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Old 01-30-2016, 01:34 PM
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Za'afaran (Saffron) 1995 YJ Build

Hello Everyone,

As some of you might already know I just bought my first jeep, a 1995 4.0 6 cylinder YJ, less than a month a go. it has more than 197K kilometers (123K miles) on it but the engine is swapped with a 1997 model. The PO had few mods on it as mentioned earlier.

Since I already emptied my pocket on few items and repair parts, I'm willing to start my build thread and hope to learn from all of you. Luckily the jeep doesn't have a lot of rust, only few spots here and there.

As everyone likes pics, here are some when I first bought it.




On the day of picking it up


Nothing beats a good warm bath. Washing it from the inside as well, Yikes! I learned it the hard way and had to keep the car air dry for a week in the sun in order to be able to start it again


List of parts ordered:
  1. Powdercoated Black Windshield Tie Down Kit Jeep CJ Wrangler YJ 1955-1995
  2. 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ, Gray Color, Dash Glove Box, Glovebox, 005029
  3. BESTOP 80009-15 SPORT BAR COVER WRANGLER 92-95 BLACK DENIM COLOR
  4. TOM DUAL BATTERY TRAY 91-95 YJ TMB-1005-T
  5. LICENSE PLATE BRACKET 87-95 YJ 55007403
  6. MOULDING WINDS 55019988
  7. WINDSHIELD REVEAL MOLDING YJ 55134655/55010655K
  8. CLIP-REVEAL MOULDING-YJ WINDSHIELD 55134656
  9. WINDSHIELD COWL RUBBER 87-95 WRANGLER D4004
  10. DOOR SEAL 76-95 CJ YJ PASSNGR FULL STL 55176222
  11. DOOR SEAL 76-95 CJ YJ DRIVER FULL STEEL 55176223
  12. GLASS SCRUBBER 76-95 PASS OUT D2008 55024254
  13. GLASS SCRUBBER 76-95 DRIVE OUT D2007 55024255
  14. GLASS SCRUBBER 76-95 PASS IN 5762384
  15. GLASS SCRUBBER 76-95 DRIVE IN 5762385
  16. SEAL-TAILGATE 87-95 WRANGLER 55009742
  17. PPR LIFTGATE SEAL 87-95 YJ 55010064 LGS8795
  18. FACTORY YJ HARDTOP CORNER SEAL-DRIVER D4014
  19. FACTORY YJ HARDTOP CORNER SEAL-PASSENGR 101515
  20. HARDTOP SEAL KIT D4012
  21. CR LAURANCE PP301HV WINDSHIELD SEALANT PP301HV
  22. OMX REAR VIEW MIRRO KIT 76-12 JEEP 11020.02
  23. HOOD COWL SEAL 87-95 YJ 55008119
  24. Rough Country 87317N2 - Steering Stabilizer with Premium N2.0 Series Shock
  25. CIPA 44401 Jeep Wrangler Black Half-Door Manual Replacement Passenger Side Mirror
  26. 2 Pieces (SET) Tuff Support Back Glass Lift Supports 1987 to 1996 Jeep Wrangler YJ
  27. Viair 20001 VIAIR 200 PSI Ultra Duty Onboard Air System
  28. Herculiner HCL1B8 Brush-on Bed Liner Kit
  29. 6 of Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart
  30. MAG1 120 Premium DOT 3 Brake Fluid - 32 oz.
  31. 5 of Valvoline VV370 DEXRON-VI Full-Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart
  32. 6 of Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart
  33. Lube Locker Dana 35 Differential Gasket
  34. Lube Locker Dana 30 Differential Gasket
  35. 2 Corbeau Baja SS Black Vinyl w/ Red Cloth seats with adapters (Current seats are crap and damaged by some sort of an animal)
  36. 2 Harness Belt Red, 5-point 3" Cam Lock, Bolt-in (The car currently has 1 seat belt only for the driver and no one else)

Can't wait for it to arrive, meanwhile, I started with removing the seats in order to prep for the bedliner. I have to bolts that are stuck and still holding the driver's seat. I just need the PB Blaster to arrive to work on it. Moreover, the PO had some sort of a carpet, a sound deadning thing, and a crappy bedliner job! Everything has to be removed and scraped.

Here are some photos of the first stage of cleaning and scraping. Here we normally go to the desert seeking great sand dunes, hence the ton of sand in the trunk/bed.










Then some cleaning of the gauges








My speedo wasn't working but I found out the plug was disconnected from the TC. I plugged it back in but didn't have the chance to try it out yet. Fingers crossed!

Later on I removed the fenders to paint them with some undercoat spray.



