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Old 05-25-2018, 01:10 AM
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Just an quick FYI/update post.
When I decided to get hub centric rings for my (lug centric) wheels, I looked all over for aluminum ones in the right size (71.5mm - 83mm), but all I could find were the Gorilla plastic rings. Three of them have since cracked (multiple cracks. Three cracks in pic one) which seems to be a common issue with them. I only use them as gap fillers between my painted wheels and hubs, so it's mainly cosmetic, but it's not something that I can live with . No pieces have fallen out or are loose, but I'm sure they'll fall apart the next time I remove a wheel (and be impossible to reinstall).
After more searching, I finally found a Co. in Australia that makes/sells them (through eBay). Under $24 shipped (with the exchange rate). Their seller ID is dmautoparts2009 and they make other sizes. I got the 71.5mm - 83.1mm, and they fit great. I'm still gonna' paint them, but if you've been looking for aluminum hub centric rings for Jeep hubs, the quality is good, shipping was good, and the price is good. Again, just FYI.

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Old 06-05-2018, 03:37 PM
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Added some clear/amber LED running lights to the front tube fenders. They included a set of 2-wire amber lights, but I found a set of 3-wire (high/low) for $8/set in an attempt to make the lights function just like the front running/turn signals. But after trying different wiring combos, I haven't been able to make them work as running lights and turn signals. My research showed it wouldn't work, but I just figured maybe I was smarter than the internet. Not! It's also possible that I'm just a moron when it comes to wiring. Oh well, I have another idea that I'm looking into. 'Till then, these are just running lights...I prefer the clear lens any way.
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:27 PM
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Change to the change...
Found these 3-wire LEDs that work as running lights and turn signals. Easy hookup, nice and bright, blink in-time with the factory incandescent turn signals (not alternating, and no hyper flash). They came with bullet connectors, but I added a 3-pin weather proof plug instead.
These look to be the same as JCR Offroad and PS, but got them from Amazon (about the same price but free shipping).
I like the auxiliary turn signals allot. And since the rear flares have a 3/4" hole, that matches a hole in the body, I think I'm going to add the red version LED running/turn light also. I test fitted and test-wired an amber one, and everything worked like a charm (pic five shows an initial test with an amber LED and a 9v battery, just to get an idea on how it would look). Or would that be too much?
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:02 PM
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Got the red (rear) Maxxima 3-wire LEDs in, mounted, and wired. Like the fronts, these function just like the factory lights (running/turn/hazard. no alternating or hyper flash, not that there would be as aux lights). Couldn't get good pics in the dark, but there plenty bright (more then the factory incandescent bulbs) to see the running lights during the day. Figured with my mil-style front and rear lights, having aux lights might add some safety and fend off Johnny Law . Just in case...
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:35 AM   #95
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Wow love the build!! I have been thinking of doing a military build as well. I was thinking of how to do the tail lights and now I know!
Also check out Combat Crawlers on Facebook we are a Veteran Jeep Assn
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Old 09-05-2018, 05:29 AM
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Wow love the build!! I have been thinking of doing a military build as well. I was thinking of how to do the tail lights and now I know!
Also check out Combat Crawlers on Facebook we are a Veteran Jeep Assn
Thanks, I'll be interested to see how your lights turn out. If you need any info/measurements etc, let me know.
Combat Crawlers sounds cool, but I don't do social media. Never done facebook, twitter, instagram, etc. Don't even own a cell phone. But good luck with the group! And pass on a "thanks for your service" to the group.
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Old 09-09-2018, 12:26 PM   #97
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Installed a pair of Kargo Master Safari Congo Pro hinge steps on the rear doors. Decided to spray them Mojave Sand first, and also got black oxide 12.9 hardware to replace the included 10.9 "shiny" stuff. I masked off the top 1/4" of the step tread, just for durability reasons (powder coat tends to be tougher then paint).
Install was simple, and only took about 30 minutes. They're plenty strong enough to hold my weight (and I ain't light ). I really like them painted, and I'm glad I took the extra time and effort to do it! Didn't want them to "stand out" too much, and they don't. At least not as much as if I would have left them black. You can see in pic three that it almost blends in...er...um...kind of .
Yeah, I know I don't have a roof rack, but one is in my future plans...'Till then, I'll just tell people they're "stunt man handles" .
Probably a good idea on the paint. The factory finish on these steps is not the best. I left mine black and after two years of use they have somewhat faded. I think I'm going to reprint them.
