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Old 06-03-2016, 10:31 PM
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So What Does a FREE Jeep Cost AKA 'The Best Laid Plans...'

If I'm honest, I wanted to hold off on starting this until I felt like I was somewhere where the project could progress at a fairly reasonable clip. As I stood there in my driveway covered in sweat, rust and dirt, overlooking the chaos I had wrought in my driveway, I decided now is as good a time as any. So without any further nonsense, submitted for your approval (It gets all sorts of 'ready' ahead.. just saying)

For those who didn't see the introduction post, I'll give you the reader's digest version of how we got from having an empty and a filled bank account to the opposite.

A teenager who I worked with bought a farm-fresh, 79 CJ7 from one of his Tech school instructors. Instead of addressing any of the countless problems it was made of, he promptly slapped a home made lift kit and a set of 32"s and drove it to death.

He sold it's remains to another coworker of mine who hauled it home and started to take it apart. Alas, Uncle Sam shipped him some marchin' orders and he had to relocate. Part of his relocating was getting this gem off the property before he moved.



For the cost of a tow I had a 1979 CJ7, title in hand. This is where things started to turn all 'National Lampoonish'..

Well, upon digging into it, I found the engine had given up the ghost, both drive shafts were bent, the frame was entirely home-made from the transfer case back, the tub was non existent, the front axle had less teeth than a crack addict, and on, and on, and on. In fact, the list of parts that were salvageable was significantly shorter than that last statement. When the dust settled and sawzall wound down, I had a engine, transmission, transfer case, and two axles.

I was on the fence about either rebuilding the factory 4.2 or swapping something else in. A '750 pound' engine stand I borrowed from yet a third coworker promptly made the decision for me...



Well. All of this was purely bench-racing without a chassis! A quick scowering of Craigslist landed me a 1978 CJ7 frame.



Things were looking up. Now I needed a tub. I put some feelers out on the old Craigslist, looking for either a CJ7 or a YJ Tub. I get a text from a guy who says he doesn't just have a tub, he has a whole a 1990 Wrangler, basket case! A quick 200 mile round trip out to missouri and back and the deal was struck.




And I might have went overkill on the engine stand...



Well, the only problem with the YJ is its title was a complete mess. Off-road only, salvage, three owners removed from me. But I still had the CJ7's Title and Vin. This is where the Square Headlight guys'll stop reading...



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Old 06-03-2016, 11:00 PM
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So that was then... Now begins the slow collecting of parts... And bonus, a rare, waterfree day in the basement..




I snagged some used 31X10.5X15s for a place holder. If I can turn those well enough, I'll stepped up to the 32's I had originally planned for. Most everything I read said automatic jeeps of this vintage came with 3.55:1 rear gears. I ran my vin through the vin decoder tool at jeep.com and it said I had 3.07s. I figured it was a mistake. The tool said there could be errors going back that far. So I went and crawled under it and sure enough, the axle tag said 3.07. So going to need some gears. 3:55's for the front axle, for whatever reason seem to be expensive as all hell. But I managed to score some used ones out of an 89 cherokee off of Fleabay.



One of the few things that has gone right/actually worked out was the transmission from the CJ7. It is an actual Wide-range Borg Warner T-18 with the 6.32:1 low gear (I checked the serial number against Novak's website and then stuffed it in low and counted the turns. Not taking anything for granted anymore. Of course it was still encrusted in the... 'agriculture' from the farm it was dragged off of.



Theres a bolt in there somewhere..



And the old Iron Dana 20 removed...



Everything was going to well, I decided to remove the NP231 from the automatic. The good news, it was 23 spline! So either a Novak or Advance Adapters piece will work. The bad news, this was in the tail housing/adapter between it and the automatic transmission..





And this is the input shaft and seal on the NP231. Something is trying to escape. I'm guessing the wire is the remains of a seal's spring.