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Old 01-30-2016, 01:36 PM
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I have some issues with the clutch master/slave cylinder that I will address once I get the oil then I will flush all remaining oils (engine, differentials, gearbox, brakes, and transfer case). What remains to get this babe on the street is the exhaust pipes. Currently it is running without an exhaust, yes, it is LOUD! The 3" headers are cut immediately below the engine as per the image below:


As I don't really know what to get or how to solve it, I seek some advice here. Should I just buy a borla muffler with the end tip and have some 3" pipes connecting it to that part under the engine?

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Old 01-31-2016, 09:03 PM   #3
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Now, that's a parts list! Looks like you have a great start.

I cut my exhaust off during my rebuild in about the same place as yours is cut. I took mine to the muffler shop and told them that I wanted it to be a little louder than stock, but not annoying. He installed a Dynaflow (20 inch UltaFlo, I think). I'm happy with it. It depends on your preference, but it was some much easier for me to take it to someone and it cost about the same as doing it myself.

Hope this helps, good luck.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charleybrwn13 View Post
Now, that's a parts list! Looks like you have a great start.

I cut my exhaust off during my rebuild in about the same place as yours is cut. I took mine to the muffler shop and told them that I wanted it to be a little louder than stock, but not annoying. He installed a Dynaflow (20 inch UltaFlo, I think). I'm happy with it. It depends on your preference, but it was some much easier for me to take it to someone and it cost about the same as doing it myself.

Hope this helps, good luck.
I was thinking of doing the same by taking it to a shop and let them do the exhaust but I'd have to check first what kind of stuff they have. I'm not really confident they would have many options as Jeeps are not a common car in the city I live in now, kind of a bummer.

If I managed to find an Ultraflow, Borla, or any other brand, should I buy the muffler only and have the shop fabricate the remaining parts and connections? Should that muffler be YJ specific or it can be a general one? I'm guessing it should be a YJ one but I'm trying to find more options for myself from our local market as buying a complete exhaust online and have it internationally shipped will delay a lot of other future upgrades
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:51 PM
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Just a quick update on the build and where do I stand now.

1. Speedo is still not working properly even after cleaning. I noticed it moved a little once when I was driving but I couldn't dig further into the problem.
2. Clutch master/slave cylinder has been replaced with a new one and it is working like a charm
Old

New


3. Differential front/rear oils has been changed. Front differential cover painted in Red

4. Transmission oil has been changed.
5. All brake piston leaks fixed, pads changed, cleaned, and oil flushed.

6. Dashboard painted in black
7. Steering stabilizer upgraded to Rough Country N2.0

8. Some interior cleaning
9. Removed those ugly fog lights
10. All spark plugs changed. Some where nasty!
Here are the old ones;



Anyone can tell me what is this plug for?


Here are recent photos of the car, please excuse the bad looks and how dirty it is. I just had to snap few phone shots.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:18 AM
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Overdue Update

It is time for a long overdue update on this build.

I honestly didn't do much until I order my 4" Zone Offroad Lift Kit. While waiting for the parts to come from UAE (United Arab Emirates), I wanted to get the jeep ready and install the 1" Browndog MML and the 1" Daystar BL.




Old body mounts




From the last picture, I can tell my jeep is slightly tilted to the left!

Here is the jeep before installing the BL and Lift kit, obviously.



Then when I received my lift kit, I started working on the rear springs first;

What a difference!

Old HUGE shocks


In the last picture above, I got the springs installed backwards. The shackle side should mount on the other side and the other side should mount on the shackle side!

One of my springs was broken in half


PO had some custom shims welded on


New shims are in
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4" Zone Offroad Lift Kit with TC drop, 1" Browndog MML, 1" Daystar BL.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:28 AM
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Rear lift installed





Checking on the pinion angle, it looks bad and very steep. Look at that yoke almost slipping out and the driveshaft is not turning freely!



Here is a video of how it is not moving freely:
https://cl.ly/2K2V0R2W1j2Z/720.mov

I didn't want to install the TC drop but the jeep was not driveable. Here are some photos after installing the TC drop



And here is the video of how it can freely turn now.
https://cl.ly/3d0t0D0A2A05/IMG_0226-web.mov
It is obviously not perfect but at least the jeep is moving.

