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Mojave Sandstorm build

70K views 203 replies 27 participants last post by  jblank444 
#1 ·
OK, this is my first thread EVER! ANY WHERE...so here goes (and if I'm the only one who ever visits it, that's OK too :) )
So this is to show the mods and my work I do to my '16 Mojave Sand JKU Sport. I ordered it, so it's exactly what I wanted.
I'll include some patterns and parts break downs for the things I fabricate my self (in my small garage, with limited tools, some skills, free time, and way too many "clever but overly complicated" ideas). It's clearly a USAF theme from my 20 years active duty (AMMO!) When I seen the Mojave Sand color, I fell in love and knew I'd militarize it.
Oh, and since I have a 24" vinyl plotter (I did decals on the side for about 15 years) I might go a little overboard with the decals, but I'm tryin' Ringo...I'm tryin' real hard to be the shepherd. :).
With all that said, here's my first pics from when I got it. I added the hood and doors USAF "Stars-n-Bars", and the hood side lettering, on day two. Just FYI, the USAF is obviously the Air Force, the 2W071 was my career field (munitions spec. It was originally 461X0 when I joined in '86, but was re-designated around '90-ish?)
 

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#29 ·
Then it was just a matter of cutting the hole for the 2" light/grommet, and installing them. The light was just a cheap trailer light that I gutted for the lens.
As a note, I did spray two good coats of rattle-can bed liner on the back of the lens, over the fiberglass, to block any light from showing through the fiberglass. The grommet covers most of the fiberglass windows, so it was mainly just the top corners.
 

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#30 ·
Part three of the tail light build: The adapter plate.
So I had some 12g steel plate in the garage, and decided to use it. I was a little worried about the thickness of the steel, not for the four outside holes mounting it to the light housing, but the six threaded holes (having enough threads to mount the lens cover) and I didn't want to go too heavy with it (it's not real structural). Turned out not to be an issue. Made some patterns, cut them out (damn I wish I had a band saw!) drilled and tapped accordingly. Sounds a lot easier than it was (the inside hole took a while with the dremel). But a simple design.
Note, the cross-line on the patter isn't meant to mark the center. The lens and housing have dividers (to keep the light from bleeding/illuminating each other) that are about 5/16" off. I was just marking that so I could make a filler piece. Made one out of bent 16g, but didn't get pics.
 

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#31 ·
Part four of the tail light build: Odds-n-ends.
One thing I noticed during (much) testing, was the backup light beam. The converted marker light lens didn't have a diffuser, so the backup light came out more like a flashlight beam.
So, I cut two pieces of the stock backup light lens diffuser, sanded them to fit, and inserted them into the 2" lenses. Made a huge difference.
I don't know why the lens looks yellow in the top pic, it's clear.
Bottom pic just shows the backup lens without/with the diffuser added (before paint).
I used a bead of Mopar black RTV between the adapter and housing, and the mil surplus lens has an O-ring seal, so everything should still be weather tight.
The End :)
 

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#33 ·
Yeah, that's the plan. Figured I'd get steel bumpers and tube fenders (and maybe sliders) and have everything painted at the same time (post test fit but pre final install). That's a bit too much for my low skill rattle-can base/clear that I've been doing on the small parts. I'm not exactly a body/paint guy :). But collecting all those parts will be slow.
 
#34 ·
Got some pics of my home-made tail lights at night (pics aren't great, but it's the best my $40 camera could muster).
The reds are just running lights, not brake (couldn't get my dog to stand on the brake pedal for a pic. She kept trying to start the engine ;)). Obviously the brakes are a lot brighter.
The camera lit up a little bit of the side reflector in the first pic (makes it look like light bleed, but there isn't any).
Workin' on an idea for the front turn signals, trying to get it done in time for the Veterans Day parade, but I'm waiting on parts that I hope will be here Wed...it'll be close, and a mad rush if I get it done in time.
 

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#35 ·
I read your signature below your post.

I’m there with you. PTSD is a bitch. Even when folks say they wanna listen, its still crap. I came to a point I interviewed them first.

Here is my first question;

Tell me about your closest moment anytime in your life you knew you were gonna die.

Honestly into it. Facing it, experiencing death, wanting it, it hurts, the pain is so bad. That final moment. It doesn’t come, not yet anyway...

Such reactions are priceless moments to behold.

That deer in the headlight saying describes well...

The shrink’s swill.
 