Love the steps though, they really come in handy.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:21 PM
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Been collecting parts (lots of searching, and trying not to over pay) and doing tons of research for the next project. It's going slow, but I finally got to the point where I needed the AS-3900 in-hand, to see if I can make it work. Time for disassembly....one of my favorite parts .
Already painted the ball and tie-down, just so I could feel like I was making progress. That's sad.
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Old 11-14-2018, 02:55 PM
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Well that went quick. If you ever wanted to see a disassembled AS-3900/VRC SINCGARS antenna base, here it is (woohoo?) Looks easy enough so far...
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Old 12-01-2018, 03:17 PM
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I don't normally do in-progress posts, but since this is taking a long time (and still a ways from completion) and I don't have anything else to post ...
I made an adapter plate so I can run a regular CB antenna setup through the gutted SINCGARS base. Got some free scrap plate from a shooting buddy. Probably could have used 1/8", but in my never ending quest to over build everything (for no reason) I went with 3/16". Pretty simple piece, just copied the original spring base but changed (and threaded) the center hole to CB standard 3/8-24. The spring is a HD stainless barrel style, same "look" as the mil unit, same height but slightly narrower.
The spring threads into the adapter (which bolts to the AS-3900 base) and a standard HD CB antenna stud mount (I used a Firestik one) is screwed to the spring stud from the bottom.
Since the top half of the AS-3900 is some kind of plastic/composite material, I have to run a separate ground wire (easy enough). The lower half is aluminum, so I'm going to ground it and the antenna ground together.
Still need to paint everything and black oxide the spring, but that'll wait 'till I get more parts, everything assembled, and tested (in theory, it should function just like any CB antenna, but it's always possible that I'm missing something basic...so if you see something wrong, let me know )
So far, it looks correct.
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:25 AM
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This seems to happen a lot. While researching/searching/collecting parts etc, I end up starting another custom project (or three) to keep busy.
Got this today and couldn't wait to take it apart (after testing it). Disassembled and cleaned everything, replaced the 24v bulbs with 12v (went with an LED for the clear light, which I had leftover from another project). It's in primer now, hopefully it'll get paint tomorrow (weather permitting) then reassembled the next day. Also made a pigtail harness with a plug end already. I have a basic idea of where and how it's going to be mounted, but as usual, that may take some time (at least three of my projects are kind of/partially dependent on each other in some way for completion). So here's what it looks like disassembled (yay!)
I've more work on the CB antenna base, but it's almost ready for paint so I'll wait 'till then for more pics ('cus I know you can't wait).
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:12 PM
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Got the blackout dome light done (that went quick). Disassembled, cleaned, primed, painted, reassembled, harness made, and tested with the LED bulb behind the clear lens (man it's bright!! ). Had to add an internal ground, but that was easy enough. I know where and how it's getting mounted, just waiting on the part (story of my life).
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:48 PM
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SINGCARS CB antenna base continued: Done (with this part)
The base itself is finally completed (converting the AS-3900 SINGCARS base to a standard CB antenna base). Yes, it's more work/cost then any normal person would go through just for the look....guess that says more about me...
Pic one shows what I replaced the AS-3900 guts with. Pretty simple, just used a Firestik HD mount (attaches to the adapter plate/antenna spring), made a separate ground wire (that connects the HD mount to the bottom half of the base and the grounding strap), and a 10" piece of coax with a bulkhead end. Enlarged the bottom coax hole for the bulkhead connector.
Pic two shows the base all buttoned up (with O-rings and gaskets) and pretty much plug-in ready. Just attach the external grounding strap and plug in the coax cable.
Pic three shows it completed. Painted, assembled, decals, and black oxide finish on the spring. You can compare it to the unmodified AS-3900 pic above.
Got a 7 foot Firestix fiberglass antenna in black, mil tie down, and ball end waiting for install. It won't look 100% like the "real thing", but it'll look "correct" (?)
Should start the vehicle mount soon (at least part of it), but it's been a bit cold out and snowing this week, and I have an aversion to cold weather (partly 'cus of my advanced age, and partly 'cus I grew up in Buffalo and just hate the cold) Plus I was busy installing the overhead molle rack, which took longer then it should have 'cus I tossed the sheet metal screws and installed rivnuts (and added rivnuts to the rear mount). Using it to mount the dome light and CB, 'cus...multiple projects overlap...
