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Old 11-29-2012, 09:28 PM
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New amp is not turning on

Alright so I have a pioneer headunit, Polk 6.5", and infinity 5.25".
I made a custom box for the "trunk of my TJ" with a 10" JL subwoofer in it. Had it for about a year, until my kicker amp broke. I bought this:

Amazon.com: SSL F2.600 FORCE 600W, 2 Channel MOSFET Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Car Electronics

I hooked it up to my pre existing wires from my old amp. The amp will not turn on. I got my multimeter out and set it to DC and it said there was power going to the 12v wire and remote turn on, also i know my ground is good.

Might this be a problem with my remote wire? Or do you think it's the inline fuse going bad?

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Old 11-29-2012, 09:32 PM   #2
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If the remotes the same one from your kicker amp everything should be good still. Are your preexisting wires from your kicker the same gauge as your new SSL? That would be one reason your not getting enough power.

Checking the fuse wouldn't be a bad idea either.

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Old 11-29-2012, 09:35 PM
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Why would the preexisting wires be not getting enough power? Its the same amount of wattage for both amps. By the way, its an 8 gauge wiring kit if that helps any. Im thinking of just buying a fuse since its not that expensive.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:43 PM   #4
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I thought that maybe the new amp used a lower gauge wire, but 8 is the correct gauge. Mines 4 so that's the only reason I thought of it. I would check the fuse, that's the only thing I could think of. Maybe someone else has a different idea though.

Good luck.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:50 PM
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Thanks, Im just kind of lost. I really appreciate the opinions though. If i figure it out ill post it up here. Still open to others views though
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:27 AM   #6
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If you have a multi-meter, there are only three connections you need for the amp to turn on. Set your meter to DC volts, and place the black probe on the ground terminal of the amp where the ground cable connects. Then place the red probe on the 12volt battery input - your meter should show 12 volts. If it doesn't and you can move the black probe to another metal surface to get 12 volts, than your ground is bad. If it shows 12, than move to the remote wire. Turn your jeep on and keep the black probe on the ground terminal of the amp and the red to the remote terminal. You should see 12 volts with the Jeep on here. Aside from a blown fuse on the amp or a defective amp, that is all you need for the amp to turn on - if everything meters out fine, you may have a defective amp... SSL doesn't strike me as a high quality audio manufacturer.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:33 AM   #7
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x2, along the lines of pyramid and pyle
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:20 AM
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Also, i forgot to say that i tested a Jensen amp three weeks ago and it worked, then i bought a Power Acoustik amp and it wouldnt power on, so i tested the Jensen again and it didnt turn on, so i thought it may just be a bad amp, so i returned to P.A. and got this new SSL amp and its not turning on, so im thinking its somewhere in the wiring. And i know that these brands all suck, but im a college kid and cant spend too much on the jeep just yet haha.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieDelTorchio View Post
Also, i forgot to say that i tested a Jensen amp three weeks ago and it worked, then i bought a Power Acoustik amp and it wouldnt power on, so i tested the Jensen again and it didnt turn on, so i thought it may just be a bad amp, so i returned to P.A. and got this new SSL amp and its not turning on, so im thinking its somewhere in the wiring. And i know that these brands all suck, but im a college kid and cant spend too much on the jeep just yet haha.
If you tried a Jensen got it working, then tried a Power Acoustic that didn't work, but then the Jensen didn't work again, you have an issue with the wiring. Now you said you had power on the 12volt line... how did you take your measurement - where did you have your positive lead and where did you have the negative? It sounds to me like you blew the fuse under the hood while you were swapping amps around, or you pulled the ground loose. You really just need to take your meter out again and take the measurements that I recommended above. See what you got, and report back here with your findings - my money is on a blown fuse under the hood.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:32 PM   #10
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Are you sure your positive and negative terminals are in the right place? Also check the amp itself for fuses. They usually have a few on them somewhere.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:45 PM
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So i figured out my problem. Dont laugh at me, but when i was using the multimeter, i put it on DC 1, not knowing that i needed to be on 30. Of course, it pinned, so i thought i was getting power. Once i figured it out, i was getting about 2 volts so i looked near my battery, and there was some corrosion, but it seemed like not enough for 2 volts. Then i cut the connection off the end of the power wire, and found out that the inside of the wire was extremely corroded, the wire was all bulged out and everything. I cut it back to where it wasnt corroded, put a new connector on, and vwala! My sound system finally sounds good again.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:16 AM   #12
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Glad you got it figured out!

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