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Old 07-06-2018, 12:40 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 217
Aftermarket Power Distribution Help

Just wanted to run this by you guys to get a second pair of eyes looking at it before I order all my parts. I'm wanting to plan a clean install of my power runs rather than just having a billion wires everywhere that I'd have to troubleshoot in the event something failed. I'm going to be powering three things from the vehicles 12 volt system.

1.) Alpine PDX-V9 Amplifier
2.) Apollointech Switch Relay Controller (100 Amp Max)
3.) Secondary Fuse Box (50 Amp Max)

My original design called for a separate power connection from each of these three devices through a fuse or breaker to the battery. Basically bolting three Bussmann waterproof breakers of the appropriate size for each load to the firewall and then running a separate 4 or 6 gauge wire for each of these breakers back to the battery. This seems like it's getting pretty cluttered on the battery's binding post so I'm looking for a way to clean it up. Here's what I've come up with.

From the battery run a 1/0 gauge wire to the input side of a JL Audio XD-FDBU-4 distribution block. This block has a 1/0 gauge input, room for 4 MAXI automotive fuses, and four 4 to 8 gauge outputs. Per the vendor it's rated for marine grade applications.

I'll move my 4 gauge positive that's run from the battery to my Alpine amp to the first output on the JL distribution block and remove it's inline fuse. I will make sure the MAXI fuse in the JL block for that run matches the one that came installed with the amp wiring kit (100 amp I believe).

Remove the inline breaker from the Apollointech and connect it to the second output of the JL distribution block. Again making sure the MAXI fuse matches the inline fuse I removed. (100 amp)

Lastly run a 6 gauge wire from the third output on the JL block to the back of the Jeep and connect it to the secondary fuse box I've built for back there. That circuit will never draw more than a MAX of 50 amps so I'll put a 50 amp fuse in the JL block for that.

That covers the positive feeds. For the negative feeds I plan to use a JL Audio XD-PDBU-3X. I'll run a 1/0 gauge wire from the negative post on the battery to the output side of this block.

I'll run a 4 gauge negative wire from the ground of my Alpine amp to the first input on the JL audio ground block.

I'll move the 4 gauge negative wire from my relay controller off the battery and onto the second input on the JL block.

Lastly I'll run a 6 gauge negative bus from the Jeeps rear aux fuse box back to the last input on the JL ground block.

This SHOULD give me a single positive and a single negative connection from the aftermarket electrical systems to the battery as well as give me a central fuse box for all of the vehicles main power runs.

Does this sound good and workable? Any recommendations?

jawest12 likes this.
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Old 07-06-2018, 01:14 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 768
My opinion is, consider having your AMP ground wire as short as possible. IE, ground wire less than 24". Directly to chassis. To help with potential difference, ground your chassis to frame. And upgrade battery ground, engine ground, etc. This should give the least chance for introducing unwanted noise. Less wires run. But ensures all grounds are at the same potential difference.

Of course, I know this opinion can controversial. I know some prefer going straight to battery. My opinion is just based on my own anecdotal experience. A few installs had way too much noise running amp ground to the battery. Of which were resolved with the above method.

Either way, I like your plan for positive power distribution. I will be stealing it, and cleaning up my engine bay wiring a tad bit better.
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