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:06 AM
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Installed a Molle Platform Solutions overhead rack, and the HMMWV dome light, basically together...but separately? The MPS rack is a nice design, strong, good access to the freedom top latches, and pretty easy to install. I did modify it for the dome light, but I'll show that in the next dome light post.
The only thing I wasn't thrilled about with the rack was the mounting hardware (three sheet metal screws for the front, and two zip ties for the back). It probably would have been fine, and I haven't heard of any issues, but you know me and overbuilding things...
I had some extra stainless M-8 screws and rivnuts from another project, so I used three for the front instead of the screws. Used two more for the rear after drilling holes in the rack. Pretty simple, but worth the extra work IMHO. It's definitely solid!
I also notched the windshield trim for the front rack mount about 1/8". Didn't seem necessary, but I'm sure it would have bugged me if I didn't.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:16 AM
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HMMWV dome light install: Done
Pic one shows the parts. One each refurbished HMMWV blackout dome light assembly, one each modified MPS overhead molle rack, one each trim/sandwich mounting plate, and one each hardware pack (bolts/nuts/washers).
I cut a hole in the MPS rack after deciding on the best location for the light (putting the light 13" forward of the factory dome light). I could have just done a "surface mount" style install, it definitely would have been quicker and easier!! But I wouldn't have been happy with it. It wouldn't have looked as "finished" IMHO, plus it would be 1" lower (the two-piece light housing has a base and a cover that are each 1" thick).
Pic two shows it mounted (after painting the trim/sandwich plate) in the rack. The hole is cut to clear the cover part, but not the base part (but since the rack already had the molle holes cut out, the light hole is oddly shaped). The light drops in from the top, and the trim piece bolts on from the bottom up through the rack and to the light base (it's basically sandwiching the rack between the light base and the trim). The trim/sandwich plate is 16g steel ('cus that's what I had) and also cleans up the install hole appearance IMHO.
Pic three shows the wiring harness from the sound bar. I just tapped into the factory dome light feed. There's three wires for the factory dome light: black-ground, white w/black-power (for the push button operation), and white-dimmer switch (and door switch?). I used the ground and push button power feed 'cus the HMMWV light has it's own switch, plus it has two modes (white and blackout). Had to use RTV to seal it 'cus the plastic is too thick there for a grommet (it's where both halves of the sound bar are assembled together).
Pics four and five show a comparison between the factory lights (dome and mirror) and the HMMWV dome (white light mode. obviously the blue "blackout mode" isn't very bright ). Big difference!! Worth the extra time/work/money? Sure. Kept me busy, better lighting, blackout light, and I wanted the rack for a CB mount anyways.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:34 PM   #106
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Great build, great ideas, great thread! I'm buying a low mileage '16 MS JK from a buddy and really like that HMMWV dome light install... might have to borrow that one.

Did one hitch as a sim tech in the '80's on C-130's and C-141's. Had some good experiences and made some lifelong friends, but decided to go back to civilian life. Ironically, my son is serving now out of Offutt and has a 1970 Plymouth Valiant Duster (only year it had the full name), so I really liked that Duster decal.
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:59 PM
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Great build, great ideas, great thread! I'm buying a low mileage '16 MS JK from a buddy and really like that HMMWV dome light install... might have to borrow that one.

Did one hitch as a sim tech in the '80's on C-130's and C-141's. Had some good experiences and made some lifelong friends, but decided to go back to civilian life. Ironically, my son is serving now out of Offutt and has a 1970 Plymouth Valiant Duster (only year it had the full name), so I really liked that Duster decal.
Thanks! If you don't want/need the blackout dome light (which I did want ) there are other military dome lights that might be easier.
I'm a fan of all the old Mopar cars/logos. I had a banana yellow '70 Super Bee a long time ago, so when I ordered my '99 Dakota R/T in yellow, I made the Super Dak logo. Carried the idea over when I ordered my Neon SRT-4, modifying the old Demon logo to say Neon. Now the Duster for the JKU. I also made a Road Hog logo (based on the Bee logo, but it's a hog) for a Harley Davidson, but I ended up buying the Jeep instead of a bike.
And thanks to you and your son for your service.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:06 PM
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Just two more pics showing the MPS overhead molle rack and HMMWV dome light installed (since I had the freedom top off today). You can see in pic one how much of the dome light is above the rack (1"), which is why I mounted it the way I did (through mount instead of surface mount.) Just FYI.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:21 PM   #109
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Yup, looks good. Was it a random vendor on ebay or is there one you can recommend?

