I just saw there was a recent post (with vid!) on a DMX906S. I imagine this might be similar... but thought I'd share some of my install that covers some details I had a hard time finding online.
The plan: Replace 430N (w/Navtool) with the 994S.
I'll save y'all the "gut job" details. Very well documented, so you don't need it from me.
Knowing I've got 2 USB's coming out of the unit - one specifically for Carplay, I pull the climate control plate out (just pulls out - disconnect plugs).
I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o00_s00
IF you buy something different, make sure it's a DATA cable - and not just power.
A few notes:
Only the BLACK USB on the Kenwood is for Carplay. The GREY USB is just for streaming/charging, so make sure you mark which is which. I had a silver paint pen - made a dot, and colored the other end.
If you're so inclined, you can simply drill a hole on the side of the center console - around the corner from the plug, and re-install your power outlet.
After a little fiddling, I got the lighter out. You need to work the socket out from clips on the inside. After that, the socket comes out, as does the whole rest of the housing - quite easily. The new socket fit perfectly.
UConnect - I intended to keep.. then realized it was one of the main reasons for upgrading! I configured Maestro without. Downside: Need to run the external mic. Some good suggestions on mic placement could be found, but the one I liked didn't have pix. Tucked back behind the tweeter on the drivers side. Wire comes up thru the side panel. So here's one:
Test calls and voice to the receiver, no problems.
The metal bracket that needs to be removed, on mine, had a box attached to it. Googled the p/n and it appears to be a controller for the heated seats. I pulled it off and stuck it against the glove box sidewall (just to the right) with heavy velcro.
The cross-piece of the opening needs to be cut. But nothing I read gave a hint over how much was "just a little but not too much". Thanks... that helps
So here's what (and why) you need to cut:
Still doesn't help much, but you need to clear that hole to screw it down. T
There is a "line" in the mold you can see in the right/left side. Cut the top to be as thick as that line - about 1/8" or so. I used a multimax. there'll still be a lip you can feel - so you're not cutting the face piece off completely.
I left the stock Nav/GPS antenna in place - mainly because it's 95 degrees out, and I didn't feel like getting into ripping it out. There is an area in the dash that looks literally custom made for the GPS antenna - including the metal base they ship with it! I even drilled a hole to key it into the pin that was sticking up:
It's not flat in the middle, so I stuck a few dabs of RTV silicone on there before placing the plate.
The Crutchfield harness left a "Purple wire" - to use for backup camera trigger. Even with a manual trans, I didn't need one on the 430N (maybe Navtool did it for me?). 2 options: Use the red "traveler" wire that's on the vid cable from the back (you have to connect it to power at the back too), or tap the reverse light up front. I took option 2. Crutchfield provided the tap. The acrobatics to get under there to it connected tho...
WHITE WITH GREY STRIPE. Just to repeat.
Really at this point - its time to stuff it into the dash. It doesn't look like it'll all fit, but it went rather easy. Some learnings/annoyances:
- The radio antenna adapter gives you a full 12" of wire you need to deal with.
- GPS and Mic wires - they're really LONG. Bundled those, and tucked them off to the left side. Plenty of room there.
- OBDII Cable: SHORT! Of all the mega-cabling, I couldn't find a more direct way to run it, so it went straight up, then across the front of the dash. It works fine, but it's tight.
- USB cables - the extensions that come with the plug are long, but plenty of room to tuck them down low behind the climate controls.
Had it done up front. Once I got it fired up and started playing, I thought something was wrong. Disconnected (yes, you have to), came back in... found out that it was OK - needed to do something else.
Reinstalled. Played more. Needs tweaking.
Out again. Reflashed. Back in.
Played with it some more. Thought of another tweak, but I was done at this point. I would recommend programming a "Menu/Home" button. You can get into things that you need to touch the radio to get out of.
Kenwood specific: There's no feature for "Next Preset" - this is what prompted the first pull-out. I thought I missed it. The Scan up/down buttons can be used for preset up/down on the headunit itself. "Auto1" is regular scan for stations, "Auto 2" - Scan buttons, including steering wheel, cycles presets, or "manual" for manual radio tuning. You want Auto2.
Parking lines: My camera has lines on it, so I had to turn off the head unit's "adjustable". Not sure how to get rid of them off the camera, but its OK for now.
There's a bit of a gap between the 2 side pieces. It looks big enough for some sort of filler piece, but no such piece exists.
There's a bunch of leftover pieces, cables, bezels and whatnot that aren't used, and mostly not referenced, so expect that. There's a metal mounting cage with the head unit that's not used either. I was a bit concerned that nothing was "holding it up", but it felt pretty secure once mounted. I was surprised.
So that's it. If anyone has questions I can answer, ask away.
I got all my gear from Crutchfield, except the USB. Paid extra for them to do all the connections - the Maestro harness and main plug connections. Worth the cost IMO.