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Old 06-04-2016, 08:59 AM
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Back to craigslist... now this was actually kind of cool. These popped up about 5 miles outside of town and the guy selling them turned out to be an older gentleman who had a photoalbum of Jeeps he had rebuilt over the years and a garage of random jeep awesomeness. So that turned into an hour long conversation. He told me to hang onto his number..



Also, as it FINALLY STOPPED RAINING for 24 hours out here in lovely Kansas, decided to dive into it. removing the roof, and the tub actually only took about 90 minutes. The ministry of finance there, overlooking the progress.




I keep seeing everyone elses builds in these awesome garages... or at least garages. I just have a shed that knows somebody. As it stands, if I lift the jeep to put 31s on it, I don't think it'll clear the door. But thats the next project...
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:54 PM   #4
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Nice progress. Keep the updates coming.
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:42 PM
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Got the axles off. It was all going too easily, so I decided to break the two bolts that held the steering box/swaybar assembly to the chassis, instead. Flame wrench...



Also took the opportunity to drain stand the chassis up and remove about 20 pounds of freakin' sand from the chassis. I found a shop about 40 minutes away that can both sandblast and powder coat the chassis. I'm ditching the track bars, pondering if I want to hack the brackets off the chassis.



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Old 06-06-2016, 03:58 AM   #6
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Keep up the good work! I started on frame of resto on a farm use jeep about a year ago...she should be on the road in another month!
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:40 PM   #7
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Good god. You should be made a saint of jeeps. Sub'd
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:12 PM
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Welp, if it's going to look 'CJish'... ought to ride CJish... not like the track bars were going back on anyways... I stopped when it got dark for the sake of neighbor relations...


And a soothing salve of black rattlecan to keep the it rust away until we can get it to the powder coaters.

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Old 06-09-2016, 10:53 PM
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Kind of in a holding pattern. I'm going to try to get the chassis in for powder coating next week. In the meantime, I figure I should start getting the axles dissassembled and cleaned up. Also, brown Santa brought me a nice, standard transmission column with none of that pesky tilt nonsense. Seeing my old one was both a 3 on the tree... and freakin' melted...



Also took a few minutes to drag some of the stuff I won't be using out of the garage and put it on craigslist (Mostly I'm tired of having to climb through my garage like John McClane through a duct). Just for shytes and giggles, lets see if I can scrounge up the cost of powder coating the chassis before the bill is due. (I can totally afford it either way, I'm not that much of a jerk).
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:28 PM   #10
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Looking forward to this.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:39 PM
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Got a little distracted last night after I started monkeying with the rear axle. I had more time to dig into it tonight..

Once you ditch 'Track', you never go back..


Now I need a new carrier and set of 3.55's for the rear. I'm waffling on if I want to bother with some alloy axle shafts for it.



Also when my boss went to lunch I may have thrown the T-18's bellhousing in the parts washer. That Ozzy parts washer... yeah.. I'm pretty sure that's just piss warm vinegar in that thing..

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Old 06-10-2016, 11:09 PM
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Side Tracked...

I'll admit, this has nothing to *Technically* do with the build. But it is interesting (At least to me, anyways). I managed to find a new home for the CJ7 frame and put some powdercoat money in my pocket... I dug it out of the garage and laid it along side the YJ frame. That was when I really started to notice the differences between the two frames. And while they stood there momentarily, like two ships passing in the night, I bust out the camera and took some snaps. If it isn't obvious, the YJ is the black frame, the '7 is the primer gray one..

Most obviously first, the YJ's frame is wider..



Front leaf spring perch. The CJ's, besides being smaller, are held on by 2 rivets in the crotch and a couple questionable spots welds.



Rear cross member where the tub mounts. The YJ has way more material and bracing.



Front shock mounts. The CJ was a narrow track (Or so I was told). Way more beef in that pesky wrangler..