Mopar guy here, too. 73 Charger, 67 Fastback Barracuda and my '69 RoadRunner (meep meep). Jeeps and Scouts in between. Settled on Jeeps for now. I actually have a pair of ScatPack cufflinks from the 70's my uncle gave me as a little kid. Had a tie clip, too but I think thats gone.
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Old 01-07-2019, 08:38 PM
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Yup, looks good. Was it a random vendor on ebay or is there one you can recommend?

Mopar guy here, too. 73 Charger, 67 Fastback Barracuda and my '69 RoadRunner (meep meep). Jeeps and Scouts in between. Settled on Jeeps for now. I actually have a pair of ScatPack cufflinks from the 70's my uncle gave me as a little kid. Had a tie clip, too but I think thats gone.
The decal or the light? I make most of my decals, but got the Duster a couple of years ago on eBay. Can't remember who, but I'd guess any restoration catalog business (Year One, Phoenix Graphix, etc) is a good source.
The light was also eBay. Plenty on there now, but the prices are all over the place (and so are the shipping costs)! I took my time and did a lot of searching/shopping, ended up paying $45 shipped for two lights. The lights themselves are HD! The housing is 1/4" aluminum, everything is sealed with O-rings/gaskets, and the bulbs have rubber "shock proof" mounts.
I still have the '99 R/T and the '04 SRT-4, but some of the past included a '69 Dart GT, the '70 Super Bee, and a '73 Charger SE. And an '84 Rampage beater that I converted to a Turbo 2 .
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:40 PM
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Yup, looks good. Was it a random vendor on ebay or is there one you can recommend?
Just some FYI. The seller I got the dome lights from doesn't have any more listed (listed by other sellers, but higher priced).
Like most military lights, they are for a 24v system, but converting to 12v is just swapping bulbs. 12v equivalent is a 67 for the blackout bulb, and an 1156 for the white light. I used this LED 1156-size bulb for the white light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6WAF4PW4&psc=1. Had one leftover from a different project, but it's the right size, and bright (1400 lumens)!
It's single wire (Mil lights ground through case/mount) but I added a ground wire (wired it to the factory dome light ground) to the case, and an internal ground from the same point to the bulb ground. Simple, just to be safe. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:29 PM
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I was looking for a way to open the rear doors further (like adjustable straps), and stumbled onto these Molle Platform Solutions "rear door strap extension brackets". This is one of those mods that's cheap, simple, practical, and quick, but makes a nice difference. $25 shipped (priority mail) and about 10 minutes of time, and I'm super happy with the results!
Pic one just shows the brackets. 3/16" steel, powder coated. Unbolt the factory brackets, and bolt these in.
Pic two shows the rear door fully opened with the factory bracket. It's being pushed/held open (wedged my dogs toy in there), so it's maxed open.
Pic three shows it opened with the MPS bracket. It actually opens a little further, but the dog toy wasn't big enough to wedge in there now that it opens further, so it kept closing a little (slight incline on my driveway).
The pics are pretty bad (sorry). I did the install right before sunset, and it put shadows from my tree on the Jeep (and the shadows moved while I installed both sides). But you get the idea.
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Old 01-17-2019, 04:21 PM
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The quick and the easy (and fairly inexpensive) "mod". Nothing real exciting, more of a detail then a mod. Got a JK/JKU Data Plate decal (one of the few decals that I didn't make myself...'cus my plotter just cuts, doesn't print) from Pixel Decals. Good product, slow shipping (but they explain that multiple times and it's not a big deal).
Most pics I've seen show it on the inside of the tailgate (where the JL has the real one?) I decided on putting it on the front DS door frame. Just felt it fit better and looked correct. Most people will never see it, but I think those that do will assume it's factory (or not notice/care at all ). Oh well, like I said, it's just a detail.
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:48 PM
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Well, I was in the back of my JKU prepping for camping, and noticed there's no way to open the rear gate from the inside (and it's kind of a pain crawling out the side doors, especially with my front seats back all the way and some "gangsta' lean" going on). Did some searching, and found some different solutions, and made this inside rear gate door handle today. Cheap, but took some time (mainly cutting steal with my dremel tool). Got the idea from @Fellow in The North (just giving props ) but modded it a bit.
