The Build Plan, is it a good one? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Build Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By jeffreylane
  • 1 Post By Jak_Rak
Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-26-2017, 09:29 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
The Build Plan, is it a good one?

Bought a YJ that the body was in great shape. Barely got it home and it died. I have had a ton of fun rebuilding with my son and now it is running well, with all kinds of stuff new (axle and transfer case seals, ball joints, carb, soft top/hardware, 4wd actuator to manual, brakes, ebrake, fluids) but is still stock in most areas. I'm a fair shade tree mechanic/parts changer but, this is our first jeep.

It will be a daily driver for my son and he wants to lift it 4" suspension, and maybe 1" body and run 33" tires. I do not have the space and time for it to be on the "rack/jackstands" in the garage for 2-3 weeks while I lengthen all the lines and wiring. is this doable with just the kit or is it a lot of extra work to lengthen all the lines/wires. What is not in the kit that is going to bite me besides 20yr old rust? It is not rusty for it's age, it's really in great shape but, it is still old. Thanks.

Dirt Daddy is offline   Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 09:45 AM   #2
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 31
Should be a fairly straight forward project. Just buy the kits to do it, and you should have everything you need. You should be able to finish suspension and body lift in a weekend without a problem.. Not alot to lengthen. You will need longer brake lines. You will also need longer shocks, but those come with most lift kits, especially at 4". Best advice I can give is to start spraying PB Blaster on ALL the bolts that will have to come off now. This will save you some frustration when you do the lift.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

jeffreylane is offline   Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 11:39 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
daddyjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Smethport, PA
Posts: 3,953
I agree with Jeffrey. As long as you are not fighting rust too bad it can be done in a weekend. I might do without the body lift. there is no need for it to clear 33's.
__________________
87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT
DaddyJeep build Thread:https://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/dad...ld-122601.html
daddyjeep is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-26-2017, 12:41 PM
Thread Starter
  #4
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Thanks a ton for the advice. I'll drop off the 1" body lift then. I was hoping the brake lines would be OK but, as long as I know what's coming I can work around it. I've dealt with the bolts and I dip the new ones in wheel bearing grease before reinstalling for next time. You buy a old 4wd to have fun breaking it so there is always a next time.
Dirt Daddy is offline   Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 12:51 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 31
95 Chevy 2wd 1500 front brake lines are an inexpensive way to get longer brake lines on front. 95 Durango rear brake line will give you a longer one for the rear. Both are inexpensive from Rock Auto.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
RawhideClab likes this.
jeffreylane is offline   Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 01:00 PM
Thread Starter
  #6
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Awesome. Thanks. Is there a ton of difference between 4 and 6" labor, cost, driveability? We need to keep it where he can drive it daily but, still have some muddy fun and look good. If I have to replace the brake lines anyway for 33's...... I saw daddyjeep's 35's and it's nice. Just thinking out loud.
Dirt Daddy is offline   Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 01:15 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
cracked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lake Hopatcong, NJ
Posts: 504
how do you feel about swapping in a heavier rear axle?

the stock dana 35 is a weak axle, even for 33's let alone 35's, if you wheel it too hard

I've seen broken d35's with 31's and a heavy throttle foot
__________________
˙ɹǝʌo ɹǝʇndɯoɔ ɹnoʎ dılɟ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
cracked is offline   Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 02:55 PM   #8
Newb
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: coastal NC
Posts: 10
It's also a daily driver. The bigger the tire the more fuel it's going to drink. You might have to regear for 33's, you will definitely have to regear for 35's. How good is the compression on that motor, and how many miles on it? You didn't say what year, but you did say "carb" so there may be rejetting involved. Jeeps are not plug and play, when you change one thing you have to change several other things. 35's look cool, but do you want to rebuild a tired motor or change gearing in the diffs or tune the carb for the increased demand?
__________________
'93 YJ Sahara 4.0L 5spd....*Under Construction*
SquareEYE is offline   Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 12:33 PM
Thread Starter
  #9
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Sorry for the delay, work keeps messing with my lifestyle. You answered the question. It's a 1990 and that is far more than we need for a daily driver. I had heard I needed to investigate a dana 44 (supposedly, there is only 1/2" difference, project for another day). The entire vehicle just hit 100,000 miles and once we did the nutter, tune up, and carb, it fired right up. It's still strong mechanically but it's been holy hades on the rubber seals sitting up without running for 2-3 years. Everything leaked. Everything. Now we just have the drop of oil a day leak that all chrysler products seem to develop.
Dirt Daddy is offline   Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 04:21 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
sccritterkiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,018
What size motor and what is your gearing?...if you running 3.07 gears anything over 31s and it won't get out of its own way...4" of lift will probably require and sye and possibly a drop pitman..
__________________
90' YJ 4.2L 5spd, OME 2.5" Lift w/OME shackles, 1" BL, Clifford 6=8 upgrade, Weber 38, HEI, 33 x 12.50 KO2s, slave swap, SWAG tailgate, SYE, sporting a "Woody" DS, 8.8 running 4.10s, Warn Pt 10s, ARB locker up front.
Emissions/Inspection: NO
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/a...o-1779242.html
sccritterkiller is offline   Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 07:56 PM
Thread Starter
  #11
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
I don't know the gearing. I'll have to jack it up this weekend. The front tag has discintigrated away other than the ring on the bolt and the back is very rusty but it looks like 3.07. Stock 6 cylinder 4.2L automatic so a highway use makes more sense. I read how you did yours SCcritterkiller and it sounds exactly what I'm after. You got a nice jeep there. Something for hunting and driving logging roads for fun yet still driving to school everyday. Maybe we back off to 2.5" and 32s. If you don't mind me asking, how did you get the parts to fix the rear rot. we don't have near as bad a case as your pictures but the bottop of the frame is gone. I had planned to weld some plate in small sections till I got it all the way to the end of the rust
Dirt Daddy is offline   Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 10:20 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
sccritterkiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,018
Autorust.com..you can pretty much get every section of frame. Others don't like the 1" body lift...I didn't really install it for the lift but more for acess and maintenance...if these old Jeeps came with a 1" BL from the factory there would be a lot less with frame rot...I can access a lot more stuff, fuel lines and ps lines, and keep my frame cleaned off...something to think about