Excuse the sideways. Photobucket isn't wanting to rotate them. This is the front of the chassis, leading up to the cross member that supports the grill. You can see how much thicker the YJ chassis is, besides not being two pieces of stamped sheet metal stuffed together..



Rear shock mount is nearly twice as wide on the YJ.



Rear leaf spring perch. The YJ being solid bent piece of box steel, the CJ... well.... there sure is a lot of welding at least..



And lastly, the rear of the chassis leading up to the rear bumper support. The CJ being the thin one on the left.



Don't get me wrong! I like CJ's just fine. Hell, I was trying to build one, thats why I have the chassis. But the next time some geezer's tells you your wrangler's all soft and can't hack it you could be like..

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Old 06-11-2016, 12:57 AM   #13
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Great build, keep it up!
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:51 PM
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Been a while since my last post. Got a lot going on and haven't had a chance to get much further with the Jeep. For what it's worth, the Chassis is currently getting sandblasted and powder coated. I'm expecting to get it back this week.

So I called a local shop, asked how much to swap the Dana 35 from 3.07 to 3.55. Gears, carrier, install kit, labor, $750. So I went and picked up a good, used carrier, ring and pinion and ordered an install kit. Called back and asked how much to put it together. $500... After years of working in a shop, I should have seen that coming. So I used one of my 'I know a guys' and I'm waiting to hear back from another guy. If not, I'm guessing I'm going to learn how to set up a ring and pinion on my own. (Totally open for pointers)



In the mean time, might as well clean up and spraybomb the axles. I'm not one of those immaculate undercar guys, this'll be a driver. But It can at least not be rust speckled.




And a couple days ago, the Brown Santa stopped by and dropped off these... some 2.5" Procomp leaf springs..

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Old 07-01-2016, 06:31 PM
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This is a completely shameless plug. IF you are in North East Kansas or even the Kansas City Area, and you need something powder coated, Hobby Monster Customs in Tonganoxie Kansas should be your first stop. The people are awesome, the prices are reasonable, and this thing is sexy as all hell...




And here it is tetrising my hard top precariously! Because this couldn't end badly..



Because my driveway has become even more cramped! We got a phone call last night that my brother's stolen motorcycle had been found. We decided my driveway was safer than his (We clearly have historical precedence on this...). Of course now it looks like a Ratbike from the old Road Rash 3D Videogame..



And in case anyone was wondering, I managed to raise nearly 90% of the cost of the powder coating by selling parts I won't be using on Craigslist.. Which brings me to another point I wanna make real quick. Craigslist has been as much a part of this project as my Horrible Freight electric impact gun. I've done a lot of business on CL over the years, and met a lot of shady people and questionable humans and had strange meetings in parts of town I'd rather not go. But literally, every single person I've dealt with on CL regarding Jeeps or Jeep Parts.. has just been a class act that I have had no problem giving my address out to. Also met another forum member. And everyone I've met, we always talk Jeep for half an hour. Must be a Jeep thing...
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:14 PM
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It never @#$%ing ends...

Sadly, since my last post, which mostly consisted of setbacks... My luck hasn't improved terribly much. To the point where the my Saner Half is asking if my family had pissed off Gypsies at some point. First, the Jeep Stuff.. I bit the bullet and took both axles down to 4X4 Land in Topeka to have the ring and pinions set up. They seemed cool with me handing them loose axles that were missing pieces (In my defense, they did say all they needed were the axle housings and the carriers/install kits.. thats what they got )

Which left me to deal what we'll call 'everything'. So I decided to start with the U-joints. Now I know full well the title of this Wrangler says it has less than 35,000 miles on it at the time it suffered its... we'll call it a malfunction. And there are things that I see that support that number. The brake pads/shoes are thick as texas toast, there is very little rust on the body or frame, the bushings were tight. Nothing looks like it was leaking too badly. Then I find things like this.