This is how it stands now




These wheels grew on me once they were painted. I just need to paint the lug nuts as well.
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4" Zone Offroad Lift Kit with TC drop, 1" Browndog MML, 1" Daystar BL.
Check out and follow my Za'afaran build thread
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:48 AM
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While checking the pinion angle, I got the u-joints replaced but noticed that the yoke looks like this:





This is definitely caused by the PO as I never heard any sound from under the jeep while driving it before the lift kit install. Even after installing the lift kit, I didn't drive the jeep. Once I noticed my pinion angle is steep, I immediately modified the setup and installed the TC drop.
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4" Zone Offroad Lift Kit with TC drop, 1" Browndog MML, 1" Daystar BL.
Check out and follow my Za'afaran build thread
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:47 PM   #9
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that is just ...... painful to look at ....
don't forget that you'll need to change the fill level of the rear. With the upwards angle you can go by filling till it comes out the hole. I took note of the "level" fill angle at the pinion, and with the new angle i have, will be welding a short piece of pipe nipple to the rear cover with the lower edge of it at the same height as the original fill line at the pinion side.
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by X-Bird View Post
that is just ...... painful to look at ....
don't forget that you'll need to change the fill level of the rear. With the upwards angle you can go by filling till it comes out the hole. I took note of the "level" fill angle at the pinion, and with the new angle i have, will be welding a short piece of pipe nipple to the rear cover with the lower edge of it at the same height as the original fill line at the pinion side.


Do you think it is ok to drive with it or do I have to replace that yoke? Switching to a CV DS and SYE kit is in the near future.

Thanks for the full level tip. I will keep a note of it.

The thing is now Iím having a lot of vibrations but I think it is from the front shaft as I saw it shaking when the shop was aligning my steering and wheels. It definitely needs new joints but it wasnít shaking like that before the lift!
The vibrations start around 20mph until 50mph (estimated numbers as my speedo is not working) and I get a click sound if I step on the gas heavily especially in 3rd gear.

Another question that comes to my mind; Iím thinking of replacing my transmission mount but does the TC have its own mount? I couldnít see any on my vehicle and that kept me wondering what is holding it?
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:17 AM   #11
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Edited since that is in full droop in the video ... how much engagement do you have in on the ground loaded position? there isn't much showing in video at all, a little worriesome. that yoke is junk imho.
One mount supports tranny and t-case.

Front shaft -- might be sloppy joint or splayed yoke ears. mine has almost 1/8th side to side movement. check and possibly get new u-joints would be my initial advice on that. could also be geometry issue caused by the lift.
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:17 AM
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Edited since that is in full droop in the video ... how much engagement do you have in on the ground loaded position? there isn't much showing in video at all, a little worriesome. that yoke is junk imho.
You mean how much does it hit the yoke?
Are you suggesting replacing the yoke or can I still use it until I swap in an 8.8?
I contacted Adams DS and they said if I buy a DS with an SYE now, it will be too long if I swap my rear to an 8.8. Therefore, I'm thinking of buying it after the swap instead of having someone shorten the Adams DS!

One more thing I noticed today is that my rear DS is not straight with the TC and is slightly moved to the right. I will try to snap a picture to show how far it is. Not sure if this was there before the lift or not though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Bird View Post
One mount supports tranny and t-case.
Great, thanks. I might need to replace mine though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Bird View Post
Front shaft -- might be sloppy joint or splayed yoke ears. mine has almost 1/8th side to side movement. check and possibly get new u-joints would be my initial advice on that. could also be geometry issue caused by the lift.
Just got new u-joints for the front shaft and had it aligned at a shop. Vibrations reduced but it is still there.
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:53 AM
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One more thing I noticed today is that my rear DS is not straight with the TC and is slightly moved to the right. I will try to snap a picture to show how far it is. Not sure if this was there before the lift or not though.
Here is a photo showing the slight angle! I understood that leaf springs do centre the axle, and hence, there is no need for a track bar. Any thoughts?



I also retorqued all shackle bolts to 50 ft-lbs while having the vehicle on the ground. Then I remembered reading here in the forums that having a polyurethane MML will introduce some rattle and vibrations in the cabin, I loosened the bolt that goes through the bushing until it barely touches it while also properly torquing the engine mounts to the frame.
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4" Zone Offroad Lift Kit with TC drop, 1" Browndog MML, 1" Daystar BL.
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Old 02-26-2018, 07:17 AM   #14
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I've seen driveline "misalignment" in many vehicles in "from the factory condition," especially those that are old frame/body or front subframe/rear unitbody configurations. Just the other day i checked centerline on my transmission while setting up my cage mounts and found that it's is off center by 3/4 of an inch or so to the passenger side. I have yet to check the rear pinion center or look at whether any adjustment can be made at the engine mounts to get it spot on. A little bit of adjustment at the engine mounts could make for a significant change at the tail end of the transfer case.

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