This is the first mod I'm attempting that involves electricity, and I'm not an electrician or audio/radio tech. I'm going to dump the whole thing here because I seem to get conflicting answers to certain questions as I hop around this site and the rest of the internet.
Right now I won't add photos. If anyone wants a photo to better understand what I'm describing, please let me know.
What I'm looking for is confirmation, correction or suggestions to improve this plan BEFORE I start putting the pieces together. Thanks.
Here is the plan and a bit of background:
Pre-conditions for this project:
Equipment and accessories choices:
- Cannot drill holes anywhere on or in the vehicle. This is my wife's DD, and while she understands why a CB would be useful, she doesn't like people to make permanent holes in "her" Jeep.
- CB and accessories (except power lines and antenna cable/mount, which have to be routed through various holes in the body) must be removable if we are not using them (daily driver situation)
- CB, mike and mike cord cannot block vision through the windshield
- No external speaker Ė must be able to hear the internal speaker (which is pretty good), or have the sound signal go through the 130 radio and audio speakers via the Aux input
- Cannot disassemble the dash board, or tie power into the ignition system/cigarette lighter. Wife doesn't trust that I can get it back together correctly (yet).
Radio (Vintage 90ís) with 2 pin allen-type power plug and lead which is about 4 inches long. The allen-type lead is similar but not identical to a 2-pin Molex plug.
2 pin allen-type power power lead
cable with 2 amp inline fuse holder (needed to connect the radio so it can be removed from the vehicle. Matches the plug type that came on the radio. Total length is about 18 inches.
12 gauge red/black audio-vehicle wire
(twisted copper) to bring power from the engine compartment through the firewall. Iíll put ring terminals on the end and connect the radio straight to the battery. I also plan to solder a 2-amp inline fuse holder on the ground side, closer to the battery than the radio. The hot-side fuse is in the power lead. Would it make sense to solder in another fuse on the hot line (red), just closer to the battery?
90-degree PL259 male to SO239 female adapter
Ė allows the antenna cable to be 90-degrees off from the radioís SO239 antenna plug, so the coax cable can run straight back toward the firewall. Keeps the antenna cable out of the passenger side foot well.
Quadratec JK-CBM11 Quick Disconnect CB Radio Mount
Ė made for the Uniden Pro 510XL radio which matches the dimensions of the Midland 77-106 and is smaller than the similar but larger Quadratec Quick Disconnect mount for full-size CBs. This mount is why I want to redirect the antenna 90 degrees as it comes out the back of the radio. The CB will be nearly vertical, and I didnít want the antenna cable to come straight out the back of the radio heading toward the floor. Love this Quick Disconnect mount! Solid, easy to install, easy to remove the radio when not in use. Will ditch the wing nuts it came with and use Nylock nuts instead for a cleaner installation look.
Mopar passenger grab bar microphone mount
for Cobra 75WXST radio. Turns out, the microphone button for the Cobra 75W is the same type used on my vintage Midland CBís microphone. Totally interchangeable, and I now have a spare.
Firestik Fire Ring
coax antenna cable with FME/PL259 adapter Ė this is the weak link in this plan. Reviews arenít consistently positive; but, I wanted to first try the smaller FME end to get it from the spare tire carrier through the tailgate before giving up and going with standard PL259 plugs at both ends.
Teraflex Spare Tire Antenna Mount
(stainless steel version) Ė wonít need to scrape off powder coating.
Correct Firestik K-stud
for the Fire Ring. Had to buy a stainless steel bolt ľ inch longer than the one it came with to make it work with this thicker spare tire mount and the lock washers that came with the stud.
Firestik Antenna Quick Disconnect
(have to be able to remove the antenna to park the Jeep in our garage)
Firestik 4-foot tunable tip antenna
. Could have gone with a shorter antenna, but want to get up a foot or two above the roofline.
6 or 8 gauge twisted copper wire (black case) and two ring terminals Ė appropriate length to function as a ground(ing) wire
. Will attach one end to the Antenna Mountís bolt holding the mount to the tire carrier, the other to an appropriate screw in the vehicle suitable to function as a ground to the chassis. Best location Iíve found so far is in the back, passenger side, under the Torx bolt that holds down the forward most cargo tie down. Donít need to scrape paint if the ring terminal is under the tie down. Run this in parallel with the antenna cable through the tailgate, into the cargo area.
SWR meter with patch/testing cable
Multi-meter (check continuity and for potential shorts)
Resin core solder
Heat gun (for shrink tubing)
Anything missing? Questionable (besides the Fire Ring)?