Also for a 35K mile vehicle, the shocks on it were surprisingly rough and I mean enough sand poured out of the thing to fill Tut's Tomb. I'm beginning to think the vehicle drove off the dealership lot, across the street, into the woods and never saw pavement again... which would explain why it caught fire...

Brown Santa, making every day Christmas, dropped off this...



Which brings me to my to this handy bit of information. Evidently the kit is designed to work with factory leafsprings. The bushings included in the kit for the leaf springs eyes on the shackle side are a 1.25" OD. The bushings that go in the springs that connect to the frame are 1.5" OD and require you push out the metal bushing sleeve. Now the 1.25" Leaf Spring Bushing will not work with my ProComp leaf Springs, those take the 1.5" OD Bushing. If you want to run aftermarket springs with the 1.5" eyeholes, you'll need to get two boxes of these...



These are the 1.5" OD, 1.2" barrel length with the bevel cut on the outside to work with the shackle (Rather than get shaved off when things get all Flexy). They're actually for Chevy Fullsize/K5 Blazers, but fit legit.

And just to round off my collection of Setbacks. Remember how I posted that my brother's motorcycle was stolen and recovered and now residing in my way? Well, three days after we got it back, my 63 year old Father's Jeep was stolen out of a handicapped parking spot, because if you are going to be the world's largest sack of crap, go hard, right? Well, it too was recovered!



And running like ragged ass.... and painted what appears to be with latex house paint?... And because things were going so swimmingly... this happened on the way home from the freakin' impound lot..



So now the driveway has one completely disassembled Jeep.. one stolen/recovered motorcycle.. and one stolen/recovered jeep.. Woman's gonna disown me if I don't un#$%@ this monkey...
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Old 07-23-2016, 02:45 PM   #17
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Haha looks like your dad is going to get an insurance check!
I like how you compared the 2 frames side by side and will be watching your progress.
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:56 PM
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I called my father over to give me a hand today. After 5 hours of cursing and sweating and herniating ourselves, this is what's sitting in the driveway. I just finished mounting the fuel tank/skidplate before the thunderstorm rolled in and called it day..



Got both axles back from 4x4 Land. Both are now equipped with 3.55:1's (Anyone want a set of 3.07s? Figured I'd ask... ) New seals in both, the front and the rear. New carrier bearings. New U joints in the front axle, new ball joints, top and bottom, new bearing hubs in the steering knuckles. The tie rods seem tight. I cleaned them up and regreased them.



New Rancho Galvinized U bolts, front and rear, Pro-Comp 2.5" lift springs. I refurbished the factory shackles and epoxy coated them, and sitting on some energy suspension bushings. Now things are getting expensive. Going to need to order an advance adapter's kit so I can have the T18 bolted to the NP231. The adapter has a mounting foot to bolt to the cross member, But I have the sneaking suspicion that the T18's length is going to put that foot nowhere near the factory position on the cross member. Once I get that figured out then the crossmember will get sandblasted and powder coated to match the chassis.
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:19 PM   #19
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great thread, looking forward to reading more soon. subscribed.
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Old 08-20-2016, 11:03 AM
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Oh yeah. And things I learned: VINEGAR IS AMAZING AT REMOVING RUST. I mixed one gallon of Cleaning vinegar (Not cooking) And two gallons of tap water in a bucket and walked away from it for 24 hours. The rust just sloughs off. Some light scrubbing with a brush (Either nylon or brass) and the part comes out looking awesome. You need to clean the part, make sure theres no dirt or grease first. It will soften paint, but slowly. Bare metal works the best.



Thats just after spending a night in $2.60 worth of vinegar. Best of all, you can just dispose of how you see fit because it's just vinegar and iron oxide.
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Old 08-20-2016, 11:17 AM   #21
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Getting there. How much has this free Jeep cost you so far?
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:51 PM   #22
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Definitely subscribed! Sounds like a 1975 dodge 1/2 ton 2- wheel drive to 3/4 ton 4x4 project I once got involved in. Yeah... Is it really worth the price of admission, even when admission is free?