If you have a 4.2 manual I almost bet my boots your have 3.07s...I ran those gears with 32s...just finished a regear to 4.10s...just saying..I think autos came with 3.73 which with 32s should be fine
__________________
90' YJ 4.2L 5spd, OME 2.5" Lift w/OME shackles, 1" BL, Clifford 6=8 upgrade, Weber 38, HEI, 33 x 12.50 KO2s, slave swap, SWAG tailgate, SYE, sporting a "Woody" DS, 8.8 running 4.10s, Warn Pt 10s, ARB locker up front.
Emissions/Inspection: NO
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/a...o-1779242.html
sccritterkiller is offline   Quote
Old 07-31-2017, 12:00 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
daddyjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Smethport, PA
Posts: 3,953
My post was not necessarily against body lifts, just that is was not needed to clear the 33's. I have the Daystar 1" body lift on mine so I could move the drive train up a bit.

With the 4.2, you will definitely have 3.07 gears. Back when I had that drive train I was running 31's and it was ok. When I jumped up to the 35's it was not ok. Best plan in my opinion is to find a front axle out of a 4 cyl Jeep with 4.10's and a rear Ford 8.8 out of a late 90's explorer with the same ratio. That will put in a much better place for 33's and be acceptable for 35's.
__________________
87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT
DaddyJeep build Thread:https://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/dad...ld-122601.html
daddyjeep is offline   Quote
Old 07-31-2017, 12:58 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
Ladybuggin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 34
I've done a few iterations on my YJ to get it where it is today, and one of the first was a SOA. From what I'm reading on your initial post, you're looking to keep it spring under. I didn't see a brand of lift, and it plays a big part in ride quality.. Do you already have one in mind?

I'm going to put in a second to the other posts mentioning the Model 35 and gearing. As previously mentioned, if you have 3.73 gears, she'll get the job done. If they're less (3.07), you'll need to regear. That being said, there's no reason to spend the money regearing a 35. You'll need to get a D44 or 8.8, fit it, then regear it. That way you're investing the money in something worth it.


Here's my two cents on the build:

1. At 4" of lift you're going to need an SYE. I would recommend an Advance Adapters unit as the one in my has never failed. The SYE will also require a new rear driveline. Be sure these are ready to go, and in the budget. Usually people remove the t-case to install the SYE, but I've seen it done with the t-case still in the Jeep. My basic break down is: if you've taken apart a t-case you'll be fine doing it installed, but if you haven't done one, pull it and get a long bench. That way you can lay out all the parts and not screw it up. Be sure to double check the pinion angle on the rear axle when you're done. It should be pointed about one degree below the t-case output so when the axle wraps under maximum torque it's straight at the t-case.

2. I'd recommend a RE (Rubicon Express) 2-1/2" kit over the 4" kit. It WILL rub when you're wheeling, but for a daily it will be fine. It keeps the Jeep lower (again better for a daily), and rides much smoother IMHO. If you're into the look, by all means go with the 4". However keeping the COG lower makes a big difference on and off the trail.