#37 ·
I read your signature below your post.

I’m there with you. PTSD is a bitch. Even when folks say they wanna listen, its still crap. I came to a point I interviewed them first....

The shrink’s swill.
You're a better man than me, I won't even talk to any of them. I might be misguided, but I think in the near future, that diagnosis will result in the loss of certain rights that I currently still value (the 2nd comes to mind).
Funny thing, I've been a musician (and done the bar-band thing on the side) for 30+ years. Since I retired I've been writing/recording my own originals (just rough demos on an ancient 8-track recorder), just for myself. I've never let anyone else listen to them. Recently I let my brother hear some, and he said "Those are really good, you should put them on the internet. But why are the lyrics so dark?" I just thought, you should see the stuff I haven't recorded yet :). And probably never will...
 
#38 ·
That's what this place is for. It's great for inspiration :)
Lookin' at both your builds you might have/have access to some info that I'm looking for. The old aluminum round lights that were used on a lot of military trucks for different applications. They had 6 screws that held the lens assembly on, and mounted with 2 bolts at the very back. Some had a cats-eye on the top (red, clear, or amber) and a blackout below. Some just had a full red lens (externally the body was the same, internally and lens/"door" were different). I'm looking for the external depth of the body/housing, front to back, without the lens. Don't suppose you know or have one to measure? I've tried googling it but came up empty.
I just have too many projects going on...:)

Or any one else who might have this info??
 
#40 ·
Rushing to get another project done, cheap mil style front turn signals. currently waiting for paint to dry :)
Parts didn't show up 'till today, but the brunt of the modding is done (so far it's been one of the easier mods I've done). Gotta' have it done for the Veterans Day parade this Sat, but I should have pics up by tomorrow evening (if it works like I think it should).
 
#41 ·
Got the M-series cats-eye front turn signals done (this is what happens when the switches for the "concealed" switch-pod are backordered, I keep finding other mods to keep me busy while I'm waiting).
This was a fairly easy mod, quick, and a whole $20. Another lens mod (no wiring, etc). Just some old clear-lensed M-series light covers with blackout marker lights. I re-did the blackout lights to read "Jeep" and "USAF", and as running lights (only seen when the lights are on).
Seems my cheap camera only takes good pics when it's overcast outside, so some pics are a bit dark, and one looks like my JKU is white, but you get the idea. Two are with the running lights on, during the day. The turn signals are nice and bright. I'll try to get a few build pics up this weekend, maybe after the parade :).
 

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#43 ·
Part one of the cats eye turn signal build: The lens housing.
This should go pretty quick. Started with some old clear-lens cats eye take-off lenses from an M-series (eBay for $20).
First I removed the blackout lens assembly, but I kept everything in case I decide to add a blackout system later.
Note: the assembly (consisting of a seal, deep clear lens, blackout marker lens, and a steel retainer/support?) is held in with integral aluminum bent tabs that tend to break/crack when un-bending them. I was cutting them down any ways (to clear the stock JKU turn lens) so not an issue for this application.
Pic two shows the back of the housing with one already cut down.
Pic three is after paint, and shows my new "blackout" lens parts. I used a scrap piece of 2mm white acrylic (leftover from when I made a custom truss rod cover for one of my Rickenbacker basses) and cut a negative JEEP stencil-style logo out of black vinyl (and a USAF one for the other light). Applied the negative decal to the front of the acrylic. Also used some scrap purple transparent light gel (from my old bar band days) over the acrylic. The install order is: Seal, clear lens, gel, and acrylic w/decal. The gel "hides" the logo until the lights are on, and changes the color (I tried other color gel, just landed on purple with the yellow bulb). Everything fits within the cut-down mount (the new gel/acrylic combo is much thinner than the original blackout lens/retainer combo) and used black vinyl to cover the seams (black vinyl blocks all light).
Pic four just shows both lights on my light table, checking for any gaps.
 

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#44 ·
Part two of the cats eye turn signal build: The grill.
Not much to it, just drill six mounting holes around each turn signal housing (there's no turning back now!). I made a cardboard pattern and put it over the stock assembly housing from the back of the grill, to locate the top and bottom holes. Masked the front, and drilled the two pilot holes from the back. Finish drilled those two holes from the front, and mounted the light lens assembly. Then wrapped tape around the pilot drill, as a cheap centering bushing, and used the housing as a guide to drill the other four holes. Removed the lens assembly, finish drilled the four holes, then reinstalled the factory turn signal housing. Then just bolted the cats eye lens covers onto the grill (with a little RTV, 'cus the O-rings are ancient and hard, 'till I find new O-rings).
Down the road, I might remove the factory light and install the M-series light housing, but that depends on eBay :).
 