Pic one shows the pieces for the interior handle. The handle itself is a recliner release handle that I got from Scamazon (under $10 shipped, including the cable. Everything else I used were garage finds). Below the handle is a simple mounting bracket that I bent up. Basically the same style as the bracket on Autometer gauges. Next is the steel adapter plate, to mount the handle assembly to the factory "tailgate grille" vent. I used 16g steel 'cus that's what I had, but it probably could be thinner. Last is the factory tailgate grille, modified for the handle/adapter.
Pic two shows the back of the handle assembly. The 16g mounting bracket attaches to the back of the handle with two screws (the handle has four mounting holes, two on the back and two on the side) and sandwiches the adapter plate between the bracket and the handle lip (huh?) I added two screws through the side holes, just in case the bracket "legs" wanted to spread, but that's probable overkill 'cus it's solid! The adapter plate/handle/bracket attaches to the tailgate grille with small screws (I was going to use rivets, but then found these instead). The whole assembly mounts in the gate just like the stock tailgate grill.
Pic three shows the cable bracket that I "whipped up". Again, 16g steel, that attaches inside to the bolts for the exterior tailgate handle. Had to be bent to clear the handle indent for the gate.
Pic four shows the cable bracket attached to the door handle bolts (removed from the door to make test fitting everything easier, and for pics). I used a cable ferrule to attach the cable to the door button rod. The cable also fits in the grove of the rod clip, and it has a swaged end the locks into the clip. The cable sleeve just clips into the notch in the bracket.
Pic five shows it installed, painted, textured, and labeled. Handle/mount is solid, and it works great.
Note: This operates the gate latch, but it doesn't unlock the latch if the doors are locked. Just FYI.
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Old 03-24-2019, 02:50 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Dak View Post
Part two of the tail light build: The military blackout tail light lens.
The mockup (with cardboard and tape adapter plate) shows the blackout lens as it came, with two windows below the brake light. I didn't want/need the blackout part, and I wanted to use the stock backup lamp, sooo...
I thought the windows were glass, and I could just pop them out or break them. Nope, Lexan (the kind that melts when cutting, gumming up cut-off wheels). Ended up drilling holes all around the perimeter to help with the cutting.
Next pic shows the structure in the back of the lens housing. With lots of work, cut-off wheels and sanding drums (and the dremel getting to hot to hold, and repeated stops to let it cool) I removed all the structure.
Then I fiberglassed the window openings, and the whole back side. I clamped a piece of glass to the front of the housing, to support the fiberglass as I laid it and 'till it cured, and give a smooth finish.
I am reading your tail light mod posts again as I am going to build my own. I am looking at the backup light portion and had a thought...
I see all the work you did you fit that clear lens...
How much actual surface area is there for the back up light to shine thru compared to if I just cut out the black-out lenses?
I was thinking of cutting a hole in the red portion of the lens for the light to shine thru to the military lens and possible keeping the OEM back-up lens in place so it would shine thru the black-out lens area once removed.
I would black out any visible OEM lens w/ bedliner paint.

I am going to use these as my real back-up light system.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadrate...ep-wrangler-jk
Not cheap, but they should throw a lot of light and then the military lens can stay intact. Also the kit's harness plugs directly into the OEM harness like a trailer light harness.

I have the lenses on their way and got a set of OEM tail lights complete w/ harness and filler plate for cheap from a local Jeeper.
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Bestop Trek Top Nx, Trek Armor Blk/OD Seat covers w/ Bartact & Army surplus bags
Rubicon Shocks w/ 19/60 springs, 2.5" Teraflex BB lift w/ Superlift frt & rr adj track bars & Rancho CA bracket, NR 4x4 9/16" bolt kit
315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs on Willys rims w/ 1.5" wheel spacers & 4.56 Yukon gears,Teraflex BRK frt & rr
Smittybilt XRC Side Armor, Drake locking hood latches
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:20 PM   #116
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Quote:
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Well, I was in the back of my JKU prepping for camping, and noticed there's no way to open the rear gate from the inside (and it's kind of a pain crawling out the side doors, especially with my front seats back all the way and some "gangsta' lean" going on). Did some searching, and found some different solutions, and made this inside rear gate door handle today. Cheap, but took some time (mainly cutting steal with my dremel tool). Got the idea from @Fellow in The North

Nice bracket mount for the cable on the inside. I'm not sure if you followed the rest of the thread you got your idea from, but I did a similar set up but made a complete replacement plate for the vent using dense plastic. I also have a lock pull to unlock the door. For the cable to latch rod I just used a zip tie to pair it to the bar instead of the metal piece you used to clamp it in place.
