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Old 08-28-2012, 12:03 AM
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Installed Polk DB6501 and DB651

All I can say is that I'm very disappointed in how this turned out. I started by just adding a Kicker Comp VR 8" DVC 2ohm sub to the stock enclosure (I have the Infinity from the factory) powered by a RF Punch 300x1 and this sounded pretty good with the stock sound bar and dash speakers. Then I installed the Polk DB651 Coaxial set in the sound bar and there was a pretty big difference. Everything was bright and clear. So I figured what the hell, lets do the dash with the DB6501 components. Big mistake IMO.

At first I installed them without the crossover by hooking the dash speakers up to the stock wiring and the tweeters up the same way, stock wiring. It sounded really good but the highs were overpowering the rest of the system. SO I tried hooking them up just crossing over the tweeters and it killed them too much. So tonight I went all out and used the dash speaker wires for the inputs on the crossovers and then ran the wires to the tweeter and dash woofers. Sounds like crap. Very muddy and almost no bass. The sound bar is much louder now too so I guess it could be caused from the amp pushing more power to these since I think the stockers are 2 ohm and the Polks are 4 ohm. The sub sounds like crap too so I'm going to try setting it up in it's own box to see if that helps.

I don't want to change the stock HU (130) because I don't want to entice theft. I guess my next option is going to be installing the RF Punch 300x4 for the dash and soundbar using the infinity wiring to send signal to the amp like I did for the sub. I don't know if anyone else had had this problem but I would warn against this set up. That opinion could change when I hook up the second amp but I would stop at the sub and soundbar if I were doing it all again. But now that I have cut out the factory tweets I'm stuck with it.

If anyone has any ideas please feel free to make suggestions. I'll probably unhook the crossovers and I'm thinking about redoing the sub setup to go with something that can handle a little more power in a custom box. Probably a 10" or two that I can run down to 1 ohm so likely 2 4ohm DVC's.

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Old 08-28-2012, 07:57 AM   #2
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I don't think the speakers are your problem necessarily. I think the problem is how you wired everything up. The Polks are 4 ohm speakers, while the upgraded Infinity system is set up for 2 ohm. You are only getting half the power you should be getting. That's one problem.

How did you install the front woofers in the speaker pod? I'm assuming you used an adapter bracket. Another problem is that by doing this, you'll warp the plastic and you will not get a tight seal. This leads to air rushing out and not delivering bass. This is an easy fix though. Buy some speaker baffles (I used the XTC brand). This will provide a tight seal between the adapter bracket and the pod. I also recommend using the baffles in the soundbar as well.

While I did not start out with the upgraded Infinity system, check out my install for more info that may be useful.

IMO, the real problem is the stock Infinity amp. I can't speak to the Infinity system, but others will be able to chime in. I would install a new amp and completely avoid the stock amp. Do a search too...there are tons of threads on this subject.

The stock HU also is limiting the soundbar speakers, but I kept it and do not have plans to replace it anytime soon.

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Old 08-28-2012, 05:16 PM   #3
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Are you positive you have all polarities correct? If the system sounds muddy and has poor bass response, it's often because a positive and negative got switched somewhere, leaving your speakers out of phase. This could also make your sub sound worse.

As igf101 said, your Infinity system was all 2ohm speakers, while your new polks are 4ohm. This means that they do not pull as much power from the factory amp as the original speakers did. This could be part of your problem, but the Polks are also more sensitive than the factory ones, so they should still be almost as loud. I would still be leaning toward your wiring.

So, you removed the factory speaker pods and tweeters, replaced everything with the polks, and installed the crossovers. You should have it wired like this:

Front Left speaker's Crossover
In (+) - grey/purple (was feeding factory woofer)
In (-) - grey/yellow (was feeding factory woofer)
Woofer (+) - to the Polk's woofer +
Woofer (-) - to the Polk's woofer -
Tweet (+) - to the Polk's tweeter +
Tweet (-) - to the Polk's tweeter -

Front Right speaker's crossover
In (+) - dark green/purple (was feeding factory woofer)
In (-) - dark green/yellow (was feeding factory woofer)
Woofer (+) - to the Polk's woofer +
Woofer (-) - to the Polk's woofer -
Tweet (+) - to the Polk's tweeter +
Tweet (-) - to the Polk's tweeter -

You shouldn't be using any factory wiring except as mentioned above to feed the crossovers. Disregard the wires that ran to the factory tweeters. Use all new speaker wires to run from the crossover to the woofer and from the crossover to the tweeter. If you have it this way already, make sure you connected the crossover inputs to the correct colors that I listed above. If any of these are switched, it will result in an out of phase condition.