All joking aside tho, it usually is. I really like creating something from essentially nothing. Sense of pride.

Built not bought... Haha but what that really seems to mean, is bought 1 piece at a time, then too much time and energy and money put into restoring that one piece so it works on the jeep.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:25 AM
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I sat down and crunched the numbers on the big ticket items I remember so far. I'm sitting around 5 'ish'.. When I'm finished (Or at least taking a break, am I right?) I'll probably be around 9 'ish', maybe 10. But when the dust settles, it will be a completely rust free, mostly zero mile jeep set up just as I want it.

Sure, could go sign on the dotted line and get myself a clean TJ with 100,000 miles for 8 or 9... Or for about 4K find myself a nice, flogged-to-death YJ with 175,000 miles on it. But lets be honest, if we were a practical people to begin with, we'd all be driving toyota corollas..
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Old 02-15-2017, 01:53 PM
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Last season, on 'SWDAFJCAKATBLP'.... We ended on a cliffhanger after I stormed out of my job because I WAS SICK AND TIRED OF ALL THE BULL ! ... Things are back in motion.

This is what it looked like when I decided to put it away for the winter. The springs are only supposed to be 2.5" lift. I'm guessing they'll settle once she's together and gets some mileage on her. Those are actually a used set of 31s in the picture. The good news is, I think I'll have more than enough room for the 32s I'll ultimately want to go to.




Weather isn't quite where I'm wanting it yet, but I have some stuff I could be doing indoors with it, still. Today, this arrived.





Now the T-18 and the NP231 are going to need a rebuild before the mating of the two. After reading some destructions and watching some questionable Youtube videos, I've taken the famous-last-word approach of 'How hard can it be?'. I've decided to tackle it myself. I mean, if we're honest, if there exists a transmission that I'm actually going to be able to rebuild, it's probably this thing. If nothing else, I know a good transmission guy and we can all have a laugh...

But now we're getting into the unknowns and the questions...

Should I get an SYE? I was under the impression that I wouldn't need one with only 2.5 inches. How much will the jeep settle? I doubt my automatic drive shaft will fit. I'd hate to order a custom driveshaft just to have the suspension settle and then start bottoming out...
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:21 PM   #25
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I will follow along with this one.

Since you are going to rebuild the case and will probably need a drive shaft anyway, you might as well do the SYE. I have read where a lot of guys still get vibrations with the 2.5" lift and have to lower the t-case skid. It kind of fits with the attitude that you are taking with the rest of this build...do it once, do it right.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:39 PM   #26
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Now that I a mall caught up...Keep going
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Old 02-27-2017, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep View Post
I will follow along with this one.

Since you are going to rebuild the case and will probably need a drive shaft anyway, you might as well do the SYE. I have read where a lot of guys still get vibrations with the 2.5" lift and have to lower the t-case skid. It kind of fits with the attitude that you are taking with the rest of this build...do it once, do it right.
That's kinda what I was going for. There may be a few things I come back and change later. As for the SYE I haven't ruled it out. But I'm not jumping straight to it. I'm thinking that the T18 with the adapter is going to be somewhat shorter than the TF999 that was living there, so I'll be able to run a longer driveshaft.

A lot of guys who have a vibration after even a 2.5" lift got it because they were running the factory driveshaft. Which is still short, steep and pulling the yoke half way out of the transfer case. As such, I'm thinking if I had a conventional driveshaft made to length for the ride height and having the yoke seated properly I might not actually need a SYE.

The tub is going to be the last thing that goes on and I still need to figure out where the transmission mount is going to sit (I've held off on getting the skidplate powdercoated until I get that situated/figured out). Once the engine and transmission are mounted I'll have a better idea of what the angle will look like and be able to make a more informed decision from there. Slapping the SYE on when there isn't a tub on the jeep would be easy enough.