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2015 Wrangler Unlimited (Tank)
Bestop Trek Top Nx, Trek Armor Blk/OD Seat covers w/ Bartact & Army surplus bags
Rubicon Shocks w/ 19/60 springs, 2.5" Teraflex BB lift w/ Superlift frt & rr adj track bars & Rancho CA bracket, NR 4x4 9/16" bolt kit
315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs on Willys rims w/ 1.5" wheel spacers & 4.56 Yukon gears,Teraflex BRK frt & rr
Smittybilt XRC Side Armor, Drake locking hood latches
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandofamily View Post
I am reading your tail light mod posts again as I am going to build my own. I am looking at the backup light portion and had a thought...
I see all the work you did you fit that clear lens...
How much actual surface area is there for the back up light to shine thru compared to if I just cut out the black-out lenses?
I was thinking of cutting a hole in the red portion of the lens for the light to shine thru to the military lens and possible keeping the OEM back-up lens in place so it would shine thru the black-out lens area once removed.
I would black out any visible OEM lens w/ bedliner paint.
If I'm reading this right, and understanding it (which I might not be 'cus I just got off a long night shift) you plan on attaching the HMMWV lens directly to the stock plastic lens, using bed liner paint to cover the exposed factory lens? I'm pretty tired, but I don't see why that wouldn't work.


I was set on using the round backup lens for aesthetics (it just "looks" like a combo of old Jeep and military IMHO, and I didn't want "fake" blackout lights), but while looks are important I still wanted it to be functional as a backup light. With the LED replacement backup bulbs installed, it's plenty bright enough, but I made sure the stock bulb location is centered directly behind the 2" round clear lens. I also made the hitch mounted auxiliary backup light (from post 64) that uses the same LED bulb, so I have three small backup lights, and honestly, it's more than enough light for my needs (but I'm slowly working on a roof-rack mounted swing out boom/work light that can be used as another backup light if I need to )
I'm super anal about my work and the details, and what I want will be exactly how I want it, but there's more then one way to skin a cat, as they say . Fortunately, take-off tail lights are cheap, so you can try different ideas. And since it's plug-n-play, switching to different ideas (or back to stock) is super easy.
Remember that covering the stock lens (or replacing it like I did) will eliminate the rear reflectors. I'm no legal expert, but I'm pretty sure reflectors are required? I used the 3" military ones (post 62). Just something to consider.
Sorry for rambling! Feel free to PM me if none of my blathering makes sense.
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:07 PM   #118
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Its always the "little" details that really stand out! Great looking rig and build, love it dude. Keep it up.
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:57 PM
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Been a while, been working way too much so I haven't made enough real progress on the multiple intertwined custom projects (and the one I did finish, well, I just wasn't happy with it and I'm gonna' redo/redesign it. Which sucks, 'cus it's kind of hard to un-bend and un-cut steel plate.)
But, I did finally get some new/better tires. I tried convincing myself that I was OK with the stock Goodyear Wrangler SR-As (and there's nothing wrong with them as a tire, just not for a Jeep ), but after having to use 4-wheel drive to get out of some loose sand in an AZ wash, I decided I should get something a little more aggressive. Went with the Toyo Open Country AT II 285-70-R17 (a little taller, a little wider). Chose the P over LT model mainly for weight reasons, and the Jeep still sees mostly on-road daily use. Tires are one of those mods that, unless you make a big size/style change, doesn't make a vehicle look much different (especially considering the cost!) but here's some "after" pics.
FWIW I haven't noticed any performance loss (handling, braking, acceleration) which I was expecting a little, even with a slight change in size/weight. So I'm happy.
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:50 PM
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Well it's not quite done yet, but the test fitting and function check is complete, so finish and paint is a go .
When I got the MPS overhead front molle panel, the plan was to use it to mount the mil blackout dome light and a CB radio. The panel has cut-outs to access the freedom top "L-shaped locks", but when I put the CB in the location that I liked best, it blocked the front lock cut-out. So in my quest to needlessly over engineer and over complicate everything, I made this latched and hinged swing down (and out of the way) chassis mount for the CB. It uses two rotary draw latches (the same kind as the covers on my SKB rack cases for my bass guitar amps) so I can swing it down without any tools. Takes about five seconds to swing it down or to re-latch it, and it's solid/secure when it's latched. Not a wiggle or rattle, and getting at the freedom panel "lock" is easy with the CB down.
Now I get to take it all apart again, do some finish work, and paint it before the final install. More pics when it's finished...
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