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#46 ·
Robotic eyes looking away from me...

Especially the bottum black w/blue photo.

Excellent attention to detail here.
Thanks. It's the details that turn my simple mods into a whole production :)
But if one little thing irks me, I won't be able to leave it alone. I made small CG (mil stencil "center of gravity") decals, re-did them three times 'till I liked them.
 
#48 ·
We each have our obsessive ways methods and means to achieve mission/tasks goals.

“I don’t give a shit how its done, just get it done” ✅

As was once alotted to me and mine.
Fortunately, my obsessiveness only applies to my creativity/ hobbies.
The mil/work has always been "the job is to get the job done" :thumb:
 
#49 ·
I finally got my concealed switch pod "mechanicals" done. I still have the wiring to do...which will suck...'cus I hate wiring! But this was the main fabricated part, and four of the switches were backordered and showed up today. I have plans for the three that don't have the actuators yet, but didn't want to get the etching done 'till I was absolutely sure what I'd use them for (if my idea(s) will work, and I might need some WF expert advice for that part). Unlike some of my other mods, this one wasn't cheap, mainly 'cus of the cost of the Carling switches and etched actuators. The rest of the fab didn't cost much, but those switches... again, 'cus I'm picky. If the switches look a little "out-of-position" in the pic, it's 'cus both end switches are ON-OFF-ON and the middle four are ON-ON (used as ON-OFF) so their resting OFF position is different from the end switches (that's just FYI :))
I'll post more build pics later, at least up to this point...
So without further ado................
 

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#50 ·
Part one of the concealed switch pod build: The pieces.
OK, this might get long just 'cus of the notes/details, and will probably be a bit scattered. Basically I needed a place for switches, but liked the idea of hiding them while still easy access, so this is what I came up with.
I already had the "VDP Roll Top Dash Console" insert that I got from Quadratec. The steel and paint was just garage findings. Aside from the VDP console, there are four main components to the pod. Two side supports, a bridge, and the switch panel. It's designed so that once the side supports and bridge are assembled in the console, they won't need to be removed again. All the switches are mounted in the panel, and it can easily be removed as an assembly, by removing the six screws.
Pic one is the parts template. This is a bit rough, and you will need to do some fitting, but it should get you close. Both side supports are different, due to the design/assembly of the console. They need to fit nice and tight inside the console. Each of the side supports have three holes drilled/tapped in them. The bridge also has three matching holes (I clamped the pieces together and drilled/tapped all the holes as a unit) but the center hole is not tapped. It's large enough for the bolt, but is only used as an assembly aid, then removed (I'll try to explain later).
Pic two shows the pieces cut out, drilled, tapped, and painted. The side supports and bridge are 11g steel (partially 'cus that's what I had, but I also wanted it thick enough for the threads on the bolts to hold) and the switch panel is 17g steel. Just some primer and flat black paint on them. The switch panel got an extra shot of bed-liner paint for texture (if you play with the spray distance, you can get a nice texture that looks like factory plastic. Just a nice trick).
Pic three shows the side supports and bridge assembled. But, ('cus I'm a moron) in the pic the assembly is backwards and should be rotated 360° (i.e. the rounded "front" edge of the side supports actually go towards the back of the console).
 

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#51 ·
Part two of the concealed switch pod build: Assembly.
The side support/bridge assembly cannot be installed as a unit! It must be assembled inside the console. It's a bit tricky, but once it's done, it never has to be removed.
I installed both side supports first, just putting them in position inside the console on each side, using some masking tape on the top edge and bottom to hold them in place for now. I also masked off the part above the line where the bridge will mount, just to protect the paint.
I then pre-installed the two outside screws on each end of the bridge (which is why I tapped those holes. Trying to get those screws in and lined up would have been even more of a PITA then it was without it). The screws should protrude just barely enough to help line up the holes with the side support (so, no real threads protruding).
Slide the bridge into the console and line up the center (untapped) hole with the center (tapped) hole on either end support. Get a screw through the bridge hole, into the support hole. Don't fully tighten yet. Do the same on the other end. Once in and snugged down, you can rotate the bridge as needed 'till the outside holes line up, then tighten the center screw all the way.
Now you should be able to screw in the outside screws on each side. It's kind of a pain, there's not a lot of room in there (which is why I came up with the center "assembly screw" idea, as it's much easier to get at). Once the outside screws are all tightened down to 13.5 ft/lbs exactly (just kidding) remove the center assembly screws. They will interfere with the end switches installation if not removed. Remove any tape/masking.
The front switch panel just drops in and is held on with six screws.
That's a lot of writing for what's accomplished...
The last pic just shows the textured paint, and the panel with only two switches installed.
 