3. The RE kit can be combined to get the shocks, brake lines, and pitman arm. These are all things you're going to need, so why not get them as a whole package? I'm 100% into custom, but I get the feeling that's not what you're going to do at this stage. That being said, getting the kit as a package typically means the items work in harmony saving you the headache of "custom". Trust me, when you get to the point where you want to make it "custom", be sure you have that spot in the garage for the Jeep to sit on jack stands!

4. Call some 4wd shops about pricing on parts. You can buy the stuff online, but it's tough to get customer service out of a website, or from the shop you didn't buy the parts from in the first place. I've found buying from a shop isn't much more expensive (usually they price match), and you get the knowledge from their staff. When you call (or if you go online), try asking some questions (e.g. brake lines, shock extension vs. replacements, etc) and see what kind of answers they give. Do they know what they're talking about, or can they help if you need it? I'll tell you from personal experience, I buy from two local shops, and there's been many a time when they've given me advice that saved time and money.

Like I said initially, I've done several iterations on the YJ. If you have any questions about what I've said, or something in general, feel free to ask!
Ladybuggin is offline   Quote
Old 07-31-2017, 04:45 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
sccritterkiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,018
Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep View Post
My post was not necessarily against body lifts, just that is was not needed to clear the 33's. I have the Daystar 1" body lift on mine so I could move the drive train up a bit.
I wasn't speaking to your post directly. BL doesn't have the greatest street credit around here.....just didn't want the OP to completely disregard it...they have some great uses just not as a substitute for suspension lift.
__________________
90' YJ 4.2L 5spd, OME 2.5" Lift w/OME shackles, 1" BL, Clifford 6=8 upgrade, Weber 38, HEI, 33 x 12.50 KO2s, slave swap, SWAG tailgate, SYE, sporting a "Woody" DS, 8.8 running 4.10s, Warn Pt 10s, ARB locker up front.
Emissions/Inspection: NO
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/a...o-1779242.html
sccritterkiller is offline   Quote
Old 08-03-2017, 10:21 AM
Thread Starter
  #16
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Thanks to all for a bewildering and educational journey. We do not have a kit picked out but I am leaning toward RC due to cost and the reviews. It seems like a good value. He will use it for the rest of High school, college and into his first job so we really need to lean toward a driver moreso than a mudder. I am leaning toward keeping the Axle over the spring, 2.5" lift, and 32's. That'll appease his looks and 4x4 wants while maintaining some road sanity. I'll weld up the frame rot when we do the lift. The body lift I'm going to think on. Good points on the frame and access. Get a winch installed so he can do some logging/forest service roads for fun. He can make it a rock crawler when he gets out of college/mechanic/trade school.
Dirt Daddy is offline   Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 02:19 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
daddyjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Smethport, PA
Posts: 3,953
I think you are on the right track.... mild lift and 32's. This will certainly reduce the snowball effect that larger tires will have on light duty Jeep components. Even with 32's, that rear Dana 35 will be at risk for failure so keep that 8.8 in mind.
__________________
87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT
DaddyJeep build Thread:https://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/dad...ld-122601.html
daddyjeep is offline   Quote
Old 08-10-2017, 02:09 AM   #18
Jeeper
 
Jak_Rak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Lewis Co.
Posts: 158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Daddy View Post
It will be a daily driver for my son and he wants to lift it 4" suspension, and maybe 1" body and run 33" tires.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Daddy View Post
He will use it for the rest of High school, college and into his first job so we really need to lean toward a driver moreso than a mudder.
I can understand a young fellow's desire for lift and tires, but if the main purpose of the Jeep is going to be a student's daily driver for the next 4 or 5 years, I would reconsider the lift entirely, especially if it's just for looks. I wouldn't suggest tossing a new(er) driver into a lifted rig, but that's me.

As you've already discovered, the domino effect comes into play pretty quickly once you start modding. I think a stock YJ would serve a budding offroader just fine, especially if it's also his primary street transportation. Some good tires and then...a winch, if I was going to suggest the next step.

My YJ has no lift. I run 30 x 9.50 x 15 ATs on stock Ravines, and I have no problem running trails, Forest Service roads, or sand (public beach and small dunes, not Glamis). I'm not taking her to Moab, but I do take her playing in the back 40, and for most easy to moderate adventures she does just fine. I can drive her anywhere on asphalt (just took a 400+ mile round trip last week, and knocked down nearly 20 mpg doing it) and still get her dirty when I want.

If I had to suggest a lift in this situation, I would say go with a 1" body and throw on some 31s. It will look cool but keep you from getting into everything else at this point. Acceleration and mileage might suffer a little, but not as much as with 32s or 33s.

Again, just my 2 cents. YMMV.
dbjeeper likes this.

__________________

Gimme rectangle headlights and leaf springs!
'94 YJ, 4.0, AX-15, hardtop, full doors, original radio.
Jak_Rak is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeepģ, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC