftermarket motor mount brackets are unnecessary. Simply make certain that the motor mount bracket bolts don't bottom out before tightening up on the bracket.
If you do have a piece of block broken out, then the aftermarket brackets should be used, at least on the side with the break.

Please note, with a wire brush in a die grinder, the little wires can and probably will fly out from the spinning wire wheel. They do so with great enough force to stick in whatever unprotected body part they can find. A face shield is necessary (not just goggles) and gloves. A heavy long sleeved shirt is handy too. I don't wear shorts so that isn't an issue for me, but I can tell you with the certainty of experience, the little wires that fly off will penetrate jeans and stick into the flesh of a persons leg.
The wires aren't any great trauma but if I can avoid them I do. Standing outside of the arc that the wires might take makes for a more comfortable experience.

I don't recall what the maximum rated RPM of a wire brush that's designed to be mounted in a drill might be, but I'm sure that it's not even close to the 10,000 RPM that my die grinder turns.
If OSHA ever saw one of my employees using that technique I'm sure I'd be facing a fine. There's lots of things that folks do, that if done with caution can be done safely. It's when they're not done with caution that we see the warning labels on all sorts of household items. Don't use a hair dryer while soaking in the tub comes to mind.
I always suggest to use caution and common sense while working with tools.

Good Luck, L.M.

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