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#52 ·
Part three of the concealed switch pad build: The dash.
I plan on wiring the switches as an assembly, so they plug into a harness, so I needed enough room for wire/plugs to go through. After removing the dash, I figured out my best option.
I wanted the hole to go up the side, but also along the bottom (but not interfere with the screw that holds the switch pod/dash on). I kept the side part low enough that, if I ever decide to remove the pod/console, the factory rubber trey insert will cover the hole completely (and it does, nicely :)). So, just some measuring, marking, two holes with a 1 1/4" hole saw, and remove the rest with the dremel.
Pic one shows the hole size/location in the dash.
Pic two shows the pod/console with matching hole cut in it.
Pic three shows the dash reinstalled and how much room there is for the wires/plug. I'll put some rubber over the metal structure to prevent wire chafing.
This was the easiest part of the build.
 

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#53 ·
Part four of the concealed switch pod build: A note about the switches.
The switches I decided on using are Carling Contura V sealed rockers (apparently I don't need to eat).
The outside ones (#1 and #6) are for lights that have low and high beam, so I used ON-OFF-ON switches (V6D1D66B) with dual dependent incandescent bulbs. Pretty simple SP DT switch, simple wiring (four terminals)
The middle four switches are a result of my nit-picky nature. I could have easily used simple two lamp ON-OFF switch, but no...not me. I couldn't stand the idea of the bottom lamp (the dash/dimmer circuit) staying on when the switch is actuated (illuminating the top lamp). I just couldn't have both lamps illuminated at the same time (nor can I ever make things easy on myself :)). So I used ON-ON (VDD2U66B) with dual independent lamps, as an ON-OFF switch (technically for two separate items). It's a DP DT switch that I'm using one side/pole to switch the item (like my fender mounted blackout light) and the other side/pole to switch the lamps in the switch (so "OFF" only lights the wording, with the dash circuit, and "ON" only lights the icon. Never both at the same time) by switching ground (using jumpers). Yep, overly complicated for no good reason but my own mental health (?) :).
Lastly, I got the actuators from Rocker Switch Pros https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/custom-rocker-switch-actuator/ They did the custom etching.
So this pic just shows the back of the switch panel before wiring. Who knows how long that'll take, but when I get it done I'll post all the info/pics here (I'm sure "everyone" is on pins and needles waiting :) but admittedly I drag my feet on wiring projects).
Obviously you can use other switches and make things much simpler.
 

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#54 ·
I am enjoying your build! I am waiting for the Scamblers to come out next year before I make my purchase. I either want to go white with black accents OR I want to do a military theme. Both my grandfathers served in WW2 (Army and Navy) and my brother is currently serving in the USAF. I would LOVE my build to be a dedication to them. Keep up the awesome work!
 
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#55 ·
Yep, more bored busy stuff. Made some CG (center of gravity) stencil type decals. Took a couple of attempts to get it where I liked it.
I don't have four (or even one) wheel scale, so I don't know where the actual CG is (most likely higher and forward). So I just centered it between the tires (that's the seam under the front door). Since I don't think I'll be loading my JKU onto a C-5 or C-141 any time soon, I think it'll be OK if it's not exact :)
The Kilroy decal has been on for a while, just never posted the pics (a shout out to WWII vets!)
Still waiting on some wiring stuff to finish the switch pod (hope to have the pod wired by X-mas, and the relay/fuse box done by the end of Jan).
At some point I'll have to start a thread asking some wiring/CANbus questions before I can finish...for blackout mode ;)
 

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#82 · (Edited)
Ok, that did it! I have been really enjoying your mods without comment.