I'm also thinking that running 32's with 3.55's would keep my driveline RPM down. But a good Pro SYE argument is I have a lofty goal of wanting a 70 MPH cruising speed. 32's and 3.55's should get me there around 2600 RPM's.

It's the balancing act between trying to do it right the first time and not wanting to spend money on parts that I don't actually need (Think of all the money we saved by not going to a school to learn how to do it the right way the first time! )
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Old 03-19-2017, 01:28 PM
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Moar parts! Moar questions!

So I thought about it and talked to a transmission guy I've dealt with and had pretty good experience with and he said he could rebuild the 4 speed for a little more than it would cost me in parts alone for the rebuild kit through Novak for the T18. So that seems like a no brainer. But I'm still going to tackle the transfer case myself... In the words of the world's favorite orangutan; 'How Hard Can It Be?'



Well, not very evidently. Judging by the massive amounts of silicone smeared throughout the transfer case, I'd say some monkey's already been up in here...



They actually got it up into the bearings...



Also I have to wonder if this bearing was like this before or after they took the transfer case apart... This was the piece escaping from the seal when I separated it from the old TF999.



But with a modest amount of cursing, it did eventually come apart.





And what will be going into it! I did chew over some of the suggestions, did some more reading and decided to play it safe and just ordered the Advanced Adapter's Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit to stuff in there (And my girlfriend says I never listen).

I also figured that the NP231 wouldn't like me as much when I stuffed it between a Borg Warner T18 with a 6.32:1 first gear and a set of 32's being turned by 3.55's. So I picked it up a 1.25" Wide chain set off of eBay. And a shiny new overhaul kit.



Questions: Now before I go trying to put this together, a few things need figuring out.

1st: It's my understanding that if I put a 1.25" chain in the NP231J Case, I need to leave the brass syncro out because the sprocket needs the width? Is this true or false?

2nd: I want a planetary with more than 3 pinions now, but I'm not entirely sure which ones fit the case. I'd take 4, 6 would be ideal, but not sweating it. I'm not exactly sure which ones fit my case. There is said to be a pitch difference in the teeth on the pinions? I know you can take two planetary gears and drill/press/hammer/weld them into one, but that's last resort, I feel. Does the four pinion ones from the Dodge Dakota/Durangos fit? Seems to be the closest. This is my NP231's model number.



Oh yeah... and I happened across a Jeep Grand Cherokee that had seen better days and decided it didn't need those pesky rear disc brakes anymore..

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Old 05-28-2017, 12:11 PM
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I'm not going to lie and say mistakes weren't made. I'm thinking I probably shouldn't have told my transmission guy 'If it takes you a couple weeks, that's cool. There's no rush'.. That was 6(?) Weeks ago... But there is plenty to keep me busy with, regardless.

I decided to try my hand at painting. I originally wanted to do it in a satin orange. But I really don't have the equipment, the compressor, the gun, the patience, the skill, etc. I decided to see what kind of orange/finish I could get at home. Those of you who are painters and body folk, look away...

Starting point: A nice, half-assed, 20 year old reshoot of Ford Oxford White over the original 'viper silver'. For which to start my fresh, half assed reshoot of Gloss Orange..



For best results, shoot in dank, dimly lit basement. Breathe deep.





Massage until smooth.



Buff until presentable..



I kind of figured if the tailgate came out decent, I'd go for it. But I'm kind of on the fence about it. I learned quite a bit (Acrylic sucks to work with, mostly). I feel I can get better results... Fortunately, jeeps are made of small, easily removal parts. Lets give it one more try... DundunDUUUN...



To be continued....
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Old 06-29-2017, 01:47 AM
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They say the NP231 is a transfer case that can be rebuilt in an afternoon. Hold my be

So I called the transmission guy and was told the 4 speed should be getting his attention any day now. It seemed like the perfect time to try rebuilding the T-Case. I did cheat a bit and took the case to shop to have them press the bearing in and out. I probably could have hammered them out on the work bench, but rather than risk gouging the snot out of everything, let the pro's do it.

Monday:

So I got this 1 1/4" wide chain, I heard rumors that the shift-on-the-fly syncro would have to come out, I'm glad to say it doesn't...



And as a bonus, it didn't come with that needle-roller bearing that they wanted me to remove for the Slip Yoke Eliminator.



Advanced Adapter's SYE Shaft is much beefier than the OE unit, especially by the speedo drive.



On the shaft...



Changing over to the 6 Pinion planetary...



As I previously mentioned, someone had already monkey'd around inside this T-case and the planetary was actually missing one of the plastic thrust washers. The shaft/sun gear itself was hardened and looked pretty unscathed, so I decided to press on.







Wide chain fit like a glove!



Now: In the nature of full disclosure, I'm going to tell you where everything went wrong. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES. I put the silicone gasket maker on the case, installed the cover and torqued everything to 25 foot pounds spec! Then I realized the spring for the gear shift rod was sitting on the work bench and totally not inside the transfer case. I let out a full Charlie Brown angst cry and took the damn case apart. Fit the spring and put the case back together.

I then went to bolt the front yoke on the output shaft. I torqued the bolt pretty damn far and still wasn't getting any preload on the bearing (The shaft kept slipping in and out). My knee-jerk reaction was to put the gun to it and make it fit. I decided discretion was the better part of valor and took the case back apart a second time.

Upon closer inspection the shafts were different (Beyond being for a wider chain). And the yoke wasn't sliding flush/achieving preload.

It was getting late and the better half was coming home from work so I decided to call it a day. Also, I couldn't for the life of me find the huge snap ring that held the planetary/input shaft in place. After much searching of the web, I found the snap ring and ordered another.

Thursday...

I decided the shaft would work and I was overthinking it. I cleaned up the shaft with a bit of 1000 grit sand paper (It was used, after all) and the yoke slid on there like it was made for it. I reassembled the case, went out to the mail box and found that 4WD had sent me the snap ring that holds the sungear inside the planetary. But the parts number matched. The picture matched what I was looking for and they even describe it as the input 'shaft'.

Friday...

Called 4WD, was on hold for 10 minutes, got transferred to another department, was on hold for another 10 minutes. After 5 minutes of trying to explain that I needed the snap ring that held the input shaft to the case, I was told they didn't have a part number. Which usually means dealer only part. So I called the local Jeep stealership and somehow managed to get the one guy in a parts department at a Jeep Dealership that didn't understand the term Transfer Case...

So I jumped in the truck and drove across town. It took about 10 minutes, but we found the snap ring. It would be in tomorrow..

Saturday....

I beat the door down at the parts department, got my swag and hit the work bench, pretty determined to have this thing together before I had to go to work. Snap ring installed, Yoke torqued to 100 pounds (Middle of the road, range is like 90-120).

Now, if you have ever read an advanced adapter's instruction set, it left a little something to be desired. It states 'on some NP231's the shift rail must be shortened to fit in the pocket in the tail housing. And mine is one of those, because of course it is..

It then goes on to say that the transfer case should be shifted to where the shaft is fully extended to 1.5", and then it should be cut down to 1". As illustrated by these pictures of the shaft being at 1 and 5/8th and shifted to 1 and 3/16th's...



And this is how we keep metal shavings out of the transfer case..



And shortened..



And shortened more, because I decided to go with the length in the picture first. The correct length is 1" long, as measured from the flat of the Transfer case.



Tip; put the oil pump on before you mount the cover of the case and save yourself some aggravation..



And that was where I had to head to work..

Tuesday...

So I finished putting the thing together, and noticed it wasn't shifting. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but I was really running out of patience. I ran into the problem of it not shifting when I worked the shift rod and was about to go off the deep end when I discovered the plug I had installed in the airs-switch hole was hitting the shift cam.

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