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Old 03-04-2019, 08:30 PM
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Route for Battery Cable from Engine to Tailgate

Hello,
I’m trying to route electrical power from the battery in the engine compartment to an area in the back near the passenger side of the side panel near the tailgate.

I think the most convenient and safest route should follow the roll bar from the rear. Does anyone know where I can route the cable from the passenger compartment to the engine bay? Is there a good route under the instrument panel?
Thanks

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Old 03-05-2019, 12:21 PM   #2
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Same idea, just on passenger side. Pop off the panel on the right side, use a screwdriver to open a hole up in that foam, and send the wire through.

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Old 03-05-2019, 02:32 PM
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Thanks much.
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:33 PM   #4
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I would not use the roll bar to route power and ground cables, too many chances for something to dig into it and cause a short.
Pull up the carpet if you still have it and run along the factory cables in the inside corner of the tub (Jeep body)
Most IMPORTANT, fuse each end of a run that long, last thing you want is a slow burn short that starts a fire.
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:51 PM
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Makes sense. Thank you. Shorter cable run too.
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Old 03-06-2019, 09:55 AM   #6
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You know this, I'm going to say it anyway.
Properly size the wire, and run both. Don't rely on the body for your ground.
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:06 AM   #7
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Are you actually running battery cable?
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https://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/y...i-2192385.html
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Old 03-06-2019, 02:01 PM
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I'm running the 4 gauge battery cable from the rear passenger side of the Jeep, under the carpeting, through the passenger side hole, to the power center using a (3/8th?) lug.I need a circuit breaker and/or fuse in the circuit. I do not want to be the cause of a wire.

I'm encasing the batter cable in wiring loom and using UL rated electrical tape to secure the loom to the cable.

I got the idea from this video:

The battery cable will be run behind a Goose Gear panel.

This is being done to support the extra electrical devices that I might need. The fridge will go to this or the ARB electrical outlet I have which is going to run to the passenger side of the center console.
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Old 03-06-2019, 02:04 PM   #9
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reason I ask is you might consider running it thru the frame.
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Old 03-06-2019, 02:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Don't rely on the body for your ground.
What is your reasoning for this?
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Old 03-06-2019, 02:43 PM
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I liked the idea of running it under the carpeting on the passenger side.
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Old 03-06-2019, 03:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky View Post
You know this, I'm going to say it anyway.
Properly size the wire, and run both. Don't rely on the body for your ground.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougRz View Post
What is your reasoning for this?

Just a body bolt no, but a seat belt bolt or one holding the sport bar should work.
Something of good size with meaty threads and make sure its paint free on all sides.
Keep the ground as short as you can, no need for a 15ft ground.
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Old 03-06-2019, 05:24 PM
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Makes sense.
This weekend I'll be taking string and measuring the length that I'll need and then cutting a hole in my Goose Gear panel. Measure twice cut once.
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:05 AM   #14
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What is your reasoning for this?
Body ground is OK for lights, but if you are drawing any real power, I prefer a solid battery connection.
Now with newer vehicles that have a monitor on the neg side, it could cause problems. using the frame might be better.
Your choice, I'll run the wire.
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Old 03-08-2019, 02:31 PM
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I bought the the Genesis dual battery system. I think that will be the spot.
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Old 03-08-2019, 03:43 PM   #16
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Body ground is OK for lights, but if you are drawing any real power, I prefer a solid battery connection.
I'd honestly never heard this thinking. Even my winch is body grounded.
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I'd honestly never heard this thinking. Even my winch is body grounded.

Yeah, I wouldn't follow that advice. Your frame is connected to about 2 tons of steal, the negative terminal of the battery is connected to your frame. So in other words, you can't buy a wire thick enough that will be able to transfer more power to the rear of the vehicle than the frame.


If you run any additional ground wire from the neg terminal of the battery, it should just be an additional or thicker short wire run from the negative terminal to the chassis in parallel to the chassis wire run that is already there.
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:38 PM   #18
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reason I ask is you might consider running it thru the frame.

This is the easiest and best run to the rear in my opinion. I have 2 Awg, 4 Awg and 8awg wire runs from my Positive post, run through my frame rails to the rear. They're powering 4K watts of amplifiers, a Rear winch, and 2 rear mounted air compressors. Be sure to get good wire with thick insulation and be sure to wrap that inside some wire loom. Even if you're doing internal wire runs, use wire loom for safety reasons. That way you're double protected from potential damage. There's good reasons all your stock wiring has wire loom around it.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:30 AM
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For me the most practical is underneath the carpeting. I've already bought the wire loom. The 4 gauge cable has been ordered. This will probably be a spring time project. A couple of flexible solar panels on the roof would also be nice on down the road. Being self sufficient while camping or on the road is the goal.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:43 AM   #20
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Be sure to get a charge controller with those solar panels.
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:18 PM
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Right now I’m leaning towards an Aco Power MPPT controller. I can’t skip ahead. ��
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Old 03-27-2019, 08:49 AM
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Good Morning,
Ok, on post #8, there is the Power In the Back video. I'm trying to make that system work in my Jeep. Does anyone know or can give me a really good guess as to what circuit breakers he used under the hood or what fuse panel he used? I'm trying to piece this together for a project later this spring.

Oh and by the way. I did email the guy in the video, Michael and asked. I didn't get a reply, he must be busy. I know that everyone has a life and that he isn't sitting around waiting for feedback on his videos.
Thanks.
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:34 AM   #23
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you know there is a wiring harness for an accessory outlet in the area you want, right? Some jeeps have the accessory power outlet already installed back there. I added my own. check out this thread. https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/a...t-1364049.html you could tap that harness which is already fused and put your device in that area if you wanted.
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:18 PM
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I have a 16. With the panel pulled off for the Goose Gear stuff I'm putting on. No wire like that. Oh, I didn't get the sub-woofer even though I heard from some people that had the wiring even if they didn't order the part.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:13 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dur66 View Post
I have a 16. With the panel pulled off for the Goose Gear stuff I'm putting on. No wire like that. Oh, I didn't get the sub-woofer even though I heard from some people that had the wiring even if they didn't order the part.
I could not find the wire/connector at first either. But it was tucked up in there, hard to see. I do not know if the 2016's are wired differently, but I would have guessed that they have the same wiring harness.

UPDATE - Looking at the thread that I referenced above, one guy had a 2017 that had the connector available. You should look again.
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:34 PM
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I'll look again.

On another note, I emailed Blue Sea, the electrical supplier in that video. They emailed me back the same day with the part numbers of what they suggested for a fuse panel and a circuit breaker. I think I'll go with their fuse panel as I don't want to run more wires into the engine compartment. I want things to look as OEM as possible. I'm thinking of cutting an access panel into the passenger side Goose Gear cover to hide the fuses. I'm hoping that there is a support in that area where I can mount it.

I just wish cutting grass and getting trees trimmed didn't take priority.
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:11 PM
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This is going to be the circuit breaker that Iíll use in this project

https://www.bluesea.com/products/718...ace_Mount_100A

Any idea if I need both a circuit breaker and fuses?

Since I donít see anywhere to mount these devices behind the panel, I think Iím going to make a compartment behind an access door built into the panel with a Goose Gear lock so it looks built in. Hopefully that makes since.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:23 AM   #28
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Well, I am not sure what advice to give you because I am not sure what specifically you are wanting to install. If you are going to mimic the video in post #8 and install that same Blue Sea panel, then you are way over engineering the system. The one he uses in the video has a circuit breaker built in. It says it is part of the switch that is on the panel and is rated for 15 amps. Your intent to run 4 AWG wire is overkill. 12 AWG would be plenty. But it you have already purchased 4 AWG then you might as well use it if you can get it to fit the connectors. A 100 amp circuit breaker is not going to protect anything that you might plug into that panel.
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Old 04-05-2019, 03:17 PM
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As I mentioned in post #19, this system will eventually be used for supporting solar panels. I'm planning for future improvements, not just for running a refrigerator.

And.....
I'm a great believer in over-engineering.
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Old 04-05-2019, 03:43 PM   #30
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When I ran power into the cab I went through the foam inside the fender into the pop off side dash panel. I used 6ga welding cable which is good for that run and 100A. Got many of the parts from powerwerx.com and used some Anderson Powerpoles for easy disconnection. Make sure to put a fuse near the battery, for that I used the Blue Sea Systems Terminal Fuses.

Wire size calculator:
https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html


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