The only problem that you may run into would be that running the whole component system off the factory woofer's signal could cut the high frequencies out - I am not sure if the factory amp has a low-pass filter built into the amp or not.

Honestly, I sell and install Polk speakers all the time, and they always sound great - though we do carry the DXi series, not the DB. Either way, you shouldn't be getting a worse sound from the Polks as opposed to the factory ones...
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:22 PM
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I was shocked. I have them wired exactly as you listed the setup and knew to take time to avoid reversing polarity. I think it's the load, and ultimately the lack of tun ability for the HU and infinity amp. I'm going to pick up the RF punch 300x4 now and install it tonight. If that doesn't fix it then I say to hell with it and the infinity is coming out, new HU is going in and I'm starting from scratch.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:50 PM
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Ok. I researched all night last night. Do I replace the HU (130) or figure this damn thing out. ell I'm a solver by nature and will not rest until it's done. So I wrote down all the things I thought would have happened by replacing everything but the stock HU. Then I made my list of what actually happened. Here's the list for those who may find it helpful:

What I thought would have happened:
1. I would get more volume than stock
2. Everything would sound as bright as my old system in my Mustang, or close at a minimum.
3. More control over frequency
4. The Infinity Amp would be a thing of history and I would get the signals I needed to appreciate the system

What actually happened:
1. It sounded like cardboard shit
2. See above
3. The Sub sounded much worse than before
4. It was WAY to bright in the front
5. Dash speakers sound like cardboard
6. This was a long list so I'll leave it there

How did I fix it - First I put on the crossovers that came with the DB6501 component set. It sounded worse. Very muffled and very little high tones. I took a step back and started to think about the countless threads I have read. Then I wondered "if the Amp is really crossed over internally then I don't need crossovers" but this put me back where I was to start with. I remembered seeing a little green capacitor on the stock tweeters so I grabbed one and took it apart. I found the writing 3.3MFD and Googled like crazy. What I found was that the stock suckstem with the Infinicrap amp was at 2 ohms. I knew that but then I found that the capacitor was the crossover. Therefore, I don't believe the Infinity amp is crossed over at all. At 2 ohms the tweeter signal would have been chopped below about 6K to 8K Hz. So I did more research and knowing my new Polk's were 4 ohm I went and got some new 4.7 mf (milifarad) capacitors. I would have liked to get 10mf but Radio Shack didn't have any. So my tweeters are now crossed at around 8K Hz. MUCH BETTER!!!. I also resealed the sub in the stock enclosure because I noticed some air coming from the bottom. After a little tweaking on the new Punch 300x4 amp I found the sweet spot. I can turn this thing up to about 30 and it's all good and loud!!! But not just loud; the sound is just as clean as it is at low volumes.

I changed my mind and will likely replace the stock HU in a few months but this set up will certainly get my by. All I needed was $3 worth of capacitors and it made all the difference.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:39 PM   #6
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How did this turn out?
And were those the DB651 or DB651s loaded in your soundbar? I would like to load the DB651's (non-slim) in both the soundbar and the dash, but I'm not sure if they would fit (stock grills or Polk grills) and how much cutting would be required.

Do you have pics of the soundbar?

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
How did this turn out?
And were those the DB651 or DB651s loaded in your soundbar? I would like to load the DB651's (non-slim) in both the soundbar and the dash, but I'm not sure if they would fit (stock grills or Polk grills) and how much cutting would be required.

Do you have pics of the soundbar?

Thanks
I'm still not 100% happy with it but it is much better than stock. I really think I need to swap the HU, upgrade to either the Alpine SWR-823 which will handle the 300 watts my RF 300x1 makes at 1 ohm or build a box and get a 10", and then just tune it.

I put the Polk DB651 in the soundbar because they are the coaxial and then installed the Polk DB6501 components in the dash and tweeter pods. My girlfriend has a 2012 Altitude with the 730N and I compared them the other night. Her's actually sounds better IMO but I have far more volume out of mine. I am convinced it is because the stock 130N is awful. My advice would be to plan out your entire system and get everything you need to do it at once. I pieced this thing together and wish I would have waited. When I get the new HU I'm going to tear it all apart and install everything from ground zero. I also think I put too much polyfill in the dash enclosures. I want to take them out and remove some but I'm afraid the difference won't be worth the time so I'll probably wait and just do that when I reinstall everything.

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