I'm a retired USAF loadmaster, I think you missed guessed for that CG labels correct location. It's probably close to the A pillar just forward of the front door swing near your other artwork, but it depends on other interior mods. But with a solid front axle and transfer case that would be my guess. I wonder if you can find a weight diff on-line for the stock jeep, like 60/40 weight distribution. That could help you out without weighing the jeep axels, but come on your attention to detail will not allow me to not comment. :happyyes:

Wait a minute, I have a two door so your 4 door CG might be aft of the door hinge certainly farther back than mine. Doesn't really matter that much cause it looks cool, but if you have a 3 ton floor jack and a 4x4 and you can find a spot on the frame to put the 4x4 going across the width you can jack up the vehicle until is sort of balances on the beam that will tell you close enough, it's how it's done for some tracked vehicles except they roll over the beam until they teeter.
 
#56 ·
Part one of the switch pod wiring: The switch panel harness.
Wired up the switch pod harness finally. More work than it should have been, making the switch lights work like I wanted them to (see post #53 above :)). The end switches (#1 and #6) were easy, only four wires each. #2-#5 were a bit of a pain. Ten terminals each, and only one per switch didn't get a wire. Had to run three jumpers per switch, plus the rest of the wiring. Used flag terminals for the jumpers, and every wire/connector has heat-shrink on it. Oh well, that's the cost of being picky, I guess.
The harness plug connector was pretty easy, if you have a good weather pack crimper. The three wire plug is for the under dash feeds (12v switched, ground, and dash/dimmer feed). The eight wire plug obviously is for the switched circuits going to the fuse/relay box under the hood. I made the harness a bit longer than it needed to be, just to make it easier to install/remove the switch assembly into the mounted pod.
Tested it out and everything works as planned (amazingly!)
The switch schematic shows the jumpers used to control the switch lamps (switched through ground). The ON-ON is used as ON-OFF (switches #2-#5) and the ON-OFF-ON are for the high/low beam lights (#1 and #6)
I got the fuse/relay box this week. It'll hold up to 10 micro relays and fuses depending on the amps (I needed a minimum of eight relays just for the switch pod). I'll post more about it later, but it's going to take a while to wire/install it. Stupid micro relays are backordered, and I have to make a mount, busbars, and wire/install all the terminal ends. Did I mention that I hate wiring? :)
 

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#57 ·
Did I mention that I hate wiring?! :)
Finally got all the parts in and wired up the fuse/relay box. 10 fuses and 10 relays (two are "spares" as I only needed eight right now...room to grow ;)).
This pic is from the final mock-up before I paint the mount and get better mounting screws for the box. Hopefully it'll be warm enough tomorrow to paint, and get the mounting bolts into place under the hood (the holes are drilled and tapped, but need to go up from underneath and it looks like it'll be a PITA!) Still need to figure out where I'm gonna' run the wires through the firewall, but it's getting closer to completion. More pics as soon as it's mounted.
 

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#58 ·
Part one of the fuse/relay box: The box.
Got the fuse/relay box done! Yippee :). It's wired, mounted, harness run/hooked up and through the firewall (after testing it with the switch pod to make sure it was all wired correctly). Could almost pass for factory (maybe). Took a long time, lots of research and work, but I'm happy with it.
Before I go into details, just wanna' give props to @Rogue26 and his thread http://www.wranglerforum.com/f37/bussman-auxiliary-panel-1522825.html. Got some good info and ideas (like the mounting studs) from it. His build quality is probably better, and I don't think I saved any money/time/work. I thought hard about his relay box, but I just needed more relays (min 8) and frankly, I just like building my own stuff. So...
For the box, I went with the Littelfuse HWB60-AL. It's user configurable and has 60 connector slots (arranged in five rows of twelve), fairly small, has wire and lid seals, with no internal busing (which is why I chose the AL over the HWB60. It's 1/2" wider than the HWB60, and I wanted that extra width for the power busbar).
I configured it with ten 4-pin micro relays and fuses. In the 5x12 row ISO 280 size layout, the fuse takes up 1x2 space, 4-pin relay is 2x2, and 5-pin relay is 2x3. So if you used only 5-pin relays, you can fit eight relays and six fuses (but using four of the Micro3 fuses (1x3 space) will give you eight fused circuits in the same space). You can mix and match, just get a good set of weather pak crimpers! :)
So here's a few pics of it installed.
The third pic shows how I decided to layout everything (making it easy to remember which fuse goes to which relay).
The fourth pic just shows it with no fuses/relays. You can see four empty slots (rows one and three). Those are for the two spare circuits. They are partially wired, I'll add the switch/switched pins out when I have something else that needs power ;).
 

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