Common Floor Rot Addressed - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Build Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-21-2016, 08:42 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 58
Common Floor Rot Addressed

A common theme with these YJ's is that they rot. Alot. Fast. Particularly the floors of the tub.

To address this here's what you're going to need:
-Basic Tools (Sockets, torx set, ect.)
-Angle Grinder
-5000000000x Cut off wheels (I recommend the harbor freight 10 packs)
-Air Chisel (This will save a lot of time and frustration trust me get one)
-Welding setup
-Replacement pans (Jeep Wrangler Body Parts & Accessories|87-95 YJ|Morris 4x4 Center)
-Replacement tub mounts (https://www.classicent.com/)

So running under your tub you have your body mount supports. These are where your frame bolts to the tub I have only found these for sale through classic enterprises. I highly recommend these guys. Great product nice guys.

First step, gut the interior, take it out. Everything bolted to the floors. The torx screws on the seat belt clips and roll bar mount can be a pain and will probably strip. Don't be afraid to cut the heads off the bolts. Once the piece is out of the jeep it will expose some threads and just notch it for a flat head, work it back and forth in and out hitting it with PB until its ready to come out. The seat belt bolts on the tub will probably need to be cut as well. So be ready for that.

The first cut you make should be in the middle of the floor just get a square out so you can see whats going on underneath. Take note of where your existing supports are. If you don't plan to replace them you don't want to cut them. On the driver's side there are fuel lines running along the frame rails so be careful and smart with your cuts.

I traced my new parts onto the floor so I could see where I had to cut and stayed a half an inch or so off of that line. Along the side panel however, you will need to separate the floors from the sides. This is where your air chisel is your best friend. Also you're going to F&[email protected] up your sides. Its going to happen get over it. Also you will need to remove the pedals to get all the way in there or you'll need a small grinder to get in there.

Now if you're going to replace the traverse support there are 4 spot welds on the top just behind the shifter. I drilled these out because they are hard to get at without ruining the sheet metal on top of it which you will reuse. You will have to cut out the transmission hump just behind the shifter and separate the inboard rails from the traverse support, again air chisel that S$%&.

At this point there is no floor in your jeep and you're thinking welp I'm screwed. You're probably 40 hours into it and you found 1500 other broken things along the way. Now is a great time to address that exhaust leak, replace those brake lines, u-joints. All that fun stuff.

Reassembly begins by placing those new supports and welding them to the tub. I used the body mounting holes on the frame to line the traverse support and outboard rails. Spot weld the traverse support to your side panel and the outboard rails to your traverse support where they meet and then to the back of your tub where they intersect.

At this time it is VERY important the jeep is parked on a flat level surface. If this part is not straight and flat your floors will wind up at 15 different heights and pitches. Your brand new floors will twist and bend. Place your panels and screw them into place once you get everything to line up. This includes mounting holes for the roll bar and seat. THEN weld save yourself the time and aggravation. Put all the panels in how you want them to sit screw them together, then weld.

Once you have the floors together typical body work/ clean up. Grind your welds, body fill and sand. Then I recommend lining the hell out of every inch of the tub. Get under the jeep and close any gaps between new floors and old metal. Hammer down the old to the new and weld it shut. If you don't you will be doing this job again I promise. Then line the bottoms of your floors. Reassemble your interior.

By this time your friends and family have forgotten you're alive, you probably haven't shaved in a week. Get cleaned up. Reestablish human contact. You made it.

All in all this job isn't "hard" per say. It is time consuming and terrifyingly easy to lose hope. But it is very doable.

The first picture attached gives you an idea of the locations of the supports. I forgot to mention you also have those toe board supports up front under the floor pans.

The second is an extension of the first

The third photo shows full excavation with the traverse support being test fitted.

More pictures to come. I'd be happy to answer any questions.



EDIT: MODS PLEASE MOVE THOUGHT I WAS IN THE TECH SECTION SORRY

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20160712_191722[1].jpg
Views:	295
Size:	199.4 KB
ID:	3161089   Click image for larger version

Name:	20160712_191913[1].jpg
Views:	272
Size:	216.3 KB
ID:	3161097  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Snapchat-2929041899707622679[1].jpg
Views:	221
Size:	186.5 KB
ID:	3161113  
__________________
It's just time and money right?
1993 2.5L 3.5" Superlift 31x10.5x15- Sold
1995 2.5L 5 speed (stock for now)
HoldMyBeerAndWatchThis is offline   Quote
Old 07-27-2016, 06:15 AM
Thread Starter
  #2
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 58
EDIT: If you are replacing the supports under the tub bolt in your roll bar and seats to the supports and then tack them in place. It will save a whole lot of frustration getting those damn holes to line up

__________________
It's just time and money right?
1993 2.5L 3.5" Superlift 31x10.5x15- Sold
1995 2.5L 5 speed (stock for now)
HoldMyBeerAndWatchThis is offline   Quote
Old 07-27-2016, 11:20 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
MudMagnetYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,322
Seems simple enough... What took you so long?


Nice write up and great work! I'm one for 1/8" steel and up, I hate sheet metal. The only good part of my YJ is the body and tub, and the transmission. Tub only has about two bad spots on it. So hopefully I won't need this, but...

If I go about replacing some of the floor, I'll dig this thread up somewhere.
__________________
Build thread for OJ, my YJ. 1993 Wrangler S 2.5L/AX-5/NP231 with SYE, Spartan locked Dana 30/Aussie locked Ford 8.8 @ 4.88, SOA lift with 2.5" OME HD springs and front Bilstein/rear Rancho shocks, Barricade 9500 winch, custom front and rear bumpers, 136 amp alternator, 35" Super Swamper LTBs.
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty 7.3L Powerstroke, single turbo, 6 speed manual.
Jeep manuals!
MudMagnetYJ is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-28-2016, 06:44 AM
Thread Starter
  #4
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by MudMagnetYJ View Post
Seems simple enough... What took you so long?


Nice write up and great work! I'm one for 1/8" steel and up, I hate sheet metal. The only good part of my YJ is the body and tub, and the transmission. Tub only has about two bad spots on it. So hopefully I won't need this, but...

If I go about replacing some of the floor, I'll dig this thread up somewhere.
I'm still not done. Haha. I'm pretty meticulous about lining things up also this was my first rust repair. With my trucks I just buy new fenders, doors, beds ect.

I can't emphasize enough how important it is to lay the panels down before you weld them in. Make sure those bolt holes fall where they should. I had to drill out my "keyparts" panels for the seat bolts, roll bar and the seat belt clip even though they came predrilled. I put those bolts in then used screws to screw it and then welded it. Also be real careful on the driver's side there are gas lines right there and a wiring harness. I started a fire there last night and got real lucky. That inner fender liner likes to burn.
__________________
It's just time and money right?
1993 2.5L 3.5" Superlift 31x10.5x15- Sold
1995 2.5L 5 speed (stock for now)
HoldMyBeerAndWatchThis is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